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Updating 'Nellie'


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Enough film talk back to modelling.

 

post-6220-0-30816200-1480020864_thumb.jpg

 

Lots of Tri-ang here.

 

Last of the modifications before painting.

 

post-6220-0-24477300-1480020924_thumb.jpg

 

I've glued some weights into the tanks, and there is room for more.

These with the metal chassis brings the weight up to 4 ½ ounces or 140g which feels heavy in this small loco.

Should help with pick-up too.

There is now a removable false floor with two crew glued onto it, it is held in with a couple of miniature screws.

I think I've done enough with this loco, especially as it is not really a scale model, I'll just touch up the black paint and call it finished.

Edited by relaxinghobby
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Hi

 

Great thread and very interesting ideas, I recently bought one of the old metal 0-4-0 chassis although with a later can motor very cheaply off Ebay and it runs beautifully, I will be using it for a 1/32 Narrow gauge loco as a 4-4-0T with a Hall class bogie up front.  Footplate has been cut from 1.5mm plasticard, but that is as far as I have got at the mo due to building work we are having done so nearly all stock is packed up bar a few projects I can do at the dining table.

 

Keep up the great work.

 

All the best
Chris

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  • 4 months later...

Restoring a late version with the Number 23550 on the side tank, and a Lord of the Isles plated dome, red plastic colour, with yellow lining.

Needed new side rods and a corroded screw, it is fitted with a later type motor, a cheap and nasty Hong Kong Johnson brand toy motor. It has the old two start worm, giving the loco a lot too much top speed. I will change the motor for a Mitsumi 3 pole, a bit smaller, and can take a small flywheel. The chassis is the same as early ones, with steel side plates. The wheels are OK, plated steel, but the tyres are worn and need a good clean, the whole thing has never been lubricated properly, dry and dirty throughout.

 

Stephen

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Good Lord... I got the Johnson Hong Kong Motor running and with the two start worm and fully lubed with the rusty rods and a temporary crankpin, the Loco can mange speeds that are ludicrous. It struggles to slow run at all, even on a PWM controller.

What where Hornby thinking about fitting such a combination?

 

The gearset will be left as the Matsumi motor is much slower. From the wire size in the Johnson I should think it was rated for 6 volts nominal, and the revs are due to the 12 volts being far too much for it. It is obviously more suited to slot car use than model railways.

 

Stephen

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Good Lord... I got the Johnson Hong Kong Motor running and with the two start worm and fully lubed with the rusty rods and a temporary crankpin, the Loco can mange speeds that are ludicrous

 

WHAT WERE Hornby THINKING ABOUT FITTING SUCH A COMBINATION!

Stephen

Eer ! Children possibly ! Who like to thrash things around the track! Is my guess Edited by Graham456
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Good Lord... I got the Johnson Hong Kong Motor running and with the two start worm and fully lubed with the rusty rods and a temporary crankpin, the Loco can mange speeds that are ludicrous. It struggles to slow run at all, even on a PWM controller.

What where Hornby thinking about fitting such a combination?

Can't you slow it down by putting a resistor in the circuit?

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Unfortunately, no, the voltage and current would render it rather hot! It is not so much the top speed but lack of low speed on this particular version, the X04 motor was infinity better at the running at a slow pace.

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I've been spuddling around with a Nellie body picked up for a couple of quid at Taunton show.

 

So far have fitted some Markits buffers and am in the process of adding a Drummond dome and chimney from SEF to give it an ex-LSWR flavour.

 

I've also filled in the arches in the cab front and re-drilled them so the crew can look out of proper circular windows.

 

Chassis will come from one of those little Spanish 0-6-0Ts purporting to be British Industrial locos and it'll get a fictitious BR number in the 305xx series. 

 

John

Edited by Dunsignalling
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Sounds as if it will emerge as a G5.75, being a fraction smaller than a G6.

 

K

But with outside cylinders and on a shorter wheelbase, so I'm thinking of it as Mr Drummond's conjectural solution for dock shunting duties a bit beyond the capacity of a B4.....

 

J

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  • 11 months later...

If you'd had a Nellie when you were a child you might have understood why this thread has such life and depth. TOY ! How insulting... Nellie is something far greater than that, to some of us she is the the start of every thing ! Now where is that tongue in cheek smilie gone o well big grin one will do

I myself started with a Nellie, despite being a good generation or two younger than most of the people on RMWeb. It was my absolute favourite when I was a child back in the late 90s, and I still own it. It's had a repaint, a repair, a new whistle and a new name and number, but even now it is still the same engine I loved as a child and I still love it dearly.

post-33750-0-11462200-1523774895_thumb.jpg

(Depicted here with a Dapol Pug as it's the only photo I have to had at the moment.)

Edited by RedGemAlchemist
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I managed to fit a Bachmann Junior 0-6-0 chassis under a Nellie last year. Will have to dig it out and photo it.

Main problem was cab steps, as the wheels have a bit of flexibility in them so they move sideways a bit to cope with sharp curves.

The Terrier chassis looks good as well. Maybe there will be more now that Dapol have announced their new one for Rails of Sheffield, and everyone will be selling off their old models.

