Greyboard vs mountboard

[Tony Davis]

Has anyone used both, if so, which did you find better?

 

I ask because when I have only ever used greyboard I find the edges can "fluff"  sometimes. I have seen the mountboard cut for framing pictures and it always seem a lot crisper.

[Kiwi]

Has anyone used both, if so, which did you find better?

 

I ask because when I have only ever used greyboard I find the edges can "fluff"  sometimes. I have seen the mountboard cut for framing pictures and it always seem a lot crisper.

I agree with your observation. So which you use depends on your requirements. If cost is an issue, use greyboard. If quality is paramount, use mount board.

[Tony Davis]

Thanks, I will get some mounting board then as it seems worth a try.

[bgman]

I always find mount board to be superior and more stable for making model buildings. I've used it for many years without any signs of degrading.

I apologise for posting this picture here as it may be familiar to some others in this parish but it shows a part build and also of note is that all of the window frames were cut using a laser using the same board.

This has been in various storage areas in the house and has shown no signs of problems to date bearing in mind its probably about 4 years ago since I did any work to it.

Hope this helps.

( I purchase my board from the local Range store )

 

 

Note to self - I must finish off !!!

[nick_bastable]

mount board off cuts can be obtained from your local picture framer usually for a contribution  to the charity collection tin 

 

Nick

[Tony Davis]

That looks pretty good.

 

Now stop wasting time on the computer and get it finished :-)

[Izzy]

I find that greyboard is coarse and tougher to cut compared to mountboard, which I have used glued in layers like ply, as the material with which I have built all my recent layout baseboards as well as card buildings etc. Makes them fairly light but reasonably strong. The Range sells decent quality A1 size - you can get MB in various grades - @ 4 sheets for £10. Just be aware that exposed edges can feather/spread just like any other card/paper and benefit from being sealed in some way.

 

Izzy

[Tony Davis]

Looks like a visit to the range is on the cards, which will also please Mrs anthony07!

[bgman]

Looks like a visit to the range is on the cards, which will also please Mrs anthony07!

Always a good excuse to please the Mrs !

I'm sure I don't need to tell you, always use a good new blade for the cutting.

ATB

[grahame]

I'm sure I don't need to tell you, always use a good new blade for the cutting.

And replace the blade with a new one regularly. Card dulls the edge surprisingly quickly. A fresh sharp blade will cut cleanly and quickly. A blunt blade will hack card and can be dangerous.

 

G.

[Tony Davis]

Yes, regular blade changes are a way of modelling life nowadays.

[BSW01]

DOPE (the stuff used by model aircraft builders) can be used to seal the edges of card (grey or mount board), it stops them fluffing and stiffens the card too, yet still leaving it easy to cut. The only down side is it will discolour printed paper so is best used on the subframe only.

[Campaman]

Knotting fluid will do the same, as will liquid superglue.

[Tony Davis]

Dope & knotting fluid, are they safe to use indoors? I remember dope from my youth using it on balsa aircraft tissue but I can't remember if the p & m used to kick me outside to apply it.

[bertiedog]

Dope is completely safe for anywhere there is ventilation, a steady moving air to prevent stagnate build up of fumes. It is toxic, a lot of things are, just keep it sealed and stored away from any heat or chance of ignition. Do not let children near it.

Excellent for a permanent sealed surface on wood or card, also made as shrinking dope to use with tissue to cover surfaces with Japanese tissue, as say a wooden coach roof, it gives a perfect textured hard wearing surface.

Useful for scenery work, it can preserve dried foliage very well.

 

A useful board in thinner sizes is Bristol art board and paper, used in a model, the thick can be used for structures , then thinner for details and covering surfaces. It takes inks and stain very well.

 

Stephen

[Edwardian]

I always find mount board to be superior and more stable for making model buildings. I've used it for many years without any signs of degrading.

