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Jonathan's Modern Image Workbench (3D-printed class 323 EMU, class 156s, 3-car 144s, a 141, 4-car class 465s)


JDW
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As a long time lurker, and occasional poster, I thought I ought to create my own workbench thread.  Partly as an excuse to avoid doing any actual modelling.  Maybe also to provide a bit of impetus to a few very slow burning projects!  

 

As some of you might have seen elsewhere, one recent project on the go has been a totally pointless (for my layout) almost-full length Mk4 set in Intercity Swallow colours.  That's about half way there now, still a second batch of 4 coaches to do as well as finish the light clusters on the loco and DVT.  

 

Also on the go is some basic detailing work to a few class 59s and 66s, which have been sat in boxes for years, and prompted by the accidental purchase of 2 DynaDrive powered National power examples from Ebay, which needed some work, so I decided to try and bring them all up to the same (albeit low!) standard.  They'll never match a newer model, but they're decent and I like them.  Mainly, the work will involve fitting the Lima detailing parts and repainting the buffers and buffer beams to the correct colours - the yellow is too deep.  

 

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In the paintshop a 3-car class 144 is almost finished.  I built the centre car from a DC Kits resin kit to extend an existing resin model, and the whole set has been painted by a good friend.

 

This is how it started, a kit of sections sliced with a razor saw and mitre block...  

 

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...before being assembled in a dry run...

 

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...then glued together, filled and sanded to smooth the joints and undercoated before heading off to be painted.  As it happens, this week a parcel arrived from Realtrack models containing a Realtrack class 144 to be sliced up for the same conversion, this time to become a more up to date Northern purple centre car.  The body mods should be just as simple, the interior sits on a cast floor, which will make cutting harder but still quite simple.  The chassis is going to be a tough one, though, as there are so many wires, and the whole lot will need to be connected via the 8-pin connectors to the original unit.  One end is simple enough, but what was the cab end will need a new coupling adding and the wires soldering - in the right order! - so the whole things works as one.  

 

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In other news:

One day, I might get around to sorting these out, they sit at the back of the fiddle yard looking at me, I really should try and get some sides printed either as transfers or better as vinyls, I made these about 15 years ago not long after an article in ModelRail: 

 

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and I might get around to sending these off to be painted...

 

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whilst work progresses at a snail's pace on the layout and the diesel depot diorama that might occasionally pop us as a backdrop to pictures:

 

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The loft layout hasn't seen much work for a long time, and is going slightly backwards at the minute as I decided that I probably should paint the rails and sleepers, so lots of track has been lifted and is being relayed.  There's an eclectic mix of stock on show, as when I took the pics at various times I wasn't expecting to post them here - normally it is vaguely sectorisation or privatisation, but time periods are quite loosely defined!

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Finally, apologies for the poor pics, despite a hobby as a photographer, all these are basic camera or phone pics while I'm working or in the loft, no fancy photography here, sorry!

 

--EDIT for missing pic--

Edited by JDW
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A bit of progress today, the bodyshell is almost prepared, just needs a little more filing around the joint.  I'm hoping that I won't need to fill anything with filler, as trying to apply and smooth it around all those rivets will be impossible, if there are any gaps hopefully a bit of plastic dust/filings dissolved in Plastic Weld will do the trick.  

 

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Thanks David, not much has been done of late.  The body looks slightly too long (a couple of mils at each end) but I'm not going to try and shorten it, the windows and doors all line up, as do the roof joints, so I can live with it being a couple of mm out.  Incidentally, the 144 that is being used was a 'reject', so I haven't sliced up a working, full price model!

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A bit more progress on the 144 this weekend, I've taken the doors from behind one of the sawn off cabs, and opened out the window apertures at the right hand end of each side.  With some careful filing, the door sections, with door unlocked orange lights will fit nicely, and hopefully the rivet lines and gutter will disguise the join, as it will be almost impossible to fill and file/sand them without removing the rivet detail.  post-14759-0-65339700-1494085787_thumb.jpg

 

Also a bit more work on the slow burning Mk4 set project, the 91 has had a full valence built at the inner end, re-using parts of the one attached to the bogie, plus a few pieces of plasticard to make it deeper.  It might need trimming slightly to allow the coupling to swing a little further, but I'll wait til it's had a test run.  Also the window cills under the windscreen and inner end windscreen have been painted black, as have the edges of all the glazing, to get rid of most of the prism effect.  Just after I took the pic, though, I added the clear plastic covers over the lights, and managed to get a big black smudge on the lower nose where the plastic weld ran... Might have to start all over again if I can't remove it...

post-14759-0-13644700-1494086152_thumb.jpgpost-14759-0-80166600-1494086162_thumb.jpg

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Not much to report of late, but a few things progressing on the slow burner.  The Mk4 project is dragging on, doing the same thing on 8 coaches is a bit repetitive, but it's almost there, six out of 8 coaches done.  I got around to doing some work on the DVT too, replacing the coupling with a Keen Systems one to match the coaches, and fitting the valances to the chassis, beefed up with a bit of plasticard to get them at the right depth, and cut away at the inner end to allow the coupling to swing.  

