Southern Railway Modelling - Miscellaneous Project work

[Tony Teague]

On 07/04/2020 at 22:34, AVS1998 said:

 

I think we're all going a little stir crazy over here in the UK... 

 

 

I know I am!

[Nick C]

7 hours ago, Tony Teague said:

 

I know I am!

I'm not. 'going' would imply a state of normality beforehand...

[sem34090]

And this man is training to be a signalman?!

 

 

(Sorry Nick, couldn't resist.)

Edited April 9, 2020 by sem34090

[Jack P]

  

On 08/04/2020 at 09:34, AVS1998 said:

 

Just to update you, Jack, it would appear the cars that are eligible for you at this time, as Parlour cars were;

 

Leghorn, Palermo, Sapphire, Savona, Sorrento (Although I have a feeling the last two became Kitchens at some point during the 30s, I may be wrong, though). The ex-SECR eight-wheelers were used all over the place, probably due to their diminutive size compared to other cars, and often were used on Southampton and Portsmouth boat trains, the two Belles, Brighton trains and anything to the Kent Coast. 

 

I believe I'm right in saying that even postwar, Pullmans would be operated on any part of the network as either a single Kitchen or at least a Kit-Parlour pairing within a set, most likely a First and Third, I'd say, given the post-war tightening of purse-strings. They'd be formed between the First and Third portions of the train, so there was equal access from either class. 

 

If I'm supplying false information, someone please flag it! Hopefully this helps a little. 

 

How're you doing lately, hopefully New Zealand's lockdown isn't affecting you too badly. I think we're all going a little stir crazy over here in the UK... 

 

- Alex 

 

Thank you so much for that Alex! Would I be correct in thinking that Topaz would not be part of that list? I also assume that whatever the name, she would be in Pullman's own umber and cream?

 

I'm not losing it (yet), The lockdown is pretty full on, there's a fantastic photo of one of the busiest junctions in wellington at 7:30 on the first morning of the lockdown:

 

 

I've manged to get a bit of stuff done, have I completed any projects I hear you asking - god no. But I have started some new ones!

 

My Replacement Sprog DCC controller arrived, so I made the effort to pull all my locos out and go through as many of them as possible and chip them.

 

 

I've now made a full roster of the fleet so far. Against each locomotive is listed ideal decoder type, running issues, as well as work required to complete. I now have quite a full list, but it's step one of many on the journey to helping me clear the backlog.

 

3 of my favourite tank locos on the rolling road during testing.

 

 

 

 

I've also made a start on weathering coaches!

 

 

 

The repainted Ex-LSWR Gate Stock set was my guinea pig. They were given a coat of gloss varnish, followed by a black wash and a light misting with the airbrush. I still need to work on tonal variety, as I think that's the one thing that's letting down the weathering on the underframes, they are far too uniform - more experimentation with paint is needed. The non-driving coach is missing its bufferheads on the far end, so I need to try and find some appropriate sprung buffers to substitute in. I had been thinking maybe something from the old midland area might suit - if anyone has any suggestions, please let me know!

 

Another kit arrived, very excited about this one, as it will add some variation to the many southern vans I am amassing.

 

 

I've also

- Added 3 M7's to the fleet, one with the sandboxes below the running plate, and two long framed variants. They are the 'Ghost engines' in the photo above, all having been modified in some way or another, and primed.

- Managed to find a '1940: Return from Dunkirk' set, as i've been wanting some olive coaches and a 700, I jumped at the opportunity, the 700 has been stripped, repainted and glossed and is now waiting for transfers.

- Got around to renaming my jubilee to 5605 'Cyprus', and now just need my HMRS order to arrive with the correct LMS transfers for her to be renumbered.

- Added a Maunsell flat sided tender variant S15 to the fleet, she has been stripped, smokebox number-plate removed and is waiting to be given a coat of black

- Made significant progress on my Maunsell coach conversion into a Non-descript Saloon

- Built the bogies for the LBSC Brake coach, and am not pondering how the tackle the roof.

 

I think the thing I've made the most progress with, has to be my photo diorama. 