I apologise for posting this picture here as it may be familiar to some others in this parish but it shows a part build and also of note is that all of the window frames were cut using a laser using the same board.

This has been in various storage areas in the house and has shown no signs of problems to date bearing in mind its probably about 4 years ago since I did any work to it.

Hope this helps.

( I purchase my board from the local Range store )

 

image.jpeg

 

Note to self - I must finish off !!!

 

That is stunning.  I feel unworthy to pick up scalpel and Roket Card ever again! 

 

Please finish it.

 

I am interested in this debate.  So far, Castle Aching's buildings have been made exclusively from mount-board, which is 1.5mm thick.  I was criticised for this because it was said that my window reveals were too deep. 

 

I also note that Scalescenes work on 1mm and 2mm thicknesses.  I have only built one Scalescenes kit as the designer intended and using 1.5mm mount board did make things harder.

 

As a result, I did acquire a small stock of 1mm Grey Board, but I am tending to the view that I might stick to Mount Board, but construct widows to have frames that sit in their apertures instead of being stuck behind the walls.   

 

I wonder how others approach matters.

[BG John]

I've used greyboard for all my Scalescenes buildings so far, following the recommended thicknesses. I've just started the Low Relief Factory scaled up to 7mm, and am trying 3mm foamboard for that, as it's much easier to cut than thick greyboard. I haven't got far enough to know if it will be successful yet.

 

I've just bought an A1 sheet of mount board, with the intention of trying Jim Read's method of wagon, and hopefully loco, construction, so may try it on a building too.

 

So many choices, and they all need trying to find what works best for each of us!

[Tony Davis]

Hi Jim, I've been following your thread and am a fan of your modelling, so thanks for your input.

 

I am also a stingy old geezer and any tips which increase my modelling ability and decrease my expenditure are always appreciated! (so long as there is no cost involved, obviously....)

[Tony Davis]

I have seen a couple of photo's of the old station, and there are one or two remains of the joint line here still.

 

Don't know anything about secret works, but then I don't suppose that I would really :-)

 

Kind regards

 

Tony

[ozamrr]

I always find mount board to be superior and more stable for making model buildings. I've used it for many years without any signs of degrading.

I apologise for posting this picture here as it may be familiar to some others in this parish but it shows a part build and also of note is that all of the window frames were cut using a laser using the same board.

This has been in various storage areas in the house and has shown no signs of problems to date bearing in mind its probably about 4 years ago since I did any work to it.

Hope this helps.

( I purchase my board from the local Range store )

 

image.jpeg

 

Note to self - I must finish off !!!

 

Hi what is Mount board is it like MDF board wonder is I can get it over here in down under, I too am scratch building my station building a few floors like your building, I am modelling Sydney Central Station terminus station a huge project figurrin gout what to build it out of is that stuff pretty strong and can bend easy to cut the windows out, two stations building to build.

 

Tony from down under

[monkeysarefun]

Hi what is Mount board is it like MDF board wonder is I can get it over here in down under, I too am scratch building my station building a few floors like your building, I am modelling Sydney Central Station terminus station a huge project figurrin gout what to build it out of is that stuff pretty strong and can bend easy to cut the windows out, two stations building to build.

 

Tony from down under

Gday Tony,

 

Mountboard is good quality cardboard used for surrounds in picture framing etc, its around 1.5mm thick. Its available in art supplies shops - Eckersleys has it for instance.

 

They have outlets in Milton and Brisbane CBD if thats any help though you might be able to find it a bit cheaper if you look around,

 

Wow - Central station - thats commitment! What scale is it? I saw Ross Baldersons N scale version at the Sydney Model show a couple of years ago, thats an incredible job, especially at 2mm to the foot!

