Jump to content
 

'New Colletts from Old'


Recommended Posts

There is not of difference in the overall size of the main body a scale 57' x 8' 6" for Dia L18 or L20 doors roughly in the right place I'm waiting to get to Didcot to measure their one

the roof has a better arch to it then other old coaches it requires the removal of some detail and replaced with something that looks the part, like I said earlier if it comes up close I'll

keep it if not it goes in the bin save the bogies 7' wb single bolsters and also the chassis as that has brushed up OK or it could even end up as a composite brake your world is your

oyster when you chop cheap models up.

 

 

Any idea's for that one Lofty . :jester:

Beyond my skill set !

Link to post
Share on other sites

Been a long time away from the work bench what with a visit to England where I managed to catch the Flu and do my back in !

It wasn't all bad news, picked up all the goodies I had amassed!

Six wheel bogies from BSL were amongst the haul so i got those soldered up which resulted in this.....

The light in my workshop showed up a lot of faults in the body joins so don't look too close :-/

Step boards need sanding as I think they protrude out too far.

post-16907-0-76972300-1547216247_thumb.jpg

Edited by lofty1966
  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

At the request of Khris (Kandc-au) here is a couple of pix showing my simple droplight spray mask.

The back of the mask is grooved to clear the hinges and also scalloped to clear the commode handles and door handles.

Advisable to wear a latex glove to protect your skin.

Other tip is don't go to heavy with the airbrush as it's too easy to get over spray (or should that be underspray??)under the mask.

As demonstrated if you look too closely at the demo coach <ahem>

post-16907-0-08452100-1547216766_thumb.jpg

post-16907-0-83116000-1547216809_thumb.jpg

post-16907-0-06950700-1547216861_thumb.jpg

Edited by lofty1966
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Step boards need sanding as I think they protrude out too far.

Should be a scale 9' overall. Centenary stock was 9'-3" over end door footboards & 9'-0" over any intermediate 'boards.

 

Pete S.

Link to post
Share on other sites

At the request of Khris (Kandc-au) here is a couple of pix showing my simple droplight spray mask.

The back of the mask is grooved to clear the hinges and also scalloped to clear the commode handles and door handles.

Advisable to wear a latex glove to protect your skin.

Other tip is don't go to heavy with the airbrush as it's too easy to get over spray (or should that be underspray??)under the mask.

As demonstrated if you look too closely at the demo coach <ahem>

Thanks for that Lofty.

All starting to make sense to me now :)

 

Khris

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • RMweb Gold
On ‎07‎/‎01‎/‎2019 at 12:30, Prometheus said:

81C - if you do follow that well-trodden path, I for one would be very interested to see your progress. I have been wondering about the GWR potential that the Hornby TPO might have for a while, but found it difficult to reconcile its LMS origins ( in other words, a simple repaint and detailing wouldn’t do ).

 

Tony

Up-date I nearly gave up on this having spent money on it , I can always use the chassis under another project and throw the body in the bin, work so far.

The side windows have been filled and a blanking plate put in the hole left by the catch net this area need some extra paneling to be done and the paint work touched, the ends have been cleared of all detail filed flat and are ready to take all the new detail parts, the underframe which has a big hole in the bottom will now run under a restaurant car the hole complete with a blanking piece will hidden by the gas tanks the new chassis will be sprayed once the new buffers & dynamo are fitted, the roof is now devoid of detail and several spray coats of undercoat to tidy up some of the knife damage I've inflicted on it . 

It's looking a mess at the moment once tidied up I'll post a photo.

                                                                                                                     A Butcher. :biggrin_mini2:

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
On 16/02/2019 at 22:33, 81C said:

Up-date I nearly gave up on this having spent money on it , I can always use the chassis under another project and throw the body in the bin, work so far.

