david.hill64 Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 Sir Frank Ree is in the paint shop, it's a public holiday here in Thailand so on with the next job: the Gladiator Stanier Mogul. First let's see what came in the box: Ho-hum: it looks like I'll either have to rename this thread 'The Heaton Mersey 0-6-0', run it with a 4 wheel tender or acquire another pair of wheels! Never thought to count them when I got the kit. The rest seems fine: And at the customer's request we have some optional parts: Premier rods and motion and MOK self-contained buffers. Geoff Stratford told me that the loco frames in this kit are a tad long, So I'll need to bear that in mind during construction. Not anticipating any other problems though. As usual I'll start with the tender once the mandatory bench clean is over! 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
84B Oxley Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 David You won't (shouldn't !) have any problems with your Mogul, it builds up beautifully into an excellent model. Geoff told me about the problem when I bought the kit but it didn't cause any real hassle. Here's one I made earlier, photographed on Sykes Bridge MPD which I used to be an operator on at shows. Jeff 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 As always, David, will be following your build with interest. I like the simple solutions you come up with to solve problems. Regards, Deano. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted January 3, 2017 Share Posted January 3, 2017 (edited) As always, David, will be following your build with interest. I like the simple solutions you come up with to solve problems. Regards, Deano. Like buying another pair of wheels? Seriously though, so do I. Edit: As regards these MOK buffers, i can't find mention of them on his website...but then, nor can I find his 9F. Edited January 3, 2017 by JeffP Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted January 4, 2017 Author Share Posted January 4, 2017 Like buying another pair of wheels? Seriously though, so do I. Edit: As regards these MOK buffers, i can't find mention of them on his website...but then, nor can I find his 9F. Actually a further inspection showed that there are three sets of pony wheels and no tender wheels, so having discarded the notion of bodging building a 6-6-0T or a 2-6-4T, work will be limited pending collection of three sets of tender wheels at Bristol. The MOK website hasn't been updated recently and doesn't contain the buffers as an item. I think Dave will provide them only if he has stock rather than producing them separately. The site doesn't show the 9F as being available yet, but it is and Santa has kindly provided me with one. It is going to be 92250 (I bought the Giesl chimney and plates for it a long time ago) which I remember as a Horton Road engine in the last weeks of its life in standard 85B livery of intense grime. When I get time to build for myself this will be first in the queue. It will have the Korean wheels and ABC motor-gearbox combo. I am hoping that one of the expert builders who posts on this site will do one first, though being MOK I doubt if there will be any difficulties in construction at all. Right, back to the mogul. To make a start I have embossed all of the rivets on both loco and tender. There are a lot of them to do! I have cut out and cleaned up the larger tender etch parts and checked through the casting bags and all seems in order. I can make a start on the tender bogie but without the wheels will not be able to get too far. I could purloin the wheels from Sir Frank but I don't really want to strip them out unnecessarily and there are enough jobs to be getting on with. I had decided that I am going to attempt to have two jobs on the go at once in an effort to ensure that when disruptions such as this occur I can at least take solace in something else (other than beer). The other job is a Finney West Country, but checking through that last night I realised that there are different versions that can be produced from the same kit (original and rebuilt) and I need a copy of the customer's build spec. This is in the loco box which is currently in Derby.............I have unwrapped the etches and taken a deep breath at the vast number of minuscule etched parts. Anyway this will form the subject of another thread. With the hold up on the tender I will probably change tack and go to the loco frames. Watch this space! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted January 15, 2017 Author Share Posted January 15, 2017 It's been a while since I posted anything on this, largely because I haven't had chance to do anything! A combination of work and getting started on Crediton (separate thread) means that this build took a back seat. Anyway today I was pleased with progress. I took the tender bogie as far as I could before I get the wheels next week. I decided to spring the middle axle with compression spirngs rather than wire. I really need the wheels before I can do any more so it was loco chassis next. Very straightforward so far, just followed the instructions. I checked the axle spacing against the coupling rods. At the client's request thee are the Milled rods from Premier. That's as far as I will go with the chassis until the body has progressed a little. I have already completed the footplate and rear section, but no photos yet. The job will stop now for a week as I am back to UK on Tuesday night for the Bristol show. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 2, 2017 Author Share Posted February 2, 2017 The trip to Bristol let me get the missing wheels for the tender. And here is the footplate under construction. I am pleased to be back at the bench! 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share Posted February 5, 2017 Tender bogie completed: no issues at all. I have used small tube as location for the brake blocks which will allow the brake block/rodding assembly to be removed. The front cranks are not soldered to the frames. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 5, 2017 Author Share Posted February 5, 2017 A couple pf hours at the bench this morning saw the footplate, frames and step assemblies finished (bar cleanup). No issues at all. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted February 5, 2017 Share Posted February 5, 2017 Tender bogie completed: no issues at all. I have used small tube as location for the brake blocks which will allow the brake block/rodding assembly to be removed. The front cranks are not soldered to the frames. 001.JPG 002.JPG 004.JPG Hi David, Looking good. However, the clearance between the wheel treads and the brake blocks looks very small, particularly in the first view of the right hand side of the chassis.Might have been better to cut the front pull rods in the middle and extend their length with a pice of waste etch. That way you could angle the brake hangers slightly to move the blocks back a bit. Just a thought. Also, are the front cranks in the correct position outside of the frames? Should they be inside, as again clearance looks very tight. Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 Hi David, Looking good. However, the clearance between the wheel treads and the brake blocks looks very small, particularly in the first view of the right hand side of the chassis.Might have been better to cut the front pull rods in the middle and extend their length with a pice of waste etch. That way you could angle the brake hangers slightly to move the blocks back a bit. Just a thought. Also, are the front cranks in the correct position outside of the frames? Should they be inside, as again clearance looks very tight. Cheers, Peter Thanks Peter, There is at least half a mm clearance between the blocks and the wheel treads. The only one I worry about is the floating centre axle. So far no issues with this and the chassis rolls freely. If I need more clearance I'll probably file back the block face a little. The front cranks caused some head scratching but the instructions state they are outside of the frames, so that is where they are! It seemed more natural to me that they should be inside. Clearances are tight, but I think the camera angle makes them seem worse than they are. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandy Harper Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Thanks Peter, There is at least half a mm clearance between the blocks and the wheel treads. The only one I worry about is the floating centre axle. So far no issues with this and the chassis rolls freely. If I need more clearance I'll probably file back the block face a little. The front cranks caused some head scratching but the instructions state they are outside of the frames, so that is where they are! It seemed more natural to me that they should be inside. Clearances are tight, but I think the camera angle makes them seem worse than they are. The brake rods normally need a method of 'pulling motion' to make them work. The 'axle', cross shaft, rod would normally be attached to the chassis sides with cranks attached to it and the brake rods attached to the other end of the crank to achieve the pull effect. There should also be a larger crank to transfer the pull from the brake handle on the tender footplate to the 'axle' cross shaft. Having re-read that, does it make sense? Need a drawing really! Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Hello Dave, a few photos of 46202s inner tender frames, I have used some castings from Ragstone Models? or Ambis Engineering? OzzyO. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 (edited) The brake rods normally need a method of 'pulling motion' to make them work. The 'axle', cross shaft, rod would normally be attached to the chassis sides with cranks attached to it and the brake rods attached to the other end of the crank to achieve the pull effect. There should also be a larger crank to transfer the pull from the brake handle on the tender footplate to the 'axle' cross shaft. Having re-read that, does it make sense? Need a drawing really! Sandy I know what you mean! The cross shaft is totally missing from the kit. The frames have a representation of where the ends of the cross shafts would be and I can see that attached to this cross shaft would be a linkage to a brake cylinder (if indeed these tenders were power braked) plus a linkage to the handbrake as is visible in OzzyO's photos. Then from the cross shaft you need the cranks to the pull rods. these are the item fitted but to my mind they are rather puny. They are, however, totally invisible while the model is on the track! The cranks are so small that they will not interfere with the wheels and to my mind have been included only as a means of getting some support to the pull rods. I think there is scope for some kit development but that depends on resolution of some issues that I cannot discuss here. Edited February 6, 2017 by david.hill64 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 6, 2017 Author Share Posted February 6, 2017 Photographed from a different angle shows the brake block clearance: Construction of the body has started. Tank supports first: Followed by rear and sides. The mess on the sides is where the Viakal has darkened the residual solder. With hindsight I think it would have been better to assemble the sides and then glue on the rivet detail later, but I followed the instructions! 