Show us your Pugbashes, Nellieboshes, Desmondifications, Jintysteins

[Sophia NSE]

An R1 I haven't chopped up to make a Q1! 

Still needs a few things to finish it off but I'm shocked at how easy its been to put transfers onto my locos 

3/5ths of the Southern locos needed for Chart Sutton plus the Quarry shunter that is sitting on my unfinished diorama. 

As an aside, is there a nice easy way to drop Hornby wagons/vans down to a better buffer height?

[John Besley]

3 hours ago, Sophia NSE said:

An R1 I haven't chopped up to make a Q1! 

Still needs a few things to finish it off but I'm shocked at how easy its been to put transfers onto my locos 

3/5ths of the Southern locos needed for Chart Sutton plus the Quarry shunter that is sitting on my unfinished diorama. 

As an aside, is there a nice easy way to drop Hornby wagons/vans down to a better buffer height?

On a completely different note have you considered getting a scrap R1 chassis and pulling off a set of wheels to replace the flangeless centre pair as it's one thing that sticks out like a sore them the lack of flanges on the centre drivers.

 

It's pretty easy I did it on mine 40 years ago....

Edited August 12, 2021 by John Besley
.

[Sophia NSE]

8 hours ago, John Besley said:

On a completely different note have you considered getting a scrap R1 chassis and pulling off a set of wheels to replace the flangeless centre pair as it's one thing that sticks out like a sore them the lack of flanges on the centre drivers.

 

It's pretty easy I did it on mine 40 years ago....

I have a few scrap chassis knocking about, what's the best way to get the wheels off?

[robert17649]

use a gear  or hub puller . This allows the wheel to come straight off not distorting the centre. I then put the  new wheel onto the axle using a back to back gauge in the small vice . You can also use the vice to simply push the wheel onto the axle until its flush with the wheel surface. if b-t -b is wrong use the gear puller to get it back to the right width.  Quartering is helped by resting the crank pins in the wheel on the vice quartered roughly then tweaking to correct it.  Hornby wheels are forgiving.I refer you to manna' thread for a clearer description of this process its easier than it sounds.

[HonestTom]

On 12/08/2021 at 01:24, Corbs said:

The Hornby one is almost spot on for 7mm scale standard gauge.

IIRC, there was a layout in Railway Modeller many years ago where someone had replaced the axles and wheels on a Hornby one and used it on an O gauge layout.

[uax6]

Heres a bit of a J83 bash:

 

 

After a lot of slicing and dicing she has become a HR scrap tank. Shes even had the wheelbase changed! Shes just waiting a spray of satin black (I'm even tempted to leave the distressed primer around the smokebox to help give a bit of age to the black...) Theres no lining to go on this one, just the pre-1928 LMS lettering.

 

Andy g

[RedGemAlchemist]

22 minutes ago, uax6 said:

Heres a bit of a J83 bash:

 

 

After a lot of slicing and dicing she has become a HR scrap tank. Shes even had the wheelbase changed! Shes just waiting a spray of satin black (I'm even tempted to leave the distressed primer around the smokebox to help give a bit of age to the black...) Theres no lining to go on this one, just the pre-1928 LMS lettering.

 

Andy g

Very nice start. I do love the Beetlecrusher, and I very much get the vibe of one here.

[cypherman]

Hi all,

I have finally made a start on this little beauty. Triang M7 body on a Wrenn 0-6-2 chassis. Had some motor issues that have been sorted out now and have started the conversion. The body fixing screws have been fitted and they now stay together. Altered the smokebox door on the M7 body as the original one opened to show the firebox. This got in the way of the chassis and had to be modified. All the fittings for it have also arrived. Once this is finished I may possibly do a N2 body on a m7 chassis. Did a dry run and they both seem to fit seems really well. Any way the 0-6-2 is underway. I will post more as it gets further along. 

[Captain_Mumbles]

On 12/08/2021 at 12:59, Neil Phillips said:

 

Well done Sir! Something I considered many years ago when a retailer north of the border had these on sale at just £25, but although it was far more do-able than the Hornby version (which got me all excited..........until I saw it  ) it still looked like too much work for my liking so I chickened out. A pity because I saw 'Alfred' alongside the A3082 road at the rail entrance into Par Docks in summer 1966 when I first got interested in railways, and at a couple of St Blazey depot open days around 1970.

Wessex Wagons have a 'Par Harbour ' PO wagon available if you'd like something really appropriate to hang on it! Since the beginning of last year I now live a short walk from the docks and really must get around to watching a Class 66 squeeze along this wobbly and weed-strewn stretch of track to drop off or collect 'Polybulk' wagons, while it's still there.......these days you never know........

