sb67 Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 I've been looking at some scalscenes kits and wondered what people use to print windows on? I googled transparency film and was a bit baffled with what came up. Thanks Steve. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miss Prism Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 Try 'overhead projector film'. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter220950 Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 (edited) Or acetate film, available in different thicknesses, from Amazon, Ebay, Hobby craft etc. I used to use it to line window frames etc. on with a bow pen to get white rather than printing black on o/H film. Peter Edited February 19, 2017 by peter220950 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Davis Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 The type you need will also depend on what type of printer you are using, there are separate films for inkjet and laser printers. Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted February 19, 2017 Author Share Posted February 19, 2017 got a HP 7520 all in one printer, I think it's inkjet. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Davis Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 It is inkjet, amazon have 10 sheets for £4.74 but you could probably find it cheaper with a quick search. A4 OHP Inkjet Transparency Film Sheets 135 micron Instant Dry should get the desired result Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 I use laser OHP transparencies, as I have laser printers, and have been happy with the results. I think it may be a bit elusive, as overhead projectors seem to be ancient technology now. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Davis Posted February 19, 2017 Share Posted February 19, 2017 I use the laser ones too, for the same reason, that's how I found out that there was difference. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dasatcopthorne Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I use the laser ones too, for the same reason, that's how I found out that there was difference. I use the Tesco ones for I jet. However, my latest printer won't detect transparency film but I found the trick is to feed the film in with a sheet of plain paper behind it. Job done. Dave. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris GH Posted July 29, 2017 Share Posted July 29, 2017 I get mine from Railwayscenics When printing make sure you put the sheets in the right side up as some printers turn the sheets over when they go through the printer. I use a HP printer which does this. Always get the print on the rough side of the sheet as the ink will smudge if printed on the smooth side 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanBasten Posted January 13, 2020 Share Posted January 13, 2020 On 19/02/2017 at 18:09, BG John said: I use laser OHP transparencies, as I have laser printers, and have been happy with the results. I think it may be a bit elusive, as overhead projectors seem to be ancient technology now. Same as you, and I was surprised from the results (I worked on the Scalescenes "Hornby industrial glasse"s, rescaled to N gauge)... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithMacdonald Posted January 21, 2020 Share Posted January 21, 2020 I just popped into The Works in the Great Western Outlet Village to see if they have clear acetate sheets (or an equivalent). They don't, but I did pick up 30 sheets of "high transparency" (their description) A4 60gsm Tracing Paper for £2. 60gsm might be a bit flimsy, but I'm going to have an experiment and try and print windows on it. Walking past several of the old GWR buildings on the way, I noticed that most of the woodwork is a cream or off-white colour. Also, I noticed that in bright daylight, I couldn't see through many of the windows at all. To my naked eye, they appeared to have a very glossy dark blue colour. So I'm wondering ... why not print "windows" as dark blue "glass" on a high gloss white paper? Just an idea... 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted January 22, 2020 Author Share Posted January 22, 2020 Be interesting to see your results Keith. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted January 22, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 22, 2020 See the buildings on Little Muddle. None have any 'glass' just glossy black card. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Edward Posted January 24, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 24, 2020 The late Allan Downes said, I think somewhere on this forum, that he had stopped glazing his models and no one had ever noticed. Mind you looking at his stunning creations, makes you awestruck anyway. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithMacdonald Posted February 29, 2020 Share Posted February 29, 2020 On 22/01/2020 at 11:32, sb67 said: Be interesting to see your results Keith. Apologies for the delay in responding, but the results are in ... As an experiment, I've printed the skylights from the last page of the ScaleScenes Island Platform, onto a sheet of A4 60gsm Tracing Paper. Here's the print-out on top of a blank sheet of white paper, so you can see how transparent it seems (or not). I've used the "dirty" skylights. I touched-up the black border with a permanent marker pen, and made it one mm thicker as well. A little more than that might have been better? 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithMacdonald Posted March 1, 2020 Share Posted March 1, 2020 A poorly focused picture at a poor angle, of a temporary station setting. But it shows the light through the skylight made from the tracing pape r. It works quite well, but the tracing paper is only 60gsm, so perhaps it would look better if it was stuck to stiffer card first? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted March 3, 2020 Share Posted March 3, 2020 I went to Ryman's for my laser acetate to make sure I got the correct type to go through a laser/colour photocopier. At £15 for ten sheets it wasn't cheap but at least now I can search for a better price online. The biggest issue would be printing out a whole A4 sheet for just a few windows - need to find out how to combine the glazing sheets from several kits to fit on one page and not have as much waste. Hours of fun! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium JimFin Posted March 3, 2020 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 3, 2020 4 hours ago, SteveyDee68 said: The biggest issue would be printing out a whole A4 sheet for just a few windows - need to find out how to combine the glazing sheets from several kits to fit on one page and not have as much waste. Bit of lateral thinking here - print the windows in a line across the sheet and cut off the whole top strip, return the slightly shorter sheet to the paper hopper ready for the next row. With the configuration of most printer rollers you can probably get it down to about the last 2 inches before the printer rejects it. experiment with a page of A4 copy paper to see exactly how your printer behaves, I use the same technique with decal paper. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cornholio Posted March 4, 2020 Share Posted March 4, 2020 (edited) On 03/03/2020 at 21:06, JimFin said: Bit of lateral thinking here - print the windows in a line across the sheet and cut off the whole top strip, return the slightly shorter sheet to the paper hopper ready for the next row. With the configuration of most printer rollers you can probably get it down to about the last 2 inches before the printer rejects it. experiment with a page of A4 copy paper to see exactly how your printer behaves, I use the same technique with decal paper. My Canon inkjet printer doesn't like collecting OHP film from the paper tray, it always gets itself in a flap, invariably jamming in the process. I now use a thin strip of masking tape along the top edge to attach a carrier sheet of normal A4 paper to the back of the film. This allows the printer to grip the film properly. This idea can be combined with @JimFin's suggestion to print on off-cuts. As far as the printer knows, it's still printing on an A4 sheet. This allows you to use every last scrap of film, should you so desire. Edited March 4, 2020 by Cornholio 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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