Show us your Pugbashes, Nellieboshes, Desmondifications, Jintysteins

[Barclay]

Nearly there now. It needs brakes, brake handle, couplings, motion bracket and weathering.

 

Neilson1-1.jpg

 

Neilson2-1.jpg

Lovely work - and what a colour!

[Ruston]

What company would it represent - North British, LBSCR, M&GN Joint Railway or private owner?

It's actually the livery of the Drumgrange Coal & Iron Coy. The loco represents their No.2 after its 1903 rebuild. It ran amain into the G&SWR exchange sidings, when at the head of a train of pig iron, and sustained damage to the left hand cylinder and motion. It was rebuilt in the company's workshops and a cab was added. In the accident the crew escaped unharmed but the shunter's mug of cocoa was upset.  It's all detailed in the Oakwood Press book The Lesser-Known And Fictional Mineral railways Of Ayrshire.

Edited December 14, 2018 by Ruston

[Poor Old Bruce]

I have made a new set and have had the chassis running but the wheels are still wobbly. I'll finish the cosmetic work and see how long I can stand the wobble before I buy some more wheels, bin the Branchlines chassis and build my own instead. Photos, tomorrow. Probably.

 

Is there a problem with the Branchlines chassis that makes the wheels wobble?

[chuffinghell]

I don't have a Pug bash so instead here's a bashful Pug

[Poor Old Bruce]

I don't have a Pug bash so instead here's a bashful Pug

 

All together now - Ahhhhh 

[Ruston]

Is there a problem with the Branchlines chassis that makes the wheels wobble?

Not that I know of.

[Ruston]

 

 

 

I pulled the wheels off and put them back on again. There's now far less wobble. I made up the toolboxes that go under the footplate from plastikard and fitted the brake gear. The brake handle is made from an old plastic handrail knob, from an old K's kit, plus a piece of bent wire. It's now ready for weathering.

 

 

[Tullygrainey]

Neilson2a-1.jpg

 

Neilson-1.jpg

 

Neilson2b-1.jpg

 

I pulled the wheels off and put them back on again. There's now far less wobble. I made up the toolboxes that go under the footplate from plastikard and fitted the brake gear. The brake handle is made from an old plastic handrail knob, from an old K's kit, plus a piece of bent wire. It's now ready for weathering.

 

 

An absolute gem! Thanks for sharing. 

 

Alan

[Annie]

What a superb model locomotive.  In no way does it betray its origins.  The first photo with its sepia toning is beautifully posed.

[chuffinghell]

Even though I’ve got more than enough projects on the go at the moment I’m tempted to attempt a pug bash myself having seen what’s achievable

 

Chris

[Lu4472ke]

Neilson2a-1.jpg

 

Neilson-1.jpg

 

Neilson2b-1.jpg

 

I pulled the wheels off and put them back on again. There's now far less wobble. I made up the toolboxes that go under the footplate from plastikard and fitted the brake gear. The brake handle is made from an old plastic handrail knob, from an old K's kit, plus a piece of bent wire. It's now ready for weathering.

 

Looks great! 

 

What did you use to make the buffers?

 

And what coupling system have you got installed?

[chuffinghell]

Neilson2a-1.jpg

 

Neilson-1.jpg

 

Neilson2b-1.jpg

 

I pulled the wheels off and put them back on again. There's now far less wobble. I made up the toolboxes that go under the footplate from plastikard and fitted the brake gear. The brake handle is made from an old plastic handrail knob, from an old K's kit, plus a piece of bent wire. It's now ready for weathering.

 

 

looks superb

[Ruston]

Looks great! 

 

What did you use to make the buffers?

 

And what coupling system have you got installed?

The buffers are profile-milled brass, layered and soldered together to the required thickness. The couplings are Dinghams.

[Killian keane]

Plonked a very rough chassis under the fletcher jennings lookalike this evening, wheelbase needs shortening

[Ruston]

Plonked a very rough chassis under the fletcher jennings lookalike this evening, wheelbase needs shortening

IMG_20181221_192423.jpg

That looks like something that could have escaped from Boulton's Siding.

[Gibbo675]

LNER Y6 Scratch Build

 

I noted recently a post regarding a potential Pugbash in this very thread, linked below.