 

The Dyna Drive class 59s mentioned at the beginning of the thread now both work properly, having been disassembled, cleaned, tweaked and put back together again.  The buffer beams have had the detailing parts fitted, and the lower sections attached to the body.  The opposite ends will have couplings made from wire and then the full buffer beams attached in the same way, as soon as I get some more suitable wire. Painting the buffer shanks and extra depth of grey on the buffer beams makes a huge difference I think.  The handrails have been left off for now to make renumbering easier.  The previous owner had made a poor job of removing some plastic around the exhaust silencer to allow space for the flywheel, so I've tidied that up and managed to disguise the worst of it.  

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I'm still trying to find the best way to couple my 155, it has been coupled with a class 150 drawbar since I (almost) finished it, but it was slightly too short and couldn't be pushed fully home on one car.  Not a huge problem, but something better is needed!  

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More interior painting has been done, it's one of those things that you don't really notice until you start doing it, and now I've done some DMUs, I feel the need to do all of them to match!  The EMT and CT units are the most recent - as with all my 153s, the 'ploughs have been fixed to the chassis too, and thinned at the ends to make them look less chunky.  The EMT one has had the chassis painted black, which seemes much more common than the blue of the Hornby model, and to my eye looks better.  Likewise, the Northern one has had the 'ploughs and chassis painted grey, and the 158 in the pics has been like that for a while, windowless awaiting transfers and varnishing.  Hopefully my email is near the top of Railtec's Inbox.  

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And of course, why finish one project when you can start another?  Prompted by the Realtrack model, another one of my 156s is getting a replacement underframe courtesy of my stock of Hurst kits - I've this one to do, and them one more kit left to do another unit when I find the enthusiasm!  Pics to follow, progress so far has been to remove the moulded "box" on the Hornby chassis, and infill with plasticard on the motorised chassis, and with the metal weight on the trailer car, which conveniently fits exactly in the space above the empty box.  

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Hi JDW

 

Just a thought with regard to coupling the 155 cars together.

 

You said in your post that you used the coupling bar from the 150. I was wondering if the coupling bars for either the Class 411 4CEP or the Class 350 might be better as they could be slight longer than the 150 bar but just long enough to allow the cars to go round bends and meet up on straight track as in your picture of the unit.

 

On the subject of your 91 and mk4 set, I tried attaching kadee #20 couplers to the coach chassis but couldn't get them to go round my bends properly without derailing even though the bends are nice sweeping bends so I am possibly thinking of trying to either use nem pockets mounted to the chassis as they would be on Bachmann wagons or something similar to a stiff bar coupling system or possibly end up buying 18 or 20 brand new mk4 bogies and bogie mount the kadees.

 

Any thoughts will be welcome.

 

Could be worth a try, I'll take a look.  Thanks for the suggestion.  I'd recommend trying the Keen systems close couplings, they need a bit of work to fit but it is simple to do, they are effective, and although I haven't run the full set yet, seem to work well around even tight curves.  I wouldn't even think of trying bogie mounted couplings as you'd still have the bogie mounted skirts under the coach ends to deal with, and getting rid of the tension locks for something less obtrusive or more realistic seems pointless if you still have the whole faring swinging around on every corner.  Plus by the time you've paid for enough Kadees, you'd probably spend the same on the Keen couplings and replacement resin skirts.

 

I think these pics have appeared in another thread already, but for ease/completeness, I'll pop them here too:

The replacement close coupling mechanism:

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and the resin skirt:

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Both installed together:

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Unmodified (bottom) and part-modified coaches for comparison:

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Coupled together, and with flexible gangways installed:

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I haven't done much of late, but trying to get on top of a few projects before I get forgetful and can't remember what goes where and what I'm doing with each of them.

 

First off, snowploughs:  What are better do we think, the Hornby ones or the Hurst ones?  I'd like to try and standardise across the fleets but not sure which way to go.  Hornby's is quite wide, the Hurst one very narrow.  Of course, none look as good as the Bachmann one, but I can't get hold of any so will have to make do!  Here's an example of both types on a 153 and 156, with the Bachmann one for comparison.