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzyo Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Dave, a resistance soldering unit is the tool for that job. Tin the strips down the backs and then some flux and zap away. Then very little solder will show. OzzyO. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAD Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Hi David, A few minutes work with a good old glass fibre scratch brush should shift that. Cheers, Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 Hi Looking great so far, I have a great admiration for people who build up Etch Loco kits, it frightens me to think about all that brass to solder together. Does look amazing though. Keep up the good work.All the bestchris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 7, 2017 Author Share Posted February 7, 2017 Dave, a resistance soldering unit is the tool for that job. Tin the strips down the backs and then some flux and zap away. Then very little solder will show. OzzyO. Yes: totally agree, However, my RSU is in Derby and I am in Bangkok and the leads don't quite stretch that far............... I have thought about bringing it here but it is so heavy and I always wonder about carrying electrical equipment onto the plane. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 Yes: totally agree, However, my RSU is in Derby and I am in Bangkok and the leads don't quite stretch that far............... I have thought about bringing it here but it is so heavy and I always wonder about carrying electrical equipment onto the plane. I certainly wouldn't put it in checked in baggage!! As for carry-on, security varies so much all around the world, the Brits probably being the most pedantic! I do take tools (including scalpels and other sharp objects) but always well wrapped in checked in luggage. A few years ago, a complete DJH 4mm Class4 did draw some attention in my hand luggage though! (Must have something to do in the evenings stuck in a hotel!!) Regards, Deano. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Killybegs Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 A couple of years ago, I took a loco and nine coaches in my hand baggage. A very long queue formed behind me at security as I was made to unbox every item! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshall5 Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 I often carry a kit or even complete locos between the IoM and the USA. The reaction of airport security staff varies considerably, from total disinterest to "everything needs unpacking and separate screening". Once, at Manchester Airport, I had a long conversation with a young Asian security screener who had never seen a loco kit before (it was an old Sevenscale Pug) and wanted to know how to build one. On another occasion, as a brass loco went through the X-ray, all I got was a wink and a 'knowing' smile - a closet modeller perhaps? Mind you all this pales into insignificance compared with a chap who regularly flies to Canada with a 3 1/2" gauge live steam 'Tich' as his hand luggage! The most amusing one I ever had was when, returning from a model engineering show with a couple of small 'ziplok' bags of Easyflo flux in my bag, got stopped by security at Liverpool Airport. Despite being told what it was the charmless individual dutifully removed the bags of white powder and opened one of them. Obviously thinking it was cocaine or some other banned substance he licked his finger and started to dip his digit in the borax based powder. I strongly recommended that he didn't taste it - (anyone who has done this will know exactly what I mean) whereupon he just grunted and moved on to his next victim! Apologies for hijacking your thread David. Ray. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted February 7, 2017 Share Posted February 7, 2017 HAHA!! I've come across many security staff who I wish they would have 'tried' the Borax!! Regards, Deano. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 11, 2017 Author Share Posted February 11, 2017 The tank sides cleaned up quite nicely and I was then able to fit the tank top. What I should have done was assemble the front plate first and then check the length of the tank top as it needed cutting back by half a mm: not so easy when it's soldered in place! The division plate followed and then the beading. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 13, 2017 Author Share Posted February 13, 2017 (edited) Next up were the bracing supports at the back of the division plate. These were a real pain to form: they are constructed from two etched pieces that have to be soldered at right angles with one bent to follow the other and then trimmed. I got there in the end but I am going to see if I can get them replaced by a lost wax casting. As you can see from this photo I attached them by flooding the area next to them with 145 degree solder and didn't get the iron too close to the supports which were formed with 188 solder. The solder is a thin veneer that will clean easily. The coal rails followed and then the bracing supports for them. Not too hard but from teh photos I can see that I need to re-position one bracing piece. Lots of cleaning up to do yet! Edited February 13, 2017 by david.hill64 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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