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Model Rail/Rapido Trains GER/LNER 'J70' 0-6-0T 'Project Toby'


dibber25
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40 minutes ago, coline33 said:

Superb movie, Chris.   Now how about fitting a smoke unit?   All the best Colin.

Thanks. It followed a short session filming it on the wide open spaces of my Canadian layout but it looked very strange although it was a good deal easier to let the loco run. I've never shot movie with my camera before and I've lost the instruction book, so it was done by guesswork, trial and error. I did think that the one thing missing was some smoke. Can't imagine how you'd fit a smoke unit, though, especially with the spark arrestor in the way - and I have a feeling the internal part of the chimney is part of the metal casting and is probably solid. If I'd had more space, I could have shown how it 'coasts' when you take the power off and it continues gradually slowing down without the slowing 'chuffs'. I did discover, though, that pressing the red button over-rides the stay alive and brings the loco to an immediate stop - important when you've only got a 3ft long diorama to work on. (CJL)

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Hi all

 

Without wishing to drag up the discussion about controllers again, would a Gaugemaster Combi be suitable for running a J70. They are not, to my knowledge, a feedback design and thus should be safe to use? 

 

Cheers

 

James

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I have a full set of works GA drawings for both the J70 and Y6 and I can't find a dimension anywhere on the drawings. I have used 0.6mm brass wire for my 7mm Y6 version.

 

Marc  

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I've got a J70 which has stripped some of the teeth on one of the gears; my warranty has run out, I've rung Kernow and because it's out of Warranty there's nothing they can do. Does anyone know of a suitable replacement or where I can get one?

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2 hours ago, Lu4472ke said:

I've got a J70 which has stripped some of the teeth on one of the gears; my warranty has run out, I've rung Kernow and because it's out of Warranty there's nothing they can do. Does anyone know of a suitable replacement or where I can get one?

I have a spare chassis which was running poorly and Rapido sent me a replacement. I don't know what the problem was but working on the principle that working poorly is better than not at all you are welcome to have what spares you want from it. I live in the USA so it might be better to just post the gears in rather than send the whole thing. PM me if interested! 

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5 hours ago, Salmotrutta said:

I have a spare chassis which was running poorly and Rapido sent me a replacement. I don't know what the problem was but working on the principle that working poorly is better than not at all you are welcome to have what spares you want from it. I live in the USA so it might be better to just post the gears in rather than send the whole thing. PM me if interested! 

PM sent

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
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Can somebody please answer a question for me ?

I have a J70 which I am running on dc with a gaugemaster combi controller.

The loco unfortunately isn’t that smooth running especially at scale speed.

Having no experience of coreless motors , I was wondering whether installing a dcc chip (for use with a

Rocco Z21) is likely to improve the running before going to the expense.

Much appreciated.

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Thanks for the quick reply.

Second one ,both the same unfortunately.

Lovely model just seems to ‘lurch’ at slow speed and noisy when increased !

I’ve cleaned the track, wheels and lightly lubricated.

Run in for a couple of hours each direction.

Just though it might the controller, the only other one for dc is a set type Bachmann and didn’t want to chance it.

With thanks.

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Mine have been fine with even a Hornby train set DC controller, which I had to dig out of a box in the garage when my Gaugemaster controller decided to give up the electronic ghost. So if it's happening with two different ones on your layout, I'd be a little inclined to suspect the controller rather than the locos. Might be worth trying a different loco, if you've got one to test. Otherwise, I think they'd be fine with the Bachmann controller anyway.

 

They are reasonably easy to chip, though, so if you're expecting to use them on DCC then you might as well try it. If it doesn't solve the problem then that does at least pin it down to the loco.

 

Mark

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  • 3 months later...
On 13/04/2020 at 08:44, 47137 said:

Please excuse a rather long post out of the blue but I'm a very happy purchaser.

 

I unpacked my MR-204 yesterday. I've taken some photos of it, these are the photos I've been searching for online and failed to find, these are all as the camera sees it without retouching and show the model I received (I have a question at the end!)

 

The chassis is quite tiny; most of the weight of the model is in the body; the motor has a flywheel; the white lump is the loudspeaker; the use of a six-pin decoder socket seems a bit cheap and cheerful when something more modern like Plux would include integrated loudspeaker connections - perhaps size is the limitation:

DSCF0352.jpg.c30bfe7c30d881e45465058824ad4968.jpg

 

The body shell is a composite construction of metal and plastic; the steps are a part of the body not the chassis:

DSCF0354.jpg.9f87bdb09e09a565e13ecaa0df37e281.jpg

 

The marketing for the MR-204 is unclear and I felt I was taking a chance on whether cowcatchers are supplied. The advert in Model Rail shows a model with cowcatchers but the web site shows a model without. The narrative is ambiguous, "Replacement cowcatchers with no coupling aperture". Rest assured, the model does not have cowcatchers fitted but the accessory pack includes all four. Fitment is a push fit into holes at each end:

