RMweb Premium Hilux5972 Posted February 16, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 16, 2017 Indeed it puzzles me they get this right on the Bulleid & the Britannia, but not on GW locos ? Due to the different factories I guess. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ian Hargrave Posted February 16, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 16, 2017 Due to the different factories I guess. Or new specification....who knows ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big James Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 The box now says Hornby sandwich instead of Hornby margate. What else has changed I wonder. Big james Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ian Hargrave Posted February 16, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 16, 2017 The box now says Hornby sandwich instead of Hornby margate. What else has changed I wonder. Big james Prawn Mayo or BLT ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big James Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 Hopefully BLT not that keen on prawn mayo that's kinda of a I'm starving and there's no choice sandwich. Big james Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
phil gollin Posted February 16, 2017 Share Posted February 16, 2017 . Rather obviously - Spam (can) Sandwich Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leavesontheline Posted February 17, 2017 Share Posted February 17, 2017 Due to the different factories I guess. I too noticed that the shade of green was much more to my liking that other recent Hornby releases. Okehampton was an improvement on the slightly washed out green they use on GWR locos. I don't know if there is an intentional difference in these colours by Hornby, or if it just different factories or 'manufacturing tolerances' when mixing the paint? I wonder if they specify RAL or Pantone codes or similar? The photo below shows my three most recent Hornby late crest green locos. It is only a phone camera image and slightly over-exposed but it does give a good impression of the difference between: King Edward VIII R3332 (Factory Code SEN59) Okehampton R3203 (Factory Code CHL01) 603 Squadron R3468 (Factory Code TEC05) 603 Squadron is probably my favourite colour, being similar to that used by Bachmann. Okehampton is the 'greenest' if that makes sense! Love all three of them though - even the paler green of the King. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Ian Hargrave Posted February 17, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 17, 2017 Tec 05......you got the contract. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium brushman47544 Posted February 17, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted February 17, 2017 (edited) I too noticed that the shade of green was much more to my liking that other recent Hornby releases. Okehampton was an improvement on the slightly washed out green they use on GWR locos. I don't know if there is an intentional difference in these colours by Hornby, or if it just different factories or 'manufacturing tolerances' when mixing the paint? I wonder if they specify RAL or Pantone codes or similar? The photo below shows my three most recent Hornby late crest green locos. It is only a phone camera image and slightly over-exposed but it does give a good impression of the difference between: King Edward VIII R3332 (Factory Code SEN59) Okehampton R3203 (Factory Code CHL01) 603 Squadron R3468 (Factory Code TEC05) 603 Squadron is probably my favourite colour, being similar to that used by Bachmann. Okehampton is the 'greenest' if that makes sense! Love all three of them though - even the paler green of the King. DSC_1051.jpg 34077 is certainly the closest to the colour as I remember it. You should send the photo to Hornby, or PM it to Islesy on here, and see what they say (and maybe lobby for 34077's colour). I certainly won't be buying anything in BR green that looks like the others. Edited February 17, 2017 by brushman47544 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted February 18, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 18, 2017 The latest Railroad Hall appears to be a darker shade of green too... 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr Brunel Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Is it just me or is the lining a slightly different colour as well? It seems to be more 'orange-y' on Okehampton and the King. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Godfrey Glyn Posted February 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 19, 2017 I was comparing R3203 Bude with R3445 Camelford the other day at Alton Model Centre and Camelford is painted, like Okehampton, with the 'new green' and the lining is also more 'orangey". Godfrey Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leavesontheline Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Is it just me or is the lining a slightly different colour as well? It seems to be more 'orange-y' on Okehampton and the King. It certainly is. On Okehampton in particular it is quite a garish orange, whereas on the new BoB it is a very subdued red. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RFS Posted February 21, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 21, 2017 Got mine today from Hatton's. However, try as I might I cannot get the tender body off to fit a decoder. There are two small screws at the back by the buffer beam but they seem to be wedged solid. I had no problems with 34013 Okehampton last year. Anyone else having problems? EDIT: With further close inspection I can see the screw heads are turning. But I can turn them ad infinitum in both directions. This can only mean the screws have broken internally. Looks like it's going back for a replacement..... Just an update here. Having failed to get the tender body off I returned it to Hatton's for a replacement. No problems this time extracting the screws although one of them did have some glue on it which didn't prevent the body coming off. The body still had to be prised off which suggests there's some glue in the wrong place. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold toboldlygo Posted February 21, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 21, 2017 Just an update here. Having failed to get the tender body off I returned it to Hatton's for a replacement. No problems this time extracting the screws although one of them did have some glue on it which didn't prevent the body coming off. The body still had to be prised off which suggests there's some glue in the wrong place. I've found with all the Bulleid's with the decoder socket in the tender, that have come across my workbench - the tender bodies are a sod to take off. It's the redesigned tender weight that's causing the issue - it's an interference (tight for the non-engineers) fit!!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffers Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 OK I succumbed. Now to fit a decoder if the tender will allow me. And then the brake linkage although Mrs geoffers may do this to prevent the neighbours having to come around in order to complain about a loud-mouthed oik venting very rude spleen in colourful language. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffers Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Well that was a waste of time. Could not get the tender off. Take it back for refund? But bits fell off. I have had enough of this. Time for a new hobby I think. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffers Posted February 21, 2017 Share Posted February 21, 2017 Now sorted though had to resort to levering the tender body off the tender chassis. It has left a little evidence. Mrs geoffers has done a nice job on refitting the bits that were broken off and fitting the brake linkage. Well pleased. Funny thing though - tested on DC ran well. Tested with DCC chip onboard before tender refitted and ran well. All put together now but has a limp (?????). My last Hornby Bulleid methinks as I cannot be bothered with this sort of hassle anymore. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoffers Posted February 22, 2017 Share Posted February 22, 2017 Angst session now over. Limp due to a blob that had settled on the wheel. Now carefully removed and all OK. Beware of the blob else it will rule the world - perhaps it already does. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brittannia Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 Just an update here. Having failed to get the tender body off I returned it to Hatton's for a replacement. No problems this time extracting the screws although one of them did have some glue on it which didn't prevent the body coming off. The body still had to be prised off which suggests there's some glue in the wrong place. I also have just purchased 603 squadron, there appears to be no chance of the tender body coming off the chassis,wasted a good 40 minutes without a glimpse of any daylight between them both.Screws were not a problem they came out easily, It will have to go back to the retailer to see if he or his help can prise the two apart. .Did purchase a Silver A4 last year and had no problem getting the tender off that though Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RFS Posted February 23, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 23, 2017 I also have just purchased 603 squadron, there appears to be no chance of the tender body coming off the chassis,wasted a good 40 minutes without a glimpse of any daylight between them both.Screws were not a problem they came out easily, It will have to go back to the retailer to see if he or his help can prise the two apart. .Did purchase a Silver A4 last year and had no problem getting the tender off that though With my first one I couldn't get the screws out. However they came out easily enough on the second but the tender was still stuck fast. I eventually gave it a hefty pull and it shot off taking a couple of detail parts with it that need to be re-attached. Otherwise no damage done. I did not have this problem with 34013 Okehampton a year ago - in fact it was the easiest DCC fit I think I've had for a long time. Just hoping I don't have the same problem with my pre-ordered 35028 Clan Line, as I suspect dealers won't have replacements ..... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brittannia Posted February 23, 2017 Share Posted February 23, 2017 With my first one I couldn't get the screws out. However they came out easily enough on the second but the tender was still stuck fast. I eventually gave it a hefty pull and it shot off taking a couple of detail parts with it that need to be re-attached. Otherwise no damage done. I did not have this problem with 34013 Okehampton a year ago - in fact it was the easiest DCC fit I think I've had for a long time. Just hoping I don't have the same problem with my pre-ordered 35028 Clan Line, as I suspect dealers won't have replacements ..... I purchased the very first "China" Clan Line had to hard wire the decoder into the Locomotive body, its been long gone now though [ as has the retailer ] had good use out of it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brittannia Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Finally managed to get the tender top off, thanks to Clearwater's tip of releasing the back of the tender, I used a craft knife and managed to get enough leverage to insert the blade and run it across, it then with a little force came away, just a couple of steps to put back Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sawyermodels Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 We DCC fitted one for a customer. Remove the two screws at the rear of the tender. Look at the front end of the tender where the male female socket is and either side you'll see to clips. These need prising back with a small flat head screwdriver then the tender body comes off. Be careful though as the tender body won't come off completely as detailing parts go through it. All we did was spin the body out of the way, pop chip in, test and programme to desired number and then reassemble. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVE1562 Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Just an update here. Having failed to get the tender body off I returned it to Hatton's for a replacement. No problems this time extracting the screws although one of them did have some glue on it which didn't prevent the body coming off. The body still had to be prised off which suggests there's some glue in the wrong place. Had the same problem....trying to fit a decoder in a friends loco,managed to remove the screws but the body was stuck fast, took a while but got there with no damage....... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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