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As described in my recent modification of a Bachmann VBA wagon to show an open door, I recently returned to railway modelling. I say "returned"; I had never really been away, but instead only been playing trains with RTR while spending almost all of my modelling time on military modelling instead.

 

Thankfully, I had the sense to stick to a similar scale (1/76 to 1/72), to allow me to eventually combine the two. In the meantime, I've cut my teeth making vehicle kits of varying complexity, from relatively simple Airfix kits right up to >150 component white-metal kits from BW Models or Kingfisher Miniatures. This allowed me to get much better at handling kits and modifying things - although I am still by no means an expert! As with all of this hobby, it's a true learning process, so my philosophy is that my next build will always be better than the last.

 

 

A bit of background -

I've built quite a lot of British Army vehicles, including Land Rovers, various logistics vehicles, engineering plant as well as both heavy and light armour, which I would like to display on - or drag around - a railway layout. While heavy armour (i.e. Main Battle Tanks, MBTs) doesn't travel by rail, most things up to this size either has or still does. Particularly, light amour is still transported over longish distance routes, to limit track wear and the number of transporters needed to move formations of tanks.

 

Two types of wagon are usually used for light armour, either Warflat or Warwell wagons. Warwells are used for the taller things like Warrior infantry fighting vehicles, while Warflats are often seen transporting the smaller Combat Vehicle Reconaisance (Tracked) (CVR(T)) series of light tanks.

 

Unfortunately, no RTR examples exist. Bachmann have been saying since 2013(?) that they are designing a Warwell, but this is the much earlier type which was vacuum braked only, and retired from MOD trains way before my period of interest. A 3D printed example of a modern Warwell exists from Wild Boar Models, but seems pretty pricey and I've had a few other 3D printed models in the past which have terrible layering that I haven't come up with a decent solution for yet.

 

The only option for a Warflat that I considered possible was the Genesis kits one. However, while I've been covetting these for about a year, I had seen many posts on here and other forums about how difficult they are to build, are poorly moulded, covered in flash or are otherwise beyond the averge modeller. I would like to say straight away that those comments are comlpletely wrong - I've found them very straightforward to build, crisply moulded, and overall well designed and pleasing kits. I probably spent no more than three hours on one wagon, including fitting the bogies, trimming all the flash and allowing parts to set in place. I'm doing a rake of four, so I expect I'll get quicker with the rest.

 

 

My aim is to write this thread to assist anyone else who wants to build these kits, so that it's as straightforward for them as possible and to demonstrate anyone can do it. It will take a few days to put together (longer than the actual wagon!), so please bear with me while I add photos etc.

 

Cheers

 

Andy

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Tools required

Scalpel (with sharp blades)

Cutting matt

Steel rule - more to provide a straight edge for comparison than anything else

Superglue

Cocktail sticks - the cheap kind, as they're used to apply superglue to all of the small parts

Caps from beer bottles - useful for putting the superglue into before picking up a small bit on the cocktail stick.

Drinks - copious brews, or beer from the bottles mentioned above ^^

 

Method of assembly

I have built all of my white metal vehicle kits previously using superglue - I have read elsewhere that due to the size of this kit, heating the metal with a soldering iron is a non-starter, as theres simply too much heat sink effect. Others (particularly more skilled kitbuilders) may disagree; all I can say is that I find superglue tends to work well for me, so that's what I used. Any reasonable brand seems to do the job, but I tend to stay with either Locktite or the Rocket glues. Interestingly, the least viscous Rocket seems to work well, although it is the fastest setting - so might not be ideal for use on all the parts unless you work quickly. I find the more viscous rocket does give a stronger bond.

 

Kit Contents

The contents of the plastic bag holding the kit contain a bag of white metal parts (I'll describe these later), and the large parts of the assembly loose - the sides, the deck of the carrier and the trapezium shaped centre strengthening beam

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All are incredibly well defined mouldings, clearly representing all of the important details - plates on the solebar are present, as are good representations of the wooden longitudional beams, and the mounting eyes for the vehicle restraining strops / chains.

