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"Huff and Puff" - RMW still working well for me...................


halsey
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  • RMweb Gold

Hi,

 

It has been suggested that my initial topic/thread "RMW works............" (see link below) would now be more properly continued here as the "layout and track design" aspect has been more or less "completed".

 

Please do visit the topic link below to see what my first year produced - loads of fun and a massive learning curve - for those other newcomers amongst you one thing I felt lacked in many posts when I joined RMW in Nov 2015 is any idea of how long it takes to achieve something and some rough idea of cost so FYI - what you see amounts to app 500 hours work and I guess realistically app £1500 excluding the "shed".

 

I think that's enough introduction - there's nothing new to report as such for now save for my agreeing to move the story on and creating this new topic in a new "home".

 

The layout plan attached is pretty much what was finally built except that the marshalling yard is now a station with a "run around loop" and provision for parcels and the "empty space" (left of the operating well) now houses a turntable and engine shed fed by a spur off the parcels siding closest to the operating well edge - see photos on the earlier topic if you are interested.

 

I certainly don't think you could get more operating possibilities and track length in 9*7 without completely compromising scenic concerns.

 

Watch this space!

 

BFN

 

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Edited by halsey
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  • RMweb Gold

Problem - how to cover up an obtrusive double 13amp 3 pin socket .............................

 

Answer - the SuperQuick Railway Hotel kit...............................

 

Build it and finish it completely, then when fully dry and with care, cut 25% off the back with a Dremel cutting disc - don't add the side extension and you'll get 3 low relief buildings all for £6.50!!!

 

I just need some cars for the car park now - is there anything better out there than Oxford die-cast???

 

Result and vfm!

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Edited by halsey
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  • 2 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold

I'm not sure if moving this topic was a good suggestion or whether the content isn't as interesting to others in this environment so I may revert............anyway to continue........................

 

I've just bought my first duff product - a "Craftline" balsa kit of a canal boat very poor quality and very poor vfm - I'm not complaining as such, as it is the first in a long list of unseen purchases so it had to happen, but just thought I'd pass it on.

 

I will post photos of my first attempts at painting my landscape soon - once fully dry and coated with matt/flat varnish - as its come out too shiny!

 

BFN

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It's busier here and easy for things to get lost, not sure whether I'd really be following it if I hadn't picked the story up in the original location, but I'm still enjoying reading about your progress. (Usually I only comment in this forum if I think I've got something interesting/ useful/ amusing to add).

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Like it! As a bit of a "newbie" myself, with just one test-piece 009 diorama behind me, and 50% of my new 00 project to go (which I may blog a bit of) it's always interesting to see what fellow rookies are up to, as well as pick the brains of the experts! :)

 

Here's a thought : Maybe the forum could do with an additional sub-section in Layout Topics for "Novices layouts", so the simpler / less advanced / less tidy efforts of us guys can avoid boring the ones who've seen it all before, and encourage others who might not have all the tricks yet, but may come up with new gems.... like hiding a power socket in a hotel!  :good:

Edited by Huggy
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  • RMweb Gold

Like it! As a bit of a "newbie" myself, with just one test-piece 009 diorama behind me, and 50% of my new 00 project to go (which I may blog a bit of) it's always interesting to see what fellow rookies are up to, as well as pick the brains of the experts! :)

 

Here's a thought : Maybe the forum could do with an additional sub-section in Layout Topics for "Novices layouts", so the simpler / less advanced / less tidy efforts of us guys can avoid boring the ones who've seen it all before, and encourage others who might not have all the tricks yet, but may come up with new gems.... like hiding a power socket in a hotel!  :good:

 

Hi I couldn't agree more but for the fact that of course we want the benefit of the more experienced guys knowledge to help us out (which has been incredibly valuable to me) so I suppose that's the dilemma for the administrators/members.

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Hi I couldn't agree more but for the fact that of course we want the benefit of the more experienced guys knowledge to help us out (which has been incredibly valuable to me) so I suppose that's the dilemma for the administrators/members.

