Plastikard + thin plywood?

[spikey]

I'm getting close to making a start on my very first scratchbuilt structures, for which I intend to use embossed styrene sheet over a backing.  This is 00, by the way.

 

I'm on a tight budget, so was wondering if instead of buying plain styrene sheet for the backing, I could use up some of the good-quality 2mm ply of which I have a stock. 

 

Does embossed Plastikard work alright on top of thin ply for things like retaining walls, and if so, what do I stick it on with?

[BG John]

I built a goods shed from balsa and embossed plasticard about 40 years ago, and as far as I remember, I attached the plasticard with EvoStik. It's still in one piece (although the walls have warped, but that shouldn't happen with ply).

 

Last year, I built a bridge from the same materials, and used tacky glue. It's still in one piece so far, and my nose was much happier, although I don't know how long it will last (the bridge, not my nose ).

[ColinK]

I've used plasticard over balsa and ply with success. To glue the two together I spread a thin layer of evostick on the wood and a very very light brush of liquid poly on the plasticard.

[brossard]

I've use Slaters embossed plastic sheets on 0.040" plastic sheet.  The glue does need to vent so holes should be drilled in the backing sheet.  I recall making a wall and not doing that. Several weeks later I found it had warped terribly.  

 

I did make a bridge using paper brick over plastic card and used spray adhesive to stick it.  Again things warped really badly.  My theory is that the paper absorbed moisture from the air and tried to expand (or shrink), taking the plastic with it.

 

I haven't used plastic on ply, but as ply will absorb moisture and plastic won't, that's something to beware of.

 

John

[spikey]

Thank you, gentlemen.  Looks like it's worth a try then, but ...

 

 ... Last year, I built a bridge from the same materials, and used tacky glue ...

 

Ermmm ... "tacky glue"?

[Kylestrome]

When you build the underlying structure, whether card or ply, make it as stiff as possible with plenty of bracing where it can't be seen.

 

When glueing on the styrene sheet, coat both surfaces thinly and make sure that the Evostik is absolutely dry to touch before bringing the surfaces together. This is important because, if the adhesive is still wet it will soften the plastic over time, particularly if the sheet is thin.

 

This method works well, and I have thirty year old models that prove it! 

[HLT 0109]

You may find that solvent-free Evostik suits the job better than the traditional stuff.  It has no smell that I can detect.

[Roger Sunderland]

I've used styrene over ply many times but please use the traditional Evostick - works very well and very little, if any, warping. Having tried them I have to say I don't trust solvent free adhesives as much.

[BG John]

Thank you, gentlemen.  Looks like it's worth a try then, but ...

 

 

Ermmm ... "tacky glue"?

 

It's PVA with something added to make it grip much faster.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Anitas-Tacky-PVA-Glue-All-Purpose-Card-Making-Crafts-Hobbies-DIY-60ml-/291825130603

This is just picked at random on eBay, as there are lots of suppliers. There are other makes too, but I've used Anita's so far. I've also seen it in my local craft shop.

[chris p bacon]

I've used styrene over ply many times but please use the traditional Evostick - works very well and very little, if any, warping. Having tried them I have to say I don't trust solvent free adhesives as much.

The solvent free works fine, we use it in kitchens for edging work on laminates where it's subject to heat, water grease etc and we've had no problems in 5 years.

[Icknieldrobin]

I've recently been experimenting with building materials and had some success using embossed plastikard and Wills embossed sheets on a base of 5mm foam board. I bought this cheap at a national craft shop together with a roll of narrow double sided tape which does surprisingly hold the base and surface tightly together. This gets around the problem using solvents dissolving the internal foam. I'm using this process to top out the platforms with Wills paving and Slater's embossed brick for the walls of the platforms themselves. Care needs to be taken to 'fit' the paving together but it's then a case of laying on top of the double sided tape with a minimal amount of pressure.

 

Doug   

[spikey]

Nice one Doug.  I was just wondering about double-sided tape.  Or maybe Pritt ...

[Izzy]

The only problem I have encountered with foamboard is that it can warp badly when coated with glue over the whole surface area. I have now gone back to mountboard which doesn't. This is another backing material you could consider using. Plasticard glues to it easily just using normal liquid glue.

 

Izzy

[lightengine]

Hobby craft had foamboard on offer a week or so ago.

[spikey]

For what it's worth, I can now report that Pritt, of all things, seems to work very well indeed for sticking embossed Plastikard to thin balsa!

[Jamiel]

I would say a resounding 'YES', it is my method of choice.

I build my buildings with a thin ply shell which is then covered with Slaters or Southeast Finecast brick sheeting. The plastic brick sheets are glued on with Evostick solvent free (which might just be rubber glue but marketed at a higher price?). The wood base can just glued with PVA or screws if needed.

 

This method makes a very strong laminate, here demonstrated by my daughter a few years ago holding a building in progress. Cutting the plywood is harder, and slower than cutting plasticard or foam board, but I feel gives the strongest base possible to work on.



I find that cutting 2-3mm ply on a cutting board with a Stanley knife works well, but does blunt the blades quickly, but allows for quite accurate cutting. I would also recommend cutting window and door holes wider than the plastic holes, as they are the most fiddly bit, and you can use strips of plastic sheet or Evergreen strip to fill in behind the brick card. You will also need files and a drill. The plywood can be carved with the Stanley knife once the holes have been made, and is easier to work with than you might expect, it is just the initial cutting that takes time.

A couple more photos of my current project a station building.

 

There are more examples on my layout thread http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/53110-ellerby-layout-loco-detailing-making-buildings-index/

There are links there to specific buildings made this way, water tower, goods building and the above station building.

I hope that is of some help. Good luck.

Jamie

EDIT. I should just add that the buildings I have made have shown no sign of warping, as I said it forms a laminate which is stronger than either the plastic (no very strong in the first place) and the plywood, which is already a laminate using different grains of wood to hold against each other to prevent warping. It works with plastic on one or both sides. My oldest building is now 8 years old, so has not stood the test of time of some modellers here, but is still as strong an straight as the day (well several months) I built it.