 

http://www.rmweb.co....ysteins/page-22

 

I had almost forgotten that I had the drawings for this locomotive and so I finally thought about actually getting around to making one. I did a quick search for wheel bases and diameters and the nearest chassis is the Dapol/Hornby L&Y Pug. The Y6 is an inside cylinder design but removal of the cylinders and connecting rod shouldn't cause too much of a problem although they are not seen in any case.

 

https://www.lner.info/locos/Y/y6.php

 

https://www.lner.info/locos/J/j70.php

 

I checked the drawing against the leading dimensions given in the above links and had a good look at both photographs and a pug that I have had for about thirty years now and then set about making the box structure for the skirts, and the body sides and ends. The body is made from .030" plasticard which has been scribed with a razor saw to represent planking, the framing will be represented with either micro strip if have any of suitable size or cut my own from .020" plasticard.

 

 

My Pug of thirty years will not be chopped up for this exercise for I have ordered another from good old eBay that will be used to power my latest contraption.

 

Gibbo.

 

[Gibbo675]

Hi Folks,

 

This is the latest the Y6 project.

 

Rectangular stiffening gussets have been fitted to the ends of the superstructure above the cab doors for there is only a 2mm ligament holding that part of the construction together. This feature also holds the whole square.

 

I have applied all of the beadings and access door framing to the sides and the ends. I have to say this was a tricky job because if the lines of the beads are not quite correct they look terrible.

 

The steps have also been made, this involved cutting four holes into the skirts under the doorways, and boxing in the behind with steps cut from .020" plasticard. To form the box for the steps I made two 1.5mm X 10mm strips from .030" plasticard fitted to the inside of either side of the holes in the skirts which was then bridged over with a 8mm X 10mm piece to form the backing plate. The steps which are .020" were then glued into position with .020" microstrip sides fitted to the outer edges of the skirts.

 

The roof was formed from two pieces of .010" plasticard which were then glued together and held tightly around a glass jar that had a radius slightly less than I required. after about ten minutes I released the grip upon the laminated pieces and the roof held its form almost exactly to the arc of the ends of the superstructure of the locomotive.

 

Roof and tarragon jar.

 

General view so far.

 

Gibbo.

[Gibbo675]

Hi Folks,

 

After posting the latest photos of the Y6 last evening I had a terrible realisation that the body was too tall. I had a quick measure, and sure enough it was too tall by 2.5mm, which works out at a planks breadth. All I can think is that when I was marking out the sides I cut the cab doors to the line of the top edge of the sides hence the plank width of 2.5mm too tall and then replcated the error in the ends.

 

I have now rectified my cock up by cutting out the second plank down from the top completely, the one on the body sides and end, not me, should you be wondering, and then glued it all back together again. The planking hides the joint perfectly !!!

 

I have attached the roof along with the chimney and safety valve piping. The chimney is from Plastruct tube filled down to 4mm O/D and the safety valve pipe is a 12swg copper welding rod fitted into a 6mm Plastruct tube filled with epoxy resin. I used epoxy for it self levels as it adheres, thus less filling later.

 

Just for sport here are two spot the difference photographs;

 

 

 

Gibbo.

[Gibbo675]

Hi Folks,

 

The Dapol Pug arrived this lunchtime and I have been busy this afternoon disassembling it so that I may adapt its chassis for the Y6 project.

 

To remove the main part of the body I had to detach the wires that fed current to the motor, once this was done I cut the ends of the chassis off close to the retaining screw holes and then tried it into the Y6 body after I had cut an aperture in it to receive the chassis. The aperture had to be widened to allow the motor to pass through, I could then see that the remains of the slide bar support and the tops of the sand boxes would provide location  with the Y6 body shell. I elected to place the motor at the fire box end of the body shell so that both members of the loco crew could stand in the way of the motor. The tops of the sand boxes were slightly proud of the top of the chassis and were pared down so that the body would sit plain to the chassis and level to the track.

