Little Muddle

[KNP]

The bolster wagon is very light so I’ve had a go at a ‘heavy’ load using balsawood with lead hidden inside.
 

Not happy with the colour at the moment, looks wrong so I will leave to dry before having another go

 

 

The lead was supplied by Mr Teague (Churminster & Stowe Magna fame) though I’m not sure he actually knew he had as it was in the tender of Kneller Hall when that was delivered..so waste not etc etc.

 

Edited March 25 by KNP

[The Johnster]

11 hours ago, MrWolf said:

It's getting difficult. Waif and stray rusty bicycles are like wagon kits. You HAVE to have a stash. You just daren't count them. A small selection, from back to front: 1985 MBK, 1940 New Hudson, 1949 Rudge, 1952 Raleigh.

The difference is, I can bribe 'er indoors with old bicycles.

An 'er indoors' you can bribe with an old bicycle?  Now that's a keeper...

[The Johnster]

12 minutes ago, KNP said:

The bolster wagon is very light so I’ve had a go at a ‘heavy’ load using balsawood with lead hidden inside.
 

Not happy with the colour at the moment, looks wrong so I will leave to dry before having another go

 

 

The lead was supplied by Mr Teague (Churminster & Stowe Magna fame) though I’m both sure he actually knew he had as it was in the tender of Kneller Hall when that was delivered..so waste not etc etc.

 

I'm having to deal with a similar problem on my latest Parky kit, a BR 1/019 dropside steel medfit.  I don't like permanently loading my wagons but this one may have to carry something heavy unless I can get a set of wheels made of dark matter from somewhere...  I'd be more than happy with the colour of your timber baulks, which is why you are a better modeller than me.  Perhaps they are to replace the harbour wall strakes, or the old rotten ones being taken away...

[MrWolf]

50 minutes ago, The Johnster said:

I'm having to deal with a similar problem on my latest Parky kit, a BR 1/019 dropside steel medfit.  I don't like permanently loading my wagons but this one may have to carry something heavy unless I can get a set of wheels made of dark matter from somewhere...  I'd be more than happy with the colour of your timber baulks, which is why you are a better modeller than me.  Perhaps they are to replace the harbour wall strakes, or the old rotten ones being taken away...

Just typing "where can I buy depleted uranium?" into google gets you into all kinds of trouble. If you can catch a jobbing builder, they can often supply enough old lead flashing to last a lifetime and is will cut neatly with tinsips.

[MrWolf]

58 minutes ago, The Johnster said:

An 'er indoors' you can bribe with an old bicycle?  Now that's a keeper...

Thanks, she would be genuinely flattered and I wasn't kidding either.

1959 Raleigh Sports

[The Johnster]

25 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

Just typing "where can I buy depleted uranium?" into google gets you into all kinds of trouble. If you can catch a jobbing builder, they can often supply enough old lead flashing to last a lifetime and is will cut neatly with tinsips.

Mate, I live on the mean inner city streets; I can get depleted uranium on any corner...

[MrWolf]

4 minutes ago, The Johnster said:

Mate, I live on the mean inner city streets; I can get depleted uranium on any corner...

Probably from Russian supplied bullets fired by terrorists?

Nicking lead off the church roof shouldn't be a problem either. (along with robbing the shed they store the food parcels and donated clothes in)

[KNP]

Just messing about with the iPhone whilst playing trains!!!

 

 

 

Best move I made was to change the controller and the way the points are operated.

Working a dream at the moment!

 

[MrWolf]

Back on topic: Wow.

Can't beat a Dean Goods IMO.

What were the alterations that you made to control and point operation? Apologies if I missed it way back in the thread.

[Mick Bonwick]

3 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

Back on topic: Wow.

Can't beat a Dean Goods IMO.

What were the alterations that you made to control and point operation? Apologies if I missed it way back in the thread.

 

It's not that far back. Won't take you long to find it.

[KNP]

22 minutes ago, MrWolf said:

Back on topic: Wow.

Can't beat a Dean Goods IMO.

What were the alterations that you made to control and point operation? Apologies if I missed it way back in the thread.

This

 

and this

 

 

Conventional centre bias switch with cdu 

 

 

[Limpley Stoker]

Never mind the stolen lead and illicit uranium- somebody has nicked the wonky engine shed door!

[KNP]

18 minutes ago, Limpley Stoker said:

Never mind the stolen lead and illicit uranium- somebody has nicked the wonky engine shed door!

Nope.

It's still leaning against the shed wall....just end on.

[MrWolf]

3 hours ago, KNP said:

This

 

and this

 

 

Conventional centre bias switch with cdu 

 

 

Your points operating system makes perfect sense, I've worked on that setup for other applications, simple and reliable.

