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Kylestrome’s 4mm Workbench


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No4-1.jpg.6e3f686a16acf850883e60e470d2c175.jpg

 

As you can see from the photo above, I’ve finally managed to get SMDL No.4 finished. I drew the artwork for the transfers and had them made by Precision Decals. This is the first time I’ve had custom transfers done and I’m really impressed with the quality and their service. As I did not have especially good reference photos, there was a certain amount of guesswork and botch involved but I’m quite pleased with the result. As luck would have it (isn’t it always the way!) I came across another photo, after I’d finished, which shows that there should be dots between the letters ‘SDSP’ and curved brackets around ‘CARRON’. Oh, well ...

 

 

No4-2.jpg.12aa40c9583a562ee002e895c3a545c2.jpg

 

No4-3.jpg.6f6a2ed077547e47982bf681e143a72d.jpg

 

 

Min_Open.jpg.f84113650eb16a87288c2d23929a6730.jpg

These two are nearing completion but I’m much more into constructing things, at the moment, than finishing them.

 

David

Edited by Kylestrome
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What do you do when you’re having difficulty finishing off on-going projects? You start a whole load more, that’s what!

 

Wagons.jpg.fe97dc7ddfac036decd3eef27ccb3d2f.jpg

On the workbench at the moment are a Lima ‘Whisky’ grain Hopper for ‘finescaling’, a Bachman OCA for re-wheeling and re-painting and Bogie Bolster E, SPA and OTA kits.

 

Turbot-1.jpg.b1dcdaff732b2123c48a0f3491331df8.jpg

 

Turbot-2.jpg.ce11c99640529ed70ad67cfa65c58e6f.jpg

 

The SPA and OTA are just straightforward Cambrian kit-builds, so there’s nothing special about them. The Bogie Bolster E is being reverse engineered from a Cambrian Turbot kit mainly because I already have the Dapol Turbot, but also just to be awkward.

 

 

Whisky-Hopper-1.jpg.8410349ec61b197f85e26c4a8f744fb0.jpg

 

Whisky-Hopper-2.jpg.2eed8f2fe22c82faca628204c4f326c0.jpg

 Whisky-Hopper-3.jpg.7b871cb7499a6337a91f0162131a32ef.jpg

 

The Lima Whisky hopper was a recent impulse buy (I blame @Signaller69 for that) and was going to receive Cambrian pedestal suspension, which would have put it somewhat ahead of my main operating period of 1968/9. Having discovered a 1967 photo of this style of hopper wagon with leaf spring suspension, in the ‘Backtrack’ article, I decided to make life difficult for myself by modelling it from scratch. What you see in the photo above is the ‘feasibility study’ which I now have to repeat 7 times (I have 2 of the Lima wagons).

 

David

Edited by Kylestrome
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David,

 

Some questions if I may?

Are the springs handbuilt or castings?

What glue have you used for brass to the Lima plastic; I've had the devil's own job of getting something to bond durably?

Who's W Irons?

 

Thanks in advance.

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1 minute ago, leopardml2341 said:

Are the springs handbuilt or castings?

 

Handbuilt from styrene sheet but with Wizard Models '51L' roller bearing castings.

 

3 minutes ago, leopardml2341 said:

What glue have you used for brass to the Lima plastic; I've had the devil's own job of getting something to bond durably?

 

Slow setting 2-part epoxy resin (German equivalent of Araldite).

 

4 minutes ago, leopardml2341 said:

Who's W Irons?

 

Comet Models, which I just happened to have to hand.

 

HTH,

David

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On 26/05/2020 at 14:29, Kylestrome said:

No4-1.jpg.6e3f686a16acf850883e60e470d2c175.jpg

 

As you can see from the photo above, I’ve finally managed to get SMDL No.4 finished. I drew the artwork for the transfers and had them made by Precision Decals. This is the first time I’ve had custom transfers done and I’m really impressed with the quality and their service. As I did not have especially good reference photos, there was a certain amount of guesswork and botch involved but I’m quite pleased with the result. As luck would have it (isn’t it always the way!) I came across another photo, after I’d finished, which shows that there should be dots between the letters ‘SDSP’ and curved brackets around ‘CARRON’. Oh, well ...

