coline33 Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 Superb movie, Chris. Now how about fitting a smoke unit? All the best Colin. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibber25 Posted May 18, 2020 Author Share Posted May 18, 2020 40 minutes ago, coline33 said: Superb movie, Chris. Now how about fitting a smoke unit? All the best Colin. Thanks. It followed a short session filming it on the wide open spaces of my Canadian layout but it looked very strange although it was a good deal easier to let the loco run. I've never shot movie with my camera before and I've lost the instruction book, so it was done by guesswork, trial and error. I did think that the one thing missing was some smoke. Can't imagine how you'd fit a smoke unit, though, especially with the spark arrestor in the way - and I have a feeling the internal part of the chimney is part of the metal casting and is probably solid. If I'd had more space, I could have shown how it 'coasts' when you take the power off and it continues gradually slowing down without the slowing 'chuffs'. I did discover, though, that pressing the red button over-rides the stay alive and brings the loco to an immediate stop - important when you've only got a 3ft long diorama to work on. (CJL) 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcD Posted May 18, 2020 Share Posted May 18, 2020 This is great news in just finishing som 7mm Y6's so I now will have to have them fitted with sound chips. Smoke generators are something of a mystery to me. Marc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jammy2305 Posted May 25, 2020 Share Posted May 25, 2020 Hi all Without wishing to drag up the discussion about controllers again, would a Gaugemaster Combi be suitable for running a J70. They are not, to my knowledge, a feedback design and thus should be safe to use? Cheers James Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Kaput Posted May 25, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 25, 2020 Combi's are fine for coreless motors - they don't do any fancy feedback or PWM stuff. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomethingTrainLover Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 So I'm looking to add a section of "rope" for the bell, anyone got references, drawings, anything that shows how it was laid out across on the J70s? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcD Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 I have a full set of works GA drawings for both the J70 and Y6 and I can't find a dimension anywhere on the drawings. I have used 0.6mm brass wire for my 7mm Y6 version. Marc 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lu4472ke Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 I've got a J70 which has stripped some of the teeth on one of the gears; my warranty has run out, I've rung Kernow and because it's out of Warranty there's nothing they can do. Does anyone know of a suitable replacement or where I can get one? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salmotrutta Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 2 hours ago, Lu4472ke said: I've got a J70 which has stripped some of the teeth on one of the gears; my warranty has run out, I've rung Kernow and because it's out of Warranty there's nothing they can do. Does anyone know of a suitable replacement or where I can get one? I have a spare chassis which was running poorly and Rapido sent me a replacement. I don't know what the problem was but working on the principle that working poorly is better than not at all you are welcome to have what spares you want from it. I live in the USA so it might be better to just post the gears in rather than send the whole thing. PM me if interested! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lu4472ke Posted June 2, 2020 Share Posted June 2, 2020 5 hours ago, Salmotrutta said: I have a spare chassis which was running poorly and Rapido sent me a replacement. I don't know what the problem was but working on the principle that working poorly is better than not at all you are welcome to have what spares you want from it. I live in the USA so it might be better to just post the gears in rather than send the whole thing. PM me if interested! PM sent Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Gilbert Posted August 3, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 3, 2020 (edited) I've just had this back from Digitrains - no details or weathering yet. Edited August 3, 2020 by Gilbert 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Eddie the dog Posted August 14, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 14, 2020 Can somebody please answer a question for me ? I have a J70 which I am running on dc with a gaugemaster combi controller. The loco unfortunately isn’t that smooth running especially at scale speed. Having no experience of coreless motors , I was wondering whether installing a dcc chip (for use with a Rocco Z21) is likely to improve the running before going to the expense. Much appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold D9020 Nimbus Posted August 14, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 14, 2020 Perhaps your model is faulty, or the wheels or track needs cleaning? No issues with mine—it performs extremely well on the same type of controller. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Eddie the dog Posted August 14, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 14, 2020 Thanks for the quick reply. Second one ,both the same unfortunately. Lovely model just seems to ‘lurch’ at slow speed and noisy when increased ! I’ve cleaned the track, wheels and lightly lubricated. Run in for a couple of hours each direction. Just though it might the controller, the only other one for dc is a set type Bachmann and didn’t want to chance it. With thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkSG Posted August 14, 2020 Share Posted August 14, 2020 Mine have been fine with even a Hornby train set DC controller, which I had to dig out of a box in the garage when my Gaugemaster controller decided to give up the electronic ghost. So if it's happening with two different ones on your layout, I'd be a little inclined to suspect the controller rather than the locos. Might be worth trying a different loco, if you've got one to test. Otherwise, I think they'd be fine with the Bachmann controller anyway. They are reasonably easy to chip, though, so if you're expecting to use them on DCC then you might as well try it. If it doesn't solve the problem then that does at least pin it down to the loco. Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Eddie the dog Posted August 14, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 14, 2020 Thanks, I’ll give it a try. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Graham_Muz Posted November 26, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 26, 2020 For this weekend only as a virtual Warley show offer J70s at £110 each 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gpplumy Posted November 29, 2020 Share Posted November 29, 2020 On 13/04/2020 at 08:44, 47137 said: Please excuse a rather long post out of the blue but I'm a very happy purchaser. I unpacked my MR-204 yesterday. I've taken some photos of it, these are the photos I've been searching for online and failed to find, these are all as the camera sees it without retouching and show the model I received (I have a question at the end!) The chassis is quite tiny; most of the weight of the model is in the body; the motor has a flywheel; the white lump is the loudspeaker; the use of a six-pin decoder socket seems a bit cheap and cheerful when something more modern like Plux would include integrated loudspeaker connections - perhaps size is the limitation: The body shell is a composite construction of metal and plastic; the steps are a part of the body not the chassis: The marketing for the MR-204 is unclear and I felt I was taking a chance on whether cowcatchers are supplied. The advert in Model Rail shows a model with cowcatchers but the web site shows a model without. The narrative is ambiguous, "Replacement cowcatchers with no coupling aperture". Rest assured, the model does not have cowcatchers fitted but the accessory pack includes all four. Fitment is a push fit into holes at each end: On this model, the safety chains are factory-fitted. The factory put too much glue on one at the firebox end and it's not hanging down properly. However, with my eyesight I can only just sense this with my naked eye, I need a photo to see what has happened: At the smokebox end, you can see the end windows are separate parts, ready to be popped out to fit the opened windows: Running is noisy and lumpy on my KPC Kentrol Feedback, quite smooth but difficult to achieve slow running with a Gaugemaster non-feedback controller, and very good indeed ("excellent") with a lash-up using a Zimo 617 on a harness. I've orderd up a Zimo decoder with built-in pins to to install permanently. Now, my question is this. I want to fit the opening windows. The photos in the instruction book show a fair amount of surplus glue dropped onto the model! I don't want to do this and I'd like to take the ends out of the body to fit the new cab windows. Please can someone post instructions on how to dismantle the body and indeed put it back together. So I can lay the ends flat on the bench. Many thanks. - Richard. thank you for the information regarding the ambiguous spares bag Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibber25 Posted November 29, 2020 Author Share Posted November 29, 2020 On 13/04/2020 at 08:44, 47137 said: Please excuse a rather long post out of the blue but I'm a very happy purchaser. I unpacked my MR-204 yesterday. I've taken some photos of it, these are the photos I've been searching for online and failed to find, these are all as the camera sees it without retouching and show the model I received (I have a question at the end!) The chassis is quite tiny; most of the weight of the model is in the body; the motor has a flywheel; the white lump is the loudspeaker; the use of a six-pin decoder socket seems a bit cheap and cheerful when something more modern like Plux would include integrated loudspeaker connections - perhaps size is the limitation: The body shell is a composite construction of metal and plastic; the steps are a part of the body not the chassis: The marketing for the MR-204 is unclear and I felt I was taking a chance on whether cowcatchers are supplied. The advert in Model Rail shows a model with cowcatchers but the web site shows a model without. The narrative is ambiguous, "Replacement cowcatchers with no coupling aperture". Rest assured, the model does not have cowcatchers fitted but the accessory pack includes all four. Fitment is a push fit into holes at each end: On this model, the safety chains are factory-fitted. The factory put too much glue on one at the firebox end and it's not hanging down properly. However, with my eyesight I can only just sense this with my naked eye, I need a photo to see what has happened: At the smokebox end, you can see the end windows are separate parts, ready to be popped out to fit the opened windows: Running is noisy and lumpy on my KPC Kentrol Feedback, quite smooth but difficult to achieve slow running with a Gaugemaster non-feedback controller, and very good indeed ("excellent") with a lash-up using a Zimo 617 on a harness. I've orderd up a Zimo decoder with built-in pins to to install permanently. Now, my question is this. I want to fit the opening windows. The photos in the instruction book show a fair amount of surplus glue dropped onto the model! I don't want to do this and I'd like to take the ends out of the body to fit the new cab windows. Please can someone post instructions on how to dismantle the body and indeed put it back together. So I can lay the ends flat on the bench. Many thanks. - Richard. The J70 uses a coreless motor. It should not be used with a feedback controller. The ends just unclip. (CJL) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSpencer Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 Finally got mine. Indeed very smooth runner. There was one small bit loose in the box which I'll need to figure out where it goes (guess somewhere inside). Quite a small model, makes the sentinel tank next to it look big! 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wainwright1 Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 Any chance they do a new one in early LNER livery with lining and full cow catcher and valences. Surprised they did not do one in the original batch instead of two with lining, but no valences. Ray Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SomethingTrainLover Posted December 1, 2020 Share Posted December 1, 2020 I know a few friends of mine are hoping for a full GER blue one. Be lying if I said I wouldn't pick one up if they made one, very happy with my LNER one(though it isn't LNER anymore), and I believe it was one of the initial variants announced? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jenny Emily Posted December 6, 2020 Share Posted December 6, 2020 I’ve just bought one of these (missed out on the deal by a couple of days - bah humbug!) Amazing weight and really lovely model. Easy to DCC fit though the windows in mine were loose but easy to glue back in. The short wheelbase does find track dirt rather well though. Otherwise I am very pleased with this unusual model. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
coline33 Posted December 8, 2020 Share Posted December 8, 2020 Yes, Jenny, lovely model especially as the windows were separate for fitting in closed or open position as desired. To correctly portray the prototype of one of mine, the window frames could easily be painted white before attaching. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dibber25 Posted December 8, 2020 Author Share Posted December 8, 2020 7 hours ago, coline33 said: Yes, Jenny, lovely model especially as the windows were separate for fitting in closed or open position as desired. To correctly portray the prototype of one of mine, the window frames could easily be painted white before attaching. Was that the one that had one white window frame on one end? (CJL) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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