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  • RMweb Gold

A new addition to the fleet is almost finished, just needing couplings and transfers to complete.   A 2 axle Cargowaggon from Jon Hall’s kit

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • RMweb Gold
Posted (edited)

While plans for the future of the layout are still rather up in the air, I need to get it presentable before next month.  After which I can have a good long look at what comes next.

 

Yesterday I was finally able to get the required modifications made to Brent's fiddleyard to enable me to fit Wheal Imogen into its new home.  With the layout in place I was then able to have a proper look as to the extent of the work that is required to a) get it presentable and b) improve for the future.

 

Starting with the repairs:

  • Top of the list is the rust issues, there is a lot of it all over the concrete infill area.  It has been mentioned that some types of filler have a high PH content which could be a cause, however looking at the slurry siding the rust spots do look like they are aligning with the copperclad sleepers so I think flux is the more likely cause.  Unfortunately if the rust returns I dont see any option other than starting from scratch.313AE113-F180-4520-B5DD-E14C5995813C.jpeg.51feea793bfe7600129ed04e7577f7bf.jpeg
  • Building damage: as can be seen in the photos, one vent is broken off the right hand building, a canopy off the main dries, and the covered loading area has broken off a leg (and separated from the dries).  All should be quick fixes (although the covered loading area has always been a pain to work on.
  • Other damage, several fence posts have been knocked, plus there is a large hole in the right hand side where I removed the signal.  I cant decide what I am going to do here between buying another Dapol signal, getting a non working signal in place or just grassing over the area and eventually adding the signal to the other board.  One way or another the hole needs to be filled asap.
  • Finally there are some wiring issues after I caught the control panel while moving the layout and ripped it off.  At least one switch was destroyed and who knows what wires were broken.
  • edit: I forgot the final key job, I have a lighting rig which needs installing (all the more so given the poor light in that area)

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There are some small improvements I would like to make in the future, which may or may not be tied in with the expansion.

  • First up none of the buildings are fitted with gutters / down pipes, or the associated spotlights etc you would expect to see.  A couple of evenings work adding details to the buildings prior to gluing back into position would be time well spent.
  • The grass areas are a little one dimensional, a couple more applications of different fibre lengths / colours would help bring it to life.  This is probably a post expansion task, as it would help blend it all together.  
  • The fiddleyard needs to be rebuilt with a thinner deck/ frame.  At present the with the layout in its new home there is no roof for the fiddleyard to move.  For its showing next month I will likely be stuck having to manually move stock from one line to the other.
  • Finally a complexity to the expansion has been discovered, in that I didnt actually build the layout to match the plan.  Instead it looks like what happened is that the yard and branch plans were separated and aligned independently.  This is going to make things a lot more difficult with the extension as it will not be a simple case of printing off the template that I have already prepared. The extension baseboard needs cutting down to size, once that is done I will do a test print and see how it looks (in particular whether playing with the radius of the curve between the yard entry point and the existing branch will sort it.    The alternative would be a redesign which removes the point connecting the yard with the branch (and shifts it off scene).  Instead the extension would add the other half of the runaround loop and the headshunt.  With the track between the slip and the entrance point running off scene (as would the branch).  It solves the design issues and also avoids needing a gradient between the point and the baseboard joint to resolve the issue with the branch being 10mm or so higher than the yard.

 

Other than that there has been a few movements stock wise, with a Rainbow Railways TUA ordered to add some variation to the slurry fleet (replacing a TTA hack that was almost finished but had too large a diameter tank).  The CDAs keep coming on and off the bench for more rework to try and get them running, although they are now pretty much at the point of doing a full chassis strip to fit Bill Bedford units.  I keep thinking about the Calvalex model, but the price to source 8 of them is the stumbling block (and the fact that £250 or so would also buy a lot of coach kits for Brent...)  So for the moment I keep trying to get my heavily modified Hornby ones to actually work (without success so far).

Edited by The Fatadder
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1 hour ago, The Fatadder said:

a large hole in the right hand side where I removed the signal.  I cant decide what I am going to do here between buying another Dapol signal, getting a non working signal in place or just grassing over the area

In the short term I think I'd go for a non-working signal or even just a signal post with no arm.

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  • RMweb Gold

Lots of work and not a lot to see for it sums up tonight, I have been trying to tackle the rust.

 

First up however was improving the lighting, as the layout is now located under Brent the lighting is terrible.  The solution is a 3 bar ‘daylight’ LED light removed from an old fish tank.  Only issue is that it is slightly shorter than the layout, so will need some modified brackets to hold in place.  Naturally I don’t want to do this until I am finished, so for now it gets balanced across the arch / backscene.  At least this means I can see what I’m doing.  I will look at adding some brackets to the underside of Brent to get a more sturdy location until I’m ready for it to be properly installed.

 

moving onto the rust, it’s a tricky job to remove with a wire brush, file, fibreglass brush before finally dressing with emery paper.  Naturally I ran out of fibreglass half way through, so this will need redoing…

 

the difficulty is that I can only easily get to the top surface of the rail, with the flange way gap too narrow for the file (so only the fibreglass brush really does much on the side). While the other side of the rail is sealed in with the filler (potentially hiding more rust.)   As such I am fairly sure the rust will return in a year or two.   FD77A217-0FB5-4F39-A630-05EE25221E55.jpeg.2e831ec53fcbe9a1f621bf0ae3a63aaa.jpeg

 

It all needs a good clean up now, though I’m happy for the rust stains to remain in a few areas as it looks fairly prototypical.

