LNER 69 Loco

[bertiedog]

I was thinking of what is to hand in the workshop, I have .4 N/S that can be reduced in the lathe with papering, I don't like any steel on models if I can help it.

 

Of greater import is the rain strip or edge of the cab roof, which Farish have made without a defined edge unlike most photos on the net. I can add a brass edge from etched off cuts in a groove cut by file and superglue the brass on. But is it correct as the shots and drawings show all sorts of cab roofs. There are straps running across the width front and rear plus middle.

 

On the clack valves there is one on the far side as well as the side with the existing hole. Might have a go at the handles on the boxes as well whilst I have the small gauge wire around.

[bécasse]

 

 

Of greater import is the rain strip or edge of the cab roof, which Farish have made without a defined edge unlike most photos on the net. I can add a brass edge from etched off cuts in a groove cut by file and superglue the brass on. But is it correct as the shots and drawings show all sorts of cab roofs. There are straps running across the width front and rear plus middle.

 

 

Before doing anything to the cab roof, you need to decide which loco you are modelling and during which period.

 

In very broad terms there were two styles of cab roof, the original, which might be termed the flat roof - it wasn't actually flat of course but it was quite low and might be likened to the roof on most goods van (IIRC it was wooden) - and the curved roof, made of steel, and much akin to the roof shape of modern carriages, which was fitted as a replacement on many locos over the years but not, again IIRC, to any of those based in Scotland.

 

These two were very different and, to my mind, the roof of the "toy" doesn't look anything like either of them.

[bertiedog]

I have checked the net pictures and will leave the curved bow roof, but add edges in brass, fiited in grooves then filed down to correct edge. Not to bothered about period, might even paint it GER. The pump and clacks are ready and can be glued on, but there is still some stubborn paint to remove before it can be grit blasted with Bicarb, which is a gentle process and does not damage the Mazak. It can remove paint, but not in tight corners.

The gearbox is all stripped from the camera focus drive, the plastic gearbox cannot be used, it needs brass box made to take it all, and one that does not risk shorting the chassis out.

Stephen.

[2mmMark]

I think the roof is attempting to represent the low roof as on the preserved J69/1 No. 7087. A shim brass overlay with soldered-on ribs and rainstrip would be better and is something I've been intending to put on mine.

 

I don't know what paint GF used but it is certainly strong stuff - possibly 2-part epoxy.  The original "full-fat" Nitromors stripper would remove it but today's less aggressive safety-concious DIY paint strippers are beaten by it. From what I've heard, there are gel paint strippers to the original formula available as "trade" products.

 

Mark

[bertiedog]

Nitromors is a different formula now, most makes are the same, they are methylene chloride free, which I normally have in store to use for plastic glue, but run out at the moment. I may try brake fluid applied warm, this usually shifts most paint, as do the caustic oven cleaners, but these are becoming less common now.

 

I will leave the bands over the roof and just add the edging, the groove can be cut with a thinned ground down razor saw, the brass, which is spare etched kit surplus sprue, can be superglued in to the groove, than filed to shape.

 

I have the wire in brass for the handrails at .3mm mm, but but can be pull straightened by twisting and then reduced in size to .2mm by abrasive pads in the lathe. Only a couple of inches is required!

 

Sorted out the gears, 2 start worm then 3 stage spur, unknown pitch, but the casing is complex to duplicate the positions in the plastic original. This may take a few days to build, as it is very small. the final gear on the driven axle needs a bit of thought to make it work as the muff connector for the stub axle, as its diameter is quite small at 4mm. Unfortunately the hole is already to large for the stub axles, so will need a sleeve made and the gear drilled out, not easy in delrin plastic as it is soft but tough.

 

Stephen

[bertiedog]

Yes, the Nitromors is now free of it's original main component Dichloromethane (DCM, or methylene chloride) and Nitro methane, and therefore not Nitromors. Most available to the public is this useless type and was brought about by a ban in the EU, which was queried as no known cases of illness are recorded, just supposition that it can cause cancer. It must be used in well ventilated conditions and is still allowed in industry with ventilation.

I have no idea whether you could add DCM back into nitromors, but it is suggested on the net to work...........DCM and nitro are available on EBay. I would suggest a batch for the work is mixed and destroy any surplus by dilution, as Hydrochloric acid can be formed as the DCM deteriorates.

If chemicals faze you, buy the commercial stuff!

 

Stephen.

[2mmMark]

Nitromors is a different formula now, most makes are the same, they are methylene chloride free, which I normally have in store to use for plastic glue, but run out at the moment. I may try brake fluid applied warm, this usually shifts most paint, as do the caustic oven cleaners, but these are becoming less common now.

 

I will leave the bands over the roof and just add the edging, the groove can be cut with a thinned ground down razor saw, the brass, which is spare etched kit surplus sprue, can be superglued in to the groove, than filed to shape.

 

I have the wire in brass for the handrails at .3mm mm, but but can be pull straightened by twisting and then reduced in size to .2mm by abrasive pads in the lathe. Only a couple of inches is required!

 

Sorted out the gears, 2 start worm then 3 stage spur, unknown pitch, but the casing is complex to duplicate the positions in the plastic original. This may take a few days to build, as it is very small. the final gear on the driven axle needs a bit of thought to make it work as the muff connector for the stub axle, as its diameter is quite small at 4mm. Unfortunately the hole is already to large for the stub axles, so will need a sleeve made and the gear drilled out, not easy in delrin plastic as it is soft but tough.

 

Stephen

 

Looking forward to seeing the finished result hopefully on here. Always interesting to see alternative approaches in 2mm.

 

Mark

[MarkAustin]

I think the roof is attempting to represent the low roof as on the preserved J69/1 No. 7087. A shim brass overlay with soldered-on ribs and rainstrip would be better and is something I've been intending to put on mine.

 

I don't know what paint GF used but it is certainly strong stuff - possibly 2-part epoxy.  The original "full-fat" Nitromors stripper would remove it but today's less aggressive safety-concious DIY paint strippers are beaten by it. From what I've heard, there are gel paint strippers to the original formula available as "trade" products.

 

Mark

I've had success in getting the paint off GF diecast locos using caustic soda. You can usually get a tub of this in pound shops. Make up a strongish solution; drop the body in; leave overnight; and then scrub with an old toothbrush in soapy water. You sometimes need a second run to remove stubborn bits in corners, but it works quite well.

 

Mark A