 

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While I've got them out, I've been painting some more 156 interiors - anyone know what colour seats the Strathclyde sets had when new?  And for the sets that won't get the Hurst detailing kits (I don't have enough, as well as ploughs, I've started to add BSI couplings (Hornby class 153 parts, I'll try and use these on all the DMUs where I can, if I can get hold of enough sets - better than the moulded blobs on Hornby 142s and Lima 156s, and hopefully suitable to replace the ones on Bachmann 158s too).  I'll pop up a few pics of the latest Hurst conversion next week, they're on my other camera which I don't have handy at the minute.  

 

And finally, anopther tedious job.  It always annoys me to see class 66s/67s without the deep buffer beam (I'm easily annoyed!) as its a key part of the face of the loco.  Even some very well detailed models on some exhibition layouts lack it, which spoils the effect I think - and it IS possible to fit ones and retain the tension lock drawbar.  OK, it isn't a perfect solution, but at least gives an impression of it being there, the outline, and when coupled to a train that's mostly whet you see:

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The Mk4 project is proceeding repetitively, the last few farings need spraying, as do all the interiors... 

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So, as mentioned a little way back, I've been working on another Hurst coversion on a Hornby 156.  This time, 156484 in Northern purple, to join original white 156425, as well as RRNW 156420 and Northern Spirit 156490, with another one to do.  Since the kits are no longer available, the older liveried units I have will likely keep their original underframe with a little end detailing, and 420 will likely swap back to an original chassis to give up its detailed chassis to a Central green liveried unit.  That way, at least there's be consistency across different eras.  Anyway...

 

The two Northern units, the white one serving as a guide to the purple one.  

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The 156 is quite simple to disassemble, I start with the roof, then windows and interior, which makes unclipping the chassis easier from inside.  This one had already had some work done, the interior painted and snowploughs fitted.  The seats are not correct, but the prospect of fitting higher seat backs to half a dozen or more 156s isn't one I relish, so it will stay as it is!  Life's too short sometimes.

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The centre of the chassis was cut out using a cutting disc - go carefully, it creates heat, but is much easier than trying to use a razor saw on the flimsy chassis.  On the Hornby version, the trailer car weight is a piece of metal that fits above the 'box', so this was re-used and glued in as the new floor, to save making an identical piece from plasticard.  Older Lima models have a metal weight inside the box, as does the Hornby power car.

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The chassis are both very flimsy at this point, so care is needed.  I considered using the metal weight as the floor section in the power car, but decide to use plasticard instead as the weight of the power bogie tends to flex the chassis, and having a solid centre section would put undue stress on the joint and around the inner end of the power bogie opening, whereas plasticard will flex with the remaining chassis.  

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Adding the kit itself is fairly straightforward, following the clear instructions - although I tend to just use the original model as a template, sat alongside the one I'm working on, which makes things quick, easy and consistent.

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I still can't decide whether to standardise on Hurst or Hornby ploughs (see post above) - each looks OK by itself but next to each other they look odd.  Again, I'll try and avoid it as much as possible, so that older era units are detailed with Hornby parts and newer liveries with Hurst kits, but still, alongside 153s they look noticeably different.

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After a coating of Halfords matt black, and since this is a Northern unit some Revell 77 grey on the solebars, its just about finished, with a few bits of black to touch in where the spray has missed in corners.  Seen here next to a newly arrived Central unit, as yet untested but second hand from Rails, DCC fitted, and with snowploughs and A1 Models inner gangway connections.  Bought for a good price, the unit will yield its chassis, to the next Hurst conversion, the bodyshell will be sold on fitted to the old Lima chassis, since the Hornby version is a better motor and DCC ready. 

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Nice to see someone else doing something with the Lima 156. I write this looking at a the underneath of a Lima 156 that I have just attacked. I tried without the hurst and armed with dodgy reference photos and plasticard I'm having a go at the underframe.

 

Mine is set to become 156482 in the new Northern franchise livery and I have bought two dummy cars separately and will use my own motor bogie (either scratchbuilt or bought).

 

I may have also made a bet with a friend at my model club that I could make the doors open with DCC.

Thought a 156 would be the best option because it's simply a linear motion?? Think I may loose but will have a go...

 

 

Yours looks great.

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Thanks, its a pity the Hurst kit isn't still available, it's not actually that complicated, just lots of bits so looks daunting.  Wouldn't like to try and do it from scratch though!