 

The instruction sheet is very comprehensive, and easy to follow

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I will point out that I wish I had read it more carefully, as most of what I'm writing I realised AFTER I'd glued everything together. Thankfully, it's quite easy to split superglued joints! I'll try to point out the parts where I made errors so that nobody else does the same!

 

All of the components had a minimal amount of flash. It doesn't look like they have tried to file it off (as some other kit suppliers do), but it is very easy to shave off with a scalpel as it's so thin and soft.

 

These photos show the main deck -

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This was fairly warped when I got it, but it is possible (and quite easy) to gently straighten it. The material is pretty soft, so I simply bent it by hand, and compared it to the flat desk and the straight edge of the steel rule until I was happy. I would strongly advise caution in bending parts though, as white metal tends to fracture easily, and I don't think it would be easy or really possible to repair.

 

The rest of the large components were pretty well straight and square, or straightened as the deck.

 

 

The bag contains the rest of the components, and contained the following:

The wagon ends:

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The bits at the bottom under the solebar are to house the jacks, which are lowered when loading / unloading vehicles, presumably to stop the suspension rocking or bouncing the wagons off track. These are separate bits, I'll show them later.

 

An air tank and brake reservoir.

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These are very crisply moulded, and fit into the recessed parts of the trapezium-shaped strengthening bar that runs under the main deck.

 

Four buffers, and two odd C-shaped parts that I later found out were to make the female NEM-type coupling. The flash on the buffers was the hardest bit to remove, as they're so fiddly and I kept dropping them!

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Four brake wheels (two per bogie), two dummy couplings, and four pins for mounting the bogies

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The dummy coupings are a fair approximation of a three link coupling. You coud swap this for a finer scale example, but to me life is too short! The flash on the brake wheels scares me as they're such fine mouldings. The wheels are painted bright white against the background of the green wagon and bogies; therefore I'll only fit these after painting seperately, and after I've painted the rest of the bogies.

 

There shouldn't have been four bogie pins. There should be only two, with four jacks, which were missing from this kit.

These photos show a single pin and a single jack (from another kit). Initially I thought they were both parts for the jacks, but no.

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The four jacks were missing from this kit. I checked all of the other kits that I ordered at the same time, and found that some contained two jacks, and one three, but overall I was 9 diffy. I contacted Ken at Genesis kits, who was incredibly helpful and apologetic, and offered to send replacements immediately. I received them the very next day - demonstrating fantastic customer service!

 

Parts for the bogies:

The bogie mounting bits / pins. No idea what the proper name is for these, so will call them the mounts. Note the lateral parts, I wasn't sure what these are, whether they were there as spacers only, but it became clear later in the build.

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The bogie sides:

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These were the worst bits for the flash, but also one of the most detailed parts. I took a long time cleaning these parts up, and it paid dividends IMHO.

 

The stretcher bars for the bogies.

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The design is such that they form a pair (big and small), with holes to go over the mounts and secured by a pin (described above). You'll notice that the smaller part has a long tongue of white metal attached. In my eagerness to get on with the build, I thought that this was simply a remnant of the casting, and lopped it off one of them. DON'T do this!

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...on *carefully* re-reading the instructions, I realised that this is an integral part of the coupling design, where a seperate part (shown in the same pic as the buffers) is fitted over the end to make an NEM-type coupling female end for a coupling of the user's choice. No matter; this bogie can be the end of the rake, that I'll super detail in due course.

 

I think this is all of the kit contents and prep; my next post will show some actual building.

 

Andy

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The Build

I should highlight at this point that DRY FITTING EVERYTHING is key to a successful build! I found out at several points that I was trying to put things in the wrong place, or where I had tried to straighten the edges by eye and then realised that this didn't square with the pieces already on the model - so adjustments have to be made before gluing anything.

 

The Wagon Frame

The first step of the build was to fix to the deck the sole bars (on the sides) and the wagon ends, so that you're left with a sort of box shape.

