Show us your Pugbashes, Nellieboshes, Desmondifications, Jintysteins

[Moxy]

It tidies up rather well considering it's a Spanish HO shunter!

 

 

It is based on a Sharp Stewart design exported to Spain in 1880, discussed here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/42181-0-3-0-t-kerr-stuart/?p=572760

 

HTH

 

Moxy

[Sandhole]

I've just completed something similar, though I wasn't brave enough to remove the cylindars (I thought it might look a bit front heavy as the first wheel set looked a little too set-back in my eyes, but I evidently should have just gone for it looking at your loco!) Like you I replaced the cab (a Dapol pug if I remember correctly), and added a dome and safety valve cover using stuff from the spares box. It tidies up rather well considering it's a Spanish HO shunter!

 

DSC_0401.JPG

 

DSC_0403.JPG

Oh, that is georgeous!!!!

Respect!!!

                     C.

[Frappington Jct]

It is based on a Sharp Stewart design exported to Spain in 1880, discussed here http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/42181-0-3-0-t-kerr-stuart/?p=572760

 

HTH

 

Moxy

 

That's why I chose it as a project! I was more referring to the fact that the model as it comes is very-much not of British outline (and technically to the wrong scale) what with all the various features and that tiny cab, so it still needs a fair bit of work from someone with rather basic modelling skills at best!

[Dickon]

I kept the cylinders on the Hornby Ontracks Taff Vale loco that I converted to something more like the  Welsh original using a cut down Airfix pug cab and lots more from the scrap box.. The Taff Vale loco should have inside cylinders but I couldn't see a how to remove them with out damaging the circuit board glued to their mounting.

 

See post 238 on this thread or post 52 on the thread 'Ontracks Taff Vale & GWR 0-6-0 Locomotives for more detail.

Edited October 17, 2018 by Dickon

[RedGemAlchemist]

I kept the cylinders on the Hornby Ontracks Taff Vale loco that I converted to something more like the Welsh original using a cut down Airfix pug cab and lots more from the scrap box.. The Taff Vale loco should have inside cylinders but I couldn't see a how to remove them with out damaging the circuit board glued to their mounting.

 

See post 238 on this thread or post 52 on the thread 'Ontracks Taff Vale & GWR 0-6-0 Locomotives for more detail.

Gorgeous! Nice work mate!

[47137]

I kept the cylinders on the Hornby Ontracks Taff Vale loco that I converted to something more like the  Welsh original using a cut down Airfix pug cab and lots more from the scrap box.. The Taff Vale loco should have inside cylinders but I couldn't see a how to remove them with out damaging the circuit board glued to their mounting.

 

See post 238 on this thread or post 52 on the thread 'Ontracks Taff Vale & GWR 0-6-0 Locomotives for more detail.

Very nice.

 

The circuit board will pull off the cylinder assembly. Doing this reveals a screw which is holding the cylinder moulding onto the chassis.

 

I think, the cylinders look fine on your model, Taff Vale or not.

 

- Richard.

[Skinnylinny]

Lots of lovely bashes of the Electrotren 0-6-0. I went for a fairly generic Anglicisation of mine, removing that strange safety valve and the front sandbox. I also filled in the rear centre cab window and respaced the buffers, among other small changes. A repaint, and Sir Samuel Vimes is ready to join the Great Southern Railway fleet! (Well, I'm considering changing the chimney, and she needs lamp irons and vacuum pipes, but for now she'll do to fill in a gap in the roster)

 

[47137]

This sort of activity could become addictive, what started as an amusement for an evening has kept me out of mischief in all my spare time this week.

 

I thought the Electrotren firebox was too long so the cab could move forwards to hide some of it. This would make room for a bunker too, this is cut from the original cab and has an extension of styrene so it looks bigger. The extension hides my crooked cutting too. The cab is from the Airfix kit because this was easier to cut down than the Hornby spare one. The motor is now visible in the cab but only shows if you go looking for it.

 

On the body moulding I cut away the steam pipes and glued in some sand boxes, and the steps are from a brass etch from the former 'Mainly Trains'. The handrail knobs really should be Markits 'short' ones for H0 but I have taken the opportunity to use up most of my 'medium' ones. The original chimney is too tall so I must decide whether to cut it down and risk getting it crooked or find a complete replacement.

 

- Richard.

