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Southern Railway Modelling - Miscellaneous Project work


Jack P
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On 04/10/2021 at 01:13, Jack Benson said:

Hi Jack, 

 

Please, share the methods for weathering your GBL, I also own this excellent model and am much impressed.

 

And, where do you source SOUTHERN decals for tenders…….?

 

 

Thanks and StaySafe

 

Hey Jack, 

 

Thanks for that! The weathering is a combination of airbrushing and streaking with white spirit and then a little cleaning up and some further airbrushing for the details. I usually go over the roof and parts of the bogie with powders. 

 

Southern branding - my preferred transfers are HMRS, but in a pinch I've used Fox waterslide - I don't rate them as highly as HMRS stuff though.

 

I hope that helps!

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13 hours ago, Jack P said:

Update!

 

My first EM 'Conversion'

 

51574874605_80bc9440b9_h.jpg

 

That's EMGS Peco bullhead track, Alan gibson bogie wheels with brass tube cut to length as spacers, and spaced out Hornby driving wheels.

I might revisit that arrangement, and swap the driving wheels for some of the appropriate type, but for now this works. 

I actually pulled the drivers off their axles and padded them out to the correct b2b with washers, re-quartering was easy enough by eye. 

Some filing/scraping away of the backs of the brake blocks was needed, but nothing drastic, all the pick-ups reach the wheels with a bit of tweaking. 

 

The actual loco itself had a bath in some lacquer thinners. It was previously 1551, which was pretty much the only H allocated to Nine Elms - we want a Stewarts Lane allocation.

I've also been wanting to re-do the paint jobs on these, as they're very orange peely.

 

51573140807_db8868eea4_h.jpg

51574190503_1d3349900c_h.jpg

 

Stripped & back together, unfortunately the pipes from the clack valves suffered and have been replaced with some brass wire bent to shape and glued in place. 

Front buffers removed and swapped for Kean Maygib SECR pattern ones.

She will likely end up as 1321.

 

Work has now started on trying to clear my shelves of half/unfinished projects and to dispose of some stuff that is way out of scope (anyone wanna buy a Skye Bogie kit? - and who thought that was a good idea?!)

 

EM stuff will continue over time, the conversion of some stock will keep RTR wheels, others, full replacement wheels. 

 

That's all for now!

So presumably the conversion was pretty simple then? It's one of those things I've considered several times, but been put off by the cost of having to rewheel all of my locos (or worse, rechassis them, as I've still yet to build an actual working chassis...), so if at least some could be done using the existing OO wheels, it'd be somewhat more feasible...

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  • 4 weeks later...
On 12/10/2021 at 01:52, Nick C said:

So presumably the conversion was pretty simple then? It's one of those things I've considered several times, but been put off by the cost of having to rewheel all of my locos (or worse, rechassis them, as I've still yet to build an actual working chassis...), so if at least some could be done using the existing OO wheels, it'd be somewhat more feasible...

 

Much simpler than I originally thought too. I mean you do need to accept the compromise that the chassis is much thinner than it would be if it was built to EM standards. 

You could probably even use the bogie wheels again, but I decided to use AG ones as I had them.

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Hi Jack forgot say when you first showed your EM conversion well done. Just as a matter of interest did you use a wheel puller to take the drivers off. I also have an H class and an M7 that I want to convert these like your H will be my first EM conversions.

 

Keith

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13 hours ago, KeithHC said:

Hi Jack forgot say when you first showed your EM conversion well done. Just as a matter of interest did you use a wheel puller to take the drivers off. I also have an H class and an M7 that I want to convert these like your H will be my first EM conversions.

 

Keith

 

Hey Keith, 

 

No I didn't use a wheel puller - the H especially would probably present an issue, in that the wheel has an axle cover molded on. 

I literally just dropped the wheels out and pulled them by hand. 

I originally just pulled the wheels out on the Hornby axles, which are splined. I eventually ended up replacing the Hornby axles with standard 2mm EM axles (keyed with a file to take the gear wheel) and then just quartered them by eye. 

I think if I had the option of using replacement wheels, I would, I'm not a huge fan of the Hornby coupling rods. Maybe I'll call Colin at AG and see if he'll produce the wheels with a 2mm axle?

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Update!

 

I'm trying to use the jump to EM as a way of managing my projects.

I've definitely arrived at an impasse - almost all of my models are in some state of being half finished, and I really don't like it.

This way, I can make sure I have everything I need for a project before I start and being able to sit down and see a job through to completion.

 

Progress on the W is going well. 

Clearance with the rods is all sorted, I used a shortened Markits 'deluxe' crankpin on the front driver which sits much lower than the AG nut.

A lathe to turn it down would be much more accurate than my method, but it works.

 

Most excitingly, paint and wheels!

 

51651314675_caa48fe87b_b.jpg

 

The chassis has had it's first coat of paint and the wheels have had their balance weights fitted.

I also reduced the depth of some washers and added them to the faces, this better represents the wheels as they are on the prototype.

Will you notice under a layer of paint as motion whirrs around? Probably not.. but I know it's there!

 

51650687123_d90eecef37_b.jpg

 

WD knobs arrived and V.2 of the draincocks have been added.

 

51651119969_4cea263cea_b.jpg

 

Rear bogie brakes added, still needs some cosmetic pipework etc, but the bogie has had its first coat of paint.

