AdamsRadial Posted June 17, 2021 Share Posted June 17, 2021 1 hour ago, Sophia NSE said: The reason I haven't used my trusty multimeter is.... I haven't got one! They're typically £9.99 in Lidls. From what you said about the soldering changing the drivers that actually picked up, I'd guess that you've got too much pressure on one half of the wipers, but I can sense your reluctance to unsolder them and start again. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Halvarras Posted June 18, 2021 Popular Post Share Posted June 18, 2021 This may not embody the kind of inspiring creativity that contributors to this fascinating thread normally display but it involves Hornby's dimensionally-challenged Class 06 and a Nellie chassis, so I think it qualifies.......? Around thirty years ago a modelling friend decided to go O gauge and, for services rendered in OO over a number of years, presented me with a big box of bits. This contained the Nellie chassis, an open-frame (MW-005?) 5-pole motor, gears, wheels and much else besides. While assembling a collection of 4mm Scottish diesels in the Noughties, all Lima or Lima-powered, it occurred to me that I needed a shunter to go with them but fancied a change from the ubiquitous Class 08. Having scratch-built a Class 06 on a Nellie chassis in 1976 (long since sold on) and with Hornby '06' parts readily available at the time, a cunning plan was hatched...... One cast frame, one cab and two bonnet sections were purchased for less than a fiver. I had everything else including MTK plastic brake shoes, A1 cast buffers etc. To make life REALLY interesting I decided to remove 5mm - a scale 15 inches -from its overall width, referring to drawings published in Model Rail 3. Here's the result - still unpainted many years later as it got overtaken by events but I reckon it will end up as D2437 in green before too long. The cab rear middle window has almost disappeared but that's OK as D2425-44 had two large windows instead of three small ones - out with the files. Squeezing the bonnet section meant reprofiling the fuel tank in front of the cab, which meant reshaping the cab front windows to match the new angles. At least the side windows were OK! The cast frame required a hacksaw but at least it had a large hole in the middle. There are reinforcing pieces cut from a whitemetal plate (no idea where I found that now) glued in behind the bufferbeams, so it's really solid. Of course the cast-on bufferstocks were now 5mm too close together so they had to be cut/filed away and new holes drilled for the A1 oval buffers. The marker lights are a combination of plasticard, staples and Peco track pin heads - the missing ones have been made and will be fitted after painting. It has N gauge rail coupling rods (old-school!) and working MTK whitemetal cranks which pivot on small screws securely glued to the frames (as I don't possess a pillar drill) supported by brass washers as bearing surfaces for the cranks - alignment here is critical, else everything binds. I made a mistake in selecting the 15-spoke wheels as Class 06 wheels had 11 spokes and I had 10-spokers to hand, so why didn't I use those? Er.......dunno, but correction is imminent. And those couplings need straightening up too. IMO the Class 06 is now the only diesel type to reach TOPS still deserving of an RTR model to current standards - I'm somewhat surprised Heljan selected the Class 05 over the 06 - but no doubt the moment I have this one fully painted such a thing will be announced. But no doubt it will cost considerably more than a fiver....! 13 20 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted June 19, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 19, 2021 That little loco so deserves to get finished and take pride of place on a layout. John 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Halvarras Posted June 21, 2021 Share Posted June 21, 2021 On 19/06/2021 at 07:37, Dunsignalling said: That little loco so deserves to get finished and take pride of place on a layout. John Agreed John, this has sat around for an embarrassingly long time unfinished. Sadly it is not alone, I have a number of projects which have reached the painting stage and stalled - the problem has been a lack of space, time and opportunity to get the airbrush equipment out for several years now, but I've since retired and moved to a new house so the excuses are wearing thin.....! I'm working my way through a lot of long-standing projects so its time will come, but it looks like that metal frame needs polishing up (again) and a new can of Halfords primer purchased..... If you look closely at the rear 3/4 view you can see where I originally fitted two handrails and a ladder mounting plate to the angled side of the fuel tank - this looked great but sadly I discovered this was wrong because this only applied to D2410-24 with the 3-window cab so I had to remove them. The later 2-window cab locos had a ladder on this side fitted to the side of the radiator casing instead, but the tooling of the model doesn't allow enough room for this to be fitted so it will have to be ignored. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Dunsignalling Posted June 21, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 21, 2021 (edited) Hi Neil, There was, I must confess, something of the "do as I say, not as I do" about my earlier post. I fully understand any temptation not to paint a model like this one. Doing so instantly covers up the thought processes and constructional wheezes that went into making it from what it once was. In the bare metal and plastic it constitutes a sort of modelling diary. Personal guilt for similar procrastination acknowledged! However, since adding a lens very suited to such subjects to my camera outfit, photographing things as I go along has helped reduce my own "legion of the unpainted". John Edited June 21, 2021 by Dunsignalling 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted June 21, 2021 Share Posted June 21, 2021 On 18/06/2021 at 22:26, Neil Phillips said: This may not embody the kind of inspiring creativity that contributors to this fascinating thread normally display but it involves Hornby's dimensionally-challenged Class 06 and a Nellie chassis, so I think it qualifies.......? Around thirty years ago a modelling friend decided to go O gauge and, for services rendered in OO over a number of years, presented me with a big box of bits. This contained the Nellie chassis, an open-frame (MW-005?) 5-pole motor, gears, wheels and much else besides. While assembling a collection of 4mm Scottish diesels in the Noughties, all Lima or Lima-powered, it occurred to me that I needed a shunter to go with them but fancied a change from the ubiquitous Class 08. Having scratch-built a Class 06 on a Nellie chassis in 1976 (long since sold on) and with Hornby '06' parts readily available at the time, a cunning plan was hatched...... One cast frame, one cab and two bonnet sections were purchased for less than a fiver. I had everything else including MTK plastic brake shoes, A1 cast buffers etc. To make life REALLY interesting I decided to remove 5mm - a scale 15 inches -from its overall width, referring to drawings published in Model Rail 3. Here's the result - still unpainted many years later as it got overtaken by events but I reckon it will end up as D2437 in green before too long. The cab rear middle window has almost disappeared but that's OK as D2425-44 had two large windows instead of three small ones - out with the files. Squeezing the bonnet section meant reprofiling the fuel tank in front of the cab, which meant reshaping the cab front windows to match the new angles. At least the side windows were OK! The cast frame required a hacksaw but at least it had a large hole in the middle. There are reinforcing pieces cut from a whitemetal plate (no idea where I found that now) glued in behind the bufferbeams, so it's really solid. Of course the cast-on bufferstocks were now 5mm too close together so they had to be cut/filed away and new holes drilled for the A1 oval buffers. The marker lights are a combination of plasticard, staples and Peco track pin heads - the missing ones have been made and will be fitted after painting. It has N gauge rail coupling rods (old-school!) and working MTK whitemetal cranks which pivot on small screws securely glued to the frames (as I don't possess a pillar drill) supported by brass washers as bearing surfaces for the cranks - alignment here is critical, else everything binds. I made a mistake in selecting the 15-spoke wheels as Class 06 wheels had 11 spokes and I had 10-spokers to hand, so why didn't I use those? Er.......dunno, but correction is imminent. And those couplings need straightening up too. IMO the Class 06 is now the only diesel type to reach TOPS still deserving of an RTR model to current standards - I'm somewhat surprised Heljan selected the Class 05 over the 06 - but no doubt the moment I have this one fully painted such a thing will be announced. But no doubt it will cost considerably more than a fiver....! Oh my goodness! I have a Hornby Class 06 sitting in my "drawer of indecision" mainly because it just seems way too big! Your photos are a "how to" guide to improving it so now I have no excuses! Except, of course, I don't have the older chassis/motor combination. Newbie question: when you removed 5mm from the centre of the footplate casting, did you literally remove equal amounts from both sides or does it not really matter, given that buffers will need to be replaced and a new slot cut for couplings? Also, can anybody suggest a suitably smaller motor to replace the enormous can motor thing as found in the China produced 0-4-0s? Obviously, that also means getting rid of the cradle extension things on the chassis, but not knowing anything at all about motors (other than they go or don't) any advice welcome! I've read before about folk finding motors on eBay, but knowing my luck I'd probably end up with a box full of motors more suited to 1:24 radio controlled model cars! HOURS OF FUN! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Halvarras Posted June 21, 2021 Share Posted June 21, 2021 1 hour ago, SteveyDee68 said: Oh my goodness! I have a Hornby Class 06 sitting in my "drawer of indecision" mainly because it just seems way too big! Your photos are a "how to" guide to improving it so now I have no excuses! Except, of course, I don't have the older chassis/motor combination. Newbie question: when you removed 5mm from the centre of the footplate casting, did you literally remove equal amounts from both sides or does it not really matter, given that buffers will need to be replaced and a new slot cut for couplings? Also, can anybody suggest a suitably smaller motor to replace the enormous can motor thing as found in the China produced 0-4-0s? Obviously, that also means getting rid of the cradle extension things on the chassis, but not knowing anything at all about motors (other than they go or don't) any advice welcome! I've read before about folk finding motors on eBay, but knowing my luck I'd probably end up with a box full of motors more suited to 1:24 radio controlled model cars! HOURS OF FUN! I suppose it's helpful that I showed this before covering it all in paint! The "large hole in the middle" is of course the motor aperture, so this would be best kept central. I did this by scribing a line up the middle at both ends (i.e. up over the bufferbeams) then measuring and scribing two lines each 2.5mm either side of this centre line to file down to. The same process was used in the body parts. I don't have one of those cheap fine-tooth bow hacksaws, which may have allowed two cuts and less filing, instead I have a coarser blade for my Stanley knife handle so one cut and lots of filing instead! The underside view shows the whitemetal plate reinforcing pieces behind the bufferbeam (also used to reduce the coupling openings), it's important to reinforce these joints preferably with metal glued with something solid like epoxy resin. The Hornby model's spurious side boxes were added to hide the motor securing clips. The boxes were removed by grafting in side doors from the second bonnet section but this left the openings in the footplate exposed. The underside view shows the two pieces of brass strip glued in then the top side filled with Miliput filler and smoothed down - this is just about visible in the exterior views. In the head-on view you can just make out how the fuel tank was sawn down both sides and 'spread' to get the angles right - the inside was scribed along the lower crease lines to encourage them to bend to shape then they were secured with a thick piece of plasticard at the top, as seen in the inside view. When set this was cleaned up and a thinner top piece added which was filed to shape and a fuel filler added. I've never examined one of these Hornby 0-4-0s to see if there's a neater way to secure the motor and do away with the clips. As you say, hours of fun.........but isn't that why we do this?! It's certainly helped keep my head straight over the past year ! 3 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveyDee68 Posted June 21, 2021 Share Posted June 21, 2021 Thank you @Neil Phillips for the additional information - all going to come in very useful as I have found all the various bits and put them together as a “can be done” bash! Maybe it would be easier to locate a Triang chassis/motor off eBay - there was a nice one I was looking at but was asking £30 + p&p (which I thought was a little steep for a chassis/motor getting on for 50 years old!!). Cheaper locos can be had, of course, but they tend to have “steam roller” wheels! Looking forward to seeing your loco painted (in due course!) Steve S Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben B Posted June 22, 2021 Share Posted June 22, 2021 It's amazing the difference that narrowing it makes! I'd also be interested in getting a narrower motor, I was trying to build a freelance diesel shunter with a tall, narrow bonnet, but hadn't realised just how chunky the modern motors are... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS1977 Posted June 22, 2021 Share Posted June 22, 2021 On 17/06/2021 at 13:05, TonyMay said: Can't remember if this has been discussed before, but is Polly overscale? My understanding is that Polly is to scale height wise, but stretched lengthways. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
33C Posted June 22, 2021 Share Posted June 22, 2021 16 hours ago, Ben B said: It's amazing the difference that narrowing it makes! I'd also be interested in getting a narrower motor, I was trying to build a freelance diesel shunter with a tall, narrow bonnet, but hadn't realised just how chunky the modern motors are... Look in charity shops for early telephoto type cameras. Some contain as many as 9 miniature motors with worm and gears! Ideal for small 00 gauge loco's, N gauge, TT and T gauge. A tip from a late friend and N modeller. 2 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barclay Posted June 23, 2021 Share Posted June 23, 2021 On 21/06/2021 at 12:56, SteveyDee68 said: Oh my goodness! I have a Hornby Class 06 sitting in my "drawer of indecision" mainly because it just seems way too big! Your photos are a "how to" guide to improving it so now I have no excuses! Except, of course, I don't have the older chassis/motor combination. Newbie question: when you removed 5mm from the centre of the footplate casting, did you literally remove equal amounts from both sides or does it not really matter, given that buffers will need to be replaced and a new slot cut for couplings? Also, can anybody suggest a suitably smaller motor to replace the enormous can motor thing as found in the China produced 0-4-0s? Obviously, that also means getting rid of the cradle extension things on the chassis, but not knowing anything at all about motors (other than they go or don't) any advice welcome! I've read before about