 Yeah, you're probably right, thinking about it. There are quite a lot of sub-sections already. Anyway, will be an interesting layout to follow, lots in a comparatively small space, with some great ideas. Good luck with all that wiring and ballasting mate!!   :O

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  • RMweb Gold

 Yeah, you're probably right, thinking about it. There are quite a lot of sub-sections already. Anyway, will be an interesting layout to follow, lots in a comparatively small space, with some great ideas. Good luck with all that wiring and ballasting mate!!   :O

 

Wiring all done, tested and fully operational with only a couple of initial issues - ballasting may be a long way off as that would show a complete commitment to the layout (as it bu**ers up the track) which possibly isn't there just yet.

 

More wiring details can be found on my other topic thread (see below)

 

BFN

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  • RMweb Gold

I think I was a bit hard on the aforementioned Craftline canal narrowboat kit I don't think its gone too badly - the transfer sheets needed a lot of fettling and one of the balsa printed sheets was very thin and open grained (i.e. not dense/firm) which made cutting and maintaining a good shape a real challenge.

 

Coal load fixing glue finally drying off now so here are 2 completed pictures so you can judge.....................

 

Raining here and pretty miserable so our boating season still feels a long way off ......................some boating friends have just posted some pictures of themselves in Thailand which was really appreciated!

 

All good fun and keeps me out of the "other halfs" way!

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Edited by halsey
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  • RMweb Gold

nice work on the cannal boat,  i made one a few years ago for a small layout i built    not a bad model 

 

 

mark

 

thanks - I always find taking photos a good thing to do as it highlights the overall scene in a way you don't seem to see it in the flesh - consequently I've just spent time "improving/altering" the very obvious felt tip line on the back scene and its now far less obvious and has the correct perspective

 

Just need to sort a wharf side/canal towpath for it to tie up to!

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  • RMweb Gold

Wagon Loads...................

 

I thought I'd pass on a pleasing money saving discovery "found" this morning.

 

I cut up foam based coarse grit sanding pads - very cheap ones 1.5 cm thick from local DIY - and fitted them as coal/gravel ballast - I don't think it looks half bad.

 

I'm sure its been done before but for those of us experimenting "newbies" its worth a try.

 

I played with a few of these and this one was cut very slightly oversized so it squashes and makes a sculptured load

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Edited by halsey
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  • RMweb Gold

It's gratifying/surprising how one building can bring part of a layout to life (£5 spent on eBay and 3 days work) - here is my latest Superquick Kit (Goods Shed) with track adjusted/re-laid to suit and this now provides a link to the canal which has gained some wharf staging.

 

​Next kit is another craftline canal boat, and then a superquick signal box which is a discontinued kit so it doesn't match the other one already in use on the branch entrance - total cost less than £10 for both and another weeks fun!. 

 

BFN

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  • RMweb Gold

Just bought my first weathering/rebranding project.........

 

A brand new Hornby bulk order "LMS" diesel shunter which looks terrible but was cheap and uses all "production" mouldings and mechanicals so I intend to repaint/weather this to model as closely as possible to no 7064 as built by Armstrong Whitworth in 1936 - my late dad worked there at that time so might even have been involved in the project.

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If the Hornby model is the one I think it is, it will be a rebadged 08 - it doesn't quite fit your family connections, but a closer prototype might be the 1944 shunters (no 7120-7131) designed by English Electric and Fairborn - these were precursors to BR's 08s and have many similarities. Unfortunately it doesn't have your Dad's connection.

 

You could go back to 1936 with 7069-7079 which look broadly similar. These were from Hawthorn Leslie and English Electric. Both these and the 1944 versions were direct drive with outside frames (the springs and bearings are outside the wheels as per the 08 - unfortunately something not reproduced on the Hornby Railroad version - the more expensive non-Railroad version gets it right!). Again not Dad.

 

The 1936 Armstrong Whitworth version (7059-7068) had inside frames, as per the Hornby Railroad shunters, but had an uneven wheelbase as they were jack-shaft driven with drive wheels between the centre and rear axles and a drive rod connected to the front wheels. I don't know if there is space, but you might be able to fit a cosmetic small drive wheel between the centre and rear wheel on each side with connecting rods to the front- you won't get the uneven wheelbase of the prototype (you'd need to build your own chassis for that) but you might have something in the spirit of the original, and something with the Dad connection.

 

Btw - assuming you've got a red one you should repaint it black and lose the wasp stripes for the LMS.