 

once done I will need to reblend the painting on the weathered concrete slab as in numerous places I’ve worn through the surface when filing / sanding the rail.

 

finally for tonight, minor repairs to the fences are complete.  Only a small job but it’s one off the list.

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Hi

 

Regarding the rust problem........

 

I'm assuming that you are using nickel-silver rail......

I've had slight issues in the past with copper clad sleepers & nickel silver rail going GREEN if  acidic flux has not been cleaned off but never a rust colour.....( Copper oxide (Malachite ) is green..... ) But only on bare rail & not under filler or paint......I should but rarely wash homebuilt points/track etc & have not YET had a major issue...The flux I use is 9% Phosphoric acid but I have used others in the past ......

if using steel rail then I could understand the rust showing through as in your pictures seeming to follow the rail rather than going across the track though I would have thought if the flux were water soluble then it might follow the track but also follow the sleeper as well....

I'm curious as to the reason of your problem hence my post....

 

Hopefully you can sort it as I'm following your progress with interest....

 

Cheers Bill

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  • RMweb Gold

The layout was cobbled together with what rail I had available, always intended to be a budget project rather than diverting funds from Brent.  So it ended up with a mix of left over nickel silver and steel rail.  In particular all of the vee/k crossing assemblies and switch rails (all Ex Blackcombe) were steel.   So it’s with the latter. That I have had the issue, where I used it on copperclad sleepers.  The other half of ballasted track (glued construction) was fine.  
 

My guess is I used more flux (carrs green) when soldering to the copper strips than i did adding power feeds etc rot the other half.

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  • RMweb Gold

I managed a little more work on the rust this morning, slowly getting to the point that it is as good as it is going to get.  There is some pitting on the rail surface which I cant do much about, so more likely than not a substantial rebuild is going to be needed eventually.  The  issue is the need to eradicate the rust from the areas where it has gone below the rail surface without resulting in an uneven finish, dont get rid of all of it and the rust will return eventually (though the same is also true about any rust remaining on the rail sides.)   My worry is that naturally this is going to cause issues with power transfer to the wheels.  One potential solution for the time being would be applying graphite to the affected areas to fill in the gap and hopefully maintain conduction.

 

I have taken the first of the buildings inside for repairs over the next few evenings, however the next priority task is going to be sorting out the damaged wiring in order that I can give it a test run (after rewiring the broken point switch).

 

I have moved the first of the buildings inside, it makes sense to do some minor updates while its on the work bench having the damage repaired.  So if I can find some suitable plastic in the Evergreen box I will get some gutters added along with a few other extra details.  As well as reattaching the broken canopy and repairing some damaged paint.   While originally the 3 buildings were all glued in position, this time round I am going to use double sided tape as I want to be able to remove them when (if) I get round to rebuilding the layout.

 

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From memory,  we used a form of Cure Rust which  is a trade name for a word that I can no longer recall, but it doesn't usually leave a smooth enough surface to run model trains on.

 

 

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  • RMweb Gold

Slight change of plan, instead of fixing wiring I decided to start on the buildings.  
 

first up the dries, a minor repair to the roof on the left hand side (which took forever to get the plastic to stay bonded) and reattaching the middle canopy.

 

while it was on the bench I also added the gutters / down pipes and did some minor paint repairs

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The other two buildings have now been moved inside to be worked on tomorrow, when I have a day off with the plan of working on the layout. 
 

the slurry loader is glued in place and will need gutters etc added in situ 
 

naturally (as often seems to be the case) it looks like I have a sick child off school

tomorrow which will throw a spanner in the works (and certainly prevent me getting in the garage).  So completing the work on those two buildings (along with whatever can be done on the curved roof) will at least ensure progress.

 

 

with those jobs done, visually I just need to resolve the signal damage and the layout will at least look the part.  Then focus can move onto the running…

 

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  • RMweb Gold
Posted (edited)

Unfortunately the arrival of my next loco project has rather got in the way of the planned layout work, so despite having an empty house I’m still not getting much done.

 

Before the post arrived I did finish off the repairs to the other two buildings, so it’s just the slurry loader which still needs attention adding gutters.  These two are now awaiting a return to the layout once I run out of jobs to do on my new loco.

 

thanks to @Southwich  offering me a part finished model of 56049 (which has already had one end chopped off and replaced with the correct type) I couldn’t resist even if it is not overly useful for 1998 china clay.

 

It needs roof and end grills adding, new handrails, EWS cantrail grills, and a repair to a missing cantrail grill etch.  
i am in two minds when it comes to the bodyside grills, as while the Shawplan bits look better I am relatively happy with the standard part (as opposed to the roof grills for which the Hornby part is awful).

however unless I can find a replacement Hornby cantrail grill etch, I think I will be stuck replacing them with the Shawplan ones (and if I do the cantrail I will need to do the sides as well) 

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Edited by The Fatadder
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  • RMweb Gold

The next final building repair is now complete, and returned to the layout.  Though it does not want to stay in position!  I think I’d I do rebuild the layout this covered loading area may get replaced with a brass frame to get a lot more stiffness.

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I also have a temporary solution for the hole where the signal used to be, I am

going to cover it with a large buddleia  (a job for tomorrow).

 

this leaves fitting the fiddleyards, replacing the broken switch and testing as the main remaining jobs.  I also want to have a go at improving the joint between the concrete slab and the ballasted track.


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37065’s first appearance on the layout, still awaiting Mainline logos and weathering. There are quite a few photos of this interesting loco (with its mismatched ends) working on clay.

 

 

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