3D printed downpipe brackets

[David Bigcheeseplant]

I have drawn up downpipe brackets for 4mm scale I hope to get these produced by ModelU.

 

The ones shown are for 3" pipes so you can slide a 1mm rod through them, I also want to do the 4" round pipes and square types found on railway buildings.

 

As far as I am aware nobody produces a range of scale gutters and downpipes.

 

David 

[Nicktoix]

I have drawn up downpipe brackets for 4mm scale I hope to get these produced by ModelU.

 

The ones shown are for 3" pipes so you can slide a 1mm rod through them, I also want to do the 4" round pipes and square types found on railway buildings.

 

As far as I am aware nobody produces a range of scale gutters and downpipes.

 

David

 

Scalelink do an extensive range of gutters, fittings etc and have done for many years. All white metal.

Nick

[David Bigcheeseplant]

The problem with the Scalelink ones are as well as being a bit chunky is that the brackets are cast on the pipes, sliding the brackets on to brass rod or square section you can position them where you want.

 

Can anybody advise what is the stock size of square section, as I need something close to 1mm and 1.3mm.

 

David  

[rue_d_etropal]

Nice idea, but wonder how much of this extra detail is seen in smaller scales. I include drainpipes in my 3D printed buildings, no need to add, I could see parts like these being nice as displayed as fittings, in a factory or shop.

If there is enough interest, I would think these could be a contender for traditional injection moulding. I could see them in Wills range selling well.

[David Bigcheeseplant]

 I have made downpipes and brackets in the past by wrapping very fine fuse wire round 1mm brass rod, to be fair it was a real pain to get them all the same.

[MikeTrice]

Personally I think it is a good idea so worth a try. Is it worth putting a spigot on the back to fit in drilled holes for a stronger fitting to the building?

[David Bigcheeseplant]

I think it may be better to drill into the back of the bracket and into the brass downpipe and insert a wire spigot.

[iak]

Splendid idea.

The new technologies are allowing new approaches to auld problems.

[David Bigcheeseplant]

Some images of the square bracket version.

[rue_d_etropal]

would need a lot for even a small building, nice but at what cost, which is why I suggest injection moulding. Might be able to sell design to someone who could do that.

 

New technology is very useful, but it is tempting to use it for everything.I know I have gone down that route. 3D printing is good for items which are complex to make, complex to create a mould for or are only of interest to a few.

 

Would need to look at ways to stick to buildings.

 

I think that if you up sized them to 1/43, 1/32 and possibly even bigger, then there might be even more interest. I could see there being even more items that could be done for bigger scales.

[phil_sutters]

I think it may be better to drill into the back of the bracket and into the brass downpipe and insert a wire spigot.

Drilling into your 1mm downpipe will risk it breaking and dropping out of the bracket. In any case you will have a job to ensure that it goes dead centre. Unless of course you are a micro-surgeon in your day-time job, then it would be easy-peasy!

I think that the spigot is a better option.

Edited December 16, 2016 by phil_sutters

[BlackRat]

Most brackets I have seen, especially the modern ones are very thin indeed.

 

I still use the old fashioned method of using tiny split pins........which from normal viewing distance look ok to me anyway.

[David Bigcheeseplant]

Injection moulding would be very expensice to tool up, hence 3D printing, Alan Butler at ModelU will be doing a test print in the next few days. Geoff Taylor who does makes model buildings as a living was enquiring to Alan about doing these anyway and as I needed some thought I would draw them up.

 

Yes moden brackets are very thin these are drawn to match the cast iron type, which are like those I have drawn, the minimum wall thickness for 3D printing is 0.15mm although I have done these at 0.25 wall thickness but will see once printed if I can reduce it down a bit.

 

I could try a spigot but don't think it would be that strong.  Once I get back some samples will see how practical they are. 

[David Bigcheeseplant]

I have added one round downpipe to my Aylesbury model (right hand end of the wall) for one reason the one shown is the only round pipe all others are square.

[phil_sutters]

The problem with the Scalelink ones are as well as being a bit chunky is that the brackets are cast on the pipes, sliding the brackets on to brass rod or square section you can position them where you want.

 

Can anybody advise what is the stock size of square section, as I need something close to 1mm and 1.3mm.

 

David  

A very quick Google came up with this supplier http://www.wires.co.uk/acatalog/square_jewellery_wires.html  I know nothing about them apart from a quick glimpse at their website. They seem to have a wide range of sizes and the prices seem way under the equivalent plastic rods. I didn't look at their postal rates.

Edited December 17, 2016 by phil_sutters

[Mike Storey]

would need a lot for even a small building, nice but at what cost, which is why I suggest injection moulding. Might be able to sell design to someone who could do that.