Edited by sharris
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  • RMweb Gold

All fully understood and my research produced similar results - though not as detailed !!

 

I am loosely accepting this as being capable of being rebadged 7064 which again loosely achieves the connection.

 

Thanks for the detail - at the end of the day this is a very cheap way of achieving more operational interest.

 

Any "running in", and paint type tips??

 

Surface preparation (this will be a brand new "shell")

 

Also thinking ahead there seem to be a number of "weathering materials" out there - what should I buy to get started is there one "must have product" or set? - I'm NOT into airbrushing.

 

Thanks

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I'm still experimenting with weathering. So far I've got the best results with oil paints (a bit on the shiny side, though), but I'd suggest looking at what the options are (YouTube isn't a bad place to do some research, loads of people want to explain what they do on there), and trying most of them to see what works best for you.

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Just bought my first weathering/rebranding project.........

 

A brand new Hornby bulk order "LMS" diesel shunter which looks terrible but was cheap and uses all "production" mouldings and mechanicals so I intend to repaint/weather this to model as closely as possible to no 7064 as built by Armstrong Whitworth in 1936 - my late dad worked there at that time so might even have been involved in the project.

 

This loco has just arrived and even as delivered it is better than I expected from the photos - the service from "The Island Railway Shop" was fantastic - great price, great service, very quick (free) delivery and fantastic packaging!

 

Now to read up on "running in".............

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Sadly Hornbys 0-6-0 chassis doesn't like Peco SL86/87 curved turnouts!

 

Island Railways were very good and have taken it back with no problems and all costs (incl return postage) refunded.

 

I now need to find an inexpensive alternative.

 

All good fun (not).

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I expect that I am not alone in turning first to those threads already in the 'My Content' list, so it always takes a little time to 'find' a new thread.  It is great to see your layout 'in the flesh', and your enthusiasm for carrying it forward shines through :)

 

For me, a large part of the pleasure lies in setting up scenes and photographing them.  It helps a lot in enabling you to see what is working well, and what needs more attention.  I think your canal scene looks good, and I can see that your canal boat has already found a 'twin'.  This scene shows what a substantial load these boats could carry and the revolution that canals must have made to inland transport, before the railways came and offered much greater speed.

 

I like your 'sandpaper' gravel load.  It's the sort of simple 'cheat' that I like to use on my own layout.   I wonder if you could do a similar thing, to give a more realistic surface to the layout itself - all that plain grey rather takes the edge off the photos.  You could try loose-laying some paper and then try taking some photos, to see how it looks.  Your track, on its cork base, looks fine for now and I can understand your reluctance to tie everything down, with fixed ballast, but there may be a half-way house, to fill in those blank spaces.

 

I was surprised that your Hornby loco didn't like your Y-point, since code 100 rail is usually pretty forgiving.  I've had problems with really old Tri-ang clerestory coaches but a bit of work on the back-to-back setting of the wheels sorted them out.  Sometimes a coupling or some other part can hang too low and catch on the crossing rail.

 

The main problem with an airbrush is cleaning the b---- thing afterwards, but they are great for light washes such as weathering.  You could also 'tone down' the track bed in this way.  One 'weathering' technique I've used is to soak tissue in the gunk from my 'thinners' bottle (after cleaning several brushes) and dab the surfaces of the model with the tissues, then wiping with a dry tissue to get the weather-stained look  It's particularly effective on my white GWR coach roofs.

 

I look forward to seeing many more photos. (and now this thread is in my Content list, I shall look in more often!)

 

Mike

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  • RMweb Gold

I expect that I am not alone in turning first to those threads already in the 'My Content' list, so it always takes a little time to 'find' a new thread.  It is great to see your layout 'in the flesh', and your enthusiasm for carrying it forward shines through :)

 

For me, a large part of the pleasure lies in setting up scenes and photographing them.  It helps a lot in enabling you to see what is working well, and what needs more attention.  I think your canal scene looks good, and I can see that your canal boat has already found a 'twin'.  This scene shows what a substantial load these boats could carry and the revolution that canals must have made to inland transport, before the railways came and offered much greater speed.

