Jump to content
 

Another Beyer Garratt 0-4-4-0


Recommended Posts

A little more progress:  

 

there’s a pivot for the handbrake which seems to locate it reasonably, though I’m not 100% certain, it seems a bit of a balancing act between it being too high relative to the cab side cutout, and the angle of the shaft being too shallow, and the hole in the cab front being wrong...  

 

image.jpg.7825995d8a00e8e74ce5b5ffbeba8b0c.jpg

 

doesn’t look too bad.

 

Meanwhile, on the other side of the cab, we have the base for what I think are the sanding levers.  
 

image.jpg.18e98d10ac20f6a25f223a8bd548c59a.jpg
 

The reverser which is apparently mounted on the cab side sheet, the cab side shutters with a little tank thing (reservoir for oil for hydraulic reverser lock?) and some pipework to add, and something that might be the steam brake lever to be mounted on the backhead.

 

and a couple of oil cans and what looks like a plastic glass of creme de menthe!
 

DA419BFC-FA53-40B7-AA2B-43D0C5D1A25F.jpeg.25c2d4b0bc79e9ec7ca9cb1d9ae7eab0.jpeg
 

(image cropped from one of Phil Parker’s Flickr photo album, I hope he considers the joke to be fair use!  Joking aside, Phil’s album is hugely useful to anyone building one of these beasts, and he is owed a debt of gratitude for posting them online)


https://www.flickr.com/photos/45131642@N00/albums/72157640174384343/with/12150394666/

 

cheers!

Simon

 

 

 

 

Edited by Simond
Added link
  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

I think that if I stick with this, I might make a decent fist of it!

 

image.jpg.efea55efceccabae56c7d9470deb3183.jpg
 

I think I’ve made the regulator stuffing box a bit too chunky but I’m well pleased with the levers.  
 

Side shutters and steam brake, a couple of handwheels, whistle valve & pressure gauge, and a stiffener on the inside at the back, and a driver’s seat, and the cab is pretty much sorted.

 

unhappily, my 9 month old Ersa soldering iron has turned up its toes.  Will request a replacement tomorrow, hopefully will have it before the holidays.

 

Season’s greetings to all!

Simon

Edited by Simond
  • Like 3
  • Craftsmanship/clever 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Cab basically sorted...

 

image.jpg.7ef85eb98279c8fdfc09f80832a22d66.jpg
 

image.jpg.a1ab7d3ba7ad0f7df1887cbb1a171831.jpg

 

need to fix a pressure gauge and two handwheels to the inside of the front sheet, and there’s some kind of pipe up the inside at the rear to add.  
 

And a couple of pipes here & there.  Tomorrow!
 

I had to make two steam brake valves before I was happy, but hey it’s only time and a few pence of brass.

 

atb

Simon

 

Edited by Simond
  • Like 5
  • Craftsmanship/clever 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, just to show willing...

 

99D45FC9-6DDC-4BC6-950A-DE47523007EA.jpeg.f2c2dc3b12676c4df3ec90d50de53e01.jpeg
 

The boiler and cab are a unit, and as you can see, have been primed.  The cab interior fittings have also been part painted, might get the backhead finished tonight.


The two tanks are complete other than their lifting rings, and I have achieved a major step in that I now have fixings between the tanks and the engine chassis.  Necessary because I built the tanks on the engine footplates, rather than fix the footplates to the frames and screw the tanks on per the kit design.  Getting a fixing in was a bit of a struggle, as there’s very little room in the tanks that isn’t already taken up with motor, but I have, finally, succeeded.  One more roadblock sorted.
 

The eagle-eyed will spot that the water feed pipes & manifold, and the exhaust from the rear engine, have also been fitted, as have the reversing engine and its cranks, on t’other side.  I also fitted the footplate braces.  Once I have sorted out the links between reverser and cranks, and the brakes linkages, the bridge can likewise be primed.

 

And that, basically leaves the valve gear and engine brakes (and a load of painting and weathering) to do.

 

Happy New Year!

Simon

 


 

  • Like 7
Link to post
Share on other sites

Brake linkages made.  For some reason the handbrake lever and spindle was not in my box of bits, not sure if they were missing, or I lost them, but an enjoyable, if fiddly, few hours results in this: 

 

image.jpg.7ffd3a2b117e35b6d562434f73cf36fb.jpg
 

the “hollow link” attached to the lever will fit the handbrake spindle.  Down below, the kit’s whitemetal brake rocker has been replaced by a brass version, with n/s clevis attached both ends.  I can solder pull rods when I refit the exhaust pipe which suffered an accidental contact from a hot soldering iron.  I may replace it with brass, as I don’t have any 3.2 / 1/8” copper.

