RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted May 26, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 26, 2020 (edited) As you can see from the photo above, I’ve finally managed to get SMDL No.4 finished. I drew the artwork for the transfers and had them made by Precision Decals. This is the first time I’ve had custom transfers done and I’m really impressed with the quality and their service. As I did not have especially good reference photos, there was a certain amount of guesswork and botch involved but I’m quite pleased with the result. As luck would have it (isn’t it always the way!) I came across another photo, after I’d finished, which shows that there should be dots between the letters ‘SDSP’ and curved brackets around ‘CARRON’. Oh, well ... These two are nearing completion but I’m much more into constructing things, at the moment, than finishing them. David Edited April 11, 2022 by Kylestrome 13 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted May 26, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 26, 2020 (edited) What do you do when you’re having difficulty finishing off on-going projects? You start a whole load more, that’s what! On the workbench at the moment are a Lima ‘Whisky’ grain Hopper for ‘finescaling’, a Bachman OCA for re-wheeling and re-painting and Bogie Bolster E, SPA and OTA kits. The SPA and OTA are just straightforward Cambrian kit-builds, so there’s nothing special about them. The Bogie Bolster E is being reverse engineered from a Cambrian Turbot kit mainly because I already have the Dapol Turbot, but also just to be awkward. The Lima Whisky hopper was a recent impulse buy (I blame @Signaller69 for that) and was going to receive Cambrian pedestal suspension, which would have put it somewhat ahead of my main operating period of 1968/9. Having discovered a 1967 photo of this style of hopper wagon with leaf spring suspension, in the ‘Backtrack’ article, I decided to make life difficult for myself by modelling it from scratch. What you see in the photo above is the ‘feasibility study’ which I now have to repeat 7 times (I have 2 of the Lima wagons). David Edited April 11, 2022 by Kylestrome 9 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leopardml2341 Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 David, Some questions if I may? Are the springs handbuilt or castings? What glue have you used for brass to the Lima plastic; I've had the devil's own job of getting something to bond durably? Who's W Irons? Thanks in advance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted May 28, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted May 28, 2020 1 minute ago, leopardml2341 said: Are the springs handbuilt or castings? Handbuilt from styrene sheet but with Wizard Models '51L' roller bearing castings. 3 minutes ago, leopardml2341 said: What glue have you used for brass to the Lima plastic; I've had the devil's own job of getting something to bond durably? Slow setting 2-part epoxy resin (German equivalent of Araldite). 4 minutes ago, leopardml2341 said: Who's W Irons? Comet Models, which I just happened to have to hand. HTH, David 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Signaller69 Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 On 26/05/2020 at 14:29, Kylestrome said: As you can see from the photo above, I’ve finally managed to get SMDL No.4 finished. I drew the artwork for the transfers and had them made by Precision Decals. This is the first time I’ve had custom transfers done and I’m really impressed with the quality and their service. As I did not have especially good reference photos, there was a certain amount of guesswork and botch involved but I’m quite pleased with the result. As luck would have it (isn’t it always the way!) I came across another photo, after I’d finished, which shows that there should be dots between the letters ‘SDSP’ and curved brackets around ‘CARRON’. Oh, well ... These two are nearing completion but I’m much more into constructing things, at the moment, than finishing them. David Hi David, Superb workmanship as always. The SMD Tank in particular looks fantastic, the end ladder and red/brown livery really makes it look different to other types. Looking forward to seeing your BRTE hopper (with apologies for piquing your interest! They are indeed an interesting subject in themselves.) I've never seen a photo of one of the Powell Duffryn batch with the earlier suspension, presumably as they were so short lived with that arrangement (c.1967-70), so it will be an interesting variation. By way of taking the opposite direction, I have a couple of earlier batch wagons waiting to be fitted with Pedestal units as c.1971, although they won't be up to your fantastic level of detailing I have to admit! Martyn. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted July 31, 2020 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted July 31, 2020 (edited) As with most of my projects, these Lima ‘Whisky’ hoppers were started with a burst of enthusiastic activity which then ground to halt when I hit a slight difficulty. The problem here was trying to find decent reference material for the whisky advertisement boards and a suitable way of producing them to a reasonable standard. Most of what I could find to work with was of low resolution and my ink-jet prints were not sufficiently sharp. As a search for suitable transfers drew a blank, I decided to modify the wagons to their later, boardless state. Because LIma, in their wisdom, moulded the boards as part of the sides I was forced into practicing the ancient and honourable art of chain-drillng to remove the offending panels. I also had to remove some of the internal chamber that contains the weight so that I could more easily use files and sanding sticks. The job of fitting replacement panels was a lot easier than I was expecting, and I managed to finish the whole process in less than a days modelling. I couldn’t face doing a second hopper with leaf springs so I opted to use some Cambrian pedestal suspension units instead. I realise that I will now have wagons (four altogether) that will be out of period with each other but I’m not going to loose any sleep over it. Under gubbins More of the same The body is not yet glued to the chassis, which is fortunate because it's the wrong way round! There's only the painting to do now plus transfers and couplings David Edited April 11, 2022 by Kylestrome 10 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbos Posted August 1, 2020 Share Posted August 1, 2020 Here’s a picture of my attempt at a reworking a ‘Whisky Blue’, inspired by the one you did on page 1 of this thread. Brian. 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
w124bob Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 (edited) I've enjoyed this and the layout thread, my period and region! I searched the web for Presflo pictures and unless I'm missing something, couldn't find any relating to Alumina traffic, certainly not Paul Bartlett's . Modelmaster MM4644 sheet is in the post as I type which I hope is the correct sheet. This is the best/only picture I've found so far class 20 8092 at Fort William 1971 https://www.rail-online.co.uk/p321813950 but doesn't help much regarding running numbers etc. Where did you get the info from? Edited August 4, 2020 by w124bob Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
heavymetalwagons Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 Love the whisky wagon. I to wish someone made 15 or 16 leaf springs for me to use on early tta tankers or hba coal wagons Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted February 1, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 1, 2021 (edited) Although I have not updated this thread for a while, the wagon fleet for Kinlochmore is steadily being added to. At the moment, I have about 25 wagons at various stages of completion. One of these is the Bogie Bolster E, that started of as a Cambrian Turbot kit, which just requires painting and detailing with chains and shackles. The load consists of Evergreen ‘H’ section strips with lead weights concealed inside. The load securing rings are twisted 10 amp fuse wire. An underside view showing the two screws I use to stabilize one bogie to prevent wobble. Buffers made on the lathe and an extra wide loop for the Dingham coupling. The next stage is painting (obviously) but I'm not sure what colour to paint the steel girders. I'm assuming they would be used in the construction industry, so would they be painted or primed in some way? I still need to do some research. David Edited April 11, 2022 by Kylestrome 12 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fat Controller Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 2 hours ago, Kylestrome said: Although I have not updated this thread for a while, the wagon fleet for Kinlochmore is steadily being added to. At the moment, I have about 25 wagons at various stages of completion. One of these is the Bogie Bolster E, that started of as a Cambrian Turbot kit, which just requires painting and detailing with chains and shackles. The load consists of Evergreen ‘H’ section strips with lead weights concealed inside. The load securing rings are twisted 10 amp fuse wire. An underside view showing the two screws I use to stabilize one bogie to prevent wobble. Buffers made on the lathe and an extra wide loop for the Dingham coupling. The next stage is painting (obviously) but I'm not sure what colour to paint the steel girders. I'm assuming they would be used in the construction industry, so would they be painted or primed in some way? I still need to do some research. David The load would be a dark grey, possibly with a little superficial rust. Each would have some chalk markings on them, indicating batch number etc. If they were being shipped abroad, they'd oftem have the vessel name marked as well. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
2mm Andy Posted February 1, 2021 Share Posted February 1, 2021 Very nice modelling David. Paul Bartlett has some nice photos of similar loads on bogie bolster D wagons; https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brbogiebolsterddavis/h28d1dd41 https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brbogiebolsterddavis/h3431000f Andy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted February 2, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2021 (edited) 10 hours ago, 2mm Andy said: Paul Bartlett has some nice photos of similar loads on bogie bolster D wagons; Thanks for those links, Andy. I've also found this one, which shows Fat Controller's points very well: https://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brbogiebolsterddavis/h3431000f#h25ed248d David Edited February 2, 2021 by Kylestrome 