 

[Marly51]

And how's this for a co-incidence? The drawings for the Neilson pug (Well the North British version) were in Model Railway News for October 1967 - look what was on the page before:

 

IMG_20180926_0004.jpg

 

Any takers?

Just love these old drawings!! But not quite ready for the challenge!

[relaxinghobby]

Scrapyard pug now reshaped.

Reduced the length of the cab to give a different look.

 

Reshaped front and back spectacle plates

 

Compare this to photo in #494

Might try to motorise it if I can find a suitable motor bogie?

Edited October 22, 2018 by relaxinghobby

[60012 Commonwealth of Australia]

Here's my WIP - a cabless 0-4-0 industrial shunter from the Hornby 2005 Collectors club loco - purchased from Hattons and shipped to Australia for $21 AUD including shipping and bank international transfer fee. Unfortunately as delivered the motor mount was shattered - luckily I had a spare one floating around. Not sure where the motor or pickups on the spare one went though!

First I cut the cab, safety valve and funnel off.

 

Next, I built up a coal bunker front plate, footplate, and firebox backplate - extended out by a couple of bits of 1mm styrene to clear the motor. I also cut off the ridiculous looking tension-lock couplers.

 

Next, I went through my box of bits and found a new safety valve and funnel from an old Alan Gibson kit (bought 2nd hand and missing a bunch of parts, so now used for spares), and a set of HO scale buffers (slightly small I know, but sort of achieve the cheaply-built look I want). These were all cleaned up and fitted, and that brings it to the point it's at now.

 

In the next week or two I'll build up some sort of detail on the back plate, then paint it, add a crew and DCC decoder, and 3-link couplings. 

Edited October 29, 2018 by 60012 Commonwealth of Australia

[ikks]

That looks really great.

 

Rgds......Mike

[Corbs]

Here's my WIP - a cabless 0-4-0 industrial shunter from the Hornby 2005 Collectors club loco - purchased from Hattons and shipped to Australia for $21 AUD including shipping and bank international transfer fee. Unfortunately as delivered the motor mount was shattered - luckily I had a spare one floating around. Not sure where the motor or pickups on the spare one went though!

First I cut the cab, safety valve and funnel off.

6.jpg3.jpg

 

Next, I built up a coal bunker front plate, footplate, and firebox backplate - extended out by a couple of bits of 1mm styrene to clear the motor. I also cut off the ridiculous looking tension-lock couplers.

8.jpg5.jpg10.jpg7.jpg

 

Next, I went through my box of bits and found a new safety valve and funnel from an old Alan Gibson kit (bought 2nd hand and missing a bunch of parts, so now used for spares), and a set of HO scale buffers (slightly small I know, but sort of achieve the cheaply-built look I want). These were all cleaned up and fitted, and that brings it to the point it's at now.2.jpg1.jpg

 

In the next week or two I'll build up some sort of detail on the back plate, then paint it, add a crew and DCC decoder, and 3-link couplings. 

 

I love this kind of stuff, just goes to show that changing a few things can transform the look of something so much.

[Poor Old Bruce]

Lots of lovely bashes of the Electrotren 0-6-0. I went for a fairly generic Anglicisation of mine, removing that strange safety valve and the front sandbox. I also filled in the rear centre cab window and respaced the buffers, among other small changes. A repaint, and Sir Samuel Vimes is ready to join the Great Southern Railway fleet! (Well, I'm considering changing the chimney, and she needs lamp irons and vacuum pipes, but for now she'll do to fill in a gap in the roster)

 

Sir Samuel Vimes.jpg

 

This is a few days late catching up.

 

1 - Try 'Bambi' staples for lamp irons. Bear in mind that if it's not a main line company loco it doesn't necessarily need a full set. Look at some photos, lots of industrials only had one lamp iron which was at the top of the smokebox

 

2 - What does an industrial shunter need vacuum pipes for?

[Corbs]

2 - What does an industrial shunter need vacuum pipes for?

 

'Tis owned by the Great Southern Railway good sire and would also be used for passenger carrying vehicles of the continuous braked variety.

[Skinnylinny]

As Corbs says, Sir Samuel Vimes is a loco which is intended for branch passenger work, or possibly station pilot work, so will need to be able to pull passenger stock. Ergo, vacuum pipes will be fitted. It's unlikely that this loco will see the mainline passenger stock (that being purely reserved for the bigger engines, such as the 2-4-0 currently being bodged from a GBL C class and a Hornby Midland Compound chassis) but for a couple of 6-wheelers it should do nicely.