 

I do think you'll find the doors a challenge, the bodyside might need substantial thinning to prevent them being set too far back, and the floor inside will likely need trimming.  The glazing might get in your way too.  At least with two dummy chassis there's no motor bogie in the way.  

 

I did think about removing the S&C branding and changing it to a non-descript, standard unit rather than the same as everyone else's, but that would have probably ended up needing a lot more work (removing the numbers from the sides and front, as well as trying to find the right shade of purple for the swoosh... 

 

Feel free to pop a couple of pics here of yours as it progresses, would be interesting to see...

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Yes. Looking at the unit, I think the doors being set back will the biggest issue. I can just about mount a linear servo behind the body out of view and it will be powered by an arduino microcontroller hidden in the curvature of the roof. That will be powered by a cell battery because 8 servos at once may a bit much for the DCC system. I will use the 'door opening' output on a sound decoder that is meant for the 'door open' lights as a trigger for the servos. I've measured it all and it should all fit.

 

I theory it should all work but in practice...

 

My livery will be this new one only applied to a few so far.

 

https://flic.kr/p/XmzNXB

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Surely you don't need to operate 8 servos all at once - only the doors on one side would be opened at one time, so that's only 4 servos.  If there's space, could you link the two doors together so one servo opens both doors?  Obviously they slide in opposite directions so some kind of crank would be needed to reverse the movement for one door. That would mean only 2 servos, and probably no need for the battery... (although I will admit to knowing next to nothing about such things!)

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Yes. Of course, my mistake. only 4 doors ever would open at once. For that reason, I may cheat and only make the doors open on one side and physically turn the unit when I need to.

 

I did look at using a single rotary servo for both doors but I don't think it would sit below the window level.

Edited by cal.n
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Thanks, its a pity the Hurst kit isn't still available, it's not actually that complicated, just lots of bits so looks daunting.  Wouldn't like to try and do it from scratch though!

 

I do think you'll find the doors a challenge, the bodyside might need substantial thinning to prevent them being set too far back, and the floor inside will likely need trimming.  The glazing might get in your way too.  At least with two dummy chassis there's no motor bogie in the way.  

 

I did think about removing the S&C branding and changing it to a non-descript, standard unit rather than the same as everyone else's, but that would have probably ended up needing a lot more work (removing the numbers from the sides and front, as well as trying to find the right shade of purple for the swoosh... 

 

Feel free to pop a couple of pics here of yours as it progresses, would be interesting to see...

 

I built mine pretty much from scratch using the Hornby Class 153 underframe, and using the mouldings off of the Lima box. It takes a while to do, but the result is better than the hurst castings, which look ok, but they to me don't capture the look of some of the parts, it doesn't really matter if the model is moving alot, but itll suffice, but to me the scratch build option will always be better until something else comes along, which I doubt now the Realtrack 156 is out now.

 

NL

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 but to me the scratch build option will always be better until something else comes along, which I doubt now the Realtrack 156 is out now.

 

 

My efforts with plasticard and wire will never be able to match the Realtrack 156 and mine is only ever intended to be an attempt at doing the next best thing.

 

I even used photos from Charlie's 156 thread to help my scratchbuilding. (Sorry. Is that morally wrong?).

 

I also used the underframe of my Hornby 153 as a rough guide for dimensions ect.and IIRC, its available as a spare for under £10 so it may be worth buying 2 and salvaging what you can.

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I'm afraid I don't have the skill or more to the point the patience to scratch build the underframe!  

 

I don't think Charlie will mind too much that you used his pictures - so long as you buy some of his DMUs...

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My efforts with plasticard and wire will never be able to match the Realtrack 156 and mine is only ever intended to be an attempt at doing the next best thing.

 

I even used photos from Charlie's 156 thread to help my scratchbuilding. (Sorry. Is that morally wrong?).

 

I also used the underframe of my Hornby 153 as a rough guide for dimensions ect.and IIRC, its available as a spare for under £10 so it may be worth buying 2 and salvaging what you can.

 

Hi - Nothing wrong with using them as guide I find, but photos of the real thing go much longer way as well because at least youre going by that of which you have taken.

