Quarryscapes Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 Dcc is already destroying my brain. I thought it best not to further traumatise it with sound! I think keeping it running smoothly is more beneficial, but no, there isn't much space left for much else. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted February 20, 2017 Author Share Posted February 20, 2017 Dcc is already destroying my brain. I thought it best not to further traumatise it with sound! I think keeping it running smoothly is more beneficial, but no, there isn't much space left for much else. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 Frames back out today, left hand now finished, right hand just needs the brake hanger bosses putting on - did I mention I'm not doing them as per the instructions either? Rather than just a 1mm rod across the chassis, I'm putting in tapped bosses and hanging the rods from 12BA screws, which will allow adjustment of the whole assembly and allows me to keep the plastic brake blocks well away from any soldering. These were taken before the bosses went in: 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 Frames complete! Woohoo! In celebration they've had a good scrub with CIF now, after a rub down with the solvent seen in the background, good stuff for getting rid of flux residues and excess solder from solder pastes. I did putt he rear spacer in the right way before dropping the boiler in! Not one bit of today's hard work is visible with the boiler in place, so the as directed brake cross-shafts would have been fine, but I would always know that it's wrong. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigbadbadge Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Looking very nice good to see the wheels turning too. Keep up the good work All the bestChris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold MarshLane Posted February 21, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 21, 2017 Dcc is already destroying my brain. I thought it best not to further traumatise it with sound! I think keeping it running smoothly is more beneficial, but no, there isn't much space left for much else. Hi, Fair comment - just one thought for you, really for background info, talking to Paul Chetter today, he mentioned that the smallest sugar cube speakers are really good for their size - and they fit (with a little adjustment) within the body of a Hornby OO Gauge Peckett, along with the motor and DCC decoder! Should you decide in the future to add sound, then speak to Paul and I'm sure he'll advise, but I'd suspect a small speaker could be found to fit the limited space available. The completion of the frames really does make it look very good - I'm envious! Rich 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted February 21, 2017 Author Share Posted February 21, 2017 Some more photographic help needed - drain cocks and operating rod. Very few Hunslets had visible drain cocks below the cylinders where you'd expect, so what form did the rest take? Also the cab end of the operating rod - what should that look like? The instructions say to bend 1.5mm of the end of the rod at right angles and to just stick it to the reverser. The few photos I can find suggest that the 90 degree bend should actually be a pin in the end of the rod acting as a handle, and I imagine there must be some sort of bracket or guide to hold it in position? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGH Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Some more photographic help needed - drain cocks and operating rod. Very few Hunslets had visible drain cocks below the cylinders where you'd expect, so what form did the rest take? Also the cab end of the operating rod - what should that look like? The instructions say to bend 1.5mm of the end of the rod at right angles and to just stick it to the reverser. The few photos I can find suggest that the 90 degree bend should actually be a pin in the end of the rod acting as a handle, and I imagine there must be some sort of bracket or guide to hold it in position? The earlier Hunslet locos had drain cocks on the valve chests rather than the cylinders, there was nothing below the cylinders as illustrated in this over exposed view of ELIDIR The operating lever passed through a bracket bolted to the handbrake column and had a handle on the end facing outwards, as shown here on ALICE - if you can make it out, the flash photography doesn't help ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 The earlier Hunslet locos had drain cocks on the valve chests rather than the cylinders, there was nothing below the cylinders as illustrated in this over exposed view of ELIDIR HE 493 Cylinder.jpg The operating lever passed through a bracket bolted to the handbrake column and had a handle on the end facing outwards, as shown here on ALICE - if you can make it out, the flash photography doesn't help ! HE 780 ALICE Detail.jpg To the rescue again! Once you see it it becomes obvious on the DHT drawing! just one further thing, should the reverser lever be on the outside or firebox side of it's bracket? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 I need to order some etch primer from Phoenix, whilst I'm spending scandalous amounts on paint can anyone suggest a paint match for this: 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGH Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 To the rescue again! Once you see it it becomes obvious on the DHT drawing! just one further thing, should the reverser lever be on the outside or firebox side of it's bracket? It should be on the outside. The photo below is about the best I could find to illustrate this - on VELINHELI You can barely make it out (blow up of a rather grainy negative) but the edge of the stand is highlighted between the two yellow lines. The ends of the two curved strips with the notches for the lever catch are indicated by the red arrow, so as the lever runs between these it must be on the outside of the stand. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshall5 Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 AFAIK Dinorwic specified "Midland red" i.e. crimson lake. Cackler looks a bit faded though. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 Straight cab steps done! Used the bottom of the etched ones supplied attached to some 12mm wide N/S strip with rivets, which didn't come out as straight as I'd like unfortunately. Steps prototypically bolted to the buffer beam with M0.6 nuts and bolts. The Middle ones around the coupling pocket are 16BA. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted February 22, 2017 Author Share Posted February 22, 2017 It should be on the outside. The photo below is about the best I could find to illustrate this - on VELINHELI Reverser stand.jpg You can barely make it out (blow up of a rather grainy negative) but the edge of the stand is highlighted between the two yellow lines. The ends of the two curved strips with the notches for the lever catch are indicated by the red arrow, so as the lever runs between these it must be on the outside of the stand. Now the important question, does the operating rod go in front or behind the lever? The instructions are pretty vague on the reverser, it just says assemble with 3 short lengths of 30thou wire till it looks like the photo, but there is no photo! In any case I've replaced 2 of the 30 thou wire lengths with 16BA nut, bolt and spacing tube, already looks more realistic! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PGH Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Now the important question, does the operating rod go in front or behind the lever? The instructions are pretty vague on the reverser, it just says assemble with 3 short lengths of 30thou wire till it looks like the photo, but there is no photo! In any case I've replaced 2 of the 30 thou wire lengths with 16BA nut, bolt and spacing tube, already looks more realistic! Questions ! Questions ! Its about 20 years since I 'played' with the real thing, so I like to find photographic evidence to support a sometimes hazy recollection - if I can. The answer to the above question is both. Each end of the reversing rod had a fork so was both sides of the respective levers. I'm doubtful about the inward curving sides to the reversing lever stand, but without seeing ROUGH PUP (which is I think the loco that the Slaters model is supposed to represent) I wouldn't like to say its wrong. The stand should have a plain top with alongside it two curved notched strips with the lever between them. There are spacers on the bolts each end of the strips to accommodate the lever and also spacers between the strips and the stand. Also there should be a large hole in the centre of the stand for access to the bolt in the forked joint between the lever and the reversing rod. SYBIL MARY at the Statfold Barn Railway is a different type of loco but has some similar details. Locos with the handbrake support on the firebox had the reverser stand outside instead of inside the brake column. Also the drain cock lever was supported on a bracket fixed to the reverser stand rather than the handbrake column. However relevant details are the end view of the reverser stand showing the plain top with the notched strips each side of the lever and bottom centre the handle at the end of the drain cock lever, which looks large in the photo but was only about 3-4" long. Some of these points can be seen in the detail photos in the Quarry Hunslet book. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 The joint at the other end should be forked as well. Fabrication required! The shape if the reverser stand in the kit is as shown on the DHT drawing, but as you say none of the pics I have show it that way either. I certainly don't like relying on preservation era photos as so much has been replaced or modified. Cloister for example is shown with w stand that is not dis-similar in shape to a Metaxa bottle, it is obviously shorter than the kit stand and is mounted the other way round, Dolbadarn's is as you last described with the round hole. Those on the Pen yr Orsedd Hunslets appear different again! As I have no drawings for anything other than that included with the kit I'll have to let this slide, however I have modified the rod to fork the ends, which required the lever to be thinned and a spacer washer added behind it. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted February 23, 2017 Author Share Posted February 23, 2017 Bit more tidying on the reverser. The operating rod has been thinned down a bit and the forks tidied up. I've also had to turn the bracket round as the rod wasn't fitting behind the cabsheet properly, it is also fitted closer to the firebox than in should be - clearly Slaters intended for the bracket to be the other way round with lever and rod on the firebox side of the bracket. The reverser assembly is now soldered to the footplate, as is the cab back sheet. Whilst I was soldering, I also stuck the front and rear frame spacers to the frames, so there is now a solid chassis and a separate footplate. I didn't fix the middle spacer because I want to add an overlay from 0.2mm copperclad board to it first to take the pickups, easier if I can use the spacer as a template to cut the board and laminate it off model. Once that's done, I can fit and finish the valve gear and brake gear. Also today, I began chopping up some old 2x1 to make new dumb buffers. Whether intentional or not, Slaters supply the metal facings on the etch. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 (edited) You rotten lot could have told me I'd forgotten to fit the whistle! Only realised yesterday whilst pulling bits out of the bits pot and I pulled it out... Now duly fitted! Edited February 25, 2017 by Quarryscapes 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Young Posted February 25, 2017 Share Posted February 25, 2017 I need to order some etch primer from Phoenix, whilst I'm spending scandalous amounts on paint can anyone suggest a paint match for this: Really enjoying your build, exquisite work. Particularly like the fine detail. Regarding the colour, Reds can be quite thin colours and my experience is that a brownish tinge, as shown by the weathered finish in the photo of Cackler, is helped by painting over a Red Oxide primer rather than a grey one. Cackler's condition is well polished so the finish could be achieved by using the polishing technique that Giles Favell favours. One possible colour choice would be GWR Indian Red (for carriage bolection mouldings I believe), which is a brownish Crimson lake for want of a better term. Attached below is a photo of my 7mm scale Fletcher Jennings loco purely to illustrate my point, the painting was a Halfords Rattle Can Red Oxide Primer, followed by brush painted Railmatch Indian Red, a coat of Testors Dullcote and some dry brushed weathering. Hope that helps. Cheers, Andrew 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 Furness Indian Red is looking like the best candidate so far, although I haven't seen much of it in the flesh. I've got an unopened 50ml tub of Midland Crimson Lake which I painted all my 009 Hunslets (I had 4), but based on photographic evidence by the 50s the base shade was already much lighter than that, let alone with weathering. Red Damsel would not have been painted for at least 6 years in the year I'm modelling, and if you look at PGH's part picture showing the LHS cabside, it was clearly taking a beating, for that very reason it will have grey primer as it's going to be very visible. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted February 27, 2017 Author Share Posted February 27, 2017 And now for something completely different! Remember I ordered a Slaters Rubbish wagon? Well today I began an experiment to see if I could actually build it by riveting it together. I turned up a punch with a domed end and a matching anvil, and away I went with the hammer. Took a while to get the hang of it but the result is a prototypical bashed about wagon held together by rivets. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Nice, but wouldn't want to make too many like that, the rivets aren't cheap are they? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 (edited) 7p a rivet for the ones I'm using, 92 rivets per wagon. I'm going to see if I can make my own from copper shortly. Edited February 28, 2017 by Quarryscapes 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffP Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I aquired a huge bag of copper rivets, only about 3-4mm long, but with countersunk heads. I have about a thousand. So far, being countersunk, I've used about ten. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarryscapes Posted February 28, 2017 Author Share Posted February 28, 2017 Red Damsel came with some nominally 1mm copper wire for the pipework, it's far to crooked (and oversize) for that so I've been using short lengths, only about 2mm, in the rubbish wagon. Using my punch and anvil it deforms nicely into a rivet with better results than the brass rod I also tried (it was too hard). 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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