Bachmann Rep Limited Editions

[DRS Crewe On A Mission]

21 minutes ago, JohnC said:

Hi Danny

I have renumbered and removed names on a few locos now and just completed removing the construction branding on the latest Hornby class 60.

In all cases, I used a cotton bud with liquid Brasso and found that gentle rubbing soon gets rid of the printed detail leaving a polished area of the body main colour.

The polished area is perfect for applying replacement decals and, when dry, I give a quick airbrush pass with the matching varnish of the rest of the loco.

Regards

John

 

Thank you very much for the reply and the information John. It's greatly appreciated. 

 

I have never used liquid Brasso, so I'm pleased that you have mentioned this. It's definitely something to look at because I really do like renumbering locos especially DRS and Colas locos. 

 

Thanks again for the help. 

 

Kind Regards, 

 

Danny. 

 

4 minutes ago, rob D2 said:

That’s interesting as Hornby are sometimes tricky to get the sector stuff off before the grey goes through to primer.

ill remember  brass o as Tcut has been a disaster with Hornby for me, great for Bachmann though 

 

I have heard too that some people struggle with removing Hornby decals. I have never tried to renumber or rename any Hornby model, so I don't have any knowledge or experience in this area, but it does seem to be a common theme. 

 

Kind Regards, 

 

Danny. 

[rob D2]

4 minutes ago, DRS Crewe On A Mission said:

 

Thank you very much for the reply and the information John. It's greatly appreciated. 

 

I have never used liquid Brasso, so I'm pleased that you have mentioned this. It's definitely something to look at because I really do like renumbering locos especially DRS and Colas locos. 

 

Thanks again for the help. 

 

Kind Regards, 

 

Danny. 

 

 

I have heard too that some people struggle with removing Hornby decals. I have never tried to renumber or rename any Hornby model, so I don't have any knowledge or experience in this area, but it does seem to be a common theme. 

 

Kind Regards, 

 

Danny. 

That sinking feeling when the grey line between sectors becomes a wavy one . 
 

there’s no consistency between Bachmann either . Newer sector decals have come off easily with enamel thinner , older trans rail on 37672 wouldn’t move and Tcut was a disaster .

 

As one of my main interests is renumbering , re badging ( and shortly , god help me, a full respray) I keep a mental database of what works with what 

[PM47079]

I thought I would “just remove” the sector decals on my Heljan 47361 went through the dark grey at the top and took off too much the bottom as well. Sector labels are the bit I always mess up

[DRS Crewe On A Mission]

17 hours ago, rob D2 said:

That sinking feeling when the grey line between sectors becomes a wavy one . 
 

there’s no consistency between Bachmann either . Newer sector decals have come off easily with enamel thinner , older trans rail on 37672 wouldn’t move and Tcut was a disaster .

 

As one of my main interests is renumbering , re badging ( and shortly , god help me, a full respray) I keep a mental database of what works with what 

 

12 hours ago, PM47079 said:

I thought I would “just remove” the sector decals on my Heljan 47361 went through the dark grey at the top and took off too much the bottom as well. Sector labels are the bit I always mess up

 

It most certainly is an interesting topic to follow regarding which models/manufacturers can have their decals (logos, numbers and names) easily removed and the ones which are more difficult to remove. Their really isn't any consistency between different manufacturers and models as to what can be achieved relatively easily and what can't. I have to say I was fortunate with the Bachmann DRS 37/4s that I have renumbered because they were relatively easy to remove with a bit of pressure from a cocktail stick. They were my first and only renumbers so far, and because my first experience was positive and painless I decided to buy some further DRS and Colas 37s to renumber that were on sale a few years ago at a cheap price. So it has paid off in the respect too, that I now have the ability and confidence to add further locos via renumbering to the fleet. As you say though going into larger decals and logos can be even more difficult especially on some models. 

 

Thank you. 

 

Kind Regards, 

 

Danny. 

[James Makin]

On 10/10/2020 at 04:27, DRS Crewe On A Mission said:

 

Hi James, 

 

Thank you very much for the reply, the information and the help. I really appreciate it. 

 

Out of interest which thinners and Matt Varnish have you used and would you recommend? I have renumbered a few locos before, but I haven't attempted to remove nameplates before. 

 

Thank you in advance. 

 

Kind Regards, 

 

Danny. 

Hi Danny,

 

I’ve generally had the most luck using Humbrol enamel thinners to shift printing and when it comes to varnishes it can be hit & miss but generally either Humbrol or Railmatch varnishes in aerosol cans, just to save time firing up the airbrush! 
 

I think the final coat of matt varnish just helps give a better finish to any RTR loco, not to mention it covers a multitude of sins including hand painted patch repairs and so on..! 

 

I’ve got a Workbench thread rumbling away on here , currently standing at 51 pages of wrecking various locos, wagons, units and road vehicles over the years!

 

 

Cheers,

James

[37501]

I agree with James, the Railmatch aerosol varnish is a great time saver as I have found that any type of varnish clogs up the airbrush.

i have just finished rebuilding a Hornby yellow breakdown crane and applied Railtec decals to the jib. An all over coat of gloss varnish was sprayed on prior to applying the decals. These were given a few days to dry before spraying on satin varnish. No visible backing film. Further toning down was achieved using an airbrushed waft of Railmatch frame dirt.

 

John

[ba14eagle]

I don't use Humbrol varnish anymore - turns stuff white. The Japanese varnish (cant remember brand but I think its featured in ModelRail mag recently) works well.

[rob D2]

20 minutes ago, ba14eagle said:

I don't use Humbrol varnish anymore - turns stuff white. The Japanese varnish (cant remember brand but I think its featured in ModelRail mag recently) works well.

I normally find it’s ok up to about three coats....after that the faded look kicks in !

[DRS Crewe On A Mission]

Thank you for the replies everyone and all of the help. 

 

As always their is excellent help and advice from RMWeb members and it has been duly noted for reference in the future when I renumber and remove/rename further locos. I will definitely have a look at your thread James, you really have been busy. Excellent work, keep it up, and keep the updates coming for us!

 

Thanks again. 

 

Kind Regards, 

 

Danny.