 

 

No4-2.jpg.12aa40c9583a562ee002e895c3a545c2.jpg

 

No4-3.jpg.6f6a2ed077547e47982bf681e143a72d.jpg

 

 

Min_Open.jpg.f84113650eb16a87288c2d23929a6730.jpg

These two are nearing completion but I’m much more into constructing things, at the moment, than finishing them.

 

David

Hi David,

Superb workmanship as always. The SMD Tank in particular looks fantastic, the end ladder and red/brown livery really makes it look different to other types. 

 

Looking forward to seeing your BRTE hopper (with apologies for piquing your interest! They are indeed an interesting subject in themselves.) I've never seen a photo of one of the Powell Duffryn batch with the earlier suspension,  presumably as they were so short lived with that arrangement (c.1967-70), so it will be an interesting variation. By way of taking the opposite direction, I have a couple of earlier batch wagons waiting to be fitted with Pedestal units as c.1971, although they won't be up to your fantastic level of detailing I have to admit!

 

Martyn.

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As with most of my projects, these Lima ‘Whisky’ hoppers were started with a burst of enthusiastic activity which then ground to halt when I hit a slight difficulty. The problem here was trying to find decent reference material for the whisky advertisement boards and a suitable way of producing them to a reasonable standard. Most of what I could find to work with was of low resolution and my ink-jet prints were not sufficiently sharp. As a search for suitable transfers drew a blank, I decided to modify the wagons to their later, boardless state.

 

Whisky-1.jpg.7fdfa77b0e7ea31976b9dabbcc96fa54.jpg

Because LIma, in their wisdom, moulded the boards as part of the sides I was forced into practicing the ancient and honourable art of chain-drillng to remove the offending panels. I also had to remove some of the internal chamber that contains the weight so that I could more easily use files and sanding sticks.

 

Whisky-4.jpg.812ebb1e3949cb3768c8af3bea481fc4.jpg

The job of fitting replacement panels was a lot easier than I was expecting, and I managed to finish the whole process in less than a days modelling.

 

Whisky-5.jpg.6182cd509e723b624104fa0ef2ba89f2.jpg

I couldn’t face doing a second hopper with leaf springs so I opted to use some Cambrian pedestal suspension units instead. I realise that I will now have wagons (four altogether) that will be out of period with each other but I’m not going to loose any sleep over it.

 

Whisky-2.jpg.9822cd642a10d6b95cec3a96f176801b.jpg

Under gubbins

 

Whisky-3.jpg.ac9a8ea717e0b4ced5f85171d1125d68.jpg

More of the same

 

Whisky-7.jpg.d60f87f87d7fae769bf9858d2832ae79.jpg

The body is not yet glued to the chassis, which is fortunate because it's the wrong way round!

 

Whisky-6.jpg.dc1f80da4a24a7f26c24062288b3d1d6.jpg

There's only the painting to do now plus transfers and couplings

 

David

Edited by Kylestrome
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I've enjoyed this and the layout thread, my period and region! I searched the web for Presflo pictures and unless I'm missing something, couldn't find any relating to Alumina traffic, certainly not Paul Bartlett's . Modelmaster MM4644 sheet is in the post as I type which I hope is the correct sheet. This is the best/only picture I've found so far class 20 8092 at Fort William 1971 https://www.rail-online.co.uk/p321813950 but doesn't help much regarding running numbers etc. Where did you get the info from?

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Bogie-Bolster-E-4.jpg.30a7df5cf141bb57ceea26e0181a4684.jpg

 

Although I have not updated this thread for a while, the wagon fleet for Kinlochmore is steadily being added to. At the moment, I have about 25 wagons at various stages of completion. One of these is the Bogie Bolster E, that started of as a Cambrian Turbot kit, which just requires painting and detailing with chains and shackles.

