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Show us your Pugbashes, Nellieboshes, Desmondifications, Jintysteins


Corbs
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9 hours ago, willsheldrake said:

Not sure if this has been mentioned yet, but a long time ago George Dent bashed about a Bachmann Junior not-Thomas 0-4-0T. It was to his usual standard of modeling and looked great. You can find out more on his blog http://georgedentmodelmaker.blogspot.com/2010/08/bess-is-in-demand.html

 

Before

image.png.f5b133ec2f9f36a712d40a89a10da758.png

 

After

image.png.5d04a21e95a6f99c46b95c5152816bb7.png

image.png.ba64d8761e7b7cf4565f1aa908e842d2.png

 

Fell like I should say something about copyright and all. I dont own these photos should suffice. 

The body is only attached to the footplate by screws. Allowing for easy modification or swapping parts around.

I've lowered the Bachmanntanks and boiler unit by cutting off about 2 mm from the underside and made it look fatter by gluing on layers of plasticard with some rivet detail pushed in. Reshaped the cab cutouts. The saddle tank is a Hornby Percy sitting on the Bachmann chassis and footplate.

 

percypugthomas-a.jpg.dab3af6835bf2a2510f3574f668dadbc.jpg

 

 

percypugthomas2a.jpg.aa39dc43ad4f047c57089b8789e67f09.jpg

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5 hours ago, Sophia NSE said:

Still not entirely sure about the colour. Maybe the bright wheels aren't helping

IMG20200826113149.jpg.87868a7dbdfad6e1a6ba4d5644979c5e.jpg


I agree they’re too bright. Gut feeling is that they’re also a bit too big? Could just be me, but I feel like the large wheel-short wheelbase combination draws the eye in as something that doesn’t quite look as you would expect. 

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4 hours ago, relaxinghobby said:

The body is only attached to the footplate by screws. Allowing for easy modification or swapping parts around.

I've lowered the Bachmanntanks and boiler unit by cutting off about 2 mm from the underside and made it look fatter by gluing on layers of plasticard with some rivet detail pushed in. Reshaped the cab cutouts. The saddle tank is a Hornby Percy sitting on the Bachmann chassis and footplate.

 

percypugthomas-a.jpg.dab3af6835bf2a2510f3574f668dadbc.jpg

 

 

percypugthomas2a.jpg.aa39dc43ad4f047c57089b8789e67f09.jpg



One of the several things I appreciate about the left hand (green) loco is the shape of bufferbeam and the way the steps are integrated into it.

You'll have a lot more direct experience of this over me, but I am beginning to realise in 'selling' a freelance loco, it's detail that sells the overall concept (not too much, it appears, but key things here and there).

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13 hours ago, Corbs said:

What do you think about it with darker wheels?

951047611_Screenshot2020-08-26at14_19_33.png.0d180f5a2b1af0a716aab7bfd37a79ce.png

 

My 2D is that the front buffer beam needs to come slightly forwards, so that the cleaner can stand on it while cleaning out the smokebox and being in no danger of falling off.

 

 

It looks a little front-heavy - but maybe the buffer beam extension would help with that.  But if not, my second thought is that the driving wheels could be moved forwards a few mm, so that the total weight is balanced over them.  This would need new splashers, so may be a bit drastic.  The buffer beam, though...

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On 26/08/2020 at 20:38, Sophia NSE said:

Still not entirely sure about the colour. Maybe the bright wheels aren't helping

IMG20200826113149.jpg.87868a7dbdfad6e1a6ba4d5644979c5e.jpg

 

Wouldn't the doors to the cab foul the internal splashers over the rear set of wheels. Also besides the green/red combination which never works properly the front wheels are too far back.   

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Pale greens work with red, dark don't - I think it is a trick caused by the two shades being the opposite of each other on a chromatic scale or whatever it is by which action colour is reversed as in a photographic negative. To me the juxtaposition causes a flickering effect in how the brain perceives it.  

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2 hours ago, Malcolm 0-6-0 said:

Pale greens work with red, dark don't - I think it is a trick caused by the two shades being the opposite of each other on a chromatic scale or whatever it is by which action colour is reversed as in a photographic negative. To me the juxtaposition causes a flickering effect in how the brain perceives it.  

 

Edward Fletcher would agree with you but numerous railways, notably the GWR and GCR used a darker green - mid chrome green - with red frames, albeit Indian red, a dark red. This was almost the default livery for locomotives in the mid-19th century. But colour on colour* is forbidden by the laws of heraldry. Those medievals were no fools - the laws were devised to facilitate battlefield recognition.  

 

Once the locomotive is lined out, the base colours will be "lifted" by the contrast and there won't be large blocks of green and red next to each other.

 

*The colours being red, blue, black, green and purple, the last two being less frequently used. They could be placed on (or vice versa) the two metals, yellow an white. Those who started on Lego in the 60s or 70s will recognise the essential rightness of these choices.

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On 18/08/2020 at 23:34, BackRoomBoffin said:

 

 

 

If you're trying to bash the Pug into an 0-6-0, I recommend this beastie from a not-too-far-away location (Gorton ... if you regard the Pugs as an adaptation of a Vulcan design, that's very near indeed):
 

886 - Pollitt GCR Class 5 LNER Class J62 0-6-0ST - built 1897 by Gorton Works - 1924 to LNER No.5886 - 12/36 loaned to Sir Robert McAlpine for construction of Ebbw Vale Steelworks - damaged at Ebbw Vale - 11/37 withdrawn - seen here as built.



 

Ah thanks! i'll consider that one!

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On ‎28‎/‎08‎/‎2020 at 09:53, Compound2632 said:

numerous railways, notably the GWR and GCR used a darker green - mid chrome green - with red frames, albeit Indian red, a dark red. This was almost the default livery for locomotives in the mid-19th century. But colour on colour* is forbidden by the laws of heraldry. Those medievals were no fools - the laws were devised to facilitate battlefield recognition.  

 

Once the locomotive is lined out, the base colours will be "lifted" by the contrast and there won't be large blocks of green and red next to each other.

 

I'm not even sure lining is needed. Just painting the footplate black would provide a level of separation between the areas of green and black, and I don't see that that requires a darker red, personally.

This image from online (grabbed at random) of a German Mallet shows the kind of thing I'm on about. Look how dingy that green, and how bright that red. No problem, just a hairline of black in between.

 

Capture2.PNG

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The SECR liked green with red too and if it was good enough for them, it's good enough for me! The red wheels on the 0-6-0 will get a recolour eventually though. Anyway, the powers that be at the WKR have had an idea what to do with the original Q1 body...IMG20200906104748.jpg.ab2230278e718aa4f8a7b1668c04db03.jpg

The front end will get the chop like the Q1. Now to work out how to get a pony truck in there

IMG20200906103548.jpg.933c34488057d17246a3887c38e8fd97.jpg

Also, this was masquerading as a chimney top on an R1 body and is the perfect size for spectacle plates but I can't remember what it would be called. Help!:wacko:

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Hi,

You can get replacement chimney tops for the R1 I believe from Peters Spares. if not the regularly appear on Ebay. I got one from Ebay earlier this year. Must admit I do not think that there is much difference between that eyelet and the origional chimney top..... :)

Edited by cypherman
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22 minutes ago, cypherman said:

Hi,

You can get replacement chimney tops for the R1 I believe from Peters Spares. if not the regularly appear on Ebay. I got one from Ebay earlier this year. Must admit I do not think that there is much difference between that eyelet and the origional chimney top..... :)

Already bought two of them this year, plus the long screw for the Dublo chassis!

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ive cobbled together some parts into a working chassis just for the thought of putting these wheels on that chassis.

 

On the left are old dublo princess wheels, the centre were drilled out wonky many years ago so i filled them with milliput and now re drilled straight, the flange thickness has also been reduced to modern standard. i was going to use the XO motor but i lost one of the contacts the chassis is one of the generic 0-6-0's with the old wheels in the packet on the right

1175237214_A(1).JPG.1152316a0b97dd823b243e6719638454.JPG

 

 

assembled rolling chassis to 14.5mm back to back

1289906495_A(2).JPG.83511da99beb83c31a3a4e59f9069d42.JPG

 

As said the Xo was a no-go so instead its a cheapo and i had to make up a mounting frame with a gear reduction. a flat had to be filed out of the chassis with slots cut for the tranverse gear

863852130_A(4).JPG.71b7e04cf5179c7172136dc3160ab74a.JPG

 

just some pickups to make and its a runner, Though i have no idea what loco to make with it OO nor O16.5

1223348462_A(5).JPG.36b765074eacfcdef7b9aea151712f93.JPG

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