Baby Deltic Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 Be careful though - there's a fair bit of evidence that Heljan's numbering doesnt necessarily respond to the usual methods and is sturdier than their base livery paints. It might be worth trying a small piece of very fine wet and dry, folded so that just the numbers are targeted Cocktail sticks and scalpel blades are also good for delicate removal of numbers without the paint, if you have a steady hand. Meths on a cotton bud sometimes helps. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor H Posted March 19, 2010 Share Posted March 19, 2010 I found using the corner of some very fine wet'n dry was more than ample, I tried T cut on a cocktail stick to try and remove numbers on my cl14 to no avail so went for the wet'n dry. As mentioned by Pennine, be careful with T cut as it has the habit to remove the base colour on the latest HJ stuff. Trevor. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Fen End Pit Posted March 20, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 20, 2010 Received mine from Kernow Models this morning. I like the look of it a lot. Now to get some P4 wheels into it! David Barham Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
petee19 Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 Received mine from Kernow Models this morning. I like the look of it a lot. Now to get some P4 wheels into it! David Barham Collected mine today and have run it for well over an hour in both directions and have to say how disappointed I am with it.Everything was fine to start with but gradually it became sluggish, and jerky, there is also quite a high pitched squeak when running long nose first,neither will it run at very slow speed as the Clayton and Heljans latest 33 do. All these symptons are similar to those of the first Clayton so its back to the supplier next week. Pete. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 The motor may be small, but it can draw a current. Static readings circa 10 to 14 ohm depending on armature position, and will draw up to 0.8 amp starting, so definitely one for a 1A output decoder as a minimum. Put a Lenz silver in it and now have it nicely speed matched to the other low power diesels for MU purposes, runs as sweetly as the Bach 20 and 24, Heljan 26 and Hornby 30. Now to build a bogie sulphate or three for the dustbins service Ashburton Grove to Blackbridge pits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
antrobuscp Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 Tried to get the body off mine yesterday. Saw 34c's post which appears at odds with Heljan's notes. Heljan say to take the cab off first, but it doesn't seem to want to budge at all - are there any release points? 34c implies the body came off first, but the base of the cab seems quite wide for spreading the body sides out to get the thing off in one piece. Can someone go into a little more detail, please - thanks. Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southernman46 Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 Born 1962 - what did they sound like ?? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 Tried to get the body off mine yesterday. Saw 34c's post which appears at odds with Heljan's notes. Heljan say to take the cab off first, but it doesn't seem to want to budge at all - are there any release points? 34c implies the body came off first, but the base of the cab seems quite wide for spreading the body sides out to get the thing off in one piece. Can someone go into a little more detail, please - thanks. Well that was interesting. What a good job I didn't read the instructions before taking the body off. Ignore steps/photos 1 and 4 in Heljan's instructions would be my advice. The body came off, and has subsequently gone back on with the cab and its' interior as part of the bodyshell. I think based on the experience both Paul (PMP) and I have had, finding that a small quantity of cement has been used to fix the cab and interior to the rest of the bodyshell, that removing the cab by working externally will prove difficult without doing some visible damage. Whereas working from inside, the small force needed to break the cement bonds can be applied in normally concealed locations. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pinzaboy Posted March 21, 2010 Share Posted March 21, 2010 I agree with Petee19, I bought two and both have now been well run in and are incredibly jerky. All wheels and track cleaned again but to no avail. Very disappointed. I'm using Bachmann decoders but that shouldn't be an issue. Tim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allegheny1600 Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 I agree with Petee19, I bought two and both have now been well run in and are incredibly jerky. All wheels and track cleaned again but to no avail. Very disappointed. I'm using Bachmann decoders but that shouldn't be an issue. Tim Hi Tim, See post 59 by 34c, I'm sure that you'll find it IS an issue! I too would recommend a Lenz Silver or equivalent, as a minimum decoder for a motor of this kind of current draw! HOWEVER, please do always remember the constant DCC advice: The loco must run well on DC before fitting a decoder, if a new loco does not run properly, return it to the place of purchase! Cheers, John E. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
antrobuscp Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 Thanks 34c for the clarification - The immediate need to get into the body has gone, but I'll bear your comments in mind for the future. Colin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Trevellan Posted March 22, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 22, 2010 Southernman46 asks what the class 15s sounded like. The Paxman engines were totally different to the English Electric and Sulzer-engined locos that frequented my home area. I spent many hours in the mid/late 1960s around my local railway when these (and the class 16s) were still running on trip freights and parcels workings. Memory may be playing tricks but I seem to recall they sounded like a Valenta-engined HST - obviously without so much volume and turbo-scream. I can recall them pulling out of Broxbourne after standing for a while and throwing out some black smoke as the power wound up. Sadly, I never blagged a cab ride in one, but a friend at that time became a secondman shortly before the 15s were withdrawn and he confirmed that the view was never particularly good in any direction. Their duties were, in the main, either lost or taken over by 20s and 31s, so no real contest in terms of reliability, crew comforts etc. Still, like them or not, the 15s and 16s provided some variety for us local spotters and they did have character. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScRSG Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 Mine goes like a sewing machine! 0.1 amp gets it moving and top speed is more than adequate and at about 0.4 amp. (on DC)Superb! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