 

Bogie-Bolster-E-1.jpg.428260fe59a373edb4ac2f8395de946d.jpg

 

Bogie-Bolster-E-2.jpg.aef39d59185daa7edf6361e58eef6463.jpg

The load consists of Evergreen ‘H’ section strips with lead weights concealed inside. The load securing rings are twisted 10 amp fuse wire.

 

Bogie-Bolster-E-3.jpg.11ffe6a012c750c64029aad3f9158895.jpg

An underside view showing the two screws I use to stabilize one bogie to prevent wobble. Buffers made on the lathe and an extra wide loop for the Dingham coupling.

 

The next stage is painting (obviously) but I'm not sure what colour to paint the steel girders. I'm assuming they would be used in the construction industry, so would they be painted or primed in some way? I still need to do some research.

 

David

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  • Kylestrome changed the title to Kylestrome’s 4mm Workbench – Wagons, and more wagons
2 hours ago, Kylestrome said:

Bogie-Bolster-E-4.jpg.7420d6e7df051c11eeff092e6e2287da.jpg

 

Although I have not updated this thread for a while, the wagon fleet for Kinlochmore is steadily being added to. At the moment, I have about 25 wagons at various stages of completion. One of these is the Bogie Bolster E, that started of as a Cambrian Turbot kit, which just requires painting and detailing with chains and shackles.

 

Bogie-Bolster-E-1.jpg.f7a28ae56d3a2b0ce6ff7b6810ece50c.jpg

 

Bogie-Bolster-E-2.jpg.bbe3bccab535ff04dbc8d6543907633e.jpg

The load consists of Evergreen ‘H’ section strips with lead weights concealed inside. The load securing rings are twisted 10 amp fuse wire.

 

Bogie-Bolster-E-3.jpg.a8e229a2a233a500bb204b117b42b211.jpg

An underside view showing the two screws I use to stabilize one bogie to prevent wobble. Buffers made on the lathe and an extra wide loop for the Dingham coupling.

 

The next stage is painting (obviously) but I'm not sure what colour to paint the steel girders. I'm assuming they would be used in the construction industry, so would they be painted or primed in some way? I still need to do some research.

 

David

The load would be a dark grey, possibly with a little superficial rust. Each would have some chalk markings on them, indicating batch number etc. If they were being shipped abroad, they'd oftem have the vessel name marked as well.

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10 hours ago, 2mm Andy said:

Paul Bartlett has some nice photos of similar loads on bogie bolster D wagons;

 

Thanks for those links, Andy.

 

I've also found this one, which shows Fat Controller's points very well:

https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brbogiebolsterddavis/h3431000f#h25ed248d

 

David

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My first encounter with a Cambrian ballast wagon kit did not end well. When I pulverised my almost completed Dogfish with a hammer, I considered it an act of kindness to end its suffering. It had already undergone several tweaks to somehow make it square and sturdy, but when the final pieces couldn’t be fitted any near where they were supposed to go, I reached the tipping point where anger overcame patience. Still, the experience taught me a lot and I was determined to approach the Catfish in a totally different way namely, as an aid to scratch-building.

 

Catfish-3.jpg.0d793025fc72751e2225e015d4a91e5b.jpg

The main problem with these kits, as I’m sure many of you already know, is that the chassis sub-frame is moulded with angles where there should be right angles, presumably to aid mould release. This makes accurate assembly of the side frames and headstocks nigh-on impossible and extremely weak at best. To overcome this problem I have resorted to using Evergreen 2mm x 3.2mm polystyrene strip to replace the kit’s internal chassis frame.

 

Catfish-1.jpg.9f41b64305c14ab90fbbd2e027ed2f26.jpg

 

Catfish-2.jpg.a64899ba66bf6057f67256971d88bc9f.jpg

In the end, only the solebars, headstocks, hopper and a couple of the stanchion pieces were used from the kit. Assorted wire, metal T-section and polystyrene strip has replaced the rest as well as etched operating wheels from Stenson Models and an Airfix tank wagon vacuum cylinder.

