Oxford N7

[Hitchin Junction]

All I remember from watching the rush hour batches of the Liverpool St Jazz trains flying by the bottom of my garden, 1950-1960,  was that I thought all had round top fireboxes, but the tall straight chimneys were steadily replaced by the squat ones, until at the end, they all had them. I don't recognize the Oxford "hat brim" tall chimney at all.

[Londoner]

I certainly remember the parallel chimneys on N7 engines right up to virtually the end, certainly in 1959/60.

[Stentor]

Perhaps at last ... news from Hattons this morning...

 

“We thought you may like to know that an item you have on order with us.

Oxford Rail OR76N7003 Class N7 0-6-2T 69612 in BR black

Our latest information from the supplier suggests this item will arrive with us on or after Wednesday 16th October 2019

Whilst we are hopeful this information is accurate, manufacturer lead times are frequently prone to be delayed. “
 

Not getting too excited yet but let’s see.

 

//Simon

[stewartingram]

I've had the email from Oxford this morning, stating that it has now arrived in their warehouse.

 

Stewart

[Chas Levin]

Hi all, my recently purchased N7 is a beautifully smooth & quiet runner but doesn't like some of the points or the diamond on my admittedly coarse track and non-prototypical layout: investigating, I found that the wheels are significantly under standard OO back-to-back.

I spend a lot of time building kits and am happy to repair older RTR stock but one decent tool I lack is a wheel-puller that could back the wheels off a tiny amount without needing full dismantling. Given how new the loco is, I asked Oxford whether they could help rectify and was told they have no servicing or repair facilities. Peters Spares didn't want to know either.

Has anyone else experienced this?

And can anyone recommend a suitable wheel-puller for this job please?

Thank you in advance, Chas 

Edited October 10, 2019 by Chas Levin
***spelling!***

[stewartingram]

I use a small pair of electronics pliers. Inserted behind a wheel, either side of the axle, they allow gentle pressure to evenly lever the wheel out. If the other way, I've yet to find a wheel that won't move under finger pressure.

 

Stewart

Edited October 10, 2019 by stewartingram

[Steamport Southport]

If you are only needing to do one model then I would recommend just gentle finger pressure whilst checking with a back to back gauge of your desired standard.

 

If you are doing loads of wheels then it might be worth getting a wheel puller from GW Models. No web presence, but I'll post the address and details when I can find them. They cost about £12 ISTR.

 

Easier to find than I thought.

 

G W MODELS

11 CROSHAW CLOSE

LANCING

WEST SUSSEX

BN15 9LE

 

Tel: (01903) 767231

 

Wheel Puller for 4mm wheels (self adjusting for all sizes) £12 each + £2 p&p per order (£4.50 overseas)

 

He also makes a wheel press and quartering tool, worm/gear pullers, rivet tools, back to back gauges.

 

 

 

 

Jason

Edited October 10, 2019 by Steamport Southport

[Chas Levin]

7 minutes ago, stewartingram said:

I use a small pair of electronics pliers. Inserted behind a wheel, either side of the axle, they allow gentle pressure to evenly lever the wheel out. If the other way, I've yet to find a wheel that won't move under finger pressure.

 

Stewart

Thanks Stewart; how do you ensure even pressure though? I'd be concerned that I might be applying slightly more force to one side (the side near the pliers' handles I would think) than the other and might distort the centre hole of the wheel, perhaps loosen it or put it off the perpendicular to the axle? Is it just a case of practice + confidence = success? 

 

5 minutes ago, Steamport Southport said:

If you are only needing to do one model then I would recommend just gentle finger pressure whilst checking with a back to back gauge of your desired standard.

 

If you are doing loads of wheels then it might be worth getting a wheel puller from GW Models. No web presence, but I'll post the address and details when I can find them. They cost about £12 ISTR.

 

 

Jason

Thanks Jason; there is a need for more than one, this is just the most troublesome one right now. I'd pretty much decided to give the GW models one a try and your recommendation has confirmed it .

When building wagons, coaches etc where I have the bare wheelsets before install, I use a combination of finger pressure and gently forcing (if that isn't an oxymoron?) an OO wheel gauge between the wheels (I know this is frowned on by some but have had no problems so far), but I'd prefer to leave this loco un-dismantled if poss.

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

3 hours ago, Chas Levin said:

... I found that the wheels are significantly under standard OO back-to-back.

I spend a lot of time building kits and am happy to repair older RTR stock but one decent tool I lack is a wheel-puller that could back the wheels off a tiny amount without needing full dismantling...

Easiest way is support model in one hand holding a small drift on the axle end, and administer one well regulated tap with a pin hammer. And check. Repeat as required. Won't disturb the wheel seating in any way. (Check the wheel faces carefully before starting to see if any axle ends protrude. If so start by tapping those!