 

JDW - I understand .. scratch building isn't for everyone, as each person has their own skills, some people are happy to buy detail part manufacturers parts and apply them, it is a shame that Hurst havnt stocked their kit for a while, but as a one man operation it must be hard to keep up with the demand. even if its adding parts straight from the Hornby 153 underframe if you do at some point, you've started working towards making your model more your own

 

NL

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It's certainly a pity that the Hurst kit hasn't been available, but you're right, for a small one-man company, there are lots of things to take one person's time.  I might have been tempted to try scratchbuilding if it were one model, but doing the kits is repetitive enough (I have nine 156s altogether) without having to build the components first.  OK, I could do one and resin cast duplicates of them (I thought about doing that with the Hurst parts, crating extra resin ones) but I think I'll wait til I run out of other things to do first.  It's certainly true that I'm enjoying making them my own, as you say, rather than just running them.  I'm more into operation than painting, but with limited access to the layout (which seems to be going backwards not forwards!) I'm enjoying working on stock.  

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  • 3 weeks later...

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Here is my 156 at the moment, I would of put this picture up sooner, but my browser has been crashing and refused not to crash, but here it is. I've repainted it as it was a sorry state when I brought it back off of my friend, so the Hurst underframe was ripped right off and I started again using bits from the Hornby 153 underframe and scratch built parts as well, I just need to sort out the front and get some custom made Northern spirit transfers and vehicle numbers, Hope this picture helps

 

NL

 

It's certainly a pity that the Hurst kit hasn't been available, but you're right, for a small one-man company, there are lots of things to take one person's time.  I might have been tempted to try scratchbuilding if it were one model, but doing the kits is repetitive enough (I have nine 156s altogether) without having to build the components first.  OK, I could do one and resin cast duplicates of them (I thought about doing that with the Hurst parts, crating extra resin ones) but I think I'll wait til I run out of other things to do first.  It's certainly true that I'm enjoying making them my own, as you say, rather than just running them.  I'm more into operation than painting, but with limited access to the layout (which seems to be going backwards not forwards!) I'm enjoying working on stock.  

 

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That's looking quite good Nick, the underframe and the repaint - I've never seen a repaint into Northern Spirit colours, and the shades look quite good, better than Lima's.  The N isn't an easy shape to mask either, I cheated when I did 158909 and started with a Transpeninexpress unit, making sure the outline of the N was still visible under the undercoat before the red and silver went on, as a masking guide.  The opposite of the usual method of making sure you can't see the old livery!  Feel free to keep us updated as you progress.

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It's been a while since I posted anything here, and to be fair not a lot has been happening model-wise. However a recent bout of motivation has seen progress on the BRT wagons mentioned way back.

I ordered some tinlets of paint from Phoenix online, and made a start on the wagons, as well as modifying the livery on the solebars of Lima's 20131 and 20187.

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On the models, 131 had an all-grey solebar, and 187 all black. In reality, the walkway should be black, the sides light grey, which seemed an easy fix. However, Lima's shades are much darker and browner than the Phoenix paint shades, so I'll have to try and find a better match.

For some reason the model of 20187 also had white window frames, I repainted them with Phoenix BRT dark grey, which shows the difference. I'm thinking I'll find a darker grey for the wagon roofs, so at least the whole train will look a bit more cohesive. The Phoenix shade is probably closer but looks too pale, the light grey I'll live with on the wagons.

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The yellow ends are going to be a chore, I've experimented with one and this is how it looks after three coats. I might consider a rattle can but that would mean waiting til it's warm enough to spray outside.

I've also gotten around to finishing the 144, the centre car was painted for me by the person who painted the original unit, but still needed the chassis tweaking to sit level.

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In the same box as the BRT wagons were stored I had a Knightwing shunter kit, which I bought years ago and never built, so prompted by another tjread on here modified it to remove the continental style walkway behind the cab, and narrow it down to something more like UK loading gauge.

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I've not decided on a livery yet, but it looks quite good I think, and much more 'British' now.

And of course I had a cup of tea or two...

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Edited by JDW
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The ZDA wagons are almost painted, some yellow ends still need another coat, and the roofs need finishing - I found Humbrol 79 a close match for the Lima BRT dark grey so used that instead - it's too dark but at least consistant and will look better overall I think. The wagons aren't exactly accurate, but passable representations so it's a compromise Ican live with. Likewise the Lima BRT grey Mk1 is (AFAIK) fictitious, but will be part of the rake. I ought to have a go at the blue mess(?) coach seen in some of the prototype pics, I'll add it to my To Do list.

 

The wagons look rather empty though. Does anyone know what they actually carried? I'm assuming cable drums, cable and other related equipment - though what that may be I have no idea really!

 

post-14759-0-37148400-1548714447_thumb.jpg

 

post-14759-0-26918700-1548714508_thumb.jpg

 

post-14759-0-07581800-1548714478_thumb.jpg

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