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  • 6 months later...
  • 1 year later...
On 21/11/2016 at 06:10, Compound2632 said:

At age 7, I asked for the Nellie goods set as my first train set (per the 1971 catalogue with Terence Cuneo's painting of Evening Star on the cover) but she was out of stock at the shop (bicycles and model railways?) on Wyle Cop in Shrewsbury so I had to settle for a set with 47606 - and I've never looked back...

 

I think the shop (of fond memory) was called "Hobby Specialists" of Shrewsbury. The best reason for climbing the hill up Wyle Cop, though didn't Sidoli's have an iccream parlour thereabouts at one time? Perhaps my age is showing...

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I have a Polly sitting on my work bench and a Nellie tucked away, both have had their motors and pickups removed years ago, which is not an issue. As my main layout is to EM gauge and I am also involved in making a small P4 layout. The initial plan was to dismantle the chassis, widen it to EM gauge using Romford wheels, Gibson Coupling rods and a decen motor and gearbox

 

As far as the bodies are concerned I was going to remove the moulded hand rails and valves, replacing them with turnings and castings. Sort out the front windows and replace and repair other damage, like missing steps, holes etc. The rear coal bunker could be altered and etched guard irons on rear windows. Not too certain if the chimney and dome need replacing,

 

The chassis could also be improved, I have some cast sand tanks and I guess  brake gear could be added, even outside cylinders ?

I also am building a Branchlines Caley Pug chassis designed tor the newer 0-4-0 Hornby rendering, its only 2 mm short, I am thinking as I don't have a Cally chassis it would save me buying a body which to my eyes has too many compromises. I am missing one of the buffers so I might have to replace these

 

I have an Agenoria Hawthorn Lesley tank 0-4-0T loco to build which has a much better representation of a bunkerless cab, I have just noticed that CSP models (who now own the Agenoria kits sell the Avonside Class B3 0-6-0T chassis separately, Would this either fit the Polly body, or could the body be extended? 

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166.jpeg.8263d6e7f43ffbcddbd1423406029db9.jpeg

 

This is the Branchlines chassis, being built to p4 gauge with Markit/Romford wheels and Markit P4 axles (yes these axles do exist), buy just as easy to build to 00 & EM gauges. I am building up the sand boxes once fitted I will paint it. It comes with etched cab steps and brake gear. 

 

Link to the CSP/Angeoria Avonside B3 0-6-0 chassis, I have included a link to the full kit as the chassis link only has a photo of the loco in question

Chassis  http://cspmodels.com/abante/index.php?rt=product/product&manufacturer_id=21&product_id=229

Full kit http://cspmodels.com/abante/index.php?rt=product/product&manufacturer_id=21&product_id=112

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167.jpeg.185b6086632232e7da7497fd6d71c1c3.jpeg

 

A quick update, I had a stab at the sand boxes last night and this morning cut off the remaining steps off Polly's body. Added a couple of bits of plasticard to support the chassis. The chassis is a reasonable fit other than the frames are 4mm too short (easy fix). Last night I was disappointed with the sand boxes, they are coming off as they look awful and get in the way of the steps. Thinner sand boxes will be made up once the chassis fits better.

 

I am thinking of getting the Angoria 0-6-0 chassis for the other body I have. Just would like to know the length of the B3 chassis

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168.jpeg.ca2b3e31f619b6a64f93b0b7127e5688.jpeg

 

The chassis is painted and the body being relieved of unwanted mouldings and windows and dents being filled, Piston and connecting rods not fitted properly yet, and the body is resting on the chassis

 

169.jpeg.f36c71fb95fb3b64f4229603cfe28d3f.jpeg

 

White Squadron filler being used for repairs, lining,numbers etc removed. Will try and have a proper cab free of motors, waiting for a High Level gearbox to arrive in the post before I know how much if at all the motor/gearbox will intrude into the cab if at all.

 

Quite pleased so far and saved me buying a Hornby Cally tank

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There are two classic “Nelliebashes”, using either a Terrier chassis or an Electotren 0-6-0. An outside cylinder, outside motion 0-4-0 looks good but tends to highlight that it is, in fact, rather a large loco for an 0-4-0 (as the photo above shows, significantly larger than a L&Y Pug). 

 

The paintings are interesting, but by showing detail over which the original model draws a veil, they highlight the basic problem, which is that the motion and firebox don’t fit into the available space between the axles. 

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Thanks for the comments, perhaps buying the 0-6-0 B3 chassis will look better, certainly will not break the bank.

 

One other option would be to reduce the length of the front chassis and move the chassis forward by 5 mm, this actually looks a lot better and something I might consider as it moves the motor which is an added benefit, initial thoughts were to make it a 0-4-2T, but I dont think its needed. a further option would be to cut off the rear bunker and shorten the rear of the chassis by the same amount as the front

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1 hour ago, rockershovel said:

rather a large loco for an 0-4-0 (as the photo above shows, significantly larger than a L&Y Pug). 


Although not quite as big as Triang’s, the real ones came in two varieties, and both were actually quite chunky.

 

Here is the bigger version, of which only two were built. 30% heavier than an L&Y Pug. An unusually long WB for an 0-4-0T, making the point that it was a passenger engine, so needed not to ‘hunt’ too much, which short WB ones do terribly.

 

Triang snuck length into it all over but most noticeably in the bunker.

 

 

 

 

 

 

D893E8D0-5F09-4F4E-8F34-3A24131BD34A.jpeg

Edited by Nearholmer
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