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14 minutes ago, DLT said:

 

Thanks very much Jack, she was a pleasure to work on. 

The only other thing I would have added was pickups on the tender.  Although its a moot point whether this would be necessary with the massive weight of the whitemetal body on the drivers.

All the best, Dave.

 

Thanks Dave, you're a real craftsman!

I'm still considering running the pickups in the tender to the loco when I convert her to DCC, it seems a shame not to put those 8 wheels to use, especially because the pickups are already there.

 

Ask and ye shall receive:

 

 

Here are some bonus clips

 

 

 

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Here's another:

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Spent some time at the workbench over the weekend,

 

50031163603_321de710d5_h.jpg

 

Finished the Lavatory brake for this birdcage set - @AVS1998 has kindly provided me with an appropriate set and associated coach numbers, so that will be the next order of business. The are fitted with Markits Sprung buffers and Roxey screw links. 

 

50031950312_a86edd1ee2_h.jpg

 

(I'll take some better photos soon)  I've been after a flat sided tender S15 variant for a while now, I'm pretty happy with it! Headcode not final, but I added the number from LNER wagon transfers. I'd previously thought working number/train reporting numbers were all similarly sized in neat lines, but like most things photo evidence proved this to be an incorrect assumption.

 

50031950332_25482c14ee_h.jpg

 

The N is nearing completion too, and just needs bufferbeam details added.  Caveat is that most of my locos that are "finished" still need something done. Sometimes I do a basic 'weathering' while repainting, but more often than not a full weathering is needed to really bring it up to spec. I genuinely don't think i've got any fully finished locos in the fleet. But it's something i'm working on!

 

Like most of my locos, almost everything needs a crew/coal/tools/headcode added. I'd like to make a start on this with the crew, and tools initially. I'm aware of Modelu's excellent figures, does anyone have any other cost effective options for mass population of locos?

 

 

Edited by Jack P
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7 hours ago, Jack P said:

does anyone have any other cost effective options for mass population of locos?

I use the very cheap (~£7) Dapol workmen pack. You get around 40 figures but they need painting. Some of them need their tools chopping out of their hands as I think the figures are designed more for general workmen rather than footplate crew. Once painted and in the cab they look OK.

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9 hours ago, Jack P said:

Like most of my locos, almost everything needs a crew/coal/tools/headcode added. I'd like to make a start on this with the crew, and tools initially. I'm aware of Modelu's excellent figures, does anyone have any other cost effective options for mass population of locos?

 

 

Jack

I have used a lot of the crew sets from Masterpiece Falcon Figures which are bespoke to each model of RTR loco - so they fit!

(They are not on the web, but Martin Hill who makes them (and paints them if wanted), will mail you a price list if requested from [email protected]

That said, I feel that Modelu crew now probably outclass any other producer that I can think of, but they are not cheap.

Best wishes

Tony (no connection etc)

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Thanks for the heads up guys!

 

I'll look into both avenues. I just placed an order with Dart Castings for some of their dual crew packs, I've used these before and mixing and matching as required works well. They will probably go into nice open cabs, so they can be seen, while some of my slightly 'iffy' figures will go in the closed cabs.

 

On 22/06/2020 at 23:29, Tony Teague said:

That said, I feel that Modelu crew now probably outclass any other producer that I can think of, but they are not cheap.

 

I think you're right, I will probably pick up some of Alan's figures for the Hattons P, as they were designed to fit, and I need more of their SR lamps!

 

50038479453_4f9f7aecc6_h.jpg

 

Here's a slightly better 3/4 shot of the S15, with a Modelu lamp on the upper right lamp iron. The 'SOUTHERN' on the tender looks wonky, but I spent ages measuring to make sure it was in line. I'm pretty sure it's the camera playing tricks.

 

I've also been working on two T9's, originally 314 and 708, they have had their tenders swapped and will end up as 301 and 728 (I think)

 

50039025731_a7d0f24dbc_h.jpg

 

50039287567_66b4b47a29_h.jpg

 

I had my order of HMRS transfers arrive recently, but unfortunately they are unusable. I've tried different combinations of Meths/water but I just can't get them to stick, it's like the glue has completely dried up/off. I notice they are on the new backing paper and are significantly darker than the previous ones i've had. Frustrating as I was on a roll with transfers, but have now run out of the green/yellow Sunshine 'Southern's for Wartime Black locos! Ah well, will fire off an email to HMRS and put these on the backburner!