 

Catfish-4.jpg.030265d7a531bc7fa4be94b4317ffef5.jpg

This view shows up the subtle kink I had to put in the top handrail in order to get things lined up as best I could. In the the hopper there's a load of steel balls for extra weight. After painting, these will be covered by ballast.

 

Now, I’m quite looking forward to getting to grips with a mermaid ... :unsure:

 

David

Edited by Kylestrome
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Just come across this thread. Fantastic work throughout!

 

The scratchbuilt tank underframe and springs for the grain wagons are very nice. Thanks for detailing your approach to P4'ing the Dapol Turbot too. I've got a few that will be needing this treatment.

 

Cheers,

 

Liam

 

 

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Really nice work David! I must say the quality of your detailing on the wagons is staggering. A quick question if I may, have you modified the latch on top of the hook on the Dingham on the right of the last photo? If so would you be able to describe what you’ve done please? It looks much nicer than the out of the pack version!

 

Thanks in advance, keep up the superb work!

 

Will

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2 hours ago, Southwich said:

have you modified the latch on top of the hook on the Dingham

 

Nope. There are two types of latch on the etch. I use the one, with a hole at both ends, which you bend round and fill with solder. I prefer these because the solder adds a little bit of weight to help it drop onto the hook.

 

David

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13 hours ago, Kylestrome said:

My first encounter with a Cambrian ballast wagon kit did not end well. When I pulverised my almost completed Dogfish with a hammer, I considered it an act of kindness to end its suffering. It had already undergone several tweaks to somehow make it square and sturdy, but when the final pieces couldn’t be fitted any near where they were supposed to go, I reached the tipping point where anger overcame patience. Still, the experience taught me a lot and I was determined to approach the Catfish in a totally different way namely, as an aid to scratch-building.

 

Catfish-3.jpg.1f4efcc200700eb03ca60d70107ed016.jpg

The main problem with these kits, as I’m sure many of you already know, is that the chassis sub-frame is moulded with angles where there should be right angles, presumably to aid mould release. This makes accurate assembly of the side frames and headstocks nigh-on impossible and extremely weak at best. To overcome this problem I have resorted to using Evergreen 2mm x 3.2mm polystyrene strip to replace the kit’s internal chassis frame.

 

Catfish-1.jpg.187cd728e6d276409504a9d1db06fcfe.jpg

 

Catfish-2.jpg.628cae6a361d8f8bf22186a8827d0dc8.jpg

In the end, only the solebars, headstocks, hopper and a couple of the stanchion pieces were used from the kit. Assorted wire, metal T-section and polystyrene strip has replaced the rest as well as etched operating wheels from Stenson Models and an Airfix tank wagon vacuum cylinder.

 

Catfish-4.jpg.b483bdc422fb82e7a894f832df2a13d3.jpg

This view shows up the subtle kink I had to put in the top handrail in order to get things lined up as best I could. In the the hopper there's a load of steel balls for extra weight. After painting, these will be covered by ballast.

 

Now, I’m quite looking forward to getting to grips with a mermaid ... :unsure:

 

David

 

Very nice, David - I've never bothered to replace the steps on mine, perhaps I should? I agree that the key bits of the Cambrian kit are usable, but there are improvements to make in some of the details. One thing, however, is that because Colin Parks designed the operators' platform to fit inside the solebars, the ends of the safety rail are too far away from the outer edge of the solebar. It should be right to the edge per this picture:

https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/brcatfishzev/e172cfd16

 

From what I remember of building a Mermaid, I abandoned the headstock/solebar locations and built up some of the stringers as well as putting some laminates of 60 thou' sheet behind the coupling. What I'd do were I to make another (possible) I'd solvent-weld an oblong of 60 thou' in there to keep things square. See below for what I did:

 

Cambrian_Mermaid_001.gif.cce3c9c298a30ab54e7cf47d4f3437f1.gif

 

An below for what I was thinking of - if the plastic sheet was level with the bottom of the solebar it will be more or less invisible:

 

Possible_Mod.gif.b7a6e87ca05a39620265524c90a8c0b6.gif

 

Adam

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Another point to watch for when numbering is that for the first three lots the 'W' irons have only the one small hole as per the kit whilst for the final three lots there are two.

