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Little Muddle


KNP
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12 minutes ago, Mick Bonwick said:

 

I'm intrigued. How do you know that?

I always look at the number count on the Layout Topics page, and add 1.

There are 25 posts per page.

So it was showing 7498, I then add 1 = 7499, so I knew the next post would be 7500, the last of that page.

 

I hope this helps Mick.

 

 

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5 hours ago, Andrew P said:

I always look at the number count on the Layout Topics page, and add 1.

There are 25 posts per page.

So it was showing 7498, I then add 1 = 7499, so I knew the next post would be 7500, the last of that page.

 

I hope this helps Mick.

 

 

The other (longer) way is to count the number of posts on the page itself.

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The motive fleet has grown again....

Bachmann 7802 Bradley Manor arrived today from flea bay for my Grandson (Bradley) to use.

It is in excellent condition for a second hand one and will be a smart modern addition the loco fleet after a bit of tweaking, shirt button to tender, glazing removed, lamp brackets added/replaced with brass, matt coat to dull down sheen.

 

IMG_2019.jpg.d7b1c7559c0fab32d6d4302ca740f13b.jpg

 

Though a split chassis I will be converting it to DCC using a Zimo MX600 chip that I have spare.

It is already in pieces and a plan is forming with the chip being mounted in the tender and the wires under the connecting hook, isolating the engine looks easy and I just need to work out if I need to use a jointing block so I can remove the tender or have it permanently coupled..

 

Rule 1 will apply if anyone asks

Edited by KNP
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1 hour ago, KNP said:

The motive fleet has grown again....

Bachmann 7802 Bradley Manor arrived today from flea bay for my Grandson (Bradley) to use.

It is in excellent condition for a second hand one and will be a smart modern addition the loco fleet after a bit of tweaking, shirt button to tender, glazing removed, lamp brackets added/replaced with brass, matt coat to dull down sheen.

 

IMG_2019.jpg.d7b1c7559c0fab32d6d4302ca740f13b.jpg

 

Though a split chassis I will be converting it to DCC using a Zimo MX600 chip that I have spare.

It is already in pieces and a plan is forming with the chip being mounted in the tender and the wires under the connecting hook, isolating the engine looks easy and I just need to work out if I need to use a jointing block so I can remove the tender or have it permanently coupled..

 

Rule 1 will apply if anyone asks

Kevin,

Can we please have a blow by blow sequence of pics and comments on this conversion?

I have couple of Manors (as well as 43xxs), that I would love to convert but everyone seems to think split chassis loco conversion belongs in the too difficult box?

 

Thanks in advance

Paul

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I used to own a Mainline Hinton Manor, which I worked up into BR lined green ferret and dartboard livery with OLE flashes; it may be of some encouragement to you that it was the best runner of all my Mainlines, and could be controlled down to a crawl.  It was also the quietest.  

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Now what have I let myself in for.

 

These are the bits and pieces after taking apart.

 

Loco

IMG_2020.jpg.0468312d3148d4d758d896d6dec5e989.jpg

 

Tender with spare chip I propose to use

IMG_2021.jpg.09e0ce49cce1b4de7b3b273645004e9e.jpg

 

The chip fits nicely in the tender but I'm not keen on it because the four wires need to go to the motor and pick ups which in this case I will probably use the insulated chassis halves.

If I can get it in the loco body then I will and it appears if I take away some of the metal casting there might be enough room in the top half of the boiler.

Still under investigation.

A few things to think about so the postings might be a bit slow as I finish off other things that are underway....

Edited by KNP
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Kevin,

 

there are a number of options for plug-in tenders.  As you may know, I model in 7mm but the options are probably similar.  
 

I have used the connectors available from Hobbytronics, and JST Connectors, which you’ll find on eBay and other www sites.  If you use the Hobbytronics ones, you can assemble them so that they can only be plugged in the right way round.  JST connectors are already polarised.

 

hth

Simon

Edited by Simond
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2 hours ago, aardvark said:

 

Please sir, which issue? :read:

Don't know myself...but I expect its the October one that's about to hit the bookshelves.

Edited by KNP
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12 hours ago, Tallpaul69 said:

I have couple of Manors (as well as 43xxs), that I would love to convert but everyone seems to think split chassis loco conversion belongs in the too difficult box?

I have heard that but have little idea why. The only fundamental difference between DC and DCC wiring in a loco is that the feeds to the motor brushes must be completely insulated from the track pickups for DCC. Kevin shows a can motor, which by its nature offers exactly that. So orange and grey leads to the motor, red and black to each half of the chassis. 

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9 hours ago, Simond said:

Kevin,

 

there are a number of options for plug-in tenders.  As you may know, I model in 7mm but the options are probably similar.  
 

I have used the connectors available from Hobbytronics, and JST Connectors, which you’ll find on eBay and other www sites.  If you use the Hobbytronics ones, you can assemble them so that they can only be plugged in the right way round.  JST connectors are already polarised.

 

hth

Simon

 

Thanks Simon for this.

Just placed a small order with Hobbytronics for some connectors, cables, crimps, got a couple of types to see which works.

Never crossed my mind to use computer bits.

Should be here in a couple of days so will park the chassis for now but I might get on with cosmetic parts first

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1 hour ago, Oldddudders said:

I have heard that but have little idea why. The only fundamental difference between DC and DCC wiring in a loco is that the feeds to the motor brushes must be completely insulated from the track pickups for DCC. Kevin shows a can motor, which by its nature offers exactly that. So orange and grey leads to the motor, red and black to each half of the chassis. 

I do that by removing the motor tags that contact the two halves of the chassis and soldering the orange and grey wires direct to the motor terminals. I solder each of teh red and black wires to a small square of thin single-sided copperclad, which I then clamp between the frames (one facing each way, obviously!). You don't have to dismantle the chassis, just loosen everything up and separate the rear end slightly (ooer missus).

 

It's a while since I did my Manor but I think the decoder sits in the smokebox.

Edited by St Enodoc
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1 hour ago, KNP said:

Don't know myself...but I expect its the October one that's about to hit the bookshelves.

 

Yes, it's the feature that @AY Mod ran on the realistic thread and you came second behind @Giles who posted his traction engine photo.

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15 minutes ago, St Enodoc said:

I do that by removing the motor tags that contact the two halves of the chassis and soldering the orange and grey wires direct to the motor terminals. I solder each of teh red and black wires to a small square of thin single-sided copperclad, which I then clamp between the frames (one facing each way, obviously!). You don't have to dismantle the chassis, just loosen everything up and separate the rear end slightly (ooer missus).

 

It's a while since I did my Manor but I think the decoder sits in the smokebox.

A very neat solution, as we might expect given your engineering background!

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