Sandhole Posted December 28, 2017 Share Posted December 28, 2017 Hi folks, here are a few pics from the infamous 'Bash a Pug' competition held at the 009 AGM way back in the mid noughties (I think 2005?), plus a few others. The first is an extraordinary 00 Garratt based bash that was listed on Ebay some years ago. Then, two of Mick Thornton's famous conversions. Next, the candidates for the 009 competition, with the North Egyptian Light Railway Pugbash being the winner. The last pic is one of a full size Pugbash, showing that there nearly is a prototype for everything. Enjoy! David There are some truly aesthetically pleasing locomotives there! I particularly like the 0-4-0 on, I presume, an Ibertran chassis , the 2-6-4 tank and the Fairlie. Tasty!!!! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northmoor Posted January 14, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 14, 2018 After a couple of months frustrating non-activity on my Plymouth and several other modelling projects, today I've shortened a chassis to fit the modified body. The existing buffers have been cut off leaving just the square end as these locate in the slots in the buffer beam and drilled to accept some nice BIG metal buffers, which to me are a must on industrial diesels. The steps needed to be cut right back to fit under the angled corners (I should make up some new steps when I'm feeling brave, plus some wire handrails and grab rails on the front corners) I've actually made a boo-boo with the chassis as it should have been cut down more evenly, as the two axles sit too far back. Not too worried though, as I have another five to practice on! The rear of the chassis broke in two when cut off so will need to build up a new one with plasticard, then paint in final livery, transfers (I need some freight company logos - Fox?), glazing and a bit of weathering. Then repeat another five times...... 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted January 15, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 15, 2018 I think this one from RosiesBoss deserves inclusion http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/95885-makeover-of-tri-ang-north-british-shunter/ 11 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Neil Posted January 15, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 15, 2018 It appears as though I've already contributed to this thread at the beginning but here's one that has passed under the radar. It's a narrow gauge (009) Barclay with a cut down Hornby body on a Kato mechanism. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandhole Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 I think this one from RosiesBoss deserves inclusion http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/95885-makeover-of-tri-ang-north-british-shunter/ Couldn't agree more! 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Northmoor Posted January 15, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 15, 2018 I think this one from RosiesBoss deserves inclusion http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/95885-makeover-of-tri-ang-north-british-shunter/ I agree - just a good repaint, some glazing and decent wheels transforms it. I have one which needs this treatment; although sadly it looks very little like the NB prototype, it makes an excellent generic industrial diesel. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
locoholic Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Does anyone know how to dismantle the Bachmann Junior 0-4-0ST a.k.a Percy the saddle tank, please??!! By judicious levering I've got as far as shown in the photo by use of fairly excessive force, but no further progress seems possible without inflicting damage. I can't see how the thing was assembled in the first place! Thanks Sorry, the ipad has turned the picture upside down. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sir douglas Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 i can see a clip that youve already freed but is there any clips on the front?, or there may be screws inside 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted January 20, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 20, 2018 Just had a go on my 'Greg'. Take the keeper plate off the underside (3 screws) The the wheels come off as well as the metal chassis baseplate, revealing the body clips. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Harrison Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Where do we stand on these? Triang R.153 saddle tank shunter (also R.151, clockwork version of same). Based loosely on an SECR tender loco converted to a saddle tank. I'm working on one at the moment trying to reduce the Brobdingnagian aspects of its character and give it something of the Gorton (Sacre/ Robinson) look, like this. (Photo courtesy the LNER website). 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
locoholic Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Just had a go on my 'Greg'. Take the keeper plate off the underside (3 screws) The the wheels come off as well as the metal chassis baseplate, revealing the body clips. Yes, that certainly helped. It's certainly a weird design inside. Any idea how to remove the smokebox/chimney moulding? I've removed all the screws in the vicinity, but it's still there. One last chance, before I take a saw to it! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