Cheers!

I do think I am going to have fictional names and still haven't decided on the scheme. If all goes to plan they will be shunting the puzzle section of the layout for the bigger locos to take the rakes off them and onto the main line.

[RedGemAlchemist]

10 hours ago, cypherman said:

Hi all,

I have finally made a start on this little beauty. Triang M7 body on a Wrenn 0-6-2 chassis. Had some motor issues that have been sorted out now and have started the conversion. The body fixing screws have been fitted and they now stay together. Altered the smokebox door on the M7 body as the original one opened to show the firebox. This got in the way of the chassis and had to be modified. All the fittings for it have also arrived. Once this is finished I may possibly do a N2 body on a m7 chassis. Did a dry run and they both seem to fit seems really well. Any way the 0-6-2 is underway. I will post more as it gets further along. 

Both of them look great, mate! 

 

 

On 11/08/2021 at 03:46, Captain_Mumbles said:

Gday!

Starting my new layout and found this thing I made a few years ago. Bachmann Ben cut down and shrunk as much as I possibly could (It is still too large) and have it still working to turn it into something more like the real Alfred or Judy. Pretty much made a new and shortened cab out of sheet styrene.

Could still do a lot more to it but I should probably build the layout first.

Cheers!

Ben

 

CHONK.
Very cute little engine. If I can get my hands on a Bachmann Bill or Ben I might do the same.

[Captain_Mumbles]

2 hours ago, RedGemAlchemist said:

Both of them look great, mate! 

 

 

CHONK.
Very cute little engine. If I can get my hands on a Bachmann Bill or Ben I might do the same.

Here is some of the progress pics hopefully showing how I got there and a bit of a comparison pic.

 

[Halvarras]

1 hour ago, Captain_Mumbles said:

Here is some of the progress pics hopefully showing how I got there and a bit of a comparison pic.

 

 

Now I wish I'd forked out that twenty-five quid back in.........whenever it was!! 

[cypherman]

Hi all, 

Here is an update of the M7/N2 tank merge.

What has been done so far:

1 Replaced the damaged armature in the motor.

2 Moved the engines whistle further back and put in 2 steam valves. Filed off the original ones that were on the steam dome.

3 New coupling hooks front and rear.

4 new steam and vacuum pipes front and rear. lamp irons front and rear.

5 New steps on the back of the bunker.

6 New top guard rail on the bunker.

7 Ventilation hatch on the top of the cab.

8 some other bits of brass work and steps on the engine tanks and splashers.

9 fitted a cover over the 2 holes where the original chassis protruded through.

10 Fitted guard rails on the rear windows.

That's it so far.

Edited August 14, 2021 by cypherman

[TurboSnail]

A Peckett B2, bashed into approximately a Peckett B1 - new cab, bufferbeams, chimney, toolboxes, tank front handrail and still got replacement steps to add. Pictured with my other Peckett-bash.

 

[BenNewland]

On 10/08/2021 at 23:45, BlueLightning said:

 

Ask and ye shall receive, yes she's a bit jerky at slow speeds, no problem when going faster, hopefully some running will help that, but she did get a repaint by someone else before I had her (although not a lot of running, so I still don't think she is run in) and they also painted the con rods, so I don't know if that has anything to do with it, I shall have to try removing it.

 

 

 

 

 

yes she is the Hornby model, obviously the biggest change I have made is the removal of the cab, and the dumb buffers, She has acquired a number since my video the other day, also known as me sticking the DCC address on the side in nice large numbers so I can read it!

 

The livery is Humbrol number 25 blue, with Phoenix Precision LBSCR Marsh Umber around the edges of the panels, and Fox Transfers white-black-white lining. The name is from my K's Lion kit (Lion wearing the name Thunderbolt instead). Next job, add a crew, which will be from Andy Stadden's Victorian Loco Crew range.

 

Gary

Hi Gary,

Thanks for that. Thanks for the info about the paint scheme too. I like it. The umber looks almost black, but works realy well with the lining.

I think that you might find that the painted rods and motion may well be the issue with the jerky running. It is a shame. Perhaps a tiny bit of oil applied with a thin wire, might help. Otherwise, it is probably quite a tricky job to take it off and use paint stipper etc to take it off.

 

When mine was jerky, the connecting rod was rubbing everso slightly agains the bracket holding the valve gear motion (sliders?). After a while the paint rubbed off and it worked smoothly.

 

Very brave to hack up a perfectly good model. Impressed.

 

Thanks,

Ben

[BlueLightning]

1 hour ago, BenNewland said:

Hi Gary,

Thanks for that. Thanks for the info about the paint scheme too. I like it. The umber looks almost black, but works realy well with the lining.