DSCF0356.jpg.315e483751a07a325644a5204245a02a.jpg

 

On this model, the safety chains are factory-fitted. The factory put too much glue on one at the firebox end and it's not hanging down properly. However, with my eyesight I can only just sense this with my naked eye, I need a photo to see what has happened:

DSCF0357.jpg.51f2efbcdce8e2cd07c73ba17d3d024f.jpg

 

 

At the smokebox end, you can see the end windows are separate parts, ready to be popped out to fit the opened windows:

DSCF0365.jpg.a2a1e02380d8f5efb09bc6c535e2a6db.jpg

 

 

Running is noisy and lumpy on my KPC Kentrol Feedback, quite smooth but difficult to achieve slow running with a Gaugemaster non-feedback controller, and very good indeed ("excellent") with a lash-up using a Zimo 617 on a harness. I've orderd up a Zimo decoder with built-in pins to to install permanently.

 

Now, my question is this. I want to fit the opening windows. The photos in the instruction book show a fair amount of surplus glue dropped onto the model! I don't want to do this and I'd like to take the ends out of the body to fit the new cab windows. Please can someone post instructions on how to dismantle the body and indeed put it back together. So I can lay the ends flat on the bench. Many thanks.

 

- Richard.

 

 

 

thank you for the information regarding the ambiguous spares bag 

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On 13/04/2020 at 08:44, 47137 said:

Please excuse a rather long post out of the blue but I'm a very happy purchaser.

 

I unpacked my MR-204 yesterday. I've taken some photos of it, these are the photos I've been searching for online and failed to find, these are all as the camera sees it without retouching and show the model I received (I have a question at the end!)

 

The chassis is quite tiny; most of the weight of the model is in the body; the motor has a flywheel; the white lump is the loudspeaker; the use of a six-pin decoder socket seems a bit cheap and cheerful when something more modern like Plux would include integrated loudspeaker connections - perhaps size is the limitation:

DSCF0352.jpg.c30bfe7c30d881e45465058824ad4968.jpg

 

The body shell is a composite construction of metal and plastic; the steps are a part of the body not the chassis:

DSCF0354.jpg.9f87bdb09e09a565e13ecaa0df37e281.jpg

 

The marketing for the MR-204 is unclear and I felt I was taking a chance on whether cowcatchers are supplied. The advert in Model Rail shows a model with cowcatchers but the web site shows a model without. The narrative is ambiguous, "Replacement cowcatchers with no coupling aperture". Rest assured, the model does not have cowcatchers fitted but the accessory pack includes all four. Fitment is a push fit into holes at each end:

DSCF0356.jpg.315e483751a07a325644a5204245a02a.jpg

 

On this model, the safety chains are factory-fitted. The factory put too much glue on one at the firebox end and it's not hanging down properly. However, with my eyesight I can only just sense this with my naked eye, I need a photo to see what has happened:

DSCF0357.jpg.51f2efbcdce8e2cd07c73ba17d3d024f.jpg

 

 

At the smokebox end, you can see the end windows are separate parts, ready to be popped out to fit the opened windows:

DSCF0365.jpg.a2a1e02380d8f5efb09bc6c535e2a6db.jpg

 

 

Running is noisy and lumpy on my KPC Kentrol Feedback, quite smooth but difficult to achieve slow running with a Gaugemaster non-feedback controller, and very good indeed ("excellent") with a lash-up using a Zimo 617 on a harness. I've orderd up a Zimo decoder with built-in pins to to install permanently.

 

Now, my question is this. I want to fit the opening windows. The photos in the instruction book show a fair amount of surplus glue dropped onto the model! I don't want to do this and I'd like to take the ends out of the body to fit the new cab windows. Please can someone post instructions on how to dismantle the body and indeed put it back together. So I can lay the ends flat on the bench. Many thanks.

 

- Richard.

 

The J70 uses a coreless motor. It should not be used with a feedback controller. The ends just unclip. (CJL)

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Finally got mine. Indeed very smooth runner. There was one small bit loose in the box which I'll need to figure out where it goes (guess somewhere inside).

Quite a small model, makes the sentinel tank next to it look big!

 

 

toby1.jpg

Toby2.jpg

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I’ve just bought one of these (missed out on the deal by a couple of days - bah humbug!) 

 

Amazing weight and really lovely model. Easy to DCC fit though the windows in mine were loose but easy to glue back in. The short wheelbase does find track dirt rather well though. Otherwise I am very pleased with this unusual model. 

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7 hours ago, coline33 said:

Yes, Jenny, lovely model especially as the windows were separate for fitting in closed or open position as desired.   To correctly portray the prototype of one of mine, the window frames could easily be painted white before attaching.   

Was that the one that had one white window frame on one end? (CJL)

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