 

While i'm waiting on the I3 chassis to arrive, I decided to work on the 0395. I need to shape the rear drag beam, and the front beam on the tender, as they are angled/curved, in hindsight this would've been easier to do before attaching them to the loco.

 

50039025696_626afe0f48_h.jpg

 

it's actually a devilishly simple little loco, there aren't actually that many parts left to go on. I'll probably have another look at the branchlines catalogue to see if they have the appropriate chimney, the dome also looks a little malnourished I think. Unfortunately as the chassis is just two slabs of brass, i'll have to add all of the other details (Still waiting for the Russell book to arrive, does this have a diagram?) I'm also not sure what size tender wheels I need, these are just some spares I had kicking around. 
 

That's all for now, as usual, input is always encouraged!

 

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I have the Russell Book Jack and it seems there is diagrams for the 0395 plus a number of pictures which should be useful.

 

Connor

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Here is my DJH 0395 class 3441 one of Salisbury’s pilot engines resting in the headshunt at Fisherton Sarum. 
BFB296B1-7578-44A9-B2CF-370DCA972B65.jpeg.216c1845b9ea1238673705b18ece167b.jpeg

Picture courtesy C Nevard 

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Hi Jack,

 

The proportions of the DJH 0395 kit look wrong to me, in the relationship between boiler and cab.  At first I thought the boiler was too low, but I now reckon the cab is a bit too tall.  The curve of the cutout should tighten in radius towards the top, and the effect is compounded by the thickness of the whitemetal roof.

 

Regarding the dome, Adams domes tended to be huge, but size did vary quite a bit.  A trawl of internet photos shows this, so your dome is OK for one of the smaller examples.

I wanted to bid for one of these kits on Ebay a while ago, but it eventually went for a very silly figure, WAY more that I was prepared to pay!

 

The Russell book is an excellent work of reference for the Southern modeller, and most of the drawings include quoted dimensions.  However that doesn't mean that they are totally accurate as drawn, take care when copying them.

 

All the best,

Dave.

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I have a hankering to build some more 4-4-0s.  I reckon the PDK wide-cab T9 kit would be a good starting point for an L12, and the narrow-cab T9 could be shortened to make a C8.

Cheers, Dave.

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Posted (edited)
52 minutes ago, DLT said:

Hi Jack,

 

The proportions of the DJH 0395 kit look wrong to me, in the relationship between boiler and cab.  At first I thought the boiler was too low, but I now reckon the cab is a bit too tall.  The curve of the cutout should tighten in radius towards the top, and the effect is compounded by the thickness of the whitemetal roof.

 

Regarding the dome, Adams domes tended to be huge, but size did vary quite a bit.  A trawl of internet photos shows this, so your dome is OK for one of the smaller examples.

I wanted to bid for one of these kits on Ebay a while ago, but it eventually went for a very silly figure, WAY more that I was prepared to pay!

 

The Russell book is an excellent work of reference for the Southern modeller, and most of the drawings include quoted dimensions.  However that doesn't mean that they are totally accurate as drawn, take care when copying them.

 

All the best,

Dave.

 

Good to hear from you Dave!

 

It's interesting you pointed that out, I actually thought the boiler was sitting a bit low initially too. I think the cab cutout issue you mention is compounded by the bottom of the curve too. My model is sitting on wheels that are too small, as such the footplates don't align. That means the lower cutout will be too low when the tender is at the right height. Looking at the picture below makes me realise just how gargantuan the roof of my model actually is. 

 

A postwar portrait of former LSWR, Adams 0395 class 0-6-0 no. 3506 of 1885 vintage at Guildford. 3506 would be BR branded with the number 30580 in April 1948 whilst allocated to Guildford mpd and would be withdrawn at the same shed in June 1957. [Mike Morant collection]

 

This model was an impulse buy from hattons 'Pre-Owned', and it was extremely well priced. She has now taken a backseat while I work through some kinks. The possibility of a new cab is on the table, replacing the frames with Alan Gibson ones, as well as replacing the tender with one of the Martin Finney kits. The whitemetal tender is heavier than the loco, which I'd imagine will seriously impede haulage power.

 

I'm really looking forward to my copy of Russell arriving - are they the Roche drawings that are regarded as being inaccurate? Am I thinking of something else?

Edited by Jack P
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2 hours ago, Graham_Muz said:

Here is my DJH 0395 class 3441 one of Salisbury’s pilot engines resting in the headshunt at Fisherton Sarum. 
*snip*

Picture courtesy C Nevard 

 

Thanks for posting Graham, always lovely to see FS and its residents!

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Posted (edited)

I've had an unexpectedly productive start to the weekend. After putting the '0395' away, I decided to take a look at the SECR J that'd been lurking for a while. (I don't have enough on the go projects, apparently)

 

Suddenly, just over 24 hours later it looks like this:

 

50047174027_4b7d1f8329_h.jpg

 

50046916651_0f964b6223_h.jpg

 

50047174007_7147121386_h.jpg

 

The steam reverser isn't perfect, but it's a pretty good representation of what's there. Aside from the buffers, handles on the front of the valve chest and back of the splashers, a bit of brass strip and some wire to represent eh pipe runs, the kit's been built as it comes out of the box. There are lots of visible gaps, and the cab interior is more open than I'd like, so a backhead and false floor will be fitted.

 

Looking at it in photos show a few stray blobs of solder, and that roof really needs thinning down somehow! One of the front steps was broken off, with the broken bit not being present, I decided to cut both steps off and will re-fit replacements - I was thinking SEF might have some H class spares that would suit.

 

I'm hoping to get it into primer soon, because the rivet transfers for the smokebox will probably take some time. I'll also add boiler bands from electrical tape at this stage too.

 

The wheels i've got are just temporary, they're 21mm instead of the 22mm they should be, and the bogie wheels are spare from the N15x build. Despite them not being perfect, i'm tempted to use them, given that I need to order, and then wait for a motor and gearbox anyway though, I might as well just order the right ones.

 

Decisions.. 

Edited by Jack P
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All drawings from that era should be taken "with a pinch of salt"!  I understand that some of the Roche drawings can be a bit of a hybrid of variations.

Ironically, research is far easier nowadays.  A good internet search can turn up loads of excellent photos, and you can gauge many proportions from the photos.  Together with the stated dimensions in Russell, you are well away.  Its then that you realise some older kits were designed from drawings that were inaccurate to begin with!

Cheers, Dave.

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Never enough time in the day for modelling is there? Despite this first world problem, I managed to get some of the lamp irons fitted to the J - specifically the front smokebox ones, the lower 3 and the rear bunker ones will be done tomorrow.

 

I also decided to make some progress with the chassis. I decided to order the correct 22mm wheels, so when spacing the brakes out, I was a bit more generous, this is a bit of a compromise, but it means the rigging is all done. 

 

50050332608_015a16b068_h.jpg

 

I added the pull rods, although, i'm not sure if the J had one or two runs of pull rods. I also added the actuating lever under the cab. None of this is perfect, but it's only supposed to be a representation of what's actually there.

 

Hoping to get the body primed tomorrow!

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On 26/06/2020 at 12:45, CCGWR said:

I have the Russell Book Jack and it seems there is diagrams for the 0395 plus a number of pictures which should be useful.

 

Connor

 

Including a rather nice J. N. Maskelyne side view of one of the locos in LSWR days from one of his 'Locomotive I have known' books. Now, I know we've mentioned the questionable accuracy of older drawings, but Maskelyne drawings are always things of beauty. 

 

 

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, pete_mcfarlane said:

Including a rather nice J. N. Maskelyne side view of one of the locos in LSWR days from one of his 'Locomotive I have known' books. Now, I know we've mentioned the questionable accuracy of older drawings, but Maskelyne drawings are always things of beauty. 

 

I'll add it to the list of books to pick up!

 

I don't mean to come across conceited, but it took me 2 years to complete the N15x, and so far it's probably only taken me 4 days to end up with an almost complete body, and running chassis!

 

 

I borrowed the motor and gearbox from the W, this was supposed to be temporary, but it may end up being a permanent arrangement. I'll now work on where to put pickups, and then give the chassis a really good clean down and get it ready for paint.

 

 

Edited by Jack P
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Quick work on the J Jack, looking very good! I feel I have a bit of vested interest in this one!

cheers from Oz,

Peter C.

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The drawings in the Russell book are mostly SR weight diagrams which are generally quite well drawn (unlike LMS and LNER ones). No drawings can be relied on absolutely but the majority of these are good enough to work from. Don't confuse with the Roche drawings which look very well drawn but contain any number of silly errors which are easily shown up by looking at photographs. It's bit of a puzzle because the level of mechanical detail suggests that Mr. Roche had access to works drawings to prepare them. The best sources of information are usually general arrangements or pipe and rod layout drawings - but locomotives were never actually built from drawings and many differ substantially from what was intended. The dimensions shown in weight diagrams can be trusted though, that's what the drawings were intended for, the accuracy of other items depended largely on the skill or interest of the draughtsman assigned to the job.

When I am doing drawings for models, apart from mechanical constraints my golden rule is "if it looks wrong compared with the photos - it is wrong" - and I'm afraid your 0395 looks very wrong. 

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9 hours ago, Jack P said:

I'll add it to the list of books to pick up!

There are two volumes of 'Locomotives I have known'. Both are good - a set of drawings and some information and reminiscences for each class. They're the kind of books that sometimes go for silly money on eBay or Amazon, but can be go for a sensible price. 

 

As for the Chivers J - it's looking good. Mine has to occasional tendency to go straight on at points when it shouldn't, which I think is due to it being a bit rear heavy and the front drivers lifting up slightly. It's waiting for some remedial work to sort this. Something to watch out for, in case it's not just a fault of my build. 

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7 hours ago, 45568 said:

Quick work on the J Jack, looking very good! I feel I have a bit of vested interest in this one!

cheers from Oz,

Peter C.

 

Thanks Peter, I wonder if the L will be as quick, somehow, I doubt it!

 

5 hours ago, Michael Edge said:

The drawings in the Russell book are mostly SR weight diagrams which are generally quite well drawn (unlike LMS and LNER ones). No drawings can be relied on absolutely but the majority of these are good enough to work from. Don't confuse with the Roche drawings which look very well drawn but contain any number of silly errors which are easily shown up by looking at photographs. It's bit of a puzzle because the level of mechanical detail suggests that Mr. Roche had access to works drawings to prepare them. The best sources of information are usually general arrangements or pipe and rod layout drawings - but locomotives were never actually built from drawings and many differ substantially from what was intended. The dimensions shown in weight diagrams can be trusted though, that's what the drawings were intended for, the accuracy of other items depended largely on the skill or interest of the draughtsman assigned to the job.

When I am doing drawings for models, apart from mechanical constraints my golden rule is "if it looks wrong compared with the photos - it is wrong" - and I'm afraid your 0395 looks very wrong. 

 

Thanks for popping in Mike.

I agree, the more I look at it, the more I notice isn't right.

I'm patiently waiting for my copy of Russell to arrive, then I can measure up the cab from the kit against the drawing and see if it's salvageable as is, with a bit of tweaking, or if it's a candidate for a scratch-build.

 

1 hour ago, pete_mcfarlane said:

There are two volumes of 'Locomotives I have known'. Both are good - a set of drawings and some information and reminiscences for each class. They're the kind of books that sometimes go for silly money on eBay or Amazon, but can be go for a sensible price. 

 

As for the Chivers J - it's looking good. Mine has to occasional tendency to go straight on at points when it shouldn't, which I think is due to it being a bit rear heavy and the front drivers lifting up slightly. It's waiting for some remedial work to sort this. Something to watch out for, in case it's not just a fault of my build. 

 

I'll keep an eye out for both!

When placed on the rolling road sans bogie, it becomes apparent that the centre of gravity is just in front of the rear drivers, I was thinking of gently springing the rear bogie on the J, I wonder if that would help?

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Posted (edited)

Right, so weekend now over and this is where i'm at

 

50054142367_ae97355966_h.jpg

 

Chassis runs nicely and has been primed ready for painting. I actually followed the advice given by @DLT in his thread, blackening the chassis first, even though i'll be replacing the wheels, I still blackened them too.

 

50053320278_f490309429_h.jpg

 

I'll wait for the high level gearbox to arrive before I press on too much further. However pickups will be fitted now, I plan to follow DLT's method of making a loco DCC.

 

After cleaning up the bench I fitted the sandboxes. the ones behind the front drivers needed some serious thinning down to make sure they don't foul the coupling rods. 

 

50053893866_0e16536824_h.jpg

 

Next job for the body is to finish the lamp irons and the front end pipework, before priming and rivet transfers. 

 

 

 

Edited by Jack P
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7 hours ago, Jack P said:

When placed on the rolling road sans bogie, it becomes apparent that the centre of gravity is just in front of the rear drivers, I was thinking of gently springing the rear bogie on the J, I wonder if that would help?

I'd also had the same thought, but hadn't got as far as actually doing it.....

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Jack

 

I do like the J class loco, there is something about large tank locos that's so appealing

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