I think that you might find that the painted rods and motion may well be the issue with the jerky running. It is a shame. Perhaps a tiny bit of oil applied with a thin wire, might help. Otherwise, it is probably quite a tricky job to take it off and use paint stipper etc to take it off.

 

When mine was jerky, the connecting rod was rubbing everso slightly agains the bracket holding the valve gear motion (sliders?). After a while the paint rubbed off and it worked smoothly.

 

Very brave to hack up a perfectly good model. Impressed.

 

Thanks,

Ben

 

Thanks Ben,

 

It's had a few hours running since that last video and seems to be smoother now, including 3 hours on a livestream last night and, 10 minutes doing some actual shunting in a video coming out on my YouTube channel tomorrow.

 

Gary

[cypherman]

Hi all,

I did not realise that this engine I was cobbling together had an engine very similar to it in real life, The LBSC E4. It is very similar. I had no idea how similar they were. This is the finished engine. just now needs painting and transfers.

So this is what's happened so far.

1 Replaced the damaged armature in the motor.

2 Moved the engines whistle further back and put in 2 steam valves. Filed off the original ones that were on the steam dome.

3 New coupling hooks front and rear.

4 new steam and vacuum pipes front and rear. lamp irons front and rear.

5 New steps on the back of the bunker.

6 New top guard rail on the bunker.

7 Ventilation hatch on the top of the cab.

8 some other bits of brass work and steps on the engine tanks and splashers. The bottom step on the back of the tank in the photo's showed up it was not square.

   I have since then filed it down a little to be square and more in keeping with the top step.

9 fitted a cover over the 2 holes where the original chassis protruded through.

10 Fitted guard rails on the rear windows.

11 Put wire handrails on doors, tank sides and rear of the bunker

12 Put real coal in the bunker.

13 Put a brass arch over both the front wheels to try and draw the eye away from what is a rather large front splasher. I have no intention of trying to remove them and         put smaller splashers on. Too much work for no real gain.

As a class I thought I would christen them MN72 class.

Edited August 17, 2021 by cypherman

[Mike 84C]

uax6 whose chimney did you use please? It looks just the job for a little Irish project I'm working on.

 Thanks Mick

[RosiesBoss]

Question:

 

What do you get when you cross a Bachmann AT&SF 2-6-0, A Tri-ang clockwork 0-6-0ST and a Tri-ang Polly 0-4-0T?

 

Answer:

GWR (ex CM&DPLR) 28 “Cleobury”.

 

Model before painting:

 

Finished model:

 

For more information about this build and more images, see: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/167158-gwr-28-“cleobury”-–-ex-cmdplr/

 

Regards,

Rob

[Corbs]

That is absolutely superb bashing

[Sandhole]

6 hours ago, RosiesBoss said:

Question:

 

What do you get when you cross a Bachmann AT&SF 2-6-0, A Tri-ang clockwork 0-6-0ST and a Tri-ang Polly 0-4-0T?

 

Answer:

GWR (ex CM&DPLR) 28 “Cleobury”.

 

Model before painting:

 

Finished model:

 

For more information about this build and more images, see: https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/167158-gwr-28-“cleobury”-–-ex-cmdplr/

 

Regards,

Rob

You have captured the look perfectly.
Stupendous work!

Chris.

[BenNewland]

As above, very good work indeed. Thanks for linking to the build thread.

Ben

[Sophia NSE]

Here's my latest attempt at an ex SECR Q1 0-4-4... 

I might give it a coat of primer tomorrow to make it look less Frankenstein's monster.  It's mostly Wrenn/Dublo R1 with a cab spliced together from a pair of J72 cabs. I even removed the bulbous lumps from the firebox that were included to fit the original motor underneath.

"Do you actually make any other locos?" I hear you ask. Why yes, yes I do... 

As close to an ex LCDR T class as I can get from a J72. Just need to find some safety valves and give the handrails a coat of paint before gloss varnishing ready for transfers

[TurboSnail]

1 hour ago, Sophia NSE said:

As close to an ex LCDR T class as I can get from a J72. Just need to find some safety valves and give the handrails a coat of paint before gloss varnishing ready for transfers

 

Could you add a slice of thick plasticard to the side of the tanks, and file it back to get both the tank sticking out from the cab, and the distinctive curve to the top of the tank?

[Sophia NSE]

34 minutes ago, TurboSnail said:

 

Could you add a slice of thick plasticard to the side of the tanks, and file it back to get both the tank sticking out from the cab, and the distinctive curve to the top of the tank?

I did actually think about that earlier. I'll have a practice on an already hacked body