 

51650453561_38469158a8_b.jpg

 

Most importantly, DLT's pickups have be re-attached and work perfectly.

The loco runs very sweetly. Once all is said and done it should weigh close to 300g.

 

The H has had it's number allocated and is now ready for weathering. I'll make sure to get some photos of this at some stage. 

 

Onto the W's valve gear next!

Edited by Jack P
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Work continues.


The W's valve gear is now complete.

 

51661945272_f277267035_b.jpg

 

I'm still not totally happy with the end result, which looks chunky and out of scale, but it's much better than it was!

Overall the rebuild has been well worth it, the running conversion to EM also fills me with immense joy!

I still am not sure what to do about a whistle manifold. No decent Maunsell ones seem to be available anywhere - any suggestions?

 

Here's the H!

 

51662754326_e3b36e6b33_b.jpg

 

She's developed an issue that I can only diagnose as 'chunky' running.

Not present when the rods are off, so I'm inclined to think they may be the culprit. 

Although possibly my quartering is out. Doesn't look like it though. Perhaps swapping to Gibson wheels and rods is the most logical option?

 

Dapol Spares.

 

51661945262_39f95569ba_b.jpg

 

A few spare bits have arrived. My other D will have a body swap to allow it to be one of the different cab window variants.

The spare tender is going to go behind the E.

David at Ultrascale has produced some replacement 1/8th bearings + axle gear for the D chassis, and @Chuffer Davies is working on some plastic bushes for the Dapol wheels. 

The end result should allow me to use the Dapol wheels and chassis, and space everything out to EM, while using a slightly bigger axle. 

I'll need Gibson tender wheels, but that should be comparatively straightforward.

 

3D prints!

 

51661896132_7ff2bab038_b.jpg

 

I managed to get my first 3D print completed over the weekend, which is very exciting.

This is the Phrozen 'rook' A tester STL they provide. 

@BrightonBoi and I are going to now start working on other CAD designs. Both for 3D printing and etching. 

 

That's all for now!

Edited by Jack P
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Hi Jack

I must have missed something over this thread, is your layout EM already or are you branching out to the gauge?

The W is looking good, not sure the rods look chunky, but that may my eyesight! ;)
As far as the H is concerned, unless you have already catered for this, are the two coupling rods the same, have they inadvertently swapped sides perhaps?

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6 hours ago, gz3xzf said:

Hi Jack

I must have missed something over this thread, is your layout EM already or are you branching out to the gauge?

The W is looking good, not sure the rods look chunky, but that may my eyesight! ;)
As far as the H is concerned, unless you have already catered for this, are the two coupling rods the same, have they inadvertently swapped sides perhaps?

 

Hey Bryan, 

Thanks for your kind words!

 

No, you haven't missed some monumental layout transformation. 

This is mainly because I don't actually have a layout! Any layout pictures/videos you've seen are all from my ex-model club.

 

The rods on the W definitely look better than they did, chemical blackening will only further improve that. 

 

I've tried the rods for the H on both sides, but no luck. 

I'll keep tinkering and see where I end up. absolute worst case is trying to obtain a SEF H chassis and building that.

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Hello Jack,

 

I’m as sure as I can be that the quartering of the wheels is off. Assuming it worked properly in 00, the only thing you’ve changed is the wheels for EM which has meant the wheels came off the axles. My guess is that one has gone back on one spline over relative to the other. That’s a bit harder to correct than with, say, a Gibson wheel which you could twist but should be possible. So plan A would be to look at that, plan B replacement drivers. 
 

Adam

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14 hours ago, Adam said:

My guess is that one has gone back on one spline over relative to the other. That’s a bit harder to correct than with, say, a Gibson wheel which you could twist but should be possible.

 

You're probably not wrong Adam!

 

I actually substituted the Hornby axles out for 2mm AG EM axles, as they really weren't log enough. I'll have a go trying to re-quarter them, (which should be as easy as twisting). If that doesn't work i'll go back to the Hornby axles and see how I go from there. 

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Another Milestone in the journey, My first compensated chassis.

I was going to start with the Z chassis, but it's a non symmetrical 4 axle wheelbase, I thought this might be a little easier.

 

51684646351_6f5c7da31f_b.jpg

51683860377_4f82f5a2c7_b.jpg

 

It's destined to go under an O1, but there's still a fair bit to do, this is just the bare bones.

Next I need to work out what the best drive option will be. 

I had initially thought there would be enough room to fit a small HL coreless motor inside the firebox driving from the centre axle, but that's looking less likely. 

A good candidate for tender motor driving the rear axle via a shaft!

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Congratulations on a significant milestone on the way to the dark side!   :-)

P9110323.JPG.adcf68d6f5529739ca7057251c5416f6.JPG

This is the compensated chassis for an EM Gauge Jidenco Black Motor with the M1220 motor vertically in the etched firebox driving the centre axle.  That worked out well, although I made things more difficult for myself than I needed to by putting the twin beams at the rear - fail to plan, plan to fail!  The O1 is a smaller beast than the 700, but the weight diagrams in Russell indicate that in 4mm scale top of boiler to wheel centre line for an O1 is only 1mm less than the 700, so it might still be an option.  Roadrunners are smaller than the Multibox that I used and that should help too.

Edited by Steve Smith
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