 

This was a slightly fiddly job - one of those when a second pair of hands would have been helpful. My personal technique here was to do one side, one end, then the opposite side and finally the other end. It's important here to end up with a square solebar, rather than a parallelogram-like one! Once all were in place and I was happy, I could glue. I simply used a mug as a prop to hold bits in place while the glue was drying, and when all four parts were on, they supported each other piece.

 

I also fitted the trapezoid strengthening beam, as it would give me somewhere to hold onto while the glue for the (more fragile) sides was curing.

 

All four sides (and centre beam) in place:

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I should add here that the underside of the wagon deck is crisply and precicely detailed to assist in the construction - there are nodules to help align the pieces, so it's really very clear how to put it together, even without the instructions.

 

My only slight issue was with the alignment of the wagon ends - they dried very slightly out of square, and so there are some small gaps between the ends and the solebar. The angle can be overcome by gently bending the ends (i'll only do this once I've finished the wagon, and only if it doesn't look right), and I'll add some filler (green stuff or miliput) before painting to fill any remaining gaps.

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Next stage was to add the brake air cyclinder and distributer (valve) to the trapezoid beam (called the truss in the instructions).

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The beam has two recessed bits in the casting to assist placing them - the cyclinder went on without a hitch...

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But there is an overly-long spacer on the side arm of the valve gear. When dry fitting, the valve was spaced clear of the body by one spacer, but far too far from the truss by the long spacer.

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It may have been possible to drill the truss to accomodate this, but it would still have been too long and come through the other side. So I lopped this off, and then was able to fit it in the correct position.

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It is a very good representation of the simple brake gear on these wagons, as sen on the prototypes. If I wanted to build a 100% true to scale model rather than a representation that I'm happy to have on a working layout, I may have rigged up the air lines etc. underneath - this would be very easy for a competent modeller to do, as there is plently of space for it. But I quite like the simplicity of this without, so maybe will do that on a later build.

 

Once the solebars werein place, I could move on.

 

The bogies

The bogie mounts that I described in my earlier post are fitted to the wagon body next. They should fit nicely into the squares cast onto the underside of the wagon body - as shown below.

 

The incorrect way:

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The corrent way:

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Note that the transverse spacer has to lie lateral to the travelling direction of the wagon body. It doesn't fit when in line with the body - yet another good design by Ken et al. at Genesis, which stops over-eager numpties like me from messing it up! The instructions do of course also say this.

 

My only concern with this part is that the underside of the square is actually remarkably hollow - this saves on weight, I supose (the wagon is already quite heavy, and I wonder if anything other than a Hornby 60 will shift a decent rake one loaded!) but it does mean that only the lip is able to take any glue. I guess this is one of the few weak points of the kit and I added plenty of glue inside and outside of the joint to try to give as much support as possible.

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This is what it looks like once the mounts are fitted

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These pictures show the amount of cleaning up of the bogies needed that I mentioned previously - probably not the best pictures, but the one above still has quite a lot of flash, whereas the one underneath has been largely cleaned up.

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This is all I have for now. I have to re-size a load of other photos I took before adding them here (pesky 1MB limit).

 

 

But I couldn't resist a little piccy of the wagon showing two of my other "works in progress" - a CVR(T) Samson light recovery vehicle, and a CVR(T) Spartan personnel carrier!post-11408-0-28407900-1483449773.jpgpost-11408-0-63542400-1483449772.jpg

 

 

I was very happy at this stage - the scale looks pretty good and this had all taken me less than 90 mins. In the next post, I'll show the completion of the bogies and the final details before painting.

 

Andy

Edited by andypops
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Completion of the Bogies

After installing the bogie mounts, I then had to build the bogies. After cleaning up all four bogie sides to remove flash, I then drilled out the dimples using a 2mm drill bit (in a pin vice) to allow fitting of the bearings. These were Markits M83 2mm "Top Hat" type (ex. Romford).

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I found that I had to drill almost all of the way through the bogies to get the required depth for the bearings - I would definitely recommend care being taken with this stage, as it would be difficult (nigh impossible) to repair the damage to the bogie if a mistake was made.

