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It looks to me as if it's the plastic part of the motor casing that's in line with where the pickups are, not the metal casing (hence no shorting).

 

The plastic part of the casing also appears to have a 'step' in it - is there a slot in there that the pickups go into as well? If the pickups only contact the terminals on the bottom of the motor, there's no need for them to be that long...

 

I wouldn't recommend glueing the motor to the chassis - quite apart from the risk of getting glue where you don't want it, it could make removal of the motor difficult if it needs to be replaced (as it doesn't appear to have removable brushes - a backwards step IMO - the motor will need to be replaced at some point!)

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As others have already said, the motor terminals do indeed make contact with the copper pick-up strips. There's no (electrical) need for the motor casing to make contact with the metal casting that it sits on. The big spring clip keeps everything in place but it does get in the way.

 

My solution was to use soft wire to bind the motor in place, looping under the casting and over the bearing housing on the motor -  see pic. Not elegant but it seems to work. A spot of superglue helps to dissuade it from slipping off.

 

 

PS this fix needs a shallow cut in the bottom of the metal casting to prevent the soft wire sitting proud - which would prevent the casting from seating properly

 

Alan

 

IMG_1541.jpg.04b38d32637af326a9ca8cd8baec27b1.jpg

 

Edited by Tullygrainey
forgot to mention this
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4 hours ago, Tullygrainey said:

As others have already said, the motor terminals do indeed make contact with the copper pick-up strips. There's no (electrical) need for the motor casing to make contact with the metal casting that it sits on. The big spring clip keeps everything in place but it does get in the way.

 

My solution was to use soft wire to bind the motor in place, looping under the casting and over the bearing housing on the motor -  see pic. Not elegant but it seems to work. A spot of superglue helps to dissuade it from slipping off.

 

 

PS this fix needs a shallow cut in the bottom of the metal casting to prevent the soft wire sitting proud - which would prevent the casting from seating properly

 

Alan

 

 

IMG_1541.jpg

 

Thanks for showing this - it is what I want to do. But where is that suppressor thing on your motor?

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1 hour ago, SteveyDee68 said:

 

Thanks for showing this - it is what I want to do. But where is that suppressor thing on your motor?

Er, quietly binned I'm afraid! I know it ought to be there but its absence doesn't affect performance or stop the motor working. As I understand it, its only role is to suppress interference on TVs but that's more of a problem with old cathode ray tube TVs than the flat screen stuff most of us own now (Anyone?) 

 

In truth, I've only been playing around with that old chassis to see what works and what doesn't. It's really worn out. 

 

Good luck with your project Stevey. Keep us posted on how it turns out.

 

Alan

 

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The issue with interference isn't so much with the method of displaying the picture (CRT vs LCD) as with the frequency of transmission - certainly in the days of non-digital TV, a sparking motor could emit radio waves on the same frequency as TV and radio channels, causing interference, hence the suppressors.

 

I'm not sure what effect an unsuppressed motor has on digital TV channels, although I found Freeview more susceptible to interference in general than the old analogue channels were (usually at crucial moments, like when Poirot said "The murderer is....."). Of course, some of the old radio frequencies are still in use, and the old TV frequencies are now used for mobile phone transmissions, so there could still be interference issues with not using a suppressor.

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On 23/06/2019 at 19:02, SteveyDee68 said:

Thanks for all the information - now I know what to look for, I can see what everyone means! What is great about this hobby is that there is always something new to learn.

 

Steve

 

I'm a bit late Stevey but I thought you might like to see an alternative method of motorising the Playcraft NB shunter. It uses the old Dapol/Hornby Terrier chassis which has the advantage of sweeter running and the right sized wheels in almost the right places.

 

 

Hopefully with the new Terriers coming on stream you should be able to pick up the older models for a song on the ubiquitous online auction site.

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Does this count as a pug bash, it's just a tender but does have part of the roof of an Airfix pug ?

This is a shunting tender inspired by a photograph and that’s code for not an exact model, a representation of a little shunting tender made by the South Australian railways.

Parts spotters will have noticed that the tender is a cut-down slopping switcher tender from Coachman. The chassis is the bogie from an Airfix City of Touro and also the cab sides and back.

P1010196a.JPG.7f3c86856856e15c214c0c80987493f5.JPG

 

Compare with this photo

https://www.flickr.com/photos/54488628@N08/10446852154

 

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23 hours ago, Neil said:

Hopefully with the new Terriers coming on stream you should be able to pick up the older models for a song on the ubiquitous online auction site.

 

Thanks Neil for the link - that's a bobby dazzler of a chassis replacement!

 

Looking at the Bay of Fleas, it would seem everyone is trying to flog their old Dapol and Hornby Terriers as you suggest, but at prices only a crisp twenty off the price of a new Hornby Terrier! Would seem to be trying to recoup most of the cost of upgrading to the newer model! Will have to watch for the bargain prices!

 

Steve

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You and me both Stevey. I flogged the one featured on ebay some time ago but last year I picked up another Playcraft shunter for a couple of quid in my local junk shop so I'll be needing a terrier too.

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33 minutes ago, RedGemAlchemist said:

Is it just me or is Bulldog apparently a quite common name for Pugbashes? Not just my own No.1, but I've seen several others around the internet with that name.

 

I think it’s just a common name for locomotives for locos in general, the GWR has an entire class named Bulldog, so yea.

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On 30/06/2019 at 06:48, Devo63 said:

I'd call it "PUGWASH" after one the early cartoons (original b&w series) I used to watch growing up.

 

Dave R.

 

Thanks Dave R - great name for a dock shunter!

Edited by SteveyDee68
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