 

 

 

No, not this one!

 

This one:

 

 

 

 

 

 

Started off the weekend with a pile off bits, and managed to end the weekend with this. I'll be honest, i'm not super happy with it, but it is my first time building any scenery. Nothing has been painted yet, I need to wait until i'm at the final stages before painting, but i'm hoping that once the rails are down, ash ballast in place, and the structures are painted and weathered, it will be good enough to take photos on. 

 

Anyways, that's all i've got for now!

 

I'd love to see what you guys are upto, please feel free to post links to your content, or photos of what's on your workbench!

 

Bye for now!

 

Edited April 12, 2020 by Jack P

[sem34090]

Indeed, a fleet to envy.

 

I'm intrigued about NAAFI Pullmans though... Do you have a bit more on those? I have an idea forming...

[Tony Teague]

My word Jack you have been busy!

And there's plenty to show for it, unlike my LED soldering activity, but I'm nearly done.

Like the cat - looks busy!!

On the gate stock weathering, why not just use some powders? A bit of track dirt / earth / mud will bring up the rivet detail, perhaps some dusty stuff in patches on the foot-boards where they get used, and maybe a bit of grease around axle boxes and brake linkages?

The CRT elephant / scenery van is a nice model - here is mine which was beautifully built for me by Chris White, and I'm ashamed to say is still without couplings and some of the weathering treatment that I have just described!

 

 

Have you had a go yet at the LSWR 6 wheeler to go with your breakdown train? I am halfway through mine and have come up against a couple of issues.

Tony

[SD85]

I love your workbench setup Jack, would like something similar myself somepoint.

 

Regarding weathering, I use powders but they do need fixing. I'm not sure what to use for that TBH, would artists fixative do?

[Tony Teague]

1 hour ago, SD85 said:

I love your workbench setup Jack, would like something similar myself somepoint.

 

Regarding weathering, I use powders but they do need fixing. I'm not sure what to use for that TBH, would artists fixative do?

 

So long as the model has previously been coated in something like Testor's Dullcote, then good quality weathering powders such as MIG etc, will stick to it and stay there.

[Sophia NSE]

I've used hairspray and eyeshadow before, though I do recommend a non glittery one!

[chuffinghell]

28 minutes ago, Sophia NSE said:

.....though I do recommend a non glittery one!

Now you tell us 

[chuffinghell]

@SD85 I’ve found that after applying the weathering powders to a dry surface a mist coat of isopropyl (using an airbrush) helps to fix the powder prior to adding any varnish

 

 

Edited April 13, 2020 by chuffinghell

[Jack P]

On 13/04/2020 at 19:06, Tony Teague said:

Have you had a go yet at the LSWR 6 wheeler to go with your breakdown train? I am halfway through mine and have come up against a couple of issues

 

I haven't yet Mr T, still need to order the correct one. What issues are you facing?

[Jack P]

On 14/04/2020 at 07:21, SD85 said:

I love your workbench setup Jack, would like something similar myself somepoint.

 

Regarding weathering, I use powders but they do need fixing. I'm not sure what to use for that TBH, would artists fixative do?

 

Thank you! It's pretty compact (compared to some) but it offers me all that I need, plenty of happy evenings spent listening/watching Railway roundabout and other old steam videos while modelling!

 

On 14/04/2020 at 08:45, Sophia NSE said:

I've used hairspray and eyeshadow before, though I do recommend a non glittery one!

 

Similar principle i'd think! Maybe I could raid the girlfriends makeup draw next time I run out!

 

(of weathering powder)

 

On 14/04/2020 at 09:17, chuffinghell said:

@SD85 I’ve found that after applying the weathering powders to a dry surface a mist coat of isopropyl (using an airbrush) helps to fix the powder prior to adding any varnish

 

 

Interesting, I only use powders sparingly, so I haven't had heaps of experience with them. I usually only use them to represent that rusty/heat stain effect you get on the front lower part of smokeboxes, and ash/soot that ends up on the front of the footplate when the crew clean the smokebox out. I've never had issues with them not sticking, and don't fix them down with anything after.

