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Any recommendations on which filler to use would be greatly appreciated

 

Squadron white putty works quite well.  No connection with the shop linked to, just the cheapest link that came up.  I got mine from Eileen's Emporium, no doubt other stockists will be available.

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2 minutes ago, Chris116 said:

Hope you have a nice new chimney to replace the broken original on the body at present. Looking good so far.

I have a couple of dead bodies I can harvest one from. Oh wait, that didn't sound good at all. Loco bodies, honest!

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10 minutes ago, TangoOscarMike said:

 

Hopefully you don't mind me doing this, since it's none of my business and what I've done is a hasty botch.

 

nice_picture_bodged_by_tom.png.0fba9d259e9e128f448aea187685758a.png

 

 

I don't mind at all! I like your work here. The rear bogie will be moved back a tiny bit before being secured to the chassis but this helps me a lot as I can see that it's close enough to an H class to make me happy. 

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G'Day Folks

 

A good 'Car body filler' will make that look as good as new, I often find the first coat fills the big cracks, followed by a rub down, then if need be a second coat, just smeared over, then another rub down, and you won't see the join.

 

manna

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11 hours ago, manna said:

G'Day Folks

 

A good 'Car body filler' will make that look as good as new, I often find the first coat fills the big cracks, followed by a rub down, then if need be a second coat, just smeared over, then another rub down, and you won't see the join.

 

manna


I use Holts Cataloy knifing putty, it’s a fine filler for filling stone chips and scratches on cars.

 

Only £3 from Halfrauds for a 100g tube

 

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/paints-and-body-repair/fillers-and-preparation/holts-cataloy-knifing-putty-100g-154211.html

 

It lasts quite a while but it looks like I’ll be needing another tube soon :lol:

 

04A4BAE4-6105-49F5-B4AC-68E45A427EEC.jpeg.56e71bc08aa708ad182d4ea9eb2f1c04.jpeg


 

Edited by chuffinghell
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6 minutes ago, Sophia NSE said:

Having spent the afternoon hacking away excess metal from the chassis, we have reached this point!

IMG20200314194822.jpg.1809ca5a2d773c2a64d102bbde697b90.jpg

Next step is fixing the bogie to the chassis before attaching the body

Hi Sophia,

 

The proportions are looking just right, a tidy up with a bit of filler and a repaired chimney should see it looking just right.

 

Gibbo.

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4 minutes ago, Gibbo675 said:

Hi Sophia,

 

The proportions are looking just right, a tidy up with a bit of filler and a repaired chimney should see it looking just right.

 

Gibbo.

Thanks, that's quite some praise from a modeller of your standard! I do need to shave the flaring off the tank tops too and remove the sanding box (?) from the front splashers. I'm also hoping to shave off the moulded handrails and replace with metal ones. Must fix the front cab window areas too. Not too much left then! :D:D

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Just now, Sophia NSE said:

Thanks, that's quite some praise from a modeller of your standard! I do need to shave the flaring off the tank tops too and remove the sanding box (?) from the front splashers. I'm also hoping to shave off the moulded handrails and replace with metal ones. Must fix the front cab window areas too. Not too much left then! :D:D

Ha!

 

I'm not that good, poorly lit photography helps somewhat.

 

Gibbo.

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On 13/03/2020 at 19:52, Moxy said:

Any recommendations on which filler to use would be greatly appreciated

 

Squadron white putty works quite well.  No connection with the shop linked to, just the cheapest link that came up.  I got mine from Eileen's Emporium, no doubt other stockists will be available.

I actually use car surface filler. 

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Thanks for this. I have just ordered 2, like he says in the video, you still only pay one lot of postage for more than one so good value. Actually cheaper, in my experience, than buying second hand locos at toy fairs just to get the chassis. Now to think of something to mount on them, watch this space.

 

Stu

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Got a bit fancy so now the bogie has springs between it and the chassis

IMG20200319225227.jpg.37aa6a0a26bfdd36fa6da066f572d886.jpg

Also been carving up another body to see if I can remove the sanding box on the front splashers and the flaring on the tanks

IMG20200319224315.jpg.f205187d09d25b3ece55f13d5805179e.jpg

And here she is sitting next to an unmodified R1 for a height check

IMG20200319224414.jpg.ca58768bb2227d1e54058dd263a634c1.jpg

Hopefully I can sneak out after work tomorrow and pick up some filler to start cleaning up the bunker. Something to keep me occupied as work is shutting down until after Easter

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On 16/03/2020 at 00:28, FoxUnpopuli said:

Everyone seen this?  For a review and to see one in action, go see 'Budget Model Railways' on Youtube.

 

https://www.Hornby.com/uk-en/0-4-0_complete_chassis_assembly_-_black_wheels.html

 

Can I add my thanks for this tip.  A package of three units arrived today.  Not sure yet  what will become of them, although one may be the power unit for a freelance version of  a LNWR railmotor.  Will be something to do during my self-isolation.  :-)

dyserth2.jpg

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Bought myself some car body repair putty after getting sent home from work early yesterday (precautionary shutdown) and thought I'd give it a try. It's stinky stuff!

IMG20200321184123.jpg.2ae4ddd0a831a950b13588a203a1cb5b.jpg

Also had a try at repairing the chimney.  I'll fill the gap with superglue and sand it down

IMG20200321233241.jpg.b3f68b4bef9400a21bc01fd11dd3a7f0.jpg

Well now, some accidental research has revealed I'm actually building a Q1. Not the Southern's austerity monster, but a rebuild of the even older Q class. All were withdrawn in 1930 and scrapped according to Wikipedia, but a minor history change will show that one was sold on the cheap to the WKR in that year. An R1 will be joining it in the future after a little bit of work on my not bench!

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There has been a bit more surgery than I had anticipated, firstly the boiler has been extended with a 14mm wide strip of brass (unfortunately I only noticed the front join was mismatched after the araldite had set - hoping I can hide the slight discrepancy with a boiler band).

IMG_3178.JPG.ae33ac28e3f2dbe5531bdb1e627519dd.JPG

I started off trying to salvage the original footplate, but eventually came to the conclusion that is was easier to cut the bits off it (splashers, buffer beams, steps) and graft them to a new one made from 1mm thick plastikard.

IMG_3180.JPG.bf5629ef463fbeedb55f2bed308f3342.JPG

 

 

 

 

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