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Peckett W4 types - weathering, modifying and prototype


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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

I haven't yet dared to make any changes to these marvellous models, but have had a go at a few with the airbrush and/or bristle brush. These, then, fall into the 'weathered' category rather than any other:

 

October 2018

 

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January 2019

 

IMG_7865_Cropped.JPG.d542168f0b2e5b69b70bfb04fcc1424f.JPG

 

April 2020

 

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November 2020

 

IMG_0649_Cropped.jpg.3f4bbbcf71ee82375fa1aa1b6798fb87.jpg

 

 

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4 hours ago, Alister_G said:

 

I'd be really interested in some more detail on how you managed to squeeze a sound chip and speaker into there Dave.

 

Al.

Zimo MX648 with Peckett sound, from Digitrains.

The body casting has an internally threaded part for the front body to frame fixing screw - grind of file this back as far as possible without cutting into the threads.

On the top of the cylinder block is a plastic extension - no idea what it's there for but cut this off.

Cut off the metal lugs that are supposed to hold the standard decoder.

Wiggle the suppressor thing back and forth until it breaks off.

Lop off all spare wires from the decoder and use a razor blade to cut any of the plastic covering that extends further than the actual decoder itself. Do the same at the wires end and also cut the plastic away around the remaining wires so that they can be bent away from the decoder.

With the wires end upward, and the wires facing toward the motor, offer the decoder up so you can estimate the length of the wires that you will need without leaving too much excess to get in the way.

Invert the frames and drill.grind or whatever, the protrusion that would locate the plastic block for the tension lock coupler until the firebox and under-cab space is flat.

Drill two holes in the frame, one either side of the rear mounting screw hole. These are for the speaker wires. You may also have to grind small areas of the inside of the firebox in the body for clearance.

Solder the track and motor wires, tape the speaker wires to the sides of the motor/gearbox using Kapton tape and feed the speaker wires through the holes.

The speaker fits in the firebox and under-cab area in the frames. 12x8x8 sugar cube or a Youchoos Minnow 4. Solder the wires to the speaker and fix in place with a blob of black tack. The Minnow is the better fit as it doesn't show below the frames at all, where the other one shows a couple of millimetres.

Obviously, this doesn't work if you're still using tension locks but, this is an incentive to get with the program and chuck them in the bin, where they belong. Usual checks that nothing's going to cause a short, blah, blah, blah and that;s it - Bob's yer uncle: one sound-fitted Peckett.

There's no space for a stay alive, unless you want to stuff it in the cab and hide all that lovely detail but, providing the pickups are all in good order, these little Pecketts really don't need one.

 



 

 

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  • 1 month later...
  • RMweb Gold

Does anybody know a good paint match for the PLA Peckett? I'm building planet industrials' part date kit, and would like to keep the livery. Also does anyone know of a lining transfer set?

Thanks

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

I can't offer any views of a new Peckett ( yet) but I can offer a new view of one of my existing Pecketts. 

 

Rob. 

 

20210303_210730-02-02.jpeg

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by NHY 581
Comma
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  • 1 month later...

Peckett W4 works number 521 of 1891

 

I'm hoping you good folks in Peckettland may have come across a picture of works number 521.

 

she started life In the docks at Swansea in 1891 working for contractor Christopher Rowland subsequently being sold to Broomhill collieries, Northumberland in 1910. Broomhill sold her (prior to 1922?) to the Weardale Steel Coal and Coke company who rebuilt her at Thornley Colliery (Durham) in 1922 and sent her to work on the Weatherhill and Rookhope and Rookhope and Middlehope Railways in Weardale. She is recorded as working from all 3 sheds on these systems, at Heights quarry, Rookhope and Bolts Law. She was laid up when the system closed in 1923 and she was finally scrapped in 1941, possibly at Thornley Colliery.

 

Due to an extremely low bridge at Rookhope, locomotives on these lines had distinctive cut down cabs, see link below...

 https://www.facebook.com/tanfieldrailway/photos/pcb.10158653625200312/10158653549500312/

 

I doubt she was built with a low cab, but probably ended her life with one similar to the above.

 

So, has anyone seen Peckett 521?

 

Thanks

Duncan

 

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  • 8 months later...
  • RMweb Gold

My peckett representing works no;633 Hilton based in Kent.

 

Uses RT models Manning Wardle parts such as smokebox door and chimney cut down and mounted into the original base to represent the various bodges the loco gained in its life such as Smokebix door and chimney as well as Lost wax brass dome and salter balance valves.

 

Just like the real loco, she gained dumb buffers which also allow me to use my contractors type wagons.

 

DSC_3087_1.JPG.558a8ffacff5f707c93a40495a61d41c.JPG

Edited by RThompson
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  • 2 months later...
1 hour ago, OliverRowley said:

Anyways I can improve let me know!

The positioning of the number and lettering for one thing. It looks very odd. I would have put the letters central on the tank and the number in a smaller size either under the lettering, or on the cabside. Look at prototype photos and although I'm not going to say that you won't find an anomaly, the vast majority that have letters or numbers on the tank will have it centrally placed. An improvement as a Coal Board engine would be to add Division and Area lettering.

 

The part in the video where you talk about thinking of where the crews would be able to clean the locomotive - they would be able to clean all of it. But the crew have either cleaned it or they haven't. They wouldn't polish up a part of the tank and leave thick filth in the areas under the handrails, as you have here. That certainly doesn't fit in with it being a "shed pet".

 

What you should be thinking about is not where they would be able to clean it but when was it last cleaned. Which parts get dirtier than most and which may perhaps not be cleaned at all? The roof, for example wouldn't get much attention. Which parts are clean or even become polished through use? The handrails, edges of cab steps etc. Weathering doesn't have to be in-your-face; it can be subtle.

 

Painting the edges of the tyres on the wheels makes a huge improvement, too. I don't know why so many people leave them in the bare metal. It doesn't matter if you don't get an exact match to the rest of the paint because you can paint the rest of the wheel and if you're then adding weathering no one will be able to tell anyway.

 

Something else to think about, especially considering your back story for the engine, is how old it is. You've got an engine that's been at work in a colliery environment for almost 60 years before it became the "shed pet" and it's still in the original livery and lining. Not likely, is it?

 

There are two parts to weathering - technique and observation. Look at books, such as the Irwell Press Industrial Steam In Colour series, or find photos of industrial steam on Flickr. And when you are looking at these things be sure to see if there's steam coming out of the engine. Just because an engine is a rusty heap, that's slathered in filth, it doesn't mean that it worked like that. Photographers would often take snaps of things that had been out of use for years.

I hope you don't think I'm being harsh but you did ask. Sorry. 😬

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hero, 

Thank you very much- please done apologise I want this kind of response!

I shall update you when I have gone back to it; which I think is one of the joys of this hobby, you can always alter and correct!

 

Also a copy of Industrial Steam in Colour has been purchased- West Midlands too so its where the colliery would have been!

 

Thanks

Oliver

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