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Most realistic Buffer stop with DCC lights..


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Well the DCC lights may be as good as available, but I'm not sure about the buffer stop.  I'm not sure if you can buy these individually.  Personally, I think the buffer stops from Lanarkshire Models (http://www.lanarkshiremodels.com/lanarkshiremodelsandsupplieswebsite_023.htm) are as good as you will get, and you can choose what best suits your area.  However, you then need to source lights separately.

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Hi All,

 

Which is the most realistic (preferably 70s,80s) OO Gauge Buffer stop with DCC lights..

 

This or something better? http://www.gaugemaster.com/item_details.asp?code=GM55&style=main&strType=&Mcode=Gaugemaster+GM55

 

Thanks

 

Nick

 

 

Easy enough to make your own early style oil type lamp, using any buffer stop - ie Peco etc cut off the plastic lamp, replace with an 1.5mm Red axial LED, paint the body black, then white apart from the lens, bend one of the legs up to look like a handle, glue to the top face of the buffer stop, and connect it up via a resistor to your chosen power supply/switch etc.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Red-AXIAL-LED-1-5mm-x-10-Free-Postage-/161893988966?hash=item25b1a23a66:g:UIgAAOxydlFS38qY

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Send me an email to rmlectronics@btinternet.com. I have some in stock, using the Peco Buffer, sprayed and finished. Comes with resistor & diode for wiring to DCC bus. Contact me I'll send a picture. Cheers, Robert

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Don't forget though, many bufferstops wouldn't have a lamp at all until modern times even then some still don't.

Station terminus roads, lye bye sidings, carriage sidings, well used head shunts, modern loco maintenance sheds could all have some sort of lamp but sidings at little wayside stations, shunting yards, goods shed roads and engine shed roads wouldn't have anything until Health and Safety became more of a concern then electric lamps on a post appeared but still not everywhere.

A bit of a generalisation I know but it is a good idea to check photos of a similar place and period to what you are modelling.

 

Dave Franks.

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Don't forget though, many bufferstops wouldn't have a lamp at all until modern times even then some still don't.

Station terminus roads, lye bye sidings, carriage sidings, well used head shunts, modern loco maintenance sheds could all have some sort of lamp but sidings at little wayside stations, shunting yards, goods shed roads and engine shed roads wouldn't have anything until Health and Safety became more of a concern then electric lamps on a post appeared but still not everywhere.

A bit of a generalisation I know but it is a good idea to check photos of a similar place and period to what you are modelling.

 

Dave Franks.

 

 

I know what your saying.. but it looks very good with a light on it.. lol

Thanks for all the replies so far.. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Found it. Thanks.. https://www.dccconcepts.com/manual/owners-manual-illuminated-buffer-stops/ 

Can one use 1 chip for more that 1 light or will that dim the lights to half power etc?

 

The small circuit board has 3 different value resistors

103 = 10K ohm

102 = 1K ohm

512 = 5.1K ohm

 

Wire up one BS and then try with each of the above resistors to give the brightness required -  1K - bright /  5.1K dimmer / 10K dim-est..   With two or more wired together try the same........

 

As for the dotted green link wires - ?? 

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The small circuit board has 3 different value resistors

103 = 10K ohm

102 = 1K ohm

512 = 5.1K ohm

 

Wire up one BS and then try with each of the above resistors to give the brightness required -  1K - bright /  5.1K dimmer / 10K dim-est..   With two or more wired together try the same........

 

As for the dotted green link wires - ?? 

 

 

I would like to buy something to get from 16V down to 12V. (a resistor ??) As i am looking at running 12V lights direct from 16V Track. One of those chip things in the photo above would be good but i cant find them without buffers included.. 

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I would like to buy something to get from 16V down to 12V. (a resistor ??) As i am looking at running 12V lights direct from 16V Track. One of those chip things in the photo above would be good but i cant find them without buffers included.. 

 

Assuming your using DCC ? and 16v is track voltage, these BS 's can be powered directly from the track - as per the instructions

 

The chips are SMD resistors, and are normally supplied in multiples on a strip, there are various sizes/values available - 1206 being the easiest size to work with

 

 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1206-1-Chip-Resistors-SMD-SMT-10R-to-820K-Pack-of-100-RoHS-/360691936654?var=&hash=item53faea2d8e:m:mncHTmrALJD1c1WQZf0NJ2Q

 

HTH

Ken

You may use DCC, AC or DC to power the red lamp.
We recommend 6~12v DC or 9~15v AC. DCC track voltage
is of course acceptable.
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Assuming your using DCC ? and 16v is track voltage, these BS 's can be powered directly from the track - as per the instructions

 

The chips are SMD resistors, and are normally supplied in multiples on a strip, there are various sizes/values available - 1206 being the easiest size to work with

 

 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1206-1-Chip-Resistors-SMD-SMT-10R-to-820K-Pack-of-100-RoHS-/360691936654?var=&hash=item53faea2d8e:m:mncHTmrALJD1c1WQZf0NJ2Q

 

HTH

Ken

You may use DCC, AC or DC to power the red lamp.
We recommend 6~12v DC or 9~15v AC. DCC track voltage
is of course acceptable.

 

Great, Thanks... It has options of "SMT 10R to 820K"

I assume that i need 1K ??

Does a resister go on each of the 2 wires into the light or just one.. ?

Thanks again

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Great, Thanks... It has options of "SMT 10R to 820K"

I assume that i need 1K ??

Does a resister go on each of the 2 wires into the light or just one.. ?

Thanks again

 

All the information you really need is here: https://www.dccconcepts.com/manual/owners-manual-illuminated-buffer-stops/

 

To power them directly from a DCC track - only ONE resistor is required in-line on one of the leads from the lamp - in this case - either lead.  You don't need to reduce the track DCC voltage, with a separate resistor or other means.

If you connect them up to the track and they don't work, swap the wires over.  You MUST have at a resistor in one of the leads, else the LED will blow as soon as it's powered.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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