The side windows have been filled and a blanking plate put in the hole left by the catch net this area need some extra paneling to be done and the paint work touched, the ends have been cleared of all detail filed flat and are ready to take all the new detail parts, the underframe which has a big hole in the bottom will now run under a restaurant car the hole complete with a blanking piece will hidden by the gas tanks the new chassis will be sprayed once the new buffers & dynamo are fitted, the roof is now devoid of detail and several spray coats of undercoat to tidy up some of the knife damage I've inflicted on it . 

It's looking a mess at the moment once tidied up I'll post a photo.

                                                                                                                     A Butcher. :biggrin_mini2:

A Butcher (81C)

Is there an update or pics on progress?
Also while I am at it, the Steadtler Fineliners you mentioned on Mikkel's thread, have you used them for lining yourself and if so how did they go? They sound OK so long as they work and don't rub off, but I would need to know they worked first given the Postage charge!

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I've used a Neon Orange one on a Airfix B set, the pair got a new coat of Halfords Rover Russett Brown the lining is very fine I've thickened it up just by tilling the pen on a

steel rule I'm Pleased with the results, they are a dry marker and will need a coat of spray varnish to protect them.

The Mail coach is still being worked on the row of top lights have proved problematic trying to get the surface flat without damaging the graphics I will try once more

after that the graphics will take a hit and be removed I'll try again and I have several sets on the graphics to play with. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
1 minute ago, 81C said:

I've used a Neon Orange one on a Airfix B set, the pair got a new coat of Halfords Rover Russett Brown the lining is very fine I've thickened it up just by tilling the pen on a

steel rule I'm Pleased with the results, they are a dry marker and will need a coat of spray varnish to protect them.

The Mail coach is still being worked on the row of top lights have proved problematic trying to get the surface flat without damaging the graphics I will try once more

after that the graphics will take a hit and be removed I'll try again and I have several sets on the graphics to play with. 

How did you set about filling the windows?

 

When I modernised a Bachmann mk1 tpo sorting van to its 1990s condition, I filed the window holes to square off the corners and then cut a blank for each window which was a tight fit.  this was pushed into place (and glued from behind) and resulted in a need for minimal filler to be added (I was able to retain the original Bachmann printing for the Royal Mail logos).  When I eventually come to build my 1947 TPO it will be from etched kits (one day I will start building them), but it will certainly be interesting to see what can be done with the Hornby LMS model.

 

I should have a Neon Orange pen arriving imminently, look forward to seeing how it comes out on my next wartime brown coaches.  Then I will give the black and golden ochre a try for chocolate and cream coach lining...  

Link to post
Share on other sites

49 minutes ago, 81C said:

I've used a Neon Orange one on a Airfix B set, the pair got a new coat of Halfords Rover Russett Brown the lining is very fine I've thickened it up just by tilling the pen on a

steel rule I'm Pleased with the results, they are a dry marker and will need a coat of spray varnish to protect them.

The Mail coach is still being worked on the row of top lights have proved problematic trying to get the surface flat without damaging the graphics I will try once more .

 

49 minutes ago, 81C said:

after that the graphics will take a hit and be removed I'll try again and I have several sets on the graphics to play with. 

Thank you.
I haven't received your reply yet exc ept for Rich's response to you where I have seen your  response....I have no doubts it will get here :)
I'll have to order one when I get back from our trip.
Thanks for that,
Appreciated.
Khris

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 06/01/2019 at 17:53, Coach bogie said:

Hammond produced them back in the 1980's. Here are four of them but there were several other diagrams produced. Some of these diagrams were later covered by 247 in the Errol days.

post-9992-0-75341100-1546797112_thumb.jpg

 

Hammond also produced most of the clerestory TPO diagrams.

post-9992-0-29131100-1546797198_thumb.jpg

 

Mike Wiltshire

If only the Hammond coach sides were still available.  Sigh....