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted February 2, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2021 (edited) My first encounter with a Cambrian ballast wagon kit did not end well. When I pulverised my almost completed Dogfish with a hammer, I considered it an act of kindness to end its suffering. It had already undergone several tweaks to somehow make it square and sturdy, but when the final pieces couldn’t be fitted any near where they were supposed to go, I reached the tipping point where anger overcame patience. Still, the experience taught me a lot and I was determined to approach the Catfish in a totally different way namely, as an aid to scratch-building. The main problem with these kits, as I’m sure many of you already know, is that the chassis sub-frame is moulded with angles where there should be right angles, presumably to aid mould release. This makes accurate assembly of the side frames and headstocks nigh-on impossible and extremely weak at best. To overcome this problem I have resorted to using Evergreen 2mm x 3.2mm polystyrene strip to replace the kit’s internal chassis frame. In the end, only the solebars, headstocks, hopper and a couple of the stanchion pieces were used from the kit. Assorted wire, metal T-section and polystyrene strip has replaced the rest as well as etched operating wheels from Stenson Models and an Airfix tank wagon vacuum cylinder. This view shows up the subtle kink I had to put in the top handrail in order to get things lined up as best I could. In the the hopper there's a load of steel balls for extra weight. After painting, these will be covered by ballast. Now, I’m quite looking forward to getting to grips with a mermaid ... David Edited March 24, 2023 by Kylestrome 10 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pillar Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 (edited) Just come across this thread. Fantastic work throughout! The scratchbuilt tank underframe and springs for the grain wagons are very nice. Thanks for detailing your approach to P4'ing the Dapol Turbot too. I've got a few that will be needing this treatment. Cheers, Liam Edited February 2, 2021 by Pillar 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southwich Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 Really nice work David! I must say the quality of your detailing on the wagons is staggering. A quick question if I may, have you modified the latch on top of the hook on the Dingham on the right of the last photo? If so would you be able to describe what you’ve done please? It looks much nicer than the out of the pack version! Thanks in advance, keep up the superb work! Will 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted February 2, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2021 2 hours ago, Southwich said: have you modified the latch on top of the hook on the Dingham Nope. There are two types of latch on the etch. I use the one, with a hole at both ends, which you bend round and fill with solder. I prefer these because the solder adds a little bit of weight to help it drop onto the hook. David 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted February 3, 2021 Share Posted February 3, 2021 (edited) 13 hours ago, Kylestrome said: My first encounter with a Cambrian ballast wagon kit did not end well. When I pulverised my almost completed Dogfish with a hammer, I considered it an act of kindness to end its suffering. It had already undergone several tweaks to somehow make it square and sturdy, but when the final pieces couldn’t be fitted any near where they were supposed to go, I reached the tipping point where anger overcame patience. Still, the experience taught me a lot and I was determined to approach the Catfish in a totally different way namely, as an aid to scratch-building. The main problem with these kits, as I’m sure many of you already know, is that the chassis sub-frame is moulded with angles where there should be right angles, presumably to aid mould release. This makes accurate assembly of the side frames and headstocks nigh-on impossible and extremely weak at best. To overcome this problem I have resorted to using Evergreen 2mm x 3.2mm polystyrene strip to replace the kit’s internal chassis frame. In the end, only the solebars, headstocks, hopper and a couple of the stanchion pieces were used from the kit. Assorted wire, metal T-section and polystyrene strip has replaced the rest as well as etched operating wheels from Stenson Models and an Airfix tank wagon vacuum cylinder. This view shows up the subtle kink I had to put in the top handrail in order to get things lined up as best I could. In the the hopper there's a load of steel balls for extra weight. After painting, these will be covered by ballast. Now, I’m quite looking forward to getting to grips with a mermaid ... David Very nice, David - I've never bothered to replace the steps on mine, perhaps I should? I agree that the key bits of the Cambrian kit are usable, but there are improvements to make in some of the details. One thing, however, is that because Colin Parks designed the operators' platform to fit inside the solebars, the ends of the safety rail are too far away from the outer edge of the solebar. It should be right to the edge per this picture: https://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/brcatfishzev/e172cfd16 From what I remember of building a Mermaid, I abandoned