[KNP]

Small Prairie 4589 out for a jolly jaunt....

 

 

[KNP]

A barn,

a run down barn

a barn that needs some TLC...….

 

[aardvark]

42 minutes ago, KNP said:

A barn,

a run down barn

a barn that needs some TLC...….

 

 

Light and airy, close to all local amenities in an up-and-coming area.

[Mick Bonwick]

1 hour ago, KNP said:

a barn that needs some TLC...….

 

 

Don't you dare! It's perfect just the way it is. The only attention it needs is from your camera.

[Tony Teague]

20 hours ago, KNP said:

The lead was supplied by Mr Teague (Churminster & Stowe Magna fame) though I’m not sure he actually knew he had as it was in the tender of Kneller Hall when that was delivered..so waste not etc etc.

 

 

So that's where it went!

The hours I have spent looking for it....

...actually, I have a good supply; my builder being an honest chap, when he finished building an extension for me, offered me what was left of the roll of lead that he had bought for the job - and which, of course, I had paid for.

I am furiously building wagons in a vain attempt to use it up!

 

Tony

 

 

 

[KNP]

Tried another load on the bogie bolster wagon.

Using a length of willow from an old weathered piece of screening cut it to length with a fine saw, quick sand to remove odds and ends of bark (but not to much as I don’t want it smooth).

Then painted with Carr’s sleeper finish but dabbed off before it could soak in to far.

I think this looks better.

Ordered some liquid lead for the underside, not used it before....

 

 

Edited March 25 by KNP

[37Oban]

3 hours ago, KNP said:

Tried another load on the bogie bolster wagon.

Using a length of willow from an old weathered piece of screening cut it to length with a fine saw, quick sand to remove odds and ends of bark (but not to much as I don’t want it smooth).

Then painted with Carr’s sleeper finish but dabbed off before it could soak in to far.

I think this looks better.

Ordered some liquid lead for the underside, not used it before....

 

 

Hi,

rather than use liquid lead I use lead strip used to weigh down plants in aquariums.  It can be easily cut into pieces that are easy to hide in the nooks and crannies of the under-frame and glued with superglue or epoxy.

 

Roja

 

[Simond]

In case you’re not aware, do not mix lead with PVA.  It causes a slow, but inexorable swelling which will burst anything that contains it.  Many of the 7mm fraternity discovered this to our cost as tank wagons and loco boilers burst asunder.  I was relatively lucky, but had to do some serious remedial work on a couple of models, which, happily, came out of it ok.

 

you can mix liquid lead, lead shot, whatever, with solder or epoxy.  It works very well with casting resin, and you can make custom weights for locos or rolling stock in any container or mould you’d use for resin casting.

 

i still have much of the litre of lead shot I purchased from our local gun shop (a litre weighs around 11 kgs, so I guess that’s not surprising) some 20 years back, but I tend to use lead flashing.  A small roll Is about 3mm thick, and is not hyper expensive, it’s easy to cut with scissors, and is easy to form to suit the application.

 

hth

Simon

[The Johnster]

9 hours ago, KNP said:

Tried another load on the bogie bolster wagon.

Using a length of willow from an old weathered piece of screening cut it to length with a fine saw, quick sand to remove odds and ends of bark (but not to much as I don’t want it smooth).

Then painted with Carr’s sleeper finish but dabbed off before it could soak in to far.

I think this looks better.

Ordered some liquid lead for the underside, not used it before....

 

 

It’s basically lead shot, about .5mm diameter.  I’ve used it with dilute PVA but not in confined areas: if you give it somewhere to expand you should be fine.  For your Macaw, I’d suggest a coating underneath of diluted PVA with washing up liquid, like ballasting, with the Liquid Lead on top (since the wagon is upside down; you are really putting the LL underneath the PVA. More water until you’ve flooded the area beneath the wagon, LL to the brim, and leave it upside somewhere warm (radiator, sunny windowsill, airing cupboard) until the water evaporates.  If you ever need to remove it, you can dig it out with an old screwdriver. 

[Simond]

Well, you might well be fine if it has space to expand, and I have a couple of 7mm wagons weighted as you suggest which have survived so far, but bitter experience suggests using evo stik, uhu, blu tak, epoxy or resin.  
 

I’ll  not risk using PVA & lead together again.

 

atb

Simon

[KNP]

Thanks chaps for the advice on Liquid Lead.

What is the time span for this expansion?

I was planning to use UHU with a coat of PVA over the top to seal.

 

Might revert back to the normal lead flashing as I have metres of the stuff left over from some building work.

 

It looked such a good idea (at the time!) as there is limited space under the wagon.