folk finding motors on eBay, but knowing my luck I'd probably end up with a box full of motors more suited to 1:24 radio controlled model cars! HOURS OF FUN! Great looking loco. Most of my recent motors have been bought cheaply from China via ebay. You do take pot luck to some extent but they are ludicrously cheap! The Mitsumi M15N I have used and it's approximately 12mm across and 20mm long. The Minebea 15mm square can is very good (Google Minebea 6 pole rotor). Mabuchi are a trusted make too but tend to be bigger. If you are averse to ebay the Mitsumi can be bought from UK traders such as Cambridge Custom Transfers, for about £7, which is still good value in my book. 1 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin S-C Posted July 2, 2021 Share Posted July 2, 2021 That is a very neat and simple change and the stripping down of the old paint and the new colours have gone on beautifully. For those that know, how good a runner is the Electroten chassis, and can it easily be digitised? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Alex TM Posted July 3, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 3, 2021 Hi Martin, Not played with one in a few years but, if I remember correctly, mine just needed the usual running in period before being a reasonable slow runner. Mine had a 6-pin socket near the front of the chassis however limited headroom meant I had to use a right-angled chip (as in the Farish Jinty). Hope that's of help. Regards, Alex. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
dana Posted July 6, 2021 Share Posted July 6, 2021 here's a few ideas . found on pin trest 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HonestTom Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 On 06/07/2021 at 09:33, dana said: here's a few ideas . found on pin trest The first one looks like something out of Chuggington. Fascinating. 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
009 micro modeller Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 56 minutes ago, HonestTom said: The first one looks like something out of Chuggington. Fascinating. With the position of the cowcatcher, headlamp and chimney it looks like a locomotive wearing a cunning disguise, sneakily trying to pass itself off as a coach... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandhole Posted July 12, 2021 Share Posted July 12, 2021 On 06/07/2021 at 09:33, dana said: here's a few ideas . found on pin trest K's were going to make a kit for Hercules. Seriously, they were! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CinderMonkey Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 On 12/07/2021 at 12:55, 009 micro modeller said: With the position of the cowcatcher, headlamp and chimney it looks like a locomotive wearing a cunning disguise, sneakily trying to pass itself off as a coach... Ssshhhh! Be vewry vewry quiet, I'm hunting wrolling stock... 1 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted July 14, 2021 Share Posted July 14, 2021 On 12/07/2021 at 18:26, Sandhole said: K's were going to make a kit for Hercules. Seriously, they were! Are you sure it was K's? I thought it was M&L (Model & Leisure), who made the 850 that it was a version of. The 850 is still available from Alan Gibson. The GWR Crane Tank never appeared. PS. Why do people keep calling them Hercules when there were three of them? Hercules wasn't even the first one built and was built twenty years after the first one. Cyclops and Steropes seem to be forgotten.... Jason 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ben B Posted July 15, 2021 Share Posted July 15, 2021 On 14/07/2021 at 01:18, CinderMonkey said: Ssshhhh! Be vewry vewry quiet, I'm hunting wrolling stock... "Carriage Season!" "Truck Season!" CARRIAGE SEASON!" "TRUCK SEASON!!" 1 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HonestTom Posted July 15, 2021 Share Posted July 15, 2021 On 12/07/2021 at 18:26, Sandhole said: K's were going to make a kit for Hercules. Seriously, they were! It looks like it would be pretty good fodder for a conversion kit. Perhaps something for the 3D printing experts. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS1977 Posted July 15, 2021 Share Posted July 15, 2021 6 hours ago, Ben B said: "Carriage Season!" "Truck Season!" CARRIAGE SEASON!" "TRUCK SEASON!!" "The question is, are you going to take him home and shunt him, or are you going to shunt him now?" "SHUNT ME NOW! SHUNT ME NOW!" 2 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scots region Posted July 15, 2021 Share Posted July 15, 2021 2 hours ago, RJS1977 said: "The question is, are you going to take him home and shunt him, or are you going to shunt him now?" "SHUNT ME NOW! SHUNT ME NOW!" Kinky. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted July 21, 2021 Share Posted July 21, 2021 So, what do you do if you fancy a Southern C class and don't want to shell out on Bachmann prices? You get yourself an Airfix LMS 4F and a GBL C class and start hacking! The C class comes apart eventually I accidentally sliced through the wires connecting the loco to the tender Eventually though, we get this. I'm experimenting with shortening the chasm between loco and tender so hopefully that will work 15 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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