 

I also drilled the holes for the brake wheels - I measured the diameter of the brake wheel stem using a vernier caliper, and then used an appropriate drill in a pin vice to drill right the way through. The instructions (and prototype photos) show that the brake wheels are mounted on all bogies towards the centre of the wagon, so I drilled in approximately the right spot. I couldn't see any guides or markings on the bogies, but it looks like the same casting was used for all pieces. As said in an earlier post above I am not going to fit the brake wheels until after the whole wagon is finished and painted, but this was the best time to drill the holes without stressing / bending the bogie sides.

 

Once the holes were drilled and bearings were fitted (and glued), I moved onto the spacers.

 

NB - drilling the bogie frames essentially makes these chiral, and so care must be taken when fixing the spacer bars that the bogie is assembled such that the holes will be towards the centre of the wagon.

 

I will also say at this point that I decided to build the bogies without wheels - I thought that it would be too fiddly to try to hold everything in the right place while also holding the bogie frame together while the glue dried. I was going to add these after painting - although in retrospect, I should have added the wheels at this stage so that I could check the alignments, rather than have to adjust at a later stage. I used 10.5mm wheel from Peters Spares (part no. PS33); 2 sets were needed per wagon.

 

 

The spacers, as shown in a previous post, come in two parts - a slightly wider one, and a slightly thinner one, with a pair making a "top and bottom".

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The slightly thinner one has (or should have!) a tongue, which forms part of the coupling later. As I didn't read before cutting (thinking it was a remnant from the casting), only one end will have this. The other end will be the outer end of the rake.

 

The instructions say to trim these to 24mm. I actually measured these before starting to clean the ends up; one was 24.5mm and the other 23mm! So, I trimmed / tidied up the ends of all spacers to 23mm to ensure continuity.

 

The thinner spacer has a smaller hole, while the wider spacer has a larger hole. I did read the instructions for this bit, carefully, but got a bit confused. I initially figured that these should have the larger hole closer to the top of the bogie - to give some wiggle room around the mount to allow free rotation, while the small hole should be underneath, and could then retain the pin that holds the bogie in place. That was the plan at least!

Thus, I build the bogies like this, showing only the one spacer bar in place for clarity.

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This is the view of the assembled bogies at this point (viewed from above)

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This is the overall look

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This was proven to be the completely wrong thing to do!

 

When test fitting the bogie, I found that there was far too much space between the bogie and the mount, leading to a very unsightly raised effect. Also, it wasn't possible to fit the pin through - it was too short.

 

These photos hopefully show the larger gap - it's a bit tough to see in photos because it's all shiny silver colour, but stands out like the dog's doo-dah's in real life.

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I realised that this was because the bogies were sitting in the wrong place on the mounts; the pesky transverse spacer was pushing the bogie out too far. So, I needed to re-build, with the spacers the other way around - the thin one at the top of the bogie, and the wider one with the wider hole towards the bottom of the bogie.

 

These views in my hand show the re-assembled bogie a bit better in the light. Although they show some bowing to the spacers from where I had to disassemble the bogies! This was repaired though.

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Once the two bogies were together, I drilled out the solid stem in the mount, ready to put the pin through. The small pin only has a short stem, and goes completely through the large hole in the wide spacer to actually sit within, and acts upon the small spacer. I hope that makes sense! Again, a picture says a thousand words.

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After drilling, the bogie was put in place (making sure to get the brake wheel holes in the right spot!!) and the pin tip (and just the tip!) carefully glued within the drilled bogie mount stem. I found it useful to keep the bogie moving while the pin dried, so that I didn't inadvertently glue the bogie in a fixed position by excess glue.

Also visible in the final pics is that I've added the odd C-shape casting to the end of the tongue, to make the NEM-type pocket for pitting couplings to.

 

This picture shows the much smaller gap, now that the bogies are correctly fitted.

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This is the view from the bogie end.

