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Model Rail/Rapido Trains GER/LNER 'J70' 0-6-0T 'Project Toby'


dibber25
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A plea for help to finish detailing the A to B side of 68222 as in the photo.   I am particularly concerned as to whether there are any 2-3 bolt head strips that have to be applied as well as if a 'patch' or panel has to be applied on the body above the cylinder as was the case on the other side.   Has anyone have a view of this side in its final condition when working W&U or in the docks, please?   Colin.

BR J70 side A to B ends 68222.JPG

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Something I'm planning, which I think will work, I have the intention of taking 2 of the J70's, the LNER Unlined Skirted 7137 and the LNER lined Unskirted 7139 and swapping the skirts and lower part of the chassis over so, the lined model becomes skirted and the Unlined becomes unskirted. I say this mainly as I have no idea if there will be another batch of these models produced so for my W&U Exhibition layout which I am working on I need a variety of loco's all to fit a certain period. This is the best way to do that I think. I'd like to hear other modelers opinions. :)

 

Photo's below are a friends LNER Lined Unskirted J70 7139 and my Skirted and Unlined 7137 with all the fittings bar the windows (that's a future job) 

 

Thank you

IMG_6684.JPG

IMG_6695.JPG

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7 hours ago, coline33 said:

A plea for help to finish detailing the A to B side of 68222 as in the photo.   I am particularly concerned as to whether there are any 2-3 bolt head strips that have to be applied as well as if a 'patch' or panel has to be applied on the body above the cylinder as was the case on the other side.   Has anyone have a view of this side in its final condition when working W&U or in the docks, please?   Colin.

BR J70 side A to B ends 68222.JPG

 

A couple of questions Colin, if I may? When you shortened the skirts, were the steps part of the moulding revealed by the removal? Also, in the picture the spark arrestor looks "see through". Did you modify yours?

Alex

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The steps are part of the chassis casting. The side skirt is a flat plastic moulding with some locating tabs along the top. The spark arrestor is factory-fitted and consists of an etched 'mesh' top and sides - the holes are tiny but in certain circumstances you can probably see through them. (CJL)

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It appears that www.canuteroadquay.com has moved a bit north eastwards towards the fens with a couple of J70s lazily shunting more pictured here  

CDAC6635-349E-4C15-ADAC-AA540AC2447B.jpeg.cc6a177ee670e2af4b641c8fffc3fa38.jpeg63B4302A-9A07-4853-B62D-C9CC515673DD.jpeg.1432af42b8870c242fac984dc0e840f2.jpeg08FE44DD-07E5-4C95-8092-3CBB8D8601E4.jpeg.ea12b0f1306d180c2526a7cddb435ddf.jpeg

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14 hours ago, wiggoforgold said:

 

A couple of questions Colin, if I may? When you shortened the skirts, were the steps part of the moulding revealed by the removal? Also, in the picture the spark arrestor looks "see through". Did you modify yours?

Alex

Alex, the skirt modifications were straight forward sawn cuts just as Chris has explained.   Yes, MR did a superb job with the spark arrestor, one that I could not have done!!!   Colin.   

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I've just taken delivery of my second J70, 68223. I've done a bit of weathering, and here's a picture of it in service on Upwell Drove. I've put more setails of how I did the weatering in the Weathering Painting and transfers section.

DSCF1664.jpg.6152397b8121853c19e9dc514eece82e.jpg

 

Alex

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Anyone else notice their J70 slighty stuttering while running? Mine runs great at all speeds but when just running around at medium speed you can kinda see a tiny stutter, more noticable on the wagons its hauling than the J70 itself.

 

I'm using a Zimo MX617N in it, wonder if it needs more CV tweaks for its coreless motor or even a different decoder.

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The easiest way to remove the end windows is to press the corner of the window outwards with a cocktail stick (or something similar that won't scratch the glazing- see photo below). You don't need to remove the end, although I find it easier to detail the ends separately. The end unclips with a long tab under the roof and three tabs along the lower edge. Release the roof tab first and the end will just lift out. When re-assembling, locate the lower tabs first, then the roof. (CJL)P1220336.JPG.65bdedbb0fed4749f6a4fa5213b7ff9e.JPG. I prefer to take the complete end out - a long tab slots in under the roof and three smaller tags locate along the bottom edge. Release the roof tab first and the end will just lift out - or you can pop out the glazed window without removing the end. Refitting the end, locate the lower tabs first, then the tab under the roof edge. (CJL)

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From last weeks newsletter dated 19th April. I presume she means details such as address or bank details.

