S7 scratch building

[airnimal]

I must have missed this photo.

[John lewsey]

Lovely work Mike

Edited August 18, 2017 by John lewsey

[airnimal]

Thanks John, just a little more done this morning. I made the joining bar from a piece of brass 2mm X 1.5mm with the fixing bolts from a 14 BA nut and bolt. I had to ease the slots a little so the wagons could have a bit more movement.

[airnimal]

These wagons are of very simple design but there is still a lot of work in them. The angle brackets are cut from evergreen 6.4mm angle packet number 297. The D shackles are made from D links that form part of exactoscale screw couplings. They have to be bent to shape very careful or the will snap.

[wagonman]

These wagons are of very simple design but there is still a lot of work in them. The angle brackets are cut from evergreen 6.4mm angle packet number 297. The D shackles are made from D links that form part of exactoscale screw couplings. They have to be bent to shape very careful or the will snap.

 

 

You could try annealing the brass D-shackles before bending – not easy on something that small, mind...

[airnimal]

After a few days away in Scotland with my better half I have done a bit more work on this pair of wagons. The corner plates are going on with a small amount of detail on the ends as well. I leave them over long and just glue one side on and let it dry before bending around the end and cutting to size. These wagons are only small but they take nearly as long to do as any other wagon.

[airnimal]

O dear ! Just started to put the coach bolts on the lower body sides. Looked at the drawing in Vol 1 of L.N.W.R. wagons to space these out correctly and they didn't appear to correspond with my model. Check my dimensions .......?......?.........

Yes the bolster is about 8 inches to one end. I have been looking at both the drawing of both the single wagon and and the twin pair and they are not the same. I have made my pair with the bolsters bang in the middle.

O well. Another lesson learnt, never ever assume ! Another pair for the bin.

[Western Star]

Another pair for the bin.

Surely not?

 

One of the many advantages of working with plastikard is the ability to recover the situation by careful removal of the offending pieces... if you can remove the support for the bolster by either carving or sanding carefully then you can re-cut the plank lines.

 

Go on, recovery is good for the soul.

[airnimal]

Graham, I was going to scrap both wagons and start again. But on your suggestion I thought why not try to make amends. With a lot of effort and much swearing I manage to get the first one out and fill the hole. You can see how far out I was, one more to go.

Will have to see when they are painted if you can tell. The one at the top is the new position.

[Western Star]

... I thought why not try to make amends. With a lot of effort ... I managed to get the first one out and fill the hole.

Will have to see when they are painted if you can tell. 

If you do not like the result then maybe someone else might - just make sure that you choose a running number that could have been seen making a delivery to one of the furniture factories in High Wycombe circa 1910.

 

Whatever the result, you and your audience shall have learnt something from trying to sort the model.

 

regards, Graham

Edited August 24, 2017 by Western Star

[airnimal]

Graham, I did as you suggested and I did manage to remove the bolsters and relocate it one plank towards the end. I have put the rubbing plate on the end where the wagons join only to find that the joining bar will now be to short !

One step forwards and one step back.

[Western Star]

... I did manage to remove the bolsters and relocate it one plank towards the end. I have put the rubbing plate on the end where the wagons join only to find that the joining bar will now be to short !  One step forwards and one step back.

The rescue of the bolster position looks to have been successful.  I am not sure that I understand why moving the bolster has had an impact on the bar between the wagons...

 

I hope that you can go on to solve the current problem and that you find no more...  I have had a soft spot for timber trucks ever since Chris Basten did the Cambrian examples and then finding that there was a pair of single bolsters at 81E.

 

regards, graham

[airnimal]

The rubbing plate on each wagon is made from 15 thou plastic. Twice thickness = 30 thou, so the joining bar was not long enough. On the works drawing there is another plate top and bottom as well the one joining in the middle.

I am not sure if I am going to model these.

I have in my collection lots of Cambrain drawings if you need any.

[Western Star]

I have in my collection lots of Cambrain drawings if you need any.

Interesting, we shall discuss this offer at Telford - which day are you going?

[airnimal]

The saga continues ! I have found not only are the bolsters not in the middle of the wagon but the wheels are not central as well. This is what through me with the bolsters. I was going off where the coach bolts were in relation to W-irons. Having the two drawings of very similar wagons and different photos has led me up more than one blind ally. I have made the top plate but if I make the bottom plate as well, I will have to make longer screws. Hind sight is a wonderful thing.

I will be at Telford both days.

[Western Star]

I have made the top plate but if I make the bottom plate as well, I will have to make longer screws. Hind sight is a wonderful thing.

I have ticked "craftsman" because that is what I see.  In the case of the most recent post I rather feel that "supportive" is just as relevant so please take that thought as read.  At least you now know the lengths of bolts for the next example of the twins.

[N15class]

I think this is why they say a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. It's so annoying to find out vital info half way through a build. Great work so far.

[airnimal]

Thank you all for the kind comments, most gratifying. Now I have sorted where the wheelbase is located I can start to put all the bolts and nuts in the right place.

I suppose I should not tell the world that I will be away at Telford for the weekend for security reasons but as the rest of the family will still be here and I don't live in a footballers mansion, I will not worry my Rolls or Rolex will be stolen. If only......

Edited August 26, 2017 by airnimal

[airnimal]

Starting to look like a wagon now. The wheels are not the one I will be using.

[airnimal]

I am glad now I didn't scrap these wagons. They have turned out better than expected. Still plenty of details to add.

[Western Star]

How do you change the wheelsets?

 

I use Exactoscale underframes and that product allows the wheels to drop through the bottom of the axleguard - your axleguards appear to have trