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On 02/05/2021 at 15:12, Londontram said:

I must have missed that memo sorry 

Just run it by me again - toy story loco, black 5 wheels?

Yeah... They'll probably fit, maybe, kind of...

Only one way to find out really and that's have a bash. Just have to wait for the test subject to arrive and who know's maybe I could fit even larger wheels :D

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1 hour ago, Rockalaucher101 said:

Yeah... They'll probably fit, maybe, kind of...

Only one way to find out really and that's have a bash. Just have to wait for the test subject to arrive and who know's maybe I could fit even larger wheels :D

If there both Hornby then most likely they will swap but you miss the question I  was asking - what are you thinking of making?

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6 minutes ago, Londontram said:

If there both Hornby then most likely they will swap but you miss the question I  was asking - what are you thinking of making?

An abomination :devil:

No, I'm joking, I'm thinking of a freelance 0-4-0 shunter. Might be diesel, might be steam, haven't decided.

The image I have in my head is kind of Ivor the Engine in appearance, largely scratch built plastic body but might steal that cab off a Dapol pug kit. It's all very theoretical right now. Certainly won't be the weirdest thing I've made.

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11 minutes ago, Londontram said:

If there both Hornby then most likely they will swap but you miss the question I  was asking - what are you thinking of making?

 

My experience with re-wheeling Hornby chassis has been that half the time the axles are different diameters, so you end up swapping the complete wheelset. 

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3 hours ago, Rockalaucher101 said:

An abomination :devil:

No, I'm joking, I'm thinking of a freelance 0-4-0 shunter. Might be diesel, might be steam, haven't decided.

The image I have in my head is kind of Ivor the Engine in appearance, largely scratch built plastic body but might steal that cab off a Dapol pug kit. It's all very theoretical right now. Certainly won't be the weirdest thing I've made.

Hi,

You mean something like this little shunter.

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6 hours ago, Rockalaucher101 said:

Certainly won't be the weirdest thing I've made.

Kind of curious as to what would be now.

 

 

3 hours ago, cypherman said:

Hi,

You mean something like this little shunter.

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Still can't get over how cute this is.

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1 hour ago, Rockalaucher101 said:

Come across a slight snag.

The Black 5 wheels arent much bigger than the ones already on it and they dont really give the comically large look I'm after. The question is though, do I make do with what I have or buy an A1 wheelset?

Know anyone with a broken O Gauge A4?:jester:

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This project is a sort of practical demonstration of Zeno's Paradox.

 

I tried to use the Mandolin A string for a handrail, but it was a little too stiff and I broke one of the knobs (they are very fragile). Fortunately I had printed many more than I needed, so a replacement was immediately available. I think it would be far better to use brass knobs.

 

So instead of the steel string, I've used black nylon (?) bristles cut from a scrubbing brush. And the result is good enough for me.

 

tender_with_handrails00.png.efc83d483865fb160ba7f1e17a7d3005.png

 

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Thanks to @LNWR18901910 for suggesting these rails.

 

In other news, I couldn't progress with the lining because I used up my last sheet of waterslide transfer paper on a mis-print.

 

So I ordered some more, but it took weeks to arrive because it had to cross a border.... But now it's here and I'm ready to go again.

 

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Hi all,

My latest project come sort of bash. More an upgrade to a lonely loco. Lima's J50 was never the swan but more when it was released a "Well at least it is a J50" and something different from the Hornby run of 0-6-0 tanks. It had very little detail and a lot of that was poor. The wheels were not even fully coupled up and ran more like an 0-4-0. But at least the motor was willing and relatively powerful if kept serviced. Then came the new Hornby J50 with all it's bells and whistles. Great detail and it came with 2 bunker types. Now I have about half a dozen Lima J50's. I really liked the look of the raised bunker version of the J50 and wanted one. So the choice was do I buy a new Hornby one or try and do some thing with one of the lima engines.

Being the cheapskate I am and always up for a challenge with old loco's I went the Lima route.

So this is what I have done so far.

 

First off to improve running The engine now picks up current on all 6 wheels with extra pick ups fitted.

Removed and replaced all handrails with metal ones.

New correct size buffers.

New lamp irons, Brake hoses and front coupling hook. The rear one will be fitted when the engine is finished and attached to it's chassis on a more long term basis. It fastens into a the chassis mounting point on the rear of the chassis.

New whistle(Lima engine did not have one) and brass steam valves in place of the awful plastic ones originally fitted.

New Brass footsteps on the front of the engine.

Glazed windows.

Built new raised coalbunker from plasticard.

Full repaint and numbering with the correct engines number for one with the increased bunker. Did not want to just copy the Hornby one just in case I eventually bought one.

Made the boiler bottom and fitted it to the engine.

Made and fitted the insert bases for inside the openings of the water tanks.

Made the Brass pipework and fitted it to the backs of both cab steps.

Fitted a new CD Motor. Now runs so much better.

 

I hope to make the engine fully 6 coupled when I can get a cheap enough spare chassis.

Does any one know how I can get rid of the sheen on the transfers?.

 

 

 

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Edited by cypherman
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The Lima J50/94xx chassis may be appalling but I believe that the bodies of both are actually very accurate in dimensions.  Nice job though; it would be much easier to buy one of those lovely Hornby ones but where's the fun in that?  Your five Lima ones probably cost as much as one new Hornby example.  Thanks, you've just reminded me I have a couple of Lima J50s and 94xxs to practice on and I really should acquire some of these CD motors.

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I remember this and the Hornby J83 were both reviewed in MRC (possibly the same issue). While neither were 'state-of-the-art' like the Mainline J72 then was the Lima was cheaper than the Hornby and more dimensionally accurate. It also had round cab windows at the front rather than elongated 'U's and didn't sit too high on its chassis. Later versions were improved. I'm not 100% sure, but I think it may have even got see-through wheels eventually as well as rather fine coacl rails on the rear cab windows.

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2 hours ago, Northmoor said:

The Lima J50/94xx chassis may be appalling but I believe that the bodies of both are actually very accurate in dimensions.  Nice job though; it would be much easier to buy one of those lovely Hornby ones but where's the fun in that?  Your five Lima ones probably cost as much as one new Hornby example.  Thanks, you've just reminded me I have a couple of Lima J50s and 94xxs to practice on and I really should acquire some of these CD motors.

Hi Northmoor,

Fitting the cd motors is so easy as long as you can solder 2 wires on to the pick ups, Took me 15 minutes from start to finish. Mind you I had already done some of the Lima Prairies in the past. There are a couple of companies now doing these cd motor conversions. I personally us Strathpeffer Junctions conversion kits.

https://www.strathpefferjunction.com/shop/

Mike Trice does a nice upgrade kit for this engine for £14.31.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/AS9BF4KHM/lima-j50-upgade-kit?optionId=137418314&li=shops

Only problem is that the postage from Shapeways is more than the cost of the kit. So I scratch built what I wanted.

Edited by cypherman
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On 07/05/2021 at 19:15, TangoOscarMike said:

In other news, I couldn't progress with the lining because I used up my last sheet of waterslide transfer paper on a mis-print.

 

So I ordered some more, but it took weeks to arrive because it had to cross a border.... But now it's here and I'm ready to go again.

 

There's no doubt that an inkjet printer is a modern marvel, and waterslide transfer paper makes very difficult modelling tasks fairly straightforward.

 

But.

 

Yesterday I spent a while going through my printer's self-cleaning procedure, and making sure that all software elements were in the correct state. Then I printed 3 copies of my lining transfers on half a sheet of paper.

  • Step 2 of the process is to spray a couple of coats of gloss varnish over the printed transfers.
  • And like a fool (so much like a fool that I'm beginning to suspect I am one) I used a brand of varnish that I haven't used before.
  • This resulted in a quite interesting crazed effect. Rather aesthetically pleasing, but no use at all.

I am Captain Haddock.

 

I'll try again tomorrow.

 

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13 hours ago, TangoOscarMike said:

 

There's no doubt that an inkjet printer is a modern marvel, and waterslide transfer paper makes very difficult modelling tasks fairly straightforward.

 

But.

 

Yesterday I spent a while going through my printer's self-cleaning procedure, and making sure that all software elements were in the correct state. Then I printed 3 copies of my lining transfers on half a sheet of paper.

  • Step 2 of the process is to spray a couple of coats of gloss varnish over the printed transfers.
  • And like a fool (so much like a fool that I'm beginning to suspect I am one) I used a brand of varnish that I haven't used before.
  • This resulted in a quite interesting crazed effect. Rather aesthetically pleasing, but no use at all.

I am Captain Haddock.

 

I'll try again tomorrow.

 

Would it be any good for use as crazy paving.... :)

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 08/04/2021 at 18:39, DK123GWR said:

Probably the first thing I've done that could be described as a pugbash is starting to turn a (very battered) GWR body, a Dowlais chassis, and a Hornby troublesome truck into a tender-tank.IMG_20210408_174007.jpg.4107515d2c8fad296769b5365474df69.jpg

The first steps were cutting the cylinders and rear buffers off of the loco before fitting it to the chassis. The coupling hook was then removed from the rear of the loco, and the already damaged coupling on one end of the truck (to use the Sudrian term) cut off completely.

 

The next step was to couple the vehicles. This was done using a small strip of 1mm diameter wire, which will be painted a dark colour at a later stage. The wire was bent to form a loop around the tension lock coupling bar on the rear of the loco. The tender can be attached by connecting the wire loop to the (previously cosmetic) hook moulded onto the front of the wagon. So far, this has worked in both directions light engine and hauling a pair of Mainline/Bachmann (they were second hand unboxed so I don't know which) Mk1 suburbans.IMG_20210408_174118.jpg.85ad0392e0fee7ecefb9d2749d720acf.jpg

 

The next big jobs are painting the wire loop and making the tender look less like a troublesome truck.

My 0-4-0 tender-tank has progressed slightly since my last post. The first subject of interest is the coupling between the loco and the tender. When I tested the loco pulling a freight train (more axles ergo more friction than a passenger train) the loco had a tendency to swing on the coupling as it tried to move forwards, lifting its rear wheels and going nowhere fast while spinning its wheels rapidly. It was also a bit of a pain to get the wire onto the hook every time I needed to couple. I have therefore developed the Mk2 coupling as shown below:

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This version of the coupling is fixed rigidly to the coupling hook of the wagon with PVA (which has had black paint added to disguise the brass wire). This is easy to insert into the loop of the loco's tension lock. Forwards, the loco pulls the tender using the coupling, but backwards it pushes the tender using the force of the tender buffers on the buffer beam of the loco. This system works on all but the very worst track laying (fortunately, the track needs to be relayed anyway to adress electrical issues).

 

The photo above also shows the other major modifications which have been made since my first post, which are all on the tender. The first stage was to cut a square out of the wagon for the fireman to shovel coal through. Following this, the eye markings were removed. This was done with a Hornby track rubber. While it was effective, you can see in the photo the white marks where the plastic has been scratched, and the texture of the planks has also been removed. While this isn't too much of a problem here, I wouldn't use the method in a more visible location.

 

The final alteration I have made is to add coal to the tender. I decided to try out making my own. Stage one involved adding cereal card (painted with a black paint/PVA mix) into the tender until I found a slope that I was happy with, and then fixing it into place using pure PVA (so that I didn't end up with black splodges on the sides of the tender). Stage 2 involved painting the card with PVA, then sprinkling on the rubber granules used in 3G football pitches (if you play on these pitches regularly you have an unlimited supply of the stuff - just tip your shoes upside down over a tub when you take them off). This was then covered in diluted PVA to bond the rubber pieces together. As I wasn't happy with the coverage the first time, I repeated the process once the first lot of glue had dried. The result is a homemade textured coal load included in the cost of football training.

 

Unfortunately neither my photography nor my camera are particularly good, but here is a shot to give you an idea of what the loco looks like at the moment.

 

 

 

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Edited by DK123GWR
Trying (failing) to remove duplicate image
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9 hours ago, DK123GWR said:

Stage 2 involved painting the card with PVA, then sprinkling on the rubber granules used in 3G football pitches (if you play on these pitches regularly you have an unlimited supply of the stuff - just tip your shoes upside down over a tub when you take them off). This was then covered in diluted PVA to bond the rubber pieces together.

 

That's pretty effective. Before reading your description I thought it was real coal.

 

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1 hour ago, TangoOscarMike said:

And all of a sudden it's finished. Thanks are due to @LNWR18901910 and @Gibbo675 

 

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That looks really nice!  A very eyecatching little machine, packed with character.  I wonder how it would look with LMS Coronation-esque bands from the nose, up along the boiler?

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30 minutes ago, Ben B said:

 

That looks really nice!  A very eyecatching little machine, packed with character. 

 

Thank you!

 

30 minutes ago, Ben B said:

I wonder how it would look with LMS Coronation-esque bands from the nose, up along the boiler?

 

It was conceived as a Victorian/Edwardian Steampunk machine, hence the ornate lining. But I'm pretty sure that with the proper livery it would work as a baby Coronation. And perhaps with a pastel-pink and chrome livery it could be something from the 50s.

 

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3 hours ago, TangoOscarMike said:

And all of a sudden it's finished. Thanks are due to @LNWR18901910 and @Gibbo675 for their advice and encouragement.

 

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It looks alright-ish, I think, with my "normal" tender design. 

 

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Small streamliners are ideal for small, fast, short-distance trains. This one connects the city centre with the airship towers, out in the surrounding countryside. It does not stop at small suburban stations.

 

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That's got to be one of the best uses of the humble Hornby 0-4-0 I've ever seen. Take a bow!
 

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