 

Quote

There are now about 120 models left on pre-order. If you know yours have changed/expired then please get in contact with us so we can process your order and send it out to you.

 

So maybe time to get in touch if you are still waiting over the next few days.

 

 

Jason

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On 22/04/2019 at 09:32, Kaput said:

Anyone else notice their J70 slighty stuttering while running? Mine runs great at all speeds but when just running around at medium speed you can kinda see a tiny stutter, more noticable on the wagons its hauling than the J70 itself.

 

I'm using a Zimo MX617N in it, wonder if it needs more CV tweaks for its coreless motor or even a different decoder.

Mine is quite strange just running under DC. Even with an hour's running in there is a slight "hunting" at lower speeds; if you crank up the throttle it starts making a lot of gear noise then slightly more throttle it goes silent and takes off like a scalded cat. I have had it apart but can't see anything obvious; I'm suspecting that it's a weird tolerance thing where it's a timing issue with the gears, valve gear and quartering.

 

I'm toying with sending it back but I live in the US so I might try more running in.

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3 hours ago, Salmotrutta said:

Mine is quite strange just running under DC. Even with an hour's running in there is a slight "hunting" at lower speeds; if you crank up the throttle it starts making a lot of gear noise then slightly more throttle it goes silent and takes off like a scalded cat. I have had it apart but can't see anything obvious; I'm suspecting that it's a weird tolerance thing where it's a timing issue with the gears, valve gear and quartering.

 

I'm toying with sending it back but I live in the US so I might try more running in.

I would advise sending it back. It should be smooth and quiet from straight out of the box. (CJL)

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52 minutes ago, dibber25 said:

I would advise sending it back. It should be smooth and quiet from straight out of the box. (CJL) 

 

I've started the ball rolling on sending mine back due to the judder/hestitation and noise, bit of a pity cause its a lovely model.

No response to my query via the website yet but its not been that long since I submitted it.

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8 hours ago, Salmotrutta said:

Mine is quite strange just running under DC. Even with an hour's running in there is a slight "hunting" at lower speeds; if you crank up the throttle it starts making a lot of gear noise then slightly more throttle it goes silent and takes off like a scalded cat. I have had it apart but can't see anything obvious; I'm suspecting that it's a weird tolerance thing where it's a timing issue with the gears, valve gear and quartering.

There's also resonance with whatever 'ripple' is on the DC to consider, the very small inertia of the armature compared to that of an iron core motor makes coreless motors more likely to show such effects. A quick and dirty test: if you can run a battery supply through a variable resistance and run the model through the same speed range and this eliminates these effects, then its the DC controller output interacting with the motor.

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3 hours ago, Kaput said:

 

I've started the ball rolling on sending mine back due to the judder/hestitation and noise, bit of a pity cause its a lovely model.

No response to my query via the website yet but its not been that long since I submitted it.

What query did you make via the website? And which website? (CJL)

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Patience may be a virtue, but I've never claimed to be a saint. I sent a an email enquiry to Kernow MRC before opening time this morning and followed up with a phone call this afternoon. Kevin said they needed my card details again and that as my contact was so late in the day my MR-201 should be despatched on Monday.

I felt that if I had made contact sooner, I would already have my loco.

I suggest if you're still waiting you call Kernow asap.

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I think Kernow are watching this thread as when I mentioned that I had not heard about my order I received a positive response the next morning.

The J70 really is a super model and well worth the wait. It does show up the odd dirty spot on my track work though. 

Bernard

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22 hours ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

There's also resonance with whatever 'ripple' is on the DC to consider, the very small inertia of the armature compared to that of an iron core motor makes coreless motors more likely to show such effects. A quick and dirty test: if you can run a battery supply through a variable resistance and run the model through the same speed range and this eliminates these effects, then its the DC controller output interacting with the motor.

Thanks for that insight; I will try another DC controller as I was using quite a simple one that's on my test layout. I have a feedback controller so I'll try that. Bill at Rapido contacted me as well which shows that Rapido stand behind the quality of their products and their customer's experience. Great company.

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