Advice on how to replace handrails on locos please

[SouthernBlue80s]

Hi

I am currently detailing 25190 and 47076

 

I require cab handrails for both. Preferably nickel but could be brass.

 

My understanding is 0.45mm is the right width. I am not sure how I would bend this accurately to 90degrees at each end.

 

So can anyone help. Does anyone know of a supplier that can provide ready made cab hand rails for a 25 and a 47?

 

Thanks

 

(The 25 is Bachmann - The 47 in Heljan)

Edited December 3, 2016 by SouthernBlue80s

[Fat Controller]

Hi

I am currently detailing 25190 and 47076

 

I require cab handrails for both. Preferably nickel but could be brass.

 

My understanding is 0.45mm is the right width. I am not sure how I would bend this accurately to 90degrees at each end.

 

So can anyone help. Does anyone know of a supplier that can provide ready made cab hand rails for a 25 and a 47?

 

Thanks

 

(The 25 is Bachmann - The 47 in Heljan)

https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=category&task=listing&cid=1166&name=12ba-1&Itemid=189 can supply the wire.

and the jig for bending it  https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=category&task=listing&cid=1286&name=hold-fold-brass-assist&Itemid=189

The only thing I would say about the jig is that it needs to be painted in high-viz colours to avoid losing it. I suppose I could just tidy my bench..

Edited November 25, 2016 by Fat Controller

[SouthernBlue80s]

Thanks FC

Wire and jig now ordered

[SouthernBlue80s]

Ok I now have the rails and jig.

 

I have a Bachamnn class 25 to make the rails for.

(before I start my thread on weathering it)

 

Has anyone got any tips please? I have never replaced hand rails before.

Do I take the body off? How do I affix them? From the back inside the body - or do I just slot them into the existing holes with out body removal?

 

Thanks

Steve

Edited December 3, 2016 by SouthernBlue80s

[crompton 33]

(1) Remove the body . (2) Glue the new handrails from inside the body with a little superglue. Use a cocktail stick  to put the glue on as you only need a touch to hold them in place.

[SouthernBlue80s]

(1) Remove the body . (2) Glue the new handrails from inside the body with a little superglue. Use a cocktail stick  to put the glue on as you only need a touch to hold them in place.

 

Perfect. Thank you

[Daddyman]

(1) Remove the body . (2) Glue the new handrails from inside the body with a little superglue. Use a cocktail stick  to put the glue on as you only need a touch to hold them in place.

Good advice on the cocktail stick. 

 

And check your fingers very carefully before picking up the body, to make sure you have no superglue on them! 

[Phil Bullock]

Have to agree with all the above - standard method on our Abbotswood locos

 

You can ensure the handrail is level by cutting a thin strip of card of appropriate thickness and sliding that under the handrail before the glue sets

 

And while you are inside your Bacchy 47 consider cutting the bottom off that crazy cab door glazing - the system of using it as body fixing clip recesses is so much trouble, one at least is bound to come loose when you replace the body!

 

Cheers

 

Phil

[SouthernBlue80s]

Thanks for the tips Phil 

[6892 Oakhill Grange]

Thanks FC

Wire and jig now ordered

Make the first bend using pliers. Put the short bit of the bend through the hole in the jig and then grip that bit in a vice then fold over the second leg of the grab rail. Doing it this way seems to ensure that the two legs end up in the same plane. If you are making several of the same length a quick mark with an indelible marker saves insanity and can later be removed with solvent.

 

 

Oakhill

[Poor Old Bruce]

Shawplan do etched handrails for various diesels, plus all sorts of other details.

[NickL2008]

With handrails, I always do a test fit to ensure I've got the right size, have the ends longer, so they go in better when test fitting as well

 

NL

[Chrom]

Don't have the tails inside too long. They can make them dig the soft metal and are then a real booger to get the body off again. Worse is to push them back out so you need to start again. I have several T-shirts doing things like that.

[NickL2008]

Don't have the tails inside too long. They can make them dig the soft metal and are then a real booger to get the body off again. Worse is to push them back out so you need to start again. I have several T-shirts doing things like that.

I normally trim them down afterwards, it just avoids covering the ends with glue to find out that it's too small or big

 

NL

[newbryford]

I normally trim them down afterwards, it just avoids covering the ends with glue to find out that it's too small or big

 

NL

 

Summarising the above.

 

Bend the handrails.

Fit them through.

Cut them down. (With a good pair of cutters - I find that angled flush cut do a good job)

Dab of superglue on the inside with cocktail stick. (cheap stuff is good as it tales a few seconds longer to cure)

Ease them out with a thin spacer (card or similar - I often use a scalpel blade slid in sideways) and pause for the glue to cure.

 

Sorted.

[6892 Oakhill Grange]

Make the first bend using pliers. Put the short bit of the bend through the hole in the jig and then grip that bit in a vice then fold over the second leg of the grab rail. Doing it this way seems to ensure that the two legs end up in the same plane. If you are making several of the same length a quick mark with an indelible marker saves insanity and can later be removed with solvent.

Oakhill

I meant Mark the hole / row that you are using on the jig with a marker. I seem to spend an age on each grabrail working out which line on the jig to use.

 

So this is definitely a case of do as I say not as I do.

[SouthernBlue80s]

Thank you all for all of the tips

Job complete

 

 

[ess1uk]

Excellent advice