 

Duncan

  • Like 1
  • Agree 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Hi Rich

I've used just about every filler on the market I've finally ended up with the Deluxe Putty which seems to be about the best one I've tried,

I do like your Idea filing the holes square it's a bit late for that my main problem is getting the filler finished and painted the Humbrol I've used for

undercoat has reacted with the Precisions paint so every thing has to be cleaned up my patients at the moment is not at it's best so I keep putting this

coach to one side when it's not going well I'm still in two minds weather to bin it it's taken up far too much time. 

 

 

1 hour ago, kandc_au said:

 


I haven't received your reply yet exc ept for Rich's response to you where I have seen your  response....I have no doubts it will get here  



 

Sorry Khris what do you want me to respond to that line doesn't tell me anything.

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold
17 minutes ago, 81C said:

Hi Rich

I've used just about every filler on the market I've finally ended up with the Deluxe Putty which seems to be about the best one I've tried,

I do like your Idea filing the holes square it's a bit late for that my main problem is getting the filler finished and painted the Humbrol I've used for

undercoat has reacted with the Precisions paint so every thing has to be cleaned up my patients at the moment is not at it's best so I keep putting this

coach to one side when it's not going well I'm still in two minds weather to bin it it's taken up far too much time. 

 

I know the feeling, I have spent far too long trying to fill coach windows in the past, including the exact same issue you describe with the primer reacting with the filler.  Now I exclusively use Squadron White Putty, although I have found the latest tube I have bought was no where near as good as the last (which would have been purchased about 5 years ago).

 

I have now used this technique on two "modern" coaches (if you can call the 1990s modern), with successful results in both cases.  Next in line will be using the same technique to fix the extra window on my B Sets

  • Informative/Useful 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, 81C said:

Hi Rich

I've used just about every filler on the market I've finally ended up with the Deluxe Putty which seems to be about the best one I've tried,

I do like your Idea filing the holes square it's a bit late for that my main problem is getting the filler finished and painted the Humbrol I've used for

undercoat has reacted with the Precisions paint so every thing has to be cleaned up my patients at the moment is not at it's best so I keep putting this

coach to one side when it's not going well I'm still in two minds weather to bin it it's taken up far too much time. 

 

 

Sorry Khris what do you want me to respond to that line doesn't tell me anything.

 

Pm Sent

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

On 11/01/2019 at 14:32, lofty1966 said:

At the request of Khris (Kandc-au) here is a couple of pix showing my simple droplight spray mask.

The back of the mask is grooved to clear the hinges and also scalloped to clear the commode handles and door handles.

Advisable to wear a latex glove to protect your skin.

Other tip is don't go to heavy with the airbrush as it's too easy to get over spray (or should that be underspray??)under the mask.

As demonstrated if you look too closely at the demo coach <ahem>

post-16907-0-08452100-1547216766_thumb.jpg

post-16907-0-83116000-1547216809_thumb.jpg

post-16907-0-06950700-1547216861_thumb.jpg

I love your coaches the colour is superb. May I ask you what paints you use for the chocolate in cream, just looking at the coaches and previous collett projects you have done, the colour is spot on. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, GWR5764 said:

I love your coaches the colour is superb. May I ask you what paints you use for the chocolate in cream, just looking at the coaches and previous collett projects you have done, the colour is spot on. 

Thank you for the compliments.

The colours are originally from Railmatc, although I then painted a couple of sample squares and got a local paint supplier to colour match and mix up a litre of both in Acrylic.

 

  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

18 hours ago, lofty1966 said:

Thank you for the compliments.

The colours are originally from Railmatc, although I then painted a couple of sample squares and got a local paint supplier to colour match and mix up a litre of both in Acrylic.

 

Are they airbrushed?

 

I've just had a go at detailing a Hornby 4 wheeler in green. It's a bit freelance but it looks good with the added hand rails, roof vents detailing etc. Also painted her into GWR livery using some humbrol and vallejo paints, I'll have to try your Railmatch colours. Ive attached a picture along with a picture of my £3 triang clerestory, repainted. I know they're not Colletts but still the same sort of process. The other picture shows the 4 wheeler with the hand made details added prior to painting. 

