NXEA! Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Hi, A query from a beginner at wiring. I'm currently in the middle of wiring my small layout and I stopped to test what I've done so far. I've plugged my NCE Powercab in along with the panel and screwed in the wired up sections into the back of the panel. The LED light on the panel is on to show power is getting to the track and the cable from the controller is in the right socket on the panel, but my loco (a Hornby L1) which I've already programmed on this controller will not move. Any suggestions? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smokebox Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Are you certain that the loco has a decoder fitted? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NXEA! Posted February 2, 2017 Author Share Posted February 2, 2017 Are you certain that the loco has a decoder fitted? Yes, I stated in my previous post that I've already programmed it. Hornby L1 with the factory fitted Hornby Controller, and I've just tested it on a different bit of track and it works fine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick G Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Any suggestions? What address is it? Was it addressed using short or long address for example is it 3 or 003, there is a difference. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NIK Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 Hi, A query from a beginner at wiring. I'm currently in the middle of wiring my small layout and I stopped to test what I've done so far. I've plugged my NCE Powercab in along with the panel and screwed in the wired up sections into the back of the panel. The LED light on the panel is on to show power is getting to the track and the cable from the controller is in the right socket on the panel, but my loco (a Hornby L1) which I've already programmed on this controller will not move. Any suggestions? Thanks Hi, The LED on the panel doesn't exactly show that power is getting to the track - only that the power is getting to the Power Cab. I think the panel supplied with the Power Cab - PCP - Power Cab Connection Panel doesn't have screwed terminals apart for attaching the front metal panel to the circuit board, it has two pole rectangular plug in connector for the power out to the track. A new Power Cab should come with a mating rectangular connector to screw the wires into. I've plugged the rectangular track connector wrongly in the past so that only one pole is connecting - and partially at that. Providing you have the official NCE power supply you could perhaps place a one pound coin across the track rails and check the red LED on the panels goes out or the power supply buzzes or the LCD display on the Power Cab dims significantly. If the red LED goes out the Power Cab output is getting to the track. If it doesn't/ power supply buzzes/LCD dims then there may be a partial connection between the Power Pro and the track. If nothing changes then probably one or both connections from the Power Pro output is not getting to the track. Did the programming go well?, did the Power Cab report back the DCC address promptly when changing its address?. If it didn't then its probably not been reprogrammed. The NCE manual may help especially if you are using a 'short' address. I've also had problems with dirty wheels and track. Also the DCC decoder specification may not have enough current drive for the loco (I'm assuming its the LNER/BR L1 and not the Triang/Hornby SECR/SR L1). Regards Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete the Elaner Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 How old is the loco? I had 1 loco with an early Hornby DCC decoder; the type which gave Hornby decoders a bad name. It worked fine with a Select but only ran in 1 direction with the PowerCab. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NXEA! Posted February 2, 2017 Author Share Posted February 2, 2017 Thanks for the replies so far everyone. Loco and controller work fine, I've tested them, it's the wiring that's the problem I think. I tried the coin test and it shorted as expected. I think I've found the issue but I'm a wiring novice so if someone could confirm or deny my suspicions then that would be helpful. I'm using scotchlok/suitcase connectors to connect wires, however I think the issue lies with the size of scotchlok connector I'm using. I used some 2.5mm ones I had available, but I think these might be too big for the wire I'm using and creating a poor connection. When I screw one set of power feeds into the controller the loco works fine but when I join two or more sets of feeds with the connectors, only one feed seems to work. Now is that down to the scotchlok connectors being the wrong size and having a poor connection, or something else? In case you haven't noticed, I don't really know much about wiring/electrics! Thanks again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete the Elaner Posted February 2, 2017 Share Posted February 2, 2017 It sounds like you don't have a multimeter. They can be so useful & it will not take you long to pick up the basics. You can buy decent ones for as little as £10 which will be accurate enough for fault-finding. The coin test is very crude & I don't like the idea of deliberately forcing the overload to cut in. It is much better to turn all power off, remove the control system completely & switch your meter to test for resistance. You should have virtually no resistance across all joints. You may even have so little that your meter will read zero. You can test bit by bit & when you see a slight increase, you have found your fault. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium ColinK Posted February 2, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 2, 2017 Interesting comment re multimeter, perhaps one of the magazines could have an article explaing the basics. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NXEA! Posted February 3, 2017 Author Share Posted February 3, 2017 Sorry for not seeing the thread 'til now, I didn't have too much time on my hands today what with a newborn and visiting family. The multimeter suggestion is interesting, I'm sure I spied a cheap one in my local Lidl the other day and tomorrow is shopping day... In the meantime I've ordered some smaller scotchlok connectors in the vain hope that'll improve the connections, but I'm on a work course all next week so I'll report back afterwards. Hopefully I can figure it out soon as a J15 arrived from Hattons today that I desperately want to chip and play with! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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