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keidal

2 mm Finescale loco chassis

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This is a superb model of the SR / LSWR T9 loco, as is Nigel H's model of the 8 wheel tender - for an 0-8-0  loco perhaps ?

 

I'm wondering if the T9 was completely scratch built or whether it was produced from Worsley Works etches, whatever the build, the result is absolutely fantastic and what an encouragement for me to crack on !

 

Probably a daft question, but how do you keep the body from shorting the chassis please ? Do you rely on paint, or keep the loco eg. positive and the tender negative ? 

Its build is written up in three articles in the 2mm Magazine (Dec 2014/Jan 2015 & Feb/March 2015 & April/May 2015). It was a first attempt at building a 2mm FS tender loco and as I recall, although I don't have the articles to hand, it used a lot of Worseley Works etched body parts. The artcle is fairly detailed and includes a lot of useful build photographs.There was also a most interesting part about transferring weight from tender to loco by hinging the rear of the tender.

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The easiest solution I've come across is to take a piece of cigarette paper and super glue it to the bottom of the footplate. It is very thin, but keeps the body isolated.

This is the method I always use.  Cut the paper roughly to size, covering the whole footplate underside.  Position it in place and then flood it with cyano.  Leave for 10-15 minutes for the cyano to go hard and then cut away the excess and the opening for the mechanism.  I also do this with the insides of splashers as clearances can be pretty tight sometimes especially if some axles are allowed a little side play, such as the centre axles of six coupled chassis.    Do the same with the tender.  It's always best to have bodies electrically neutral to avoid any risk of shorts.

 

Jim

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This is a superb model of the SR / LSWR T9 loco, as is Nigel H's model of the 8 wheel tender - for an 0-8-0  loco perhaps ?

 

I'm wondering if the T9 was completely scratch built or whether it was produced from Worsley Works etches, whatever the build, the result is absolutely fantastic and what an encouragement for me to crack on !

 

Probably a daft question, but how do you keep the body from shorting the chassis please ? Do you rely on paint, or keep the loco eg. positive and the tender negative ? 

Thanks Keidal, its for a L & Y 0-8-0. There's a topic in the kitbuilding and scratchbuilding section.

 

An alternative to cigarette paper for isolation is thin tape or 5 thou plasticard. For the latter you may want to allow for this when designing your loco and tender frames.

 

Nig H

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Thanks Nigel, I produced kits in 4 mm and 7 mm scales for the L&Y small and large boiler 0-8-0 locos - decades ago. 

I should have thought more about 2 mm modelling at the time !

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The small MedVend unit which the 2mm shop sells.   Its really superb - far better than a Gaugemaster in my view - and only about £30.   

That's a battery device, takes a PP3 9v battery, and has a socket for external DC power. 

Optionally add a 12v (or if wanting really fast trains 15v)  DC power supply - less than £15 at many electrical sources if you don't have one kicking around from a long dead device. 

 

If going with Gaugemaster you must use the non-feedback types.

 

- Nigel

 

 

Has anyone used this controller with the Maxon RE10 Motor? My experience is that the loco doesn't run as smoothly as I like, although this might happen because of my chassis building skills.

 

Regards,

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