As for the lamp irons, given that it is not unknown for GSR locos to run onto LSWR metals, it may be necessary to try to fit six lamp irons to each end of this little beauty!

[TJC05]

Hi everyone

 

Has anyone got any photos of a detailed backhead that they have made?

 

Cheers

-Tom

[TangoOscarMike]

Hi everyone

 

Has anyone got any photos of a detailed backhead that they have made?

 

Cheers

-Tom

 

I've been lurking on this thread and not posting, since I'm offering products for sale. But since you ask, here is my crude, bare-minimum, easily-painted (relatively easily) backhead from one of my 3D printed tank engine bodies.

 

I'm far from being an expert, but I think I've done enough to make it look OK to the untrained eye. There are:

• Two fillers.
• Two water gauges.
• A regulator.
• A brake, with vacuum gauge.
• A firebox door (the top of the door is just visible in this picture).
• A pressure gauge (hidden by the cab roof in this picture).

 

Cheers

-Other Tom

[Northroader]

I’d be inclined to place your sight glasses for the water level a bit higher up, as the level had to be higher than the top of the inside firebox. The same applies to your regulator, as the rod from this to the steam dome would have to pass over the inner firebox. The boiler was filled by two vertical pipes ending in a “clack box” one way valve at the top of each. Some old engines had these either side on the front ring of the boiler, otherwise on the backhead going up either side of the fire hole, and they’re quite noticeable. Above the fire hole door you could put a small transverse shelf where you could have an oil can keeping warm. The other very prominent feature tucked to the side of the boiler on the drivers side is the reverser, either a big screw wheel or a quadrant lever a bit like a signal box lever. To round it off have a vertical shaft with handle on the top, fireman’s side against the bunker, to work the handbrake. These are all the more noticeable features which aren’t too demanding to model, there’s some more handwheels and pipes you could do, but it all gets terribly fiddly.

[TJC05]

I've been lurking on this thread and not posting, since I'm offering products for sale. But since you ask, here is my crude, bare-minimum, easily-painted (relatively easily) backhead from one of my 3D printed tank engine bodies.

 

I'm far from being an expert, but I think I've done enough to make it look OK to the untrained eye. There are:

 

• Two fillers.
• Two water gauges.
• A regulator.
• A brake, with vacuum gauge.
• A firebox door (the top of the door is just visible in this picture).
• A pressure gauge (hidden by the cab roof in this picture).

backhead.png

 

Cheers

-Other Tom

Thanks very much. I think the best thing to do is keep it clean and simple

[TangoOscarMike]

I’d be inclined to place your sight glasses for the water level a bit higher up, as the level had to be higher than the top of the inside firebox. The same applies to your regulator.......

 

Thank you Northroader. This is what I like about RMweb - one scratches the surface of a topic and instantly hits a rich vein of knowledge and advice.

 

I will definitely incorporate what you've said into future designs, and hopefully into another revision of this design.

 

There is in fact a lever reverser. I forgot to mention it because it's not actually visible in this picture. It's a little bit small and inadequate, and it's mashed into the right hand side of the firebox because (with Shapeways' "strong and flexible" plastic) the 3D printing process couldn't support the entire length of the lever, standing upright on its own. 

 

Cheers

Tom

[Ruston]

Hi everyone

 

Has anyone got any photos of a detailed backhead that they have made?

 

Cheers

-Tom

I made this from plasticard, plastic rod and some etched handwheels and bits of copper wire.

 

 

[TangoOscarMike]

I made this from plasticard, plastic rod and some etched handwheels and bits of copper wire.

 

 

I blush and doff my cap sir!

[WaysideWorks]

Hey all, I'm looking to REALLY bash Caley into an LNER Y6/GER G15. Though I don't know what materials I should use. The budget isn't all too high, around 30 pounds, something like that.

[Londontram]

Working on a limited budget plasticard would seem an obvious choice. A sheet of wood panel (plank) inscribed plasticard for the main body to save money the same sheet could be used reverse side for the chassis and skirt and maybe a second sheet of 10thou plasticard for the window framing and body panel details, cow catchers etc.

If your a tight git like me you can save the clear plastic off blister packs for glazing.