 

I like your 'sandpaper' gravel load.  It's the sort of simple 'cheat' that I like to use on my own layout.   I wonder if you could do a similar thing, to give a more realistic surface to the layout itself - all that plain grey rather takes the edge off the photos.  You could try loose-laying some paper and then try taking some photos, to see how it looks.  Your track, on its cork base, looks fine for now and I can understand your reluctance to tie everything down, with fixed ballast, but there may be a half-way house, to fill in those blank spaces.

 

I was surprised that your Hornby loco didn't like your Y-point, since code 100 rail is usually pretty forgiving.  I've had problems with really old Tri-ang clerestory coaches but a bit of work on the back-to-back setting of the wheels sorted them out.  Sometimes a coupling or some other part can hang too low and catch on the crossing rail.

 

The main problem with an airbrush is cleaning the b---- thing afterwards, but they are great for light washes such as weathering.  You could also 'tone down' the track bed in this way.  One 'weathering' technique I've used is to soak tissue in the gunk from my 'thinners' bottle (after cleaning several brushes) and dab the surfaces of the model with the tissues, then wiping with a dry tissue to get the weather-stained look  It's particularly effective on my white GWR coach roofs.

 

I look forward to seeing many more photos. (and now this thread is in my Content list, I shall look in more often!)

 

Mike

Hi Mike,

 

Good to find you again and comments noted

 

It wasn't a "Y" point but 2 large radius curved ones (streamline not set-track) - I have now abandoned that idea for now as the budget has just been spent on a second very well priced Bachmann Jinty which for £32.50 should hopefully be a good buy!

 

Be assured that the grey is truly a work in progress but will probably stay as it is now until next winter (remembering I do other things from April to Oct) as stuff does keep moving about a bit to accommodate real buildings and the necessary placement tweaks (just as with the recent goods shed)

 

You will recall canals are my other passion and I am pleased with the loosely replicated LMS pairing on their brown turgid water - I've just this morning completed the detailed points adding rigging and ropes to the first one.

 

BFN as I've just remembered I've left a loco running post service............

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  • RMweb Gold

I expect that I am not alone in turning first to those threads already in the 'My Content' list, so it always takes a little time to 'find' a new thread.  It is great to see your layout 'in the flesh', and your enthusiasm for carrying it forward shines through :)

 

For me, a large part of the pleasure lies in setting up scenes and photographing them.  It helps a lot in enabling you to see what is working well, and what needs more attention.  I think your canal scene looks good, and I can see that your canal boat has already found a 'twin'.  This scene shows what a substantial load these boats could carry and the revolution that canals must have made to inland transport, before the railways came and offered much greater speed.

 

I like your 'sandpaper' gravel load.  It's the sort of simple 'cheat' that I like to use on my own layout.   I wonder if you could do a similar thing, to give a more realistic surface to the layout itself - all that plain grey rather takes the edge off the photos.  You could try loose-laying some paper and then try taking some photos, to see how it looks.  Your track, on its cork base, looks fine for now and I can understand your reluctance to tie everything down, with fixed ballast, but there may be a half-way house, to fill in those blank spaces.

 

I was surprised that your Hornby loco didn't like your Y-point, since code 100 rail is usually pretty forgiving.  I've had problems with really old Tri-ang clerestory coaches but a bit of work on the back-to-back setting of the wheels sorted them out.  Sometimes a coupling or some other part can hang too low and catch on the crossing rail.

 

The main problem with an airbrush is cleaning the b---- thing afterwards, but they are great for light washes such as weathering.  You could also 'tone down' the track bed in this way.  One 'weathering' technique I've used is to soak tissue in the gunk from my 'thinners' bottle (after cleaning several brushes) and dab the surfaces of the model with the tissues, then wiping with a dry tissue to get the weather-stained look  It's particularly effective on my white GWR coach roofs.

 

I look forward to seeing many more photos. (and now this thread is in my Content list, I shall look in more often!)

 

Mike

 

Like this?..................................

 

post-27634-0-60915000-1486818416_thumb.jpg

 

I guess this is what Andy Y was hinting at as well.............

 

YES I agree staging a photo does help a lot in reviewing ones efforts I've changed quite a lot over time as a result of a photo including track runs with kinks in them so its almost become a standard practice for me in checking out something new

 

J

Edited by halsey
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