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Final details

The only details that I was planning to add before painting were the bogie jacks and the representation of the coupling. I did the jacks first; this was by far the fiddliest bit of the entire build, and found me swearing at the tiny little bits which pinged all over my desk (and floor!). With a limited supply and no spares (since I was only sent the number needed to complete the kits and no spares), I had to crawl around among the dust at several points trying to find them. Quick setting glue and tweezers which aren't sprung (so they don't suddenly snap shut) are musts for this stage.

 

Some views of the wagon ends with jacks.

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The couplings were added in the recessed part of the wagon - as with other parts, I measured the stem diameter with a vernier, and drilled an appropriate hole at the dimple before gluing in place.Sadly, I forgot to take a picture of this in place, but will show this in the final pics.

 

In my final post I'll show the complete wagon and give some summary points.

 

Andy

 

 

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Finishing Touches

These are some pictures of the physically completed wagon. It's in a terribly painted state - I actually wanted to test some brush painting techniques, so decided to have a go at this without a primer - predictably, it's turned out to be a mess, and so I'm currently waiting to strip the paint off and start again. However, I often keep things waiting for a while to be painted, so it might be some time before I get around to posting the "Final" final look of the wagon.

 

Sorry for the terrible lighting - but it is after 2am and I don't want to put too many lights on lest I wake up and continue modelling after writing this!

 

This is the overall view of the wagon - and to my eyes, it looks a very close match to the real thing.

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NB that the holes for the brake wheel handles are located towards the centre of the wagon, as per the prototype.

 

This shows one end, with the NEM pocket

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It looks to be perfectly sited to me - clear of the buffers and jacks (to allow free rotation), but broadly unobtrusive.

 

This is a close up:

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As can be seen, I had to remove the lower portion of the coupling chain representation to accommodate the NEM pocket, but that's not going to worry me - the hook is still present.

 

This is the other end, where I have no such NEM pocket

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In my view, I think the completed kit (ignoring my dodgy paintwork) looks great! I am over the moon with it. It runs nicely, and just needs painting, weathering and loading to make a cracker of a kitbuild.

 

 

Summary

Hopefully, I've been able to show that this kit is very simple and easy to build - unlike other people have (IMHO wrongly) said otherwise.

 

I am by no means an expert; I would definitely still say I'm a novice - I've built other white metal kits, but never a railway wagon before - but I would rate this as somewhere between a breeze and very easy.

 

I estimate that this took me no more than three hours, spread over a couple of sessions.

 

The instructions were very clear, although I went a bit off piste at times without really thinking as I didn't read them carefully enough. Hopefully however, I've demonstrated the likely pit-falls that can be made, and how I recovered from them.

 

Very little specialist kit or knowledge was needed. Plenty of photos exist online (in the usual places, or even just via Google image searching), and as the wagons are simple, there's not much that can go wrong. I would say that a pin vice with some drill bits between 0.5-3 mm and a scalpel are the only really essential tools. I only used the other extra ones because I have them lying around.

 

I would give this fantastic kit a 10/10, for its ease of build, quality and its well thought out design. It is obvious from my dealings with Ken at Genesis kits that they thrive on producing kits that us modellers are happy with and are produced to a very high standard (the best I have seen yet from any other white metal kit suppliers), and I would recommend this kit to absolutely anybody.

 

Hopefully, my work has been straightforward to follow. I have written all of this down to help anyone who is unsure how to do it themselves, and I'm happy for anyone to message me directly or via here and I'll do my best to answer any questions. It's also an aide memoir for me; I have three more kits to build soon, and once I've paid off my post-Christmas sale shopping, I will likely be investing in more!

 

 

Happy modelling,

 

Andy

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  • 4 years later...

Finally got round to starting my kit today. Don't think there was a single straight piece of metal in there. Good job its for me little 7 year old so as long as it looks right, it is. Bogie castings are truly horrible but I guess this was probably near the end of production so maybe the moulds were worn out. 