 

Most conveniently the chassis needed 5mm of packing to bring it to the correct height. this was achieved by gluing two 5mm strips of plasticard to either side of the aperture, one .080"thick and the other .040" thick. Another pair of synergistic occurrences was that one of the original screw holes lined up with the centre of the underside of the foot plating at the chimney end and also that it required precisely 8mm of packing. The 8mm packing was made up from four pieces of .080" plasticard 7mm X 9mm. Once the chassis was centred within the aperture a hole was drilled through the chassis screw hole and into the 8mm thick packing block, one of the original Pug body securing screws was utilised to hold the chassis in place.

 

At the other end to make sue that the body and chassis did not pivot about the securing screw I cut some .080" strips of plasticard 3mm X 9mm with 45* angles upon one end. With the chassis correctly placed I glued these strips so that the angled ends located upon the sloped side of the sand boxes. when the glue had cured the screw may be undone the chassis slid along by 4mm and the whole disassembles.

 

The other slight modification was to drill a hole in the end of the chassis to retain the keep plate over the axles, again I used one of the original Pug body securing screws. This action was required as the clip had been cut off when shortening the chassis.

 

 

Gibbo.

[Gibbo675]

Hi Folks,

 

The Y6 is coming on well, not only does the chassis fit it is now adorned with a boiler. By way of practicality the firebox doe look rather like an electric motor. Only slight modification to the lugs that located the sand boxes were required to make it all fit once the boiler was fitted for it would not scoop in as it had done.

 

The reverser wheel is a Cambrian hand brake wheel and the only detail part of the Pug is the handbrake standard at the smoke box end. I shall not fit one at the fire box end for I intend that the loco crew will hide that missing detail and the rather square firebox.

 

The tubes in the doorway at the smoke box end are the water tank fillers. The later J70 locomotives had a filler behind the sliding windows in the body sides rather than in the doorways which I think is a strange place to site them.

 

Only the cow catcher to make and fit and then it will be ready for painting.

 

 

Gibbo.

[Gibbo675]

Hi Folks,

 

I'd like to see a Pugbash of this;

 

https://mikemorant.smugmug.com/Trains-Railways-British-Isles/Miscellaneous/Industrial-railways-North/i-tBtN6kz/A

 

One for Ruston perhaps ?

 

Gibbo.

[Sandhole]

Hi Folks,

 

I'd like to see a Pugbash of this;

 

https://mikemorant.smugmug.com/Trains-Railways-British-Isles/Miscellaneous/Industrial-railways-North/i-tBtN6kz/A

 

One for Ruston perhaps ?

 

Gibbo.

I have asked Chris at High Level Models if he would do a kit.

I'd have one!!

                         Chris.

[Gibbo675]

Hi Folks,

 

Cow catchers have now made an appearance upon the Y6, quite a fiddly job but they worked out well.

 

I decided to fill in the space under the buffer beam to the depth of the skirts with plasticard and then attach a .030" X .030" strip to the front face of this piece directly under the buffer beam. Across the bottom edge I glued a .030" X 5mm strip at a right angle to the infill piece, this along with the smaller strip formed the framework to which the bars of the cow catcher were to be glued.

 

The bars of the cow catcher are made from .020" X .020" micro-strip 10mm long and there are 19 in each assembly, if I have counted correctly the real ones had 24 but not to worry to much about such matters. The bars were cut so that they were just slightly long so that once the glue had cured they could be trimmed and filled back to the supporting framework.

 

I may well have made a bad decision not to have painted the areas behind the bars before fitting them into place.

 

 

Gibbo.

[Gibbo675]

Hi Folks,

 

Buffers and shackles have now been fitted. The buffers are cut from some Hornby 75 ton crane bogies that have just arrived that are for four future scratch builds with some filled down Plastruct tube collars fitted at the base to make them look like GER buffers. The shackles are some that I found in the bits box, unfortunately I don't have any vacuum pipes so I might make some from copper wire.

 

Painting is next although I'm not sure what shade of brown was used, does anyone know ?

 

 

Gibbo.

[Annie]

 

 

Painting is next although I'm not sure what shade of brown was used, does anyone know ?

It varied quite a bit depending on how clean or dirty the tram engine was or when it was last painted and by whom.  Generally a mid brown shade is fine.  I don't think any of my GER tram engines are exactly the same colour as one another and the weathered ones certainly aren't.