birdseyecircus Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 Just got my SYP class 15. It runs great, however it would be nice to have a diagram to explain were all the extra bits go. Whilst i can find out by looking at images in books & the net, is it really that difficult to produce this extra piece of paper? Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNERGE Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 I bought mine today from the same retailer as in the OP. Getting the decoder in was the struggle i was expecting with my dirty great sausages for fingers but so far it seems to run ok. Hopefully i'll get a chance later to give it a run with a good load and see how it goes.. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Trainshed Terry Posted March 22, 2010 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 22, 2010 I should have not gone into J.D of Chelmsford and should have not opened that Heljan class 15. S.Y.P version. It is great. There is a lot additional items to be attach, which glue to use. Terry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark54 Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 I forgot to mention in the parts packages there were no 34c/PMP flattened sixpences from Sherrardswood, which I felt was a serious ommission ... I have it on good authority that Bachmann are going to take advantage of this serious ommission by Heljan and are going to include flattened mark54 pennies from near The White Bridge in their forthcoming GSYP Cravens DMU detail parts. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robertcwp Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 My Heljan 15 runs well apart from being rather noisy. Here it is alongside my Dave Alexander one: Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Max Stafford Posted March 22, 2010 Share Posted March 22, 2010 I have it on good authority that Bachmann are going to take advantage of this serious ommission by Heljan and are going to include flattened mark54 pennies from near The White Bridge in their forthcoming GSYP Cravens DMU detail parts. Anything you boys want to tell me...? Seriously though, I'm rather looking forward to meeting my plain green one in the next day or two. Absolutely nothing to do with ScR, but I've always had a sneaking admiration for the Eastern in that period between the Southend (GE) electrification and the advent of corporate image. Comes from working on the site of the old goods yard at Vic for the first 4 years of my career, I suppose...! Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
edcayton Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Does anyone remember what we called these things "back in the day"? The TOPS codes hadn't been invented so we used terms such as Brush Twos, Baby Deltics, Sulzers etc, but I cannot recall saying BTH type 1's or whatever. Any thoughts? Ed Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
10800 Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 I think I did probably call them 'BTH Type 1s', inelegant though it is. Or '82ers' possibly. Also 'NB Type 1s'/'84ers' for the Class 16. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Trevellan Posted March 23, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 23, 2010 In my little group we just called the D82ers and D84ers. I'm sure the drivers and fitters had their own pet names... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 They were just 'Type 1' DXX; we weren't really that interested, and didn't see that many of them either. A friend at the time devised the 'no stripe/low stripe/mid stripe/two stripe' classification (21, 24, 26, 30) for flat fronted type 2 diesels, (think I have remembered it correctly). But that must have been confined to our small group as it has elicited not a hint of recollection from anyone else. (Are you out there Martmart?) I forgot to mention in the parts packages there were no 34c/PMP flattened sixpences from Sherrardswood, which I felt was a serious omission ... I have it on good authority that Bachmann are going to take advantage of this serious omission by Heljan and are going to include flattened mark54 pennies from near The White Bridge in their forthcoming GSYP Cravens DMU detail parts. Halfpennies were my chosen coin, (cheap then as I am now!) carefully annealed on the stove and 'done' near Ridgeway level crossing the first time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted March 23, 2010 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 23, 2010 Absolutely nothing to do with ScR, but I've always had a sneaking admiration for the Eastern in that period Hmm, and I have had it on very good authority that they frequently visited the Somerset & Dorset line, running via Gloucester, Bristol TM and Engine Wood. Problem is, can't now remember who told me.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
petee19 Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Collected mine today and have run it for well over an hour in both directions and have to say how disappointed I am with it.Everything was fine to start with but gradually it became sluggish, and jerky, there is also quite a high pitched squeak when running long nose first,neither will it run at very slow speed as the Clayton and Heljans latest 33 do. All these symptons are similar to those of the first Clayton so its back to the supplier next week. Pete. An update on my above post. Model was changed at Howes in Oxford today for a new one which I can report runs like a dream even at a crawl,my faith in Heljan has been restored! Pete. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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