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NGS Hunslet Shunter


Bomag
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39 minutes ago, Scottish Modeller said:

Hi Les,

 

The answers to your questions are all in the documentation on the NGS website.

 

http://www.ngaugesociety.org/sandpit/wp-content/uploads/2020/10/NGS-Hunslet-DCC-Manual-v1.01-released-Aug-2020.pdf

 

Thanks

Phil H

 

Then setting CV3 and CV4 to either 0 or 1 should get rid of the coasting and slow start, just as in many other chips.  

 

I still think that as a shunter it is just a b****y nuisance to have coasting, pretty much the same as in my sound-fitted WD saddle tanks.  A loco that coasts gently to a standstill is a serious menace to everything around it in a 5 foot OO layout (and in a 3 foot N-gauge yard)

 

Les

 

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15 hours ago, Les1952 said:

 

I still think that as a shunter it is just a b****y nuisance to have coasting, pretty much the same as in my sound-fitted WD saddle tanks.  A loco that coasts gently to a standstill is a serious menace to everything around it in a 5 foot OO layout (and in a 3 foot N-gauge yard)

 

Les

 

 

Hi there,

 

I have to say I don't really see the problem here.  Just hit F3 to put the loco in Yard Mode and turn the inertia off.  Personally when testing the models I rather liked the inertia as having to think ahead feels more like driving the real thing.

 

cheers

 

Ben A.

Edited by Revolution Ben
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20 hours ago, Les1952 said:

 

 

One niggle.  There isn't a CV list provided with them.  As supplied they have rather a substantial degree of inertia- sufficient coast to render shunting difficult unless they are set to shunt mode using F3.  In shunt mode they are well behaved.  ....  With hindsight would it not have been more sensible for them to have been set in shunt mode as default and to use F3 to switch inertia ON rather than off?    Failing that does anyone know which CV to change to achieve this?

 

 

As pointed out, there is a thorough manual available on the NGS website.  Which would probably add quite a bit to the cost if printed and put in every packet.  

 

The acceleration/deceleration setting is the same as most DCC decoders, as you've found. 

 

I did the CV setup for the loco, almost two years ago.      

The settings in any loco are a compromise between what different users want.  Different throttle designs often cause differences in driving styles. 

What I set out to achieve was having as many features as possible visible to the user, so they then might go and adjust them to their liking, rather than never finding them because they're buried in a CV list.   Hence key to turn off inertia, operate coupling shuffle behaviour, lights dim/bright. 

I couldn't think of a way of inverting the behaviour of the shunt-mode key within the constraints of the underlying decoder firmware.

 

 

- Nigel

 

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4 hours ago, Nigelcliffe said:

 

As pointed out, there is a thorough manual available on the NGS website.  Which would probably add quite a bit to the cost if printed and put in every packet.  

 

The acceleration/deceleration setting is the same as most DCC decoders, as you've found. 

 

I did the CV setup for the loco, almost two years ago.      

The settings in any loco are a compromise between what different users want.  Different throttle designs often cause differences in driving styles. 

What I set out to achieve was having as many features as possible visible to the user, so they then might go and adjust them to their liking, rather than never finding them because they're buried in a CV list.   Hence key to turn off inertia, operate coupling shuffle behaviour, lights dim/bright. 

I couldn't think of a way of inverting the behaviour of the shunt-mode key within the constraints of the underlying decoder firmware.

 

 

- Nigel

 

 

Having ridden quite a few times on the green ones in service (inc no.503) and also on a maroon one at Prince of Wales Colliery at Pontefract I would have said that for at least 90% of the time the prototype was being used there was little displayed in the way of inertia - and what there was tended to be due to slippery track and thus accompanied by the wheels being stopped or even turning the opposite way to the direction the train was moving....

 

As a slight aside one memorable trip (actually on D9555) on NCB metals we were invited to drive, which in turn we did.  When I asked the driver how to apply the brakes he replied  "we don't usually bother as they never work- just put it in reverse".  Significantly when we alighted he had coasted up a slight incline almost to a stop and we hopped off before he opened the throttle again.

 

I did adjust CV3 and CV4 to 1 on all three and this has made them behave much more prototypically.   For a loco to take over 100 feet to stop from a scale 15mph just isn't prototypical.  