locoholic Posted January 20, 2018 Share Posted January 20, 2018 Where do we stand on these? Triang R.153 saddle tank shunter (also R.151, clockwork version of same). Based loosely on an SECR tender loco converted to a saddle tank. I'm working on one at the moment trying to reduce the Brobdingnagian aspects of its character and give it something of the Gorton (Sacre/ Robinson) look, like this. I've got the body of one of these in my to do heap. I was going to start by sawing so that the running plate separates from the boiler/cab etc, and then saw parallel to the tops of the splashers, so that the boiler sits a few millimetres lower. I was going to try it on the Electrotren 0-6-0 tank engine chassis, but that will probably involve shortening the body, too. (Photo courtesy the LNER website). 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold phil_sutters Posted January 21, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 21, 2018 (edited) I've got the body of one of these in my to do heap. I was going to start by sawing so that the running plate separates from the boiler/cab etc, and then saw parallel to the tops of the splashers, so that the boiler sits a few millimetres lower. I was going to try it on the Electrotren 0-6-0 tank engine chassis, but that will probably involve shortening the body, too. (Photo courtesy the LNER website). There's another photo of this class at http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/gallery/image/79496-gcr-cl-18t-060st-372b-lner-cl-j59-neasden-17-9-1921/ if that's of any help. It will be interesting what you can do with such a clunky original - good luck! Edited January 21, 2018 by phil_sutters Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Harrison Posted January 21, 2018 Share Posted January 21, 2018 There's another photo of this class at http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/gallery/image/79496-gcr-cl-18t-060st-372b-lner-cl-j59-neasden-17-9-1921/ if that's of any help. It will be interesting what you can do with such a clunky original - good luck! The original model was built around a clockwork mechanism- it's tall enough that the standard Triang/ Hornby 0-6-0 chassis can fit in it backwards (motor at the smokebox). Turning the chassis around and having the motor in the cab allows me to drop the body by around 4mm, which is slightly more than I need (it's nice for once to have a bit more leeway than I need than a bit less than I would like to have!). Comparing the basic model with the drawings of the J58/ J59 classes I have (MRC, December 1968), the length is slightly off (but nothing that looks obviously wrong) whilst the height is the big issue to deal with. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lu4472ke Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 came across this on Ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Hornby-OO-Gauge-R057-Caledonian-Railway-Class-0f-Pug-0-4-0st-No-270/1423289947?iid=142679175139 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Harrison Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 I've given something of a blow-by-blow account of building a GCR Humpy tank on my blog, but here is the condensed 'highlights' for anyone who wants to have a go for themselves. Once I'd cut the body up into separate pieces (running plate, saddle tank/ cab and smokebox) I cut 4mm off the bottom of the cab and bunker and I think 10 or 11mm off the bottom of the boiler/ saddle tank. This photo above shows the cut-down loco pieced back together, with cast metal chimney and dome fitted. Because I'm using the original chassis, I couldn't build a boiler as such but had to reinstate the 'cheeks' below the saddle tank. This is at an early stage of building the splashers. New cab sheets were built and handrails added. And finally painted, with the fairly obvious piping below the tank fitted. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted February 14, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted February 14, 2018 Yay! I was hoping you would post that on here. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS1977 Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 Given the era, I'm rather surprised Peter Denny never did that, AFAIK (though converted to EM, of course!). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
James Harrison Posted February 14, 2018 Share Posted February 14, 2018 Given the era, I'm rather surprised Peter Denny never did that, AFAIK (though converted to EM, of course!). I'm sure he built an 0-6-0 saddle tank. I can't remember off the top of my head though whether he built one of these or the Pollitt dock tank. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted March 1, 2018 Share Posted March 1, 2018 (edited) This is a Polly Bash from many years ago. A sawn off Mainline J72 chassis forms the inner works, it does not work at the moment. I think the motor windings are damaged somehow. The Polly body has had the boiler cut away and a section of the footplate taken out and the buffer beam stuck back on. The boiler is a bit of plastic tube set lower down than the original Polly one. The inside edges of the tanks are modelled. A small loco infront of my industrialised Jinty, my aim was for a boxy tank like the Southern Railway dock tanks. The insides, some serious hack saw work on the chassis there, some lead inside the boiler. That cheesy stuff is Aradite epoxy glue A photo taken with a flash light to show the low slung boiler. And again with no flash. Edited April 5, 2018 by relaxinghobby 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted March 2, 2018 Share Posted March 2, 2018 Pollybash 2-3-18 After dusting it down and photography this little loco, I tested the resistance across the wheels with a digital volt meter. Using the resistance setting I got about 400 ohm for several positions of the motor turning the cogs by hand, seems electricity is getting through the chassis. Taking it to the controller and apply power, it does moves. I vaguely remember long ago getting some Mainline spares, brushes springs and a new motor rotor. I must have fitted them. A smear of old model grease on the cogs is still soft and not dried up so I have not cleaned it off, also I prepared the chassis by putting tiny drops of model oil via the end of a thin wire on all the cog pivots and wheel bearings etc. This picture shows the underside with the wheel retainer taken off. The rear section is held on with it's original self tapping screw, the front section with one into a new hole drilled for it ( pink arrow ). This has kept the Mainline brake detail. The green arrow points to a 20 thou' or ½ mill plasticard spacer to push apart the two split chassis halves. I can't remember why this was needed, probably because there is so much side play in the wheels, as it was an 0-6-0 chassis to begin with and now it is a 4 wheel chassis it does not need much side play between the wheels and chassis block. This model switched me away from PECO code 100 universal track with it generous flange ways through the points, It easily derailed, the narrow wheels fell into the frog vee gap, so I started to make home made track with code 65 rail where I could control the flange way gap widths and then later PECO code 75 rail system. Leading me to abandon the old Tri-ang chunky wheels, finer scale modelling perhaps? 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedGemAlchemist Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 This is a Polly Bash from many years ago. A sawn off Mainline J72 chassis forms the inner works, it does not work at the moment. I think the motor windings are damaged somehow. The Polly body has had the boiler cut away and a section of the footplate taken out and the buffer beam stuck back on. The boiler is a bit of plastic tube set lower down than the original Polly one. The inside of the tanks are modelled. P1010066a.JPG A small loco infront of my industrialised Jinty, my aim was for a boxy tank like the Southern Railway dock tanks. P1010070a.JPG The insides, some serious hack saw work on the chassis there, some lead inside the boiler. That cheesy stuff is Araditeepoxy glue P1010072.JPG A photo taken with a flash light to show the low boiler. P1010073.JPG And again with no flash. Oh wow. I love it! It's utterly adorable! I WANT IT. In seriousness though, great job, man. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedGemAlchemist Posted March 3, 2018 Share Posted March 3, 2018 (edited) Only a slight Nelliebosh, but I'd say that my own KLR No.1 Bulldog deserves to be on here (depicted here with my B12 rebuild No.2 Wild Rover for scale.) Opened up the cab, new whistle (from a Smokey Joe, amusingly enough), new paintwork, some minor resculpting on the tanks. Come to think of it, Wild Rover itself has the smokebox from a starter loco and the chimney and dome from a 101, so it kind of fits to be on here itself. Also, FUUUU-SION! HA! (Automatically dating my own childhood with that reference while making myself look like even more of a dork in front of my peers. Nothing new there.) No.3 here (shown with Bulldog in an early stage of development) is... (phew...) Smokebox, bunker and whistle from the same 101 that was brutalised to provide a dome and chimney for Wild Rover, and the rest from a cut-and-shut Caley Pug; plus the chassis will probably be from an L&Y Pug. So it's technically a 101-Double-Pugbash. Christ. You may recognise these photos from my workbench thread. Sorry for the reuse of photos. Edited March 3, 2018 by RedGemAlchemist 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedGemAlchemist Posted March 16, 2018 Share Posted March 16, 2018 (edited) Does the Hornby Dublo starter tank count? In that case, my own No.4 Mastodon also deserves to be on here. Edited March 16, 2018 by RedGemAlchemist 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickon Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 I've been looking into building traction engine based loco from a Keil Kraft Fowler ploughing engine and a small 0-4-0 chassis. The photo shows the boiler balanced on top of an Airfix pug chassis. I think the wheels look a bit small; Does anybody know of a chassis with a similar or shorter wheel base and bigger wheels, or would I be better off fitting a different wheel set to the pug or cutting down an 0-6-0 chassis to get the really close-set wheels. The model will probably have to be unpowered on account of the very low boiler unless there is a suitable cheap chassis with a motor in the cab. Any ideas?? 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now