 

I can pop the links on the reverser tomorrow, and with a bit of luck, get it primed.

 

Didn’t do anything with the cab this evening.

 

cheers all

Simon

 

 

Edited by Simond
  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Cab details, Dai Bach, the fireman, handbrake, backhead, reverser & sanding and Huw the driver.

 

image.jpg.ce46c7fe0d430c1ac2170748e93fde0f.jpg
 

the poor old fireman does have trouble with his roses.

 

atb

Simon

 

Edited by Simond
  • Like 5
  • Craftsmanship/clever 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Simond said:

Dai Bach

 

3 hours ago, Simond said:

his roses.

 

I thought it was only trees that were affected with that ?

 

Joshing apart, some good progress with the build Simon....still watching !

 

Stay safe and well.

 

G

  • Thanks 1
  • Funny 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, what have I not made or bought?  I used the following from the kit:

 

Cab, boiler, smokebox, tanks, footplates, bridge deck, cylinder wrappers, firebox lower & ashpan, cab steps, and a decent selection of brass & whitemetal bits.  And plenty of wire, and lots of fret etch.

 

I have made:

 

the engine frames & coupling rods, firebox, smokebox saddle, and innumerable small details,

 

and I bought:

 

motors, gearboxes, DCC kit, hornblocks, wheels & axles, couplings, and buffers.

 

Thinking about the bits I bought, I’d probably have bought them for any kit (though generally only the one motor!).  The bits I’ve made were simply because the efforts of fixing what was supplied seemed to me to be more hassle than making new.  Kits should not be supplied with symmetric components that aren’t.  They should assemble correctly, and excepting anything listed on the outside of the box, should be complete.  This kit was a dog’s breakfast in many respects, but to be fair, I knew that before starting.

 

I suspect I’ll make quite a lot of the valve gear too.  As I remarked, depending on your point of view, you either do, or don’t, get your money’s worth with this kit.

 

atb

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

Starting to play with paint...

 

image.jpg.6ead7c4b91e4fe62ac531dbf13d23bb2.jpg

 

need lifting rings on rear tank, and to go to Halfords.

 

what do we think?  Not green, I’ve got a lot of green locos, and this one is P.O., so black, dark red, or dark blue?

 

I’m inclined to a maroon...

 

atb

Simon

Link to post
Share on other sites

Guest Isambarduk
4 hours ago, rockershovel said:

I can’t help feeling that it would have been easier to start from scratch? 

 

Ha!  From our past experience, I believe that Simon and I adopt the same philosphy:

  • Treat every kit, even the best ones, as an aid to scratch-building, recognise that some kits are more of an aid than other and concede that some are just no aid at all!

I think Simon did start with an aid, in this case.

 

David

 

 

 

2 hours ago, Simond said:

I’m inclined to a maroon...

Approved.  Go for it!

Link to post
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Simond said:

Starting to play with paint...

 

what do we think?  Not green, I’ve got a lot of green locos, and this one is P.O., so black, dark red, or dark blue?

 

I’m inclined to a maroon...

 

atb

Simon

 

Whilst blue is my favourite colour (and I did like the lined BR express passenger blue livery that 'Tornado' appeared in), I must say I do like the WHR Maroon and Black with Yellow lining round the Maroon.  The old LT Pannier scheme (with red side rods) was attractive as well, so no pressure!!   ;-)

 

Edited by steveNCB7754
Link to post
Share on other sites

Cheat on the hanging bars on the engines.  There is a vertical tapered handrail with a knob on top for the shunter, on the left side of each engine.  There were w/m castings which won’t last 5 minutes in the kit.  As you can see the hanging bar is fitted to both sides of the engine footplate inboard of the cylinders (it should go right through, but clearances don’t admit...).  Outboard of the cylinder on the left, I have put in a bit of thick brass which I have tapped 10 BA, and into which I shall screw a tapered brass handrail (once I’ve made an acceptable pair thereof).

 

anyway, this is the bunker/tank for the rear engine finished, and ready for primer.


image.jpg.f02c431223a73a9321b3eaf08328124d.jpg


image.jpg.13d934509096daaf2dd8217b9a2f154f.jpg
 

a job for tomorrow, I hope!

 

g’night

Simon

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...