IMG-20190323-WA0004.jpeg

 

IMG_20190317_143137.jpg

IMG_20190323_131520.jpg

Edited by GWR5764
Spelling mistake
  • Like 2
  • Agree 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold
On ‎06‎/‎01‎/‎2019 at 10:42, 81C said:

Thanks for all your comments I think this will be a near enough and not prefect model the overall size is OK for a L18 or L20 diagram,

 

The roof required everything to be removed and fitted out.

Complete replacement of the ends with offset corridor connectors.

New buffers with the cut outs.

Complete refit of the underframes.

Top lights require a bit of filler.

Net and frame to be made/sourced, thanks for that snippet St E' 

 

I'll let you know the progress as I go through the year it was cheap enough to bin if it doesn't work out .

 

Bob

This is going on the back burner for a while I'm still having problems getting the side smooth.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Over a year's delay whilst I built some loco kits but finally got back to the H33 upgrade (see p23). 

 

Underframe, bogies and ends from a new Hornby Collett. Gas tanks and 3rd battery box added. Roof detailed filed off, vent opened out. Rain gutters added. 4th kitchen window part-filled. Grab rails sanded off. Moulded door edges sanded off and scribed instead. Light spray with primer has revealed quite a bit more sanding is needed.

 

As far as the interior goes, I will be adding table lamps in 1st class and also curtains tyo 1st & 3rd as these seem to have been added to coaches being refurbished from about 1934 onwards, according to the pictures in Russell Appendix 2 of the various diagrams, and my period is late 1930s. (Any advice on that welcomed).

 

IMG_4653.JPG.705d0555d2ac057c80eb79d716a4b5f4.JPGIMG_4654.JPG.afe87df87b0c29c8d1affbaa9a1bff1e.JPG

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

The challenge with the late 1930's period for a H33 is all four received refurbishment and new windows under the Government Loan Scheme between 1937 and 1940 with the main windows being replaced with the mark 1 type.

 

The image below is of the only surviving H33 which had the ends converted to inspection saloon, last known location was the East Lancs Railway at Bury.

 

Mike Wiltshire

 

2055839431_H33planrebuild.jpg.a40dab6b13ee46e64bd8c25e48b15b95.jpg

806454166_H339580.jpg.50a519ce407ac87aa3c11e0e19cad2aa.jpg

  • Like 3
  • Informative/Useful 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Premium
38 minutes ago, Coach bogie said:

The challenge with the late 1930's period for a H33 is all four received refurbishment and new windows under the Government Loan Scheme between 1937 and 1940 with the main windows being replaced with the mark 1 type.

 

The image below is of the only surviving H33 which had the ends converted to inspection saloon, last known location was the East Lancs Railway at Bury.

 

Mike Wiltshire

 

2055839431_H33planrebuild.jpg.a40dab6b13ee46e64bd8c25e48b15b95.jpg

806454166_H339580.jpg.50a519ce407ac87aa3c11e0e19cad2aa.jpg

Comet do the sides for the refurbished version.

  • Informative/Useful 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 16/04/2019 at 18:59, scratcher said:

As far as the interior goes, I will be adding table lamps in 1st class and also curtains to 1st & 3rd as these seem to have been added to coaches being refurbished from about 1934 onwards, according to the pictures in Russell Appendix 2 of the various diagrams, and my period is late 1930s. (Any advice on that welcomed).

 

A question on curtains prior to the Mk 1 style window replacements. Would the curtain rail have been between the main window and the pair of openers, or above the openers?  If it was above then it would interfere with the opening .... ?

 

I also noted when at GWS Didcot last weekend that when viewing coach curtains from the outside, the most visible part is the backing material, usually I would guess in some kind of cream/fawn colour, and not the main material.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...