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6REP, 5WES, 319/1 & 313/0 conversions and builds in NSE


pdanny
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12 hours ago, Wagpnmaster said:

The 5WES is looking great, coming on nicely. Enjoying this thread.

 

I am also trying to build one and have a few queries. The lower body is a light grey colour as can be seen on your models. What colour did you use for this?  The replacement starting resistors, did you build these or buy them? Finally, numbers. I see on some photos it is just the car number whereas on others, it is preceeded with the set number. Do all cars have the set number or just the driving cars? Did they carry the NSE logo and text at all?

 

 

Ok, a few points there. So always do your research is the best answer. Gather loads of photos: Google, Flickr, Facebook... you can get pretty much all your answers there. There are some great websites that have really detailed information and pics that will help you ensure you get things like the numbering locations right. If I had known in the 80s/90s how much I would need them, I'd have spent a fortune on film and photos developed at Boots, lol.

The grey is call NSE Silver Grey, I prefer Precision Paints but I also have Railmatch too. 

The starting resistors were left overs from various Mk1 unit builds I've done in the past. You can buy Hornby VEP MBS underframes on Ebay for around £5. I've bought a couple in the past and stripped off various components from them. The starting resistors are pretty damn good.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Started on the next project. 4CIG conversion from a Hornby VEP. Using MJT cabs, sides and additional parts, it's not as challenging this way as it would be working from donor Mk1s. Needless to say, the construction side has been swift with much of the main build complete. All 4 coaches have been built with smaller parts being added now such as step boards, roof vents and water tanks. Just getting it ready for priming now...

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Priming and painting done in last 2 weeks and now entering the detailing phase which is the bit I enjoy the most. Adding Mk1 strengthening strips after painting as these would be impossible to mask over if done before priming. Once painted it's starting to look pretty real. Still some minor tweaks to correct but I'm really pleased with the paintjob.

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#4CIG Conversion: DTC1 and TS detailing complete. Can't wait to weather it now. Interior still to do but really pleased with the exterior. Route 92 London Waterloo - Bournemouth semi fast. Just the other DTC2 left to do now. #VariousMultipleUnits

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  • 3 weeks later...

You may recall I also touched base on my next project, building a refurbised 4BEP from an existing Bachmann 4CEP. 

Using MJT brass sides and SPM undercarriage components,  I am currently in the process of building this unit. MJT only provide the 4CEP sides so I had to commission the buffet car sides through the amazing team at PPDLtd.

Progress do far is that the model has been built, primed and I'm currently working through the paint job.

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Excellent work there.

 

Can I ask for more details on how you do your door hinges.
When I build brass coaches I drill .5 holes and solder in hinges from Comet detailing etches.

so I am intrigued at you adding them after painting.

 

Thanks.

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On 20/04/2020 at 11:59, Taz said:

Excellent work there.

 

Can I ask for more details on how you do your door hinges.
When I build brass coaches I drill .5 holes and solder in hinges from Comet detailing etches.

so I am intrigued at you adding them after painting.

 

Thanks.

#4CIG Conversion: I was asked to share how I fitted the door handles, hinges and handrails so when detailing the Trailer Standard I took these photos:

IMG_20200329_093314_799.jpg.b111966c3055ab6ac2127ec04960be9e.jpg1. I always add these to the model once its fully painted and varnished as the detail is so small and at this point it won't get in the way or damaged during the paint job. (Masking can pull the hinges off)

IMG_20200329_093314_770.jpg.a9537efa15e7e62946a21c8e3dafe285.jpg2. You will need a pack of 2930 MJT BR Door Handles which co tain all the hinges, handles and handrails needed for Mk1 units

IMG_20200329_093314_771.jpg.aad47bf2fb5c9738b88507ca246efd4e.jpg3. Applying the hinges is fairly straightforward. Cut out of the pack however many you need with a sharp knife. Using a cocktail stick dab tiny drops of super glue wherever you want them to go (refer to photos to ensure you get this right. Remember they only go on doors that open outwards).

IMG_20200329_093314_774.jpg.40d964967451ca773a9b74b207c6ab94.jpg4. Use a cocktail stick with a moist end to pick and place the hinge in place. The actual hinge line sits over the gap etched between the door and the carriage side so be sure to get all 3 fitted in a straight line.

IMG_20200329_093314_781.jpg.4c8f3506da3062abfae0589b8be04aa5.jpg5. To add the handles and handrails (I do this after glazing as drilling out the holes often goes through any glazing fitted so its easier this way than glazing afterwards) ensure the predrilled holes are clear of paint following the paintjob by redrilling them out with a 0.5mm hand drill.

IMG_20200329_093314_773.jpg.1dfd05b2ae621de82a80cf477bcd7947.jpg6. Cut the door handles and relevant sized handrails from the pack with a sharp knife. When cutting, cut them right up to the metal sheet so you have at least 1mm extra. When cutting, you will feel a groove where to place you knife, it's literally right at the end by the edge of the sheet to the handrail/handle

IMG_20200329_093314_796.jpg.b2c4404ed50896e41ca4d9f316827305.jpg7. Using fine tweezers or point ending pliers, pick up the handle, dab the ends with a tiny drop of super glue and drop into the predrilled hole. Do the same for the handrail, with the etched groove approx 0.3mm clear of the drill hole. When fitting the door handle, ensure the etched line on it is facing the door handle and door itself

IMG_20200329_093314_797.jpg.ed00906326eeb28db07febc88f624b6d.jpg8. After 3-5mins once the glue has dried, bend the door handrail 90° away from the door/door handle so its parallel with the coach side. Its soft enough to do with your fingers or a cocktail stick.