the headstock/solebar locations and built up some of the stringers as well as putting some laminates of 60 thou' sheet behind the coupling. What I'd do were I to make another (possible) I'd solvent-weld an oblong of 60 thou' in there to keep things square. See below for what I did: An below for what I was thinking of - if the plastic sheet was level with the bottom of the solebar it will be more or less invisible: Adam Edited February 3, 2021 by Adam 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SP Steve Posted February 3, 2021 Share Posted February 3, 2021 (edited) Another point to watch for when numbering is that for the first three lots the 'W' irons have only the one small hole as per the kit whilst for the final three lots there are two. Lot 2682 DB992531 - 992590 1 Hole Lot 2683 DB992591 - 992650 1 Hole Lot 2775 DB992651 - 992710 1 Hole Lot 2929 DB993508 - 993566 2 Hole Lot 3039 DB983376 - 983576 2 Hole Lot 3331 DB983627 - 983896 2 Hole I've recently dug out my six Catfish kits so am looking on with interest..... Edited February 3, 2021 by SP Steve Details added 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted February 3, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 3, 2021 (edited) 58 minutes ago, Adam said: the ends of the safety rail are too far away from the outer edge of the solebar. That's almost impossible to avoid, if you are replacing them with wire, because you have to drill the holes so close to the edge of the headstocks. I you keep the top rail straight you end up with the verticals being at an angle. It's one of those compromises we small scale modellers have to live with. I've seen your Mermaid and have taken notes. David Edited February 3, 2021 by Kylestrome Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted February 3, 2021 Share Posted February 3, 2021 4 minutes ago, Kylestrome said: That's almost impossible to avoid, if you are replacing them with wire, because you have to drill the holes so close to the edge of the headstocks. I you keep the top rail straight you end up with the verticals being at an angle. It's one of those compromises we small scale modellers have to live with. I've seen you Mermaid and have taken notes. David It's a compromise I wasn't happy to live with (much more noticeable then the steps, I think) and, as it happens, it's not that difficult. You an see that I added a 5 thou' overlay with superglue to represent the decking. The protruding headstock ends are something Geoff Kent did and where the master leads... I think I've done four now (spread over twenty years - my second ever plastic kit was one of these: it eventually fell apart and it's since been rebuilt. I knew how to pick 'em) and they get easier. Adam 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted February 3, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 3, 2021 Adam, thanks for your input. On my wagon the problem is exacerbated by using brass angle for the uprights. I've now tweaked the top rail a bit to make it a bit straighter. On the layout, and that's what is important to me, it's hardly noticeable. I still have to put lamp brackets and vac pipes on, so I'll have a go at headstock extensions while I'm at it. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted February 5, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 5, 2021 (edited) Now that buying items from the UK has become so difficult I looked at a local German online shop to see if I could something of use, before stocks run out, and came up with this Hornby OTA. Normally, with these articulated wagon chassis, I would replace the wobbly bits with Bill Bedford sprung axle units. In this case, I thought it would be a shame to lose the axle box detail so I decided to have a go at ‘finescaling’ the original underframe. I cut off the axle guard detail from the metal axle units, with a piercing saw, and glued them onto the solebars and springs. Then I ground off the pinpoints of the two P4 axles and turned some spacing washers to reduce the side-play. Once reassembled, and with couplings fitted, the wagon runs quite well on P4 track although I’m glad this is only a one-off. I think the friction would probably cause problems if I were to run a whole train of them. I will probably need to do a partial re-paint to suit my chosen period, and I will add a load with some concealed weight. David Edited April 11, 2022 by Kylestrome 7 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted February 5, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2021 59 minutes ago, Kylestrome said: Now that buying items from the UK has become so difficult Buy, have delivered a friend here, have them send it to you. other than a slight increase in cost (double postage), how is that difficult? Indeed, why is buying from the UK difficult now? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Kylestrome Posted February 5, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted February 5, 2021 30 minutes ago, Regularity said: why is buying from the UK difficult now? Maybe 'difficult' was the wrong word. Let's call it 'expensive' or, in the case of small suppliers, 'near impossible' instead: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/161021-buying-and-selling-models-tofrom-europe/page/17/&tab=comments#comment-4308850 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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