 

My locos are driven at exhibitions by a variety of people, and I can't always get a session with them beforehand to explain the different characteristics of each loco, hence a shunter that has to be toggled to shunt using F3 is a bit of a liability when in the hands of inexperienced operators.  I keep a degree of inertia on mainline locos (about a third of that which some chips set by default) but remove it on locos whose purpose is shunting.  

 

All the very best

Les

 

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11 hours ago, John M Upton said:

Presumably for analogue dinosaurs like me, none of this nonsensical bamboozoling techno babble applies?

 

On DC if you switch left it goes left, slowly; if you switch right it goes right, slowly.  Nice and simple.

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Hi all I like your thoughts on the new locos the dinnosors as you put it annolog as apposed to digtal I think we can all now enjoy

which ever mode of operation we like. Im still annolog and i have no intention of changing.

Regards Ray.

PS Ben they eventually moved Evergreen ship (joke).

 

 

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On 28/11/2021 at 21:53, Bomag said:

 

On DC if you switch left it goes left, slowly; if you switch right it goes right, slowly.  Nice and simple.

 

I did panic a little when I connected the first one out of the box and it went the opposite way to the controller knob. then I tried another loco and it did the same.  A quick check  showed said controller had had wires disconnected when borrowed a few weeks back and had been reconnected the wrong way round.  Shows how often I run analogue these days....

 

Why didn't I spot it?  All of my power supplies connect to whatever track they are used on with a Kato uniconnector- coloured  differently for analogue or digital.  Reversing the wires screwed into the back of the controller wouldn't show up until I turned the control knob.

 

Les

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Those remaining of the first batch are now up for sale to members. I just ordered the NCB maroon one. Had a hard time choosing livery but I could only go for one so as to leave space for another one when the other liveries arrive!

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HI All ,

I test ran both of mine and they run really well  ( on good old fashioned DC )

Iam amazed at the size of the lights  (LEDS) used in the Hunslets and also the flashing light on the BS yellow version.

These are better than some of the commecial products on the markel well done NGS development team . l look forward to another  new model if its not to hard to dream .

Regards to all and a MERRY XMAS I can see a few Hunslets going around the Christmas tree.

HAPPY NEWYEAR.  Ray.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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I have to take my hat off to the NGS. This is a delightful model, quite possibly the best running RTR loco out of the box I've ever had. 

 

ngs-hunslet-shunter-a.jpg.44ee343523034fc5300eff0ec45405f1.jpg

Absolutely worth the cost of joining the society! 

 

Tom. 

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

To my surprise 2 more Hunslets arrived today. Lafarge and Harry Needle. These are exquisite models and fabulous in every way. Ben and others involved in bringing them to production can be justifiably proud of the achievement.

cheers,

Ged

 

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Well, a letter awaited me on the doormat this morning asking for the balance for the Caledonian Blue one I pre-ordered so hopefully it is on its way soon!

 

I have to admit I am tempted to get an undecorated one at some point as well...

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Mine arrived this morning but sadly its DOA.  On test it flashed the lights momentarily and did not move. 

 

On sniffing the chassis (Ooooh errr missus!) there is a noticeable electrical burning smell emitting. 

 

It looks good though! 

 

 

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Mystery solved, the siding on which it was being tested does not have a electronic track cleaner feed (specifically for this loco) but the mainline does and erroneously the points were set from the mainline at the time so it looks like I have fried it!!

 

Nuts...

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  • 2 weeks later...
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My British Steel examples arrived this morning. Not run yet, but superb and the detail on these is wonderful. Looking forward to getting things sorted out to be able to use them.  Well done to all involved.

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  • 4 months later...
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Hi,

 

Postie just delivered my BP and Esso Hunslets so the third tranche has arrived, will get out the test loop and have a play.😎

Seems a very long time since I did the same with my  maroon one, very happy day.

Regards, Gerry.

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  • 6 months later...

Has anyone been able to actually shunt prototypically with one of these locos on DCC, for anything more than a minute or two without it stalling?

I've given my two a serious running in, for an hour or so each in both directions, wheels cleaned and my track is spotlessly clean. Even when I pair them up I cannot get them to run without stopping in random places (often on plain line and with no particular pattern). I tried them on my layout at Glasgow and they lasted about 5 minutes before they were taken off... I'm using a Lenz LH100 by the way.

 

I don't understand how even as a pair, with 'stay alive', they can't keep each other running. The NGS stand staff who came to have a look at the situation at the exhibition were also baffled.

If anyone has experienced anything of the like with the Lenz controller, or might have a suggestion as to why it might be occurring, please let me know. 

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