IMG_20200401_193809_575.jpg.52bcbd005c538e74237cc139251b21c4.jpg9. These are now ready for painting, job done #VariousMultipleUnits

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On 21/04/2020 at 07:01, Rich Papper said:

Very impressive build so far. How are you intending to do the silver window frames? I've used silver pen before but never on something this big.

Thanks

Rich

I've used a paint pen before when I was building my Class 442 as it's easier with the Mk3 windows to get a consistent thickness on the window frame edge, however, on the MJT windows I found using a fine paint brush much better. I hand painted them all. It took a while and involved having to go back and repair some bleeds but the end result was much cleaner than with a pen.

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  • 2 months later...

Lockdown has had me working on a rebuild of an old DCKit that was abandoned over 20 years ago and a commission that surprisingly ive enjoyed so much I want to keep it.

The 4EPB DCKit was started in the late 90s but I was ill equipped and lacking in my skill set to complete it well enough. Its been sat in a box all this time just waiting for me to finish it off but upon reflection,  needed a lot of work to bring it inline with the Bachmann 2EPB and the rest of the kits and RTR units. ciiy1r.jpg.bf90db046629972b0840feadda03a48c.jpg20200603_001120.jpg.3d7bdc4f0dbcfe8907e41f0778c79d60.jpg20200606_181948.jpg.9e9152e4bddbea94eeb915d9ca3469d6.jpg20200606_182057.jpg.7cb0c4d3caca9385e0eaaca837d9b7c0.jpg

 

With the Internet,  various detailing parts and better tools, equipment and building/painting skills now, im really thrilled to havebbeen able to make a much better job of it and totally love the end result.

Additionally,  having been successful with my 4BEP,  it was inevitable that I would be approached on building a 4CEP and I'm absolutely love the build of it. With the paint job done and the mofel now going into the glazing and detailing stages, handing it over is goingnto be a real challenge. 

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Wow these are fantastic. I've just finished reading through the thread and am inspired to get hold of another VEP (Mine is an original one so I might keep it as it is and buy another to modify) I have some MJT ends and sides for a TC but I might well get some CIG sides and build something. Just need a new modelling desk now. Have you considered, using one of your gangways as a master and making a silicone mould or something, then you could turn out gangway units with less work involved.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 14/07/2020 at 15:13, The Evil Bus Driver said:

Wow these are fantastic. I've just finished reading through the thread and am inspired to get hold of another VEP (Mine is an original one so I might keep it as it is and buy another to modify) I have some MJT ends and sides for a TC but I might well get some CIG sides and build something. Just need a new modelling desk now. Have you considered, using one of your gangways as a master and making a silicone mould or something, then you could turn out gangway units with less work involved.

 

A friend and I did some resin castings but they never looked as good. 

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2 minutes ago, pdanny said:

 

A friend and I did some resin castings but they never looked as good. 

Ah that's a shame. When you did yours I saw you cut them at the bottom of the gangway door to make a buffer plate,  did you use filler to build up the gap at the bottom? I have a set of these white metal ones and I was wondering how to do it. Also are the VEP cab ends moulded in or are they a separately applied piece?

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The CEP was completed and sent on to its owner. It was mad bit until I packed it up, it never crossed my mind it was a commission and I would have to hand it over. Thrilled with how it turned out in the end despite having to find a replacement roof and so.e paint rippage. The guy who commissioned it was over the moon so it all ended well

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14 minutes ago, The Evil Bus Driver said:

Ah that's a shame. When you did yours I saw you cut them at the bottom of the gangway door to make a buffer plate,  did you use filler to build up the gap at the bottom? I have a set of these white metal ones and I was wondering how to do it. Also are the VEP cab ends moulded in or are they a separately applied piece?

the VEP vestibule door is cut out of the Hornby cab fascia and then the vestibule door is built around it. The door is 2mm in from the back so like the real thing sits slightly proud of the cab front. The whole vestibule door is then glued to the MJT cab front.

IMG_20200220_073535_029.jpg.0bb9c5406871a60b43eaa0379a6eb199.jpg

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12 hours ago, pdanny said:

the VEP vestibule door is cut out of the Hornby cab fascia and then the vestibule door is built around it. The door is 2mm in from the back so like the real thing sits slightly proud of the cab front. The whole vestibule door is then glued to the MJT cab front.

IMG_20200220_073535_029.jpg.0bb9c5406871a60b43eaa0379a6eb199.jpg

Looks amazing. Much better than the Hornby front and it' looks even better painted up. I just can't believe Hornby made such a fundamental mis-step with it given that some parts were really good and some others were either the wrong size or the wrong way round. Not mentioning the axles either.

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On 19/08/2020 at 21:47, dasatcopthorne said:

Even the cast Driver's Front window isn't quite correct though.

 

 

Maybe, but at last (as a "below average" muddler) I can start to see why people have been upset about the face of the model.

 

ĸen

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