 

New technology is very useful, but it is tempting to use it for everything.I know I have gone down that route. 3D printing is good for items which are complex to make, complex to create a mould for or are only of interest to a few.

 

Would need to look at ways to stick to buildings.

 

I think that if you up sized them to 1/43, 1/32 and possibly even bigger, then there might be even more interest. I could see there being even more items that could be done for bigger scales.

 

Totally agree - I suggest 1/24 and 1/19 for the garden railway sizes. These are much more prominent in those scales and I have not found anyone that makes them separately (They do for 1/12 for dolls houses, so the 7/8ths brigade are happy enough). Gutters and downpipes are usually supplied with resin or other kits. The brackets are usually a rough cast as part of the downpipe, and do not look convincing in those scales. It is easy enough to make better looking gutters and downpipes oneself in the large scales, but brackets and supports are another matter. That is where I think you would do well.

[Giles]

I do the 'strap' type down-pipe brackets, to complement the gutter brackets I do. These suit laser cutting - however, Dave's printed cast variety look superb, and quite the nicest I've seen, showing the value of 3D printing in this context.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[David Bigcheeseplant]

Those brass square sections look great I will order some up and try them, 1.25mm is spot on for a 4inch pipe.

 

The idea of these bits is to help me in my modelling which is 4mm scale, if others want bits in other scales that up to them, although if ModelU add them to their range then scaling them up to 7mm may be an idea.

[Broadway Clive]

I dont think 3D printed downpipe brackets are a viable idea because its over engineering a tiny detail that can easily be created with paper, and you cant get cheaper than that!  

[rue_d_etropal]

Back in 80s there was a model building system that used scale sized bricks, and rods to hold the structure together. It was meant to be the next big thing, but most people want something that is relatively quick to build these days. It might have even included drainpipe fittings, but not sure.

There are also those who will build everything out of scrap material, and rarely buy anything new. I admire some of what can be produced this way, but they are not on my list of potential customers, as they will always say it is possible to do it themselves and are usually negative about 3D printing. Some even print their own brick paper, or use something like computer chads to do brickwork. We would not have r2r models if everyone did it themselves.

With 3D printing it is created in the virtual world, and items only produced when they are wanted. It is also not that expensive to test it out on the market and if it does not take off you have not lost much if you put it to one side. The designs remain, forever, so can be picked up at a later date. I could see something like this being produced on a home printer.

[David Bigcheeseplant]

The brick system in the 1980s was Formcraft, I did use it but prefered Slaters plastickard, for years they did not produce English bond so most of my building had flemish bond as that was the best option but incorrect if you wanted English bond, since then I now draw up and laser cut on to Rowmark as this allows me not only to get the correct brick bond but tp ensure I have the correct quater bricks round windows doors and corners. I have tried to progress using new methods and now design most thing in 3D using Fusion 360 a free download. 

 

I used to make downpipe brackets from strips of microstrip and paper, then fine fuse wire soldered to brass rod and as stated earlier not just a pain to make but to make then all identical, hopefully 3D printing will not only make life easier but more accurate.

 

I guess it is what we want to get  out of our modelling but I try to make my models to the highest standard I can achieve.

 

There are many laser cut kit and 3D printed item which are really bad just like in the past there were bad etched kits. Some laser cut kits have butt joint corners that look horrible or have an entire wall from windows doors cut from one sheet that lack depth in the vital areas.

 

I do spend a long time studying how things go together and try to design the model to follow the prototype, I spend more time at the design stage but it does ensure you save time on the actual modelling bit.

 

David  

Edited December 17, 2016 by David Bigcheeseplant

[rue_d_etropal]

David, pleased to find someone else who cares about using correct brick bonds. Far too many kits use plain stretcher bond, which ironoically is correct for typical Lancashire terraced houses but not for industrial or railway buildings.

It is sometimes not easy to see how brickwork goes around windows, and some of mine are not quite right. Having said that, local builders would have their own prefences. Corners are rarely done correctly, and are not easy with laser cutting, so presume there is some additional work there. Didn't the Formcraft have preformed corners as an option? I won't even say much about card kits, although if you use the downloaded ones, and take care it looks better, but still not enough 3D feel for me.

Most laser cut building kits don't have parts for drainpipes, but are still not cheap. Often better to find something cheap enough to modify. Just wish more opted for a stone finish instead of an inacurate brick one, but then I suppose brick is less locallity dependent, apart from the example I gave above.

[David Bigcheeseplant]

Alan Butler has now added these downpipe brackets to the Modelu range, these are available in 4mm and 7mm scales in round and square versions in and all scales both types can be produced in 3 inch and 4 inch versions.

 

http://www.modelu3d.co.uk/product-category/detailing-components/architectural-detailing/pipes-fittings/

 

These are very nice and do make a difference.

Edited August 1, 2017 by David Bigcheeseplant