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rx94Umv8MUo

 

 

 

 

 

He wrote a book about the techniques he used, though its not that cheap:

 

http://www.blurb.com/b/848629-all-stations-to-central

[ozamrr]

Hi Monkeysarefun, love you pass word and many thanks for the pics  and links of Ross's N scale Sydney Central, I didn't know he wrote a book on his SC, he has been very helpfull with my Sydney Central in HO scale, I have spoken to him on the phone a few times and he has sent me a lot of measurements and drawing, is that book store in Australia as the cost of the the book is in US dollar but I came across the same lin in Aussie dollar will have to get the book now willfor sure help meout with my project.

 

My SC wont be the same width to scale haven't got the room be over 6ft wide, my building is just over 4ft wide had to cut out 5 sets of windows each side middle be the same, vbut when finished still be a stunning site indeed, lenght be  to scale, platform being 15feet long long enough to hold 18 cars. I have cut back on plaforms as well will only have 7 terminus platforms and three suburbun platforms, the only difference be freight trains running through.

 

There is an arts supply shop in Ipswich I will chenk them out when I go to  Voglers hobby shop across ther raod from that shop, not stating on SC till later on this year as I have only build half of my station module complex 6 modules all up there is approach modules each side of the station modules as well stage one 7 modules

 

Oh yeah I was lucky first week of October to visit Sydney Central station coming back from visiting Canberra war museum, huge place you need more than one day to go through it we were only there from mid morning and came back to Sydney by train had two hours before we had to catch a double deck train to the airport, my first rude on a double decker pure awesome, coming back to Sydney some time this year, forgot to take pics of platform one, it is a huge place be coming back in the cooler months

 

ONe of the main visits was to see the auto carrier loading dock at the end of platform one, sadly it wasn't there whole area is under development, do you know where GSR load on the cars now???

 

 

What scale are you modelling.

 

I be explaining about my layout in Garden railway the only way I can have a big layout is to venture outside the pergola, which is a module set up not permeant

 

 

 

 

 

Tony from Ipswich QLD many thanks

[ozamrr]

Hi Monkeysarefun, love you pass word and many thanks for the pics  and links of Ross's N scale Sydney Central, I didn't know he wrote a book on his SC, he has been very helpfull with my Sydney Central in HO scale, I have spoken to him on the phone a few times and he has sent me a lot of measurements and drawing, is that book store in Australia as the cost of the the book is in US dollar but I came across the same lin in Aussie dollar will have to get the book now willfor sure help meout with my project.

 

My SC wont be the same width to scale haven't got the room be over 6ft wide, my building is just over 4ft wide had to cut out 5 sets of windows each side middle be the same, vbut when finished still be a stunning site indeed, lenght be  to scale, platform being 15feet long long enough to hold 18 cars. I have cut back on plaforms as well will only have 7 terminus platforms and three suburbun platforms, the only difference be freight trains running through.

 

There is an arts supply shop in Ipswich I will chenk them out when I go to  Voglers hobby shop across ther raod from that shop, not stating on SC till later on this year as I have only build half of my station module complex 6 modules all up there is approach modules each side of the station modules as well stage one 7 modules

 

Oh yeah I was lucky first week of October to visit Sydney Central station coming back from visiting Canberra war museum, huge place you need more than one day to go through it we were only there from mid morning and came back to Sydney by train had two hours before we had to catch a double deck train to the airport, my first rude on a double decker pure awesome, coming back to Sydney some time this year, forgot to take pics of platform one, it is a huge place be coming back in the cooler months

 

ONe of the main visits was to see the auto carrier loading dock at the end of platform one, sadly it wasn't there whole area is under development, do you know where GSR load on the cars now???

 

 

What scale are you modelling.

 

I be explaining about my layout in Garden railway the only way I can have a big layout is to venture outside the pergola, which is a module set up not permeant

 

 

 

 

 

Tony from Ipswich QLD many thanks

Forgot to say I bought the Sydney Central  book a Century Of Sydney Central  and a smaller book as well,, looks like I didn't need to drag the pic into the post learning to get around posting pic.

 

Tony from Ipswich QLD