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Edited by TRAILRAGE
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Managed to build up one bogie so far but this is without doubt one of the worst kits I've ever tried building, and I've built a Genesis Kits FNA! Nothing on the Bogie matched up but I finally got a running example. Tried Romford's but the Axle was to long So tried some old Gibson (which wobble like Jelly) and although the frames are as square as I could possibly get, the axles seemed to short at one end. Turns out the Bogie Sideframe thickness isn't consistent!. Managed to Sort it out so it runs. 

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Second Bogie now built and up and running.  Although it went together easier than the first its still not completely square. One issue is that the body tips to one side when mounted on the bogie itself, so defo need some remedial work here. It also sits a bit higher than the Hatton's Warwell. Body has had two cots of Humbrol Matt 75 Which is a good close match to Bronze Green.  This has also shown up where the body isn't flat or level leaving some gaps. May try some thick superglue as a filler on those bits. Need to source some 6 spoke Handwheels as I seem to only have 4 spoke left. Headstocks have had a thin coat of Humbrol Matt White as a base for the Yellow to be added. I decided to use Some spare Metal Bachmann Sprung Oval buffers (off one of my DRS 37 modes that I had replaced with some from Hornby). The coupling bar will be cut back to match the Warwells and I may try some Kadee NEM 18's which I also use on the Warwell although for my little Boy Tension Locks will probably be fitted.  I have a couple of old Jouef H0 Gauge Bogie Well Wagons that I painted up as Warwells so he can run it with something. The wagon seems to cope with Medium Radius points ok but the short Radius on me Boys layout are a no no. But that's also the same for my Hatton's Warwells. Need to source some Transfers for it now But Ill be blowed if I can find any, so if anyone has any suggestions that would be handy.

 

 

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Edited by TRAILRAGE
Adding pics
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Done a bit more on this last night and today. Was gonna add the little extra plates either side of the Jacking Brackets for the safety loops, but there isn't quite enough space do drilled holes in the Brackets themselves and fitted some spare 3 link loops. Painted yellow with Railmatch 202 Warning Panel Yellow 94-03. Paint has definately gone off so after copius amounts of shaking and stirring, I still had to add some thinners. Its had two coats now znd still not perfect but with a little thinned down faded yellow Paint it may not look to bad. Bogies painted Matt Black. Found some old Cambrian 4 spoke Handwheels but I might see If I have any 51L etched brass 6 spoke. Just need to add Coupling hooks, and paint the Decking. Anybody have any Idea what Wood may have been used ? It would be nice to try and match if possible.

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Edited by TRAILRAGE
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Had to to some height adjustment before painting the Bogies aswell as you can see sat next to a Heljan 47 it was way to tall.

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Bogies painted and body temporary fitted.  About 30 secs after the pic was taken the near bogie fell apart! Don't really know what happened. Is it possible the paint degraded the superglue used (possibly due to its age)? Anyhoooo the bogie is now setting with superglue Gel. Well see what its like o  tne Morrow . 

 

Cheers Trailrage

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Edited by TRAILRAGE
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Bogie fixed, coupling bar cut down to match the lengh of the Hattons Warwells and NEM pocket glued on. Popped in some Kaydee no18 which made me realise I had to bend the bar to get it at the correct height.   Buffers still did a tad high but If I lower it on to the Bogies anymore, there wont be enough clearance. Ps

painted the Decking a Humbrol Matt Beige to represent bear wood which will need some toning down & weathering. Still need to paint the Axleboxes yellow and sort brakewheels. Couldn't help myself and plonked a couple of Cararama Land-rover  Ambulances to see what it looked like.

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Well nearly done. Gloss varnished the sideframes and Bogie sides in anticipation of getting a set of Transfers. Decided on using Games Worksop Citadel Colour 61-12 "Scorched Brown"  thinned with a little water. Didnt come out

to bad. Although may darken it a tad. Overall considering how bad the kit was it hasn't come out to bad. Not sure I'd wanna build another one though, but if one came up cheap enough I may be tempted for my littleman.

 

andypops  did you ever finish yours off? It would be good to see some pics. 

 

Cheers Trailrage 

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