 

Hope everyone is staying sane during quarantine! New Zealand has recently moved into Level 2 of our lockdown plan - Click here for detailed info on what levels mean, if you're interested!

 

Personally, things did not go fantastically well during lockdown. I can count my blessings that I had a roof over my head and I'm still working (things are actually very busy work wise at the moment). Some disagreements with the people we lived with meant that my partner and I relocated to a new place (closer to the city centre, and a 10 minute walk to work!). Things got pretty stressful for a while, but we are slowly adjusting to being in a new place, on our own and getting everything set up!

 

Same workbench setup, just around the other way, more space for modelling is never a bad thing!

 

 

Just after we arrived here, some of my isolation purchases arrived, 3 LNER Fish/fruit vans, and an open LNER wagon, plus a DMR K1 Kit, complete with motor, gearbox and wheels, and lining/number transfers! I didn't change region for those who are worried, but they were extremely hard to pass up on, the K1 was the sum total of £60!

 

This was something a little more in keeping with the flavour of this thread, that I completed pre lockdown

 

 

Heavily glossed, and only given the most basic of weathering, picking out the non glossy areas in a mucky colour. She does need more attention, as she shouldn't be this clean! readers of this thread from the beginning may remember that I actually had a radial previously, however it ran like a bag of ____, and was subsequently disposed of (sold). The Hornby version is brilliant, a few little modifications have been done, like the front bogie having the guard irons removed and mounted to the buffer beam,  As per most of my locos, she is now waiting for the rest of the detailing work (coal, crew, lamps, tools, misc).

 

I'm seemingly drawn back across battle lines to Ex-LSWR locos, I previously had 3 M7's, which were repainted/weathered/sold. I have now acquired 3 more M7's, this time two of which are backdated Br examples that are long-frame push/pull fitted. 

 

 

They have all been painted, and given the most basic of weathering jobs. But only this one (31) has had transfers applied, coz I ran out of transfers! More still to do, but they look great! Currently waiting on some decoders to arrive so I can chip them. does anyone have suggestions for a decoder that doesn't warrant the removal of one of the side tank weights?

 

I've only just checked SEMG, which doesn't list 31 as being push/pull fitted. So that number will need to be changed! 

 

Continuing the Ex-LSWR theme, I managed to get my 700 to the stage where it's has transfers, couplings and the detail work picked out, It needs weathering + the usual list.

 

 

Finally we have the USA Tank, I had one before, but the same fate befell it (sold), I decided I wanted another one and here we are! I picked S73 in 'BRITISH RAILWAYS' Sunshine livery and repainted/renumbered her.

 

 

She's had a bit more than just standard weathering done, and still looks very clean, I might make her a fraction more dirty. The cab modifications were carried out in late 1947 (Thanks @Graham_Muz  for the info!) and I assume she would've had an overhaul/repaint when this was done, so for her to fit in my chosen window, she probably wouldn't be completely covered in grot!

 

Apologies of some of the photos are a bit crud, still trying to figure out the best way to light the room i'm now in!

 

Thanks for reading guys!

[CCGWR]

Good to see that you are back with some more locos Jack, has been a while and it is always enjoyable viewing this thread. From memory, I have fitted a number of M7s with TCS DP2X-UK decoders which are direct 'plug and plays' and didn't involve any weight removing. Hope this helps.

 

Connor

[Jack P]

2 hours ago, CCGWR said:

Good to see that you are back with some more locos Jack, has been a while and it is always enjoyable viewing this thread. From memory, I have fitted a number of M7s with TCS DP2X-UK decoders which are direct 'plug and plays' and didn't involve any weight removing. Hope this helps.

 

Connor

 

 

Thanks Connor! 

 

That's really good to know actually i'd been eyeing some of those up for my H class locos. The prospect of buying 5 of them is a bit daunting though. I see you're in Australia, which is practically the West Island of New Zealand - who do you source those Decoders through?

 

[CCGWR]

2 hours ago, Jack P said:

 

 

Thanks Connor! 

 

That's really good to know actually i'd been eyeing some of those up for my H class locos. The prospect of buying 5 of them is a bit daunting though. I see you're in Australia, which is practically the West Island of New Zealand - who do you source those Decoders through?

 

 

Hi Jack,

Yes, decoders are becoming more expensive, although, nowadays I get most of my locos fitted by Kernows or Hattons, depending on where I get them or I order the standard Hattons decoder and fit it myself. I think you could get them from DCC supplies at one stage but they seem to have run out of stock. A shop over in New South Wales called Casula Hobbies has them but they are $67 AUD each, bit expensive for my liking. You could get them from TCS directly which are about $37 (US) each but that's my suggestion, I reckon the standard Hattons one is a similar style and would fit too.

Good Luck

 

Connor

[gz3xzf]

Watch out thinking that all direct-plug 8 pin decoders are equal, I tried fitting a Gaugemaster DCC29 decoder to my Oxford Adams Radial, I discovered that the body would not fit, I asked Oxford and they told me only the TCS DP2X-UK would fit.
When I had both decoders to hand I realised the DCC29 was around 1mm thicker, I would expect the same issue with the M7 as there is only a very small space between the 8-pin socket and the top of the boiler. I suspect the same will be true of the Hornby H class tank.
I haven't tried the new Hattons direct plug decoder, would be interested to know.

Edited May 19, 2020 by gz3xzf

[Jack P]

On 18/05/2020 at 22:39, CCGWR said:

You could get them from TCS directly which are about $37 (US) each but that's my suggestion, I reckon the standard Hattons one is a similar style and would fit too.

 

Excellent, I'll look at grabbing them from there!

 

13 hours ago, gz3xzf said:

I haven't tried the new Hattons direct plug decoder, would be interested to know.

 

As Bryan said, the DP2X-UK seems to be the smallest 8 pin you can get. The Hattons one doesn't fit in either the M7 or the H, I tried one of the gaugemaster ones but they're also too big!

 

I'm hoping the TCS decoder fits (literally) the bill!

[gz3xzf]

11 hours ago, Jack P said:

 

I'm hoping the TCS decoder fits (literally) the bill!

Jack

Yes, I have fitted the TSC to both the M7 and the H without issue, so you should be fine.

[Jack P]

A few little jobs done:

 

 

Correctly numbered M7!

 

 

The modified H class had it's bufferbeam number added, plus a view that's not often seen - the cab interior

 

 

I've also been tinkering with my PDK W. I was bricking myself when it came to the footplate - but luckily the right sized wooden dowels helped me get the curves right, and then the valences under the footplate help with making sure final alignment is right before soldering. I actually think I managed ok. The smokebox saddle is giving me some grief now though. So I thought i'd take a break and have a look at the cab.

 

 

 

My original plan was to solder the cab together and then trim off some of the locating tabs and use the screw that goes through the bottom of the chassis to help locate it. The boiler/smokebox is a resin casting, and my idea was to join this to the cab and make the whole thing removable for painting, but now i'm not sure that it's the best idea. 

 

I also regret not buying the wheels sooner. I've got the chassis all sorted, and using a spare set of wheels I've managed to get it all nice and free-rolling. But so much of the chassis construction (apart from the very basic stuff) relies on you having the wheels in order to check things. I've fired an Email off to Markits to (hopefully) get my hands on the wheels. The basic cylinders are built, and just need the whitemetal bits soldered on. 

 

I'd like to get a bit more done on the body so I can cut off the lower parts of the valances (super useful for keeping the body square when working on it. The next big one will be bending the back of the coal bunker - it doesn't have the half etched bend lines like the footplate did, and I don't have rolling bars. Things are also slightly compounded because there is the basic body construction and then almost every part has half etched overlays. I might cheat here and araldite them on. The side tanks are a fully enclosed unit, so will be perfect for adding bits of lead sheet.

 

That's all for now!

Edited May 25, 2020 by Jack P

[Jack P]

I progressed a bit more with the W last night, Still lots of cleaning up to do!

 

 

Tanks are on, smokebox saddle is in place too. I need to pop to bunnings and get some araldite to attach the smokebox wrapper.

 

I realised that I need to still solder on a bunch of little details to the front bufferbeam, I'm concerned about de-soldering the stuff that's already there though. I don't have any lower melt solder than the stuff I used to laminate the bufferbeam together with -  Would I be ok to use whitemetal solder to attach them or will that cause issues?

 

I also need to fill the tanks with lead sheet. Before I do I need to build the inside of the cutout in the tanks, I didn't think it would be as obvious as it is, but seeing the above photo, I think it needs to be done!

 

I'm now wondering if anyone has any suggestions for my next conundrum; I was going to try and make the cab roof removable, I'd initially thought I could make the whole cab removable, but I don't see that actually helping matters much. The Issue It seems many people face when building the later Maunsell engines is that the roof is one piece. The W has a join where it looks like the cab sides meet the top section of the roof, so I could make it removable from there.

 

However, the always impressive @DLT built a finecast W many years back and made the cab floor and backhead detachable from the rest of the cab. I might see if this is an option moving forwards, probably more work than making the roof removable, but possibly a cleaner result. Theoretically it would be easy enough to tack the sides to the front and back using the floor as a former, and then cut the tabs off the sides and see if I can figure out somewhere to hide the mounting points for screws.

 

Thoughts, advice, suggestions and abusive comments on a postcard please!

 

Edited May 26, 2020 by Jack P

[Jack P]

The front end was cleaned up a little, still not completely solder free, but butter than it was - you can ee the rivets on the smokebox saddle now!

 

 

I ordered an ultrasonic cleaner recently, no idea when it'll get here though, but i'm excited by the prospect of getting rid of gunk in hard to reach places.

 

 

Ignore the messy solder around the smokebox saddle. I spent most of last night building up the comet gearbox and texting everything to make sure it fit nicely and ran smoothly. Once the wheels arrive it i'll keep tinkering to make sure it runs sweetly. I chose to drive the loco off the middle axle as I was told that this reduces the risk of the valve gear binding. I need to find my cutting discs to trim the rear shaft of the motor. I've started making the pickup pads - some forethought will be required because this loco will be DCC fitted. 

 

I also araldited the smokebox wrapper on, and then used some tape to hold it in place overnight. I'll check it once I get home from work to make sure it's all on there nicely. 

 

 

 

This is the cab arrangement i'm faced with. In order to make the cab removable my thoughts were to: 

 

- Using the floor, and the chassis slot/tabs to hold the cab fronts/sides in place

- Tack the cab front and left cabside together, tack the cab rear and right cabside together

- Tack the bunker backhead (?) onto the rear sheet and right cabside piece

- Remove the floor and cut/file off the locating tabs

- Form the cab roof, and fix the two cab halves together
- Using some PCB board, build up the level for the cab floor and fix this to the footplate

- Solder captive nuts into the the underside of the bunker backhead and drill holes for screws in cab floor

- Solder BA Screw onto bottom of cab floor

 

Theoretically this means that the cab floor will screw into cab interior, two screws holding it to the bunker backhead, and then the whole cab assembly will locate with the slot/tabs and be screwed to the footplate. The PCB board holding the footplate level should stop any distortion from only being secured via one screw, and the cab should positively locate with the tabs. I'd also like to fix the boiler to the cab front to make the whole thing one unit for painting. 

 

Apart from being more complex than standard construction, does anyone envisage any major issues with this plan? Is there another plan that is more simple while still achieving the same result? Am I over-engineering this?

 

 

 

 

[FoxUnpopuli]

Deleted, oops.

 

Edited May 27, 2020 by FoxUnpopuli
Deleted because I was on the wrong page and responding to a three year old post. *D'oh!*

[DLT]

Hi Jack,

Great job on the W.  When I did mine it was a toss-up whether I did it with the removable roof, or did the removable cab and floor instead.  Seeing they way the kit is designed, I would stick with it.  I see there are PDK's nice half etched bending lines on the inside of the cabsides, this was absent from my scrachbuilt cab, and forming that bend so close to the edges was a major factor.   There are rainstrips on the roof to aid disguising a join, if you solder the strips to the removable roof, they can overlap the join, hiding it.  I did this subsequently on my Z-Class.  The roof doesn't have to remain loosely fitted, once the interior if fully finished, painted etc, I lightly glue the roof on with a little bit of Evostick.  This retains it in use, but means you can pull it off again without damage, should you ever need to.

I know detailing a cab interior through a hole in the roof is awkward, but looking at the design of the kit cab, I reckon you would be making a major extra job of trying to alter it.  How much detail is there to go in, apart from the backhead and handbrake?

Not trying to influence you here, but personally I don't think there's a need to make the cab removable in this case, when compared to mine.  Mine had a hefty cast whitemetal footplate, which didn't heed any bracing.  In this case, the cabsides soldered on, provide much needed strength and rigidity to the etched footplate assembly at the rather delicate point of the bend and curve.

All the best, Dave.

Edited May 27, 2020 by DLT

[Jack P]

10 hours ago, DLT said:

Hi Jack,

Great job on the W.  When I did mine it was a toss-up whether I did it with the removable roof, or did the removable cab and floor instead.  Seeing they way the kit is designed, I would stick with it.  I see there are PDK's nice half etched bending lines on the inside of the cabsides, this was absent from my scrachbuilt cab, and forming that bend so close to the edges was a major factor.   There are rainstrips on the roof to aid disguising a join, if you solder the strips to the removable roof, they can overlap the join, hiding it.  I did this subsequently on my Z-Class.  The roof doesn't have to remain loosely fitted, once the interior if fully finished, painted etc, I lightly glue the roof on with a little bit of Evostick.  This retains it in use, but means you can pull it off again without damage, should you ever need to.

I know detailing a cab interior through a hole in the roof is awkward, but looking at the design of the kit cab, I reckon you would be making a major extra job of trying to alter it.  How much detail is there to go in, apart from the backhead and handbrake?

Not trying to influence you here, but personally I don't think there's a need to make the cab removable in this case, when compared to mine.  Mine had a hefty cast whitemetal footplate, which didn't heed any bracing.  In this case, the cabsides soldered on, provide much needed strength and rigidity to the etched footplate assembly at the rather delicate point of the bend and curve.

All the best, Dave.

 

 

Thank you for your input Dave, I did start to wonder if I was overthinking things. I actually just went through your thread from start to finish for some inspiration!

 

 

I think if you look at the above photo, the 'hole in the roof' is actually going to be pretty large, and should afford a decent amount of space for me to paint/ detail as required. As you rightly mention, there isn't actually much that needs to go in there apart from the backhead and some gubbins. I'm now not sure if I should be soldering the etched overlays for the sides on first, or leave them and araldite them on afterwards. Soldering is the preferred option, i'm just worried about how the overlay will react when the bend is introduced. I could bend both and then solder them together? I'll bend the sides tonight and re-assess.

 

Should I still try and make the boiler removable for painting? I'm starting to think I could paint the hard to reach areas first and then attach the boiler and finish painting. 

 

I managed to distract myself from the W last night for a little while. 

 

 

Got up close with the new Bulleid stock - they are nice bits of rolling stock. I know they never(?) strayed from ex-lswr lines, but Kernow was having a sale on the set and lockdown made me weak! Chip arrived for the USA Tank, All done and runs beautifully! I need to get out to the model club once it's open, which should be soon - For those wondering there are still social distancing regulations in place, New Zealand currently only has 23 active cases, and hasn't had a new case in over two weeks. However I usually head to the club at night, and have only had one instance of coming across another person, so I can be safe AND play trains!

 

 

I also turned my anger towards my two N class locos, I decided to try and make one running one from the two dead ducks - success (and DCC fitted too!). No photos yet as ex 1406 is now in the paint shop, but will probably emerge with 1863's straight sided tender and a new identity to match. 

 

Apologies that there hasn't been much variation of late. Hoping to make some progress on a few things - I work x4 10hr days at present, and it's Queens Birthday on Monday - so i'm happy!

 

Thanks for tuning in!