Sophia NSE Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 Hmmmmm the chassis runs, just not with the body on. Where have I gone wrong? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Din Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 29 minutes ago, Sophia NSE said: Hmmmmm the chassis runs, just not with the body on. Where have I gone wrong? Is the worm tight against the body? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 Which is the worm? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Din Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 1 minute ago, Sophia NSE said: Which is the worm? The Archimedes screw bit? Not sure what your chassis is, but in previous bodges I did long ago it was usually because the body was rubbing against it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 It's the Hornby scalded cat 0-4-0 chassis. I know nothing about motors Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RedGemAlchemist Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 13 minutes ago, Din said: The Archimedes screw bit? Not sure what your chassis is, but in previous bodges I did long ago it was usually because the body was rubbing against it. I'd say it likely is this as well. I've also had this issue more than once. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted February 5, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2020 (edited) If it’s one of these chassis’s it could be the part circulated (the rotor) that is hitting the body? I could be wrong though Chris Edited February 5, 2020 by chuffinghell Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted February 5, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2020 29 minutes ago, Sophia NSE said: Which is the worm? The part circled in blue is the worm gear Chris 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 Nothing appears to be fouling as far as I can see (excuse the nails!) The motor buzzes and smokes a little with the body on, but no movement Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted February 5, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2020 Stupid question but does the chassis run okay without the body? it might be worth removing the chassis and look inside the body to see if there is evidence of marking suggesting something is touching If it’s not mechanical it could be electrical, ie maybe the body is allowing wires to touch each other? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 2 minutes ago, chuffinghell said: Stupid question but does the chassis run okay without the body? it might be worth removing the chassis and look inside the body to see if there is evidence of marking suggesting something is touching If it’s not mechanical it could be electrical, ie maybe the body is allowing wires to touch each other? It moves though it could probably do with a good running in 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted February 5, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2020 (edited) as photographed the rotor looks flush with the top of the motor body, however if you turn the rotor by 90 degrees by hand you’ll see that it sits much higher in other words the size marked in yellow is greater than the size marked in green so it sits higher when in the position shown in the second photo Hope I’ve not confused matters? Edited February 5, 2020 by chuffinghell Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TangoOscarMike Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 The connecting and coupling rods look a bit loose - the pins holding them in are half-way out. I have an older one of these chassis which no longer works with a body on top because of this - the coupling rods bind against the (frame part of the outside edge of the) body. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 A little bit of the body was fouling the very end of the worm so a little carving and a washer added between the chassis and body have helped. I going to do the same to the rear of the chassis to give it an even lift. Might get a circle of track so I can run in the motor too. Thanks for all the suggestions and assistance (I'm such a noob!) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TangoOscarMike Posted February 5, 2020 Share Posted February 5, 2020 10 minutes ago, Sophia NSE said: (I'm such a noob!) Everyone on the planet is either: A noob at something, OR No longer attempting new things. 2 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chuffinghell Posted February 5, 2020 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 5, 2020 12 minutes ago, Sophia NSE said: A little bit of the body was fouling the very end of the worm so a little carving and a washer added between the chassis and body have helped. I going to do the same to the rear of the chassis to give it an even lift. Might get a circle of track so I can run in the motor too. Thanks for all the suggestions and assistance (I'm such a noob!) Glad you’ve got it sorted 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tullygrainey Posted February 6, 2020 Share Posted February 6, 2020 Just a thought. There is a fair bit of flex in these Hornby chassis and sometimes screwing the body on too tight can cause them to distort, which might make the gears bind. Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cunningham Loco & Machine Works Posted February 6, 2020 Share Posted February 6, 2020 Here's a jintybodge W.I.P., incorporating (so far) a Margate-era Hornby jinty, the smokebox front of one of these, the upper portion of a Shay cab, and some plastikard. (The bunker snapped off twice, hence the cab doors to provide some structural integrity). Yes, I suppose you could place it in the steampunk genre, but I prefer to call it an "alternate" locomotive. 8 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sophia NSE Posted February 8, 2020 Share Posted February 8, 2020 Time for a update on WKR no.1. The M4 nuts and bolts may be overkill but body and chassis will not be parted easily. A little more filling here and there and it'll be time to start thinking about painting. 13 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Edwardian Posted February 9, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted February 9, 2020 There is still much to do, both below and above the valance. Progress has been slowed by lack of modelling time. I also went back a stage, deciding to remove the blanking skirts and model the underside of the boiler. 26 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post TurboSnail Posted February 10, 2020 Popular Post Share Posted February 10, 2020 (edited) Work in progress, though not sure I can call it a pugbash given there's not much pug left! Cardboard footplate, plastic tube boiler, plastic sheet smokebox and wingplate, plastic tube for the cylinders, shortened 3D printed tender left over from another project, and a new Chinese motor, 60:1 gears and flywheel in the chassis. Edited February 10, 2020 by TurboSnail More info 21 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TangoOscarMike Posted February 11, 2020 Share Posted February 11, 2020 On 10/02/2020 at 10:00, TurboSnail said: Work in progress, though not sure I can call it a pugbash given there's not much pug left! Cardboard footplate, plastic tube boiler, plastic sheet smokebox and wingplate, plastic tube for the cylinders, shortened 3D printed tender left over from another project, and a new Chinese motor, 60:1 gears and flywheel in the chassis. Hi Tom, that's nice! I've made a rod for my own back with my decision to make tender engine bodies for the unmodified Holden 0-4-0 chassis, with it's hugeous motor and cradle. Nevertheless, I'd be grateful for a picture of your chassis modifications, if that's not too much to ask. Cheers Tom Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted February 12, 2020 Share Posted February 12, 2020 9 hours ago, TangoOscarMike said: Nevertheless, I'd be grateful for a picture of your chassis modifications, if that's not too much to ask. Of course! I'm currently also working on an even smaller/cheaper version, as the gears on this one were expensive and difficult to fit the odd-sized Hornby axle. I'll post details of that modification here when I've finished it, but for now... Testing on fixed DC voltages: 11 1 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RJS1977 Posted February 12, 2020 Share Posted February 12, 2020 I think when you have sorted out the cheaper/easier version, that would be something a lot of people could be interested in, irrespective of whether they intend to make any other modifications or not! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HonestTom Posted February 12, 2020 Share Posted February 12, 2020 1 hour ago, RJS1977 said: I think when you have sorted out the cheaper/easier version, that would be something a lot of people could be interested in, irrespective of whether they intend to make any other modifications or not! Seconded. I'm currently playing with some Gn15 locos using the Hornby chassis, but the size of the motor and the tendency to take off like a greyhound don't make life easy. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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