 

Lot 2682               DB992531 - 992590           1 Hole

Lot 2683               DB992591 - 992650           1 Hole

Lot 2775               DB992651 - 992710           1 Hole

Lot 2929               DB993508 - 993566           2 Hole

Lot 3039               DB983376 - 983576           2 Hole

Lot 3331               DB983627 - 983896           2 Hole

 

I've recently dug out my six Catfish kits so am looking on with interest.....

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58 minutes ago, Adam said:

the ends of the safety rail are too far away from the outer edge of the solebar.

 

That's almost impossible to avoid, if you are replacing them with wire, because you have to drill the holes so close to the edge of the headstocks. I you keep the top rail straight you end up with the verticals being at an angle. It's one of those compromises we small scale modellers have to live with.

 

I've seen your Mermaid and have taken notes.  :paint:

 

David

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4 minutes ago, Kylestrome said:

 

That's almost impossible to avoid, if you are replacing them with wire, because you have to drill the holes so close to the edge of the headstocks. I you keep the top rail straight you end up with the verticals being at an angle. It's one of those compromises we small scale modellers have to live with.

 

I've seen you Mermaid and have taken notes.  :paint:

 

David

 

It's a compromise I wasn't happy to live with (much more noticeable then the steps, I think) and, as it happens, it's not that difficult. You an see that I added a 5 thou' overlay with superglue to represent the decking. The protruding headstock ends are something Geoff Kent did and where the master leads...

 

Dogfish_012.gif.929189cbc81df4d2203705746b8a5de1.gif

 

I think I've done four now (spread over twenty years - my second ever plastic kit was one of these: it eventually fell apart and it's since been rebuilt. I knew how to pick 'em) and they get easier.

 

Adam

 

 

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Adam, thanks for your input.

 

On my wagon the problem is exacerbated by using brass angle for the uprights. I've now tweaked the top rail a bit to make it a bit straighter. On the layout, and that's what is important to me, it's hardly noticeable.

 

I still have to put lamp brackets and vac pipes on, so I'll have a go at headstock extensions while I'm at it.

 

David

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Now that buying items from the UK has become so difficult I looked at a local German online shop to see if I could something of use, before stocks run out, and came up with this Hornby OTA. Normally, with these articulated wagon chassis, I would replace the wobbly bits with Bill Bedford sprung axle units. In this case, I thought it would be a shame to lose the axle box detail so I decided to have a go at ‘finescaling’ the original underframe.

 

OTA-1.jpg.1bab8b89c82cfa3cd052a2e99fb259e3.jpg

I cut off the axle guard detail from the metal axle units, with a piercing saw, and glued them onto the solebars and springs. Then I ground off the pinpoints of the two P4 axles and turned some spacing washers to reduce the side-play.

 

OTA-3.jpg.14bc1177dcc23db961ccc7899f8f5f8b.jpg

 

OTA-2.jpg.a8ca1ebfa8d3a015d3ef99ce3b4fc53f.jpg

Once reassembled, and with couplings fitted, the wagon runs quite well on P4 track although I’m glad this is only a one-off. I think the friction would probably cause problems if I were to run a whole train of them.

 

I will probably need to do a partial re-paint to suit my chosen period, and I will add a load with some concealed weight.

 

David

Edited by Kylestrome
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59 minutes ago, Kylestrome said:

Now that buying items from the UK has become so difficult

Buy, have delivered a friend here, have them send it to you.

other than a slight increase in cost (double postage), how is that difficult?

Indeed, why is buying from the UK difficult now? 

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30 minutes ago, Regularity said:

why is buying from the UK difficult now? 

 

Maybe 'difficult' was the wrong word. Let's call it 'expensive' or, in the case of small suppliers, 'near impossible' instead:

https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/161021-buying-and-selling-models-tofrom-europe/page/17/&tab=comments#comment-4308850

 

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