[RAYTHEROCK]

Rather concerned that Chas Levin reports Oxford Rail have no repair facilities - I don't think Peter's Spares hold any spare parts for them either. Longterm this could lead to problems in keeping locos running.  (Hornby spares also seem to be in short supply).

 

Hoping to see my 69612 soon now - meantime has anyone a simple solution to those far too  long couplings?

[Chas Levin]

15 hours ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

Easiest way is support model in one hand holding a small drift on the axle end, and administer one well regulated tap with a pin hammer. And check. Repeat as required. Won't disturb the wheel seating in any way. (Check the wheel faces carefully before starting to see if any axle ends protrude. If so start by tapping those!

Hi, thank you 34theletterbetweenB&D, that's an interesting suggestion; I like the precision of that and the fact that it wouldn't disturb the wheel seating - might try that this weekend...

Meanwhile Jason, I have ordered a GW Models puller, to see what they're like to use.

And yes RAYTHEROCK, long-term spares & repairs may be an issue...

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

15 hours ago, RAYTHEROCK said:

Rather concerned that Chas Levin reports Oxford Rail have no repair facilities - I don't think Peter's Spares hold any spare parts for them either. Longterm this could lead to problems in keeping locos running...

Although an established manufacturer, they are relatively new to model railway; and probably haven't had to provide any spare and repair support for road vehicle products and the like. Nothing there to go wrong beyond packed faulty or damaged in transit - replace like for like from stock deals with that. Wait and see on this aspect.

 

 

15 hours ago, RAYTHEROCK said:

...meantime has anyone a simple solution to those far too long couplings?

First question in response would be 'And what coupling do you want to use sir?'. Whatever the coupler choice, variant procedures for front and rear because the coupler pocket position behind buffers is not the same front and rear.

 

If it is the tension locks supplied.

At the front end I would lift the pocket out, crop it short back to the curving section, ditto the coupler tails to match, superglue together, and it will now only be 'long' rather than Southend Pier long. (Bachmann's miniature tension lock is slightly shorter, you could give that the same cropping  and substitute in the pocket for a slightly closer coupling.)

At the rear, take about 4mm off the front of the pocket, matching reduction of coupler tails, and the coupler will probably be 'about right' in front of the buffers for normal set track operation. You will have to establish just what is 'the right position' for your layout's minimum radius before committing the deed.

 

The RTR coupler I have used is the Kadee no17.

Shortened the front pocket about 3.5mm, matching shortening of the coupler tail. That's to place the Kadee buffing face in the same plane as the buffers, which I can do because I use a 30" minimum radius. I should think about 1mm shortening would do the job for set track radius 2, but that's a guess.

At the rear, Kadee no 17 was about right for my purposes, needs a little more projection because of the greater end overhang. Might need a Kadee no 18 or even a 19 for radius 2, I don't know; but it's easy plug and play.

 

 

 

[PhilJ W]

7 hours ago, 34theletterbetweenB&D said:

Although an established manufacturer, they are relatively new to model railway; and probably haven't had to provide any spare and repair support for road vehicle products and the like. Nothing there to go wrong beyond packed faulty or damaged in transit - replace like for like from stock deals with that. Wait and see on this aspect.

 

 

 

They usually sell off their 'returns' at knock down prices from their display stand at events that they attend. Usually the smaller cars and vans at £1 each. I've obtained a couple of perfect models this way with just damaged packaging. Perhaps if they extend this to Oxford Rail it may be possible to obtain spares this way. I do understand they will have a stand at Warley.

[Hitchin Junction]

I bought a set of "bow opening" or  "reverse pliers" for carefully opening out sideframe gaps, etc., without damage. They open when you squeeze the handles, rather than close. Very much better manual control of the opening pressure. Amazon has them.

 

Regardless, too narrow a BB with no simple and reliable of way adjusting it, sounds like an "unfit for purpose" future major  marketing problem. I have a couple reserved, but now I'm thinking about not taking the risk. Why don't these "model" companies do their technical homework?

 

Tim

 

[MartinTrucks]

And finally, ..................

 

https://www.hattons.co.uk/254694/oxford_rail_or76n7003_class_n7_0_6_2t_69612_in_br_black_with_early_emblem/stockdetail.aspx

 

Hattons have the early BR crest non-sound ones in stock!  Hooray!!!

 

Martin

[EHertsGER]

On 10/10/2019 at 09:59, Steamport Southport said:

If you are only needing to do one model then I would recommend just gentle finger pressure whilst checking with a back to back gauge of your desired standard.

 

If you are doing loads of wheels then it might be worth getting a wheel puller from GW Models. No web presence, but I'll post the address and details when I can find them. They cost about £12 ISTR.

 

Easier to find than I thought.

 

G W MODELS

11 CROSHAW CLOSE

LANCING

WEST SUSSEX

BN15 9LE

 

Tel: (01903) 767231

 

Wheel Puller for 4mm wheels (self adjusting for all sizes) £12 each + £2 p&p per order (£4.50 overseas)

 

He also makes a wheel press and quartering tool, worm/gear pullers, rivet tools, back to back gauges.

 

 

 

 

Jason

I can vouch for George’s tools; more adventurous modellers are recommended to buy his rivet press and rolling tools also.

[D-A-T]

I'll second his rolling bars. A very well made tool and easy to use. My first roll was a success. I even surprised myself.

Edited October 15, 2019 by D-A-T

[Bucoops]

1 hour ago, EHertsGER said:

I can vouch for George’s tools; more adventurous modellers are recommended to buy his rivet press and rolling tools also.

 

I've just discovered I need the longer rolling bars for doing coach sides - the metal bar on a mousemat just doesn't work very well for panelled sides  Might have to penny count and get a rivet press too, although I don't think I can stretch to the one with adjustable vernier (?) wheels.

 

I already have his quartering tool and pullers. Very well made for the price.

[JamieR4489]

20 hours ago, MartinTrucks said:

And finally, ..................

 

https://www.hattons.co.uk/254694/oxford_rail_or76n7003_class_n7_0_6_2t_69612_in_br_black_with_early_emblem/stockdetail.aspx

 

Hattons have the early BR crest non-sound ones in stock!  Hooray!!!

 

Martin

It's a shame they couldn't modify the smokebox door to include an actual number plate and shed plate, rather than just printing them on.

[Bernard Lamb]

46 minutes ago, JamieR4489 said:

It's a shame they couldn't modify the smokebox door to include an actual number plate and shed plate, rather than just printing them on.

Well spotted.

Is the number the correct size?

It looks a little on the large side from the Hatton's pic, but it might be better in the flesh.

It does make re-numbering easier.

Bernard

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

2 hours ago, JamieR4489 said:

It's a shame they couldn't modify the smokebox door to include an actual number plate and shed plate, rather than just printing them on.

And there's me thinking, ooh handy, have 34C shed plate, easy to add that and a numberplate over the print, since I have to renumber to make it one of Hatfield's allocation, 69618.

 

 

 

 

 

[Downer]

We seem to be in glass half-full territory here. Whichever way you look at it the lack of a smoke box number plate is a retrograde step.

[micklner]

36 minutes ago, Downer said:

We seem to be in glass half-full territory here. Whichever way you look at it the lack of a smoke box number plate is a retrograde step.

Personally I think its a very good idea .

 

 

Makes life so much easier to backdate to LNER days, hiding the marks left after removing anything on a plastic model is always a real pain to do, no scarring and paint loss, to hide. Far easier to actually change the number and plate if required as well.

[31A]

69612 collected about an hour ago from Monk Bar Model Shop, York.  So far, very impressed.

 

A lot of the body seems to be die cast so the loco is heavy for its size (as mentioned up thread).  Despite having no running in, a very smooth runner and no problems with the dead frogs in my double slips.  The tyres (including treads) are blackened and I wondered whether this might affect current collection, but it doesn't seem to.

 

Paint finish very good; lining and numbers neatly printed.  I think the 'polished' cab surrounds and window frames will have to go though when I do some weathering - we don't want any of that East End bling here!  Although actually the 'polished steel' is quite finely done.

 

Haven't worked out what to do about the couplings yet, and unfortunately (!) I will also have to do something about the top lamp iron, as it isn't possible to slip a headlamp over it.

 

 

[Chas Levin]

On 10/10/2019 at 14:59, Steamport Southport said:

If you are only needing to do one model then I would recommend just gentle finger pressure whilst checking with a back to back gauge of your desired standard.

 

If you are doing loads of wheels then it might be worth getting a wheel puller from GW Models. No web presence, but I'll post the address and details when I can find them. They cost about £12 ISTR.

 

Easier to find than I thought.

 

G W MODELS

11 CROSHAW CLOSE

LANCING

WEST SUSSEX

BN15 9LE

 

Tel: (01903) 767231

 

Wheel Puller for 4mm wheels (self adjusting for all sizes) £12 each + £2 p&p per order (£4.50 overseas)

 

He also makes a wheel press and quartering tool, worm/gear pullers, rivet tools, back to back gauges.

 

 

 

 

Jason

Thanks Jason, about to send off a cheque for the wheel puller.

I've dealt with GW before, for a set of long bend bars, very happy. The bars are also very useful for things like scribing straight lines along both sides of sheet brass and exactly opposite each other, so that the marked off section can be easily bent and snapped off cleanly.

Chas