Shroomy Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 Just like to ask those that have fitted third rail to your layout did you make up a jig to drill the pot holes ? So they stayed the same ? Thanks Dave Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 No need.............. just lie a 12" ruler along track and drill at the approprate measurment, on curves just count the sleepers as a guide Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shroomy Posted October 17, 2016 Author Share Posted October 17, 2016 (edited) Thank you for your reply Steve but it was the distance from the rail to where the pot sits that I meant Edited October 17, 2016 by Shroomy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted October 17, 2016 Share Posted October 17, 2016 C & L make a jig. http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=346_347_360&product_id=3467 Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shroomy Posted October 17, 2016 Author Share Posted October 17, 2016 C & L make a jig. http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=346_347_360&product_id=3467 Jason Thank you Jason could be useful Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 (edited) For the outside third rail, i centre the drill approximately 2mm in from the ends of the sleepers - I don't bother with a jig for this. For my fourth rail (LT lines), I made my own jig from some scrap brass, so I could get the rail exactly in the centre, and not zigzagging along. For some reason, the outside rail alignment is more forgiving.Edit: I should add that I use Peco code 100 track, so if using other track with more scale length sleepers, the measurement should be adjusted slightly to match. Edited October 18, 2016 by SRman Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted October 18, 2016 Share Posted October 18, 2016 I work in 00 but haven't laid Third Rail for a good few years. However, when I did I laid the Rail a little closer to the running rail than prototype dimensions show. This is because 00 is narrower than prototype so I thought using a prototype distance would look too big. I cant remember the measurements now but I think I worked on percentages. Dave. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shroomy Posted October 23, 2016 Author Share Posted October 23, 2016 Well the peco third rail and the pots have turned up just need a child's pair of hands and lots of patience I think a long task Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted October 23, 2016 Share Posted October 23, 2016 Well the peco third rail and the pots have turned up just need a child's pair of hands and lots of patience I think a long task You will also need a sound backbone, because when you have finished, it won't be sound any more! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Jack Benson Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 Hi, Five years later and a couple of questions about adding a third rail. In the absence of a C&L jig (the above link doesn’t work), may I ask what are the essential dimensions when adding the third to Peco Code 75? Is it feasible to solder onto tiny brass woodscrews and simply add butchered Peco insulators ir is that too belt n’braces? Finally, a barely-related question, are colour light signals available for an early ‘50s SR layout? StaySafe Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philou Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 @Jack Benson I haven't scrolled back up to see what was in the other replies, but I recall that the Peco third (and fourth) rail on sale is Code 60. Insofar as the insulators are concerned, I had considered using small, round-headed, slotted (not Philips' head) brass screws and then painting the rounded part white to represent the porcelain. IIRC these would be placed every fourth sleeper. There are no doubt standards regarding height of the conductor rail above the adjoining rail and its distance from the rail - but I haven't have any. Cheers, Philip Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted December 21, 2021 Share Posted December 21, 2021 There's quite a bit of info on the SREMG site that may be of use. https://sremg.org.uk/model/howtotip-2.html#p3rdrail I think this is the new link to C&L. https://www.clfinescale.co.uk/knowledge-centre Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted December 23, 2021 Share Posted December 23, 2021 Third rail again! Mmmmm. If you are using Code 75 track you will find the Peco chair rails the 3rd rail too high for RTR Models. Prototype sleeper spacing was every 4th sleeper but is mostly every 5th now. But, remember, Peco sleeper spacing is too close other than the new Bullhead. The last pic is what I used years ago as chairs. Unfortunately I can only find No 2 on eBay now. I made a gauge to drill the sleepers. Dave. 2 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted December 25, 2021 Share Posted December 25, 2021 Try T C Fixings for screws. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SamThomas Posted December 25, 2021 Share Posted December 25, 2021 Just thought I'd point out to those unaware that many of the so called "Brass" screws from the DIY sheds & similar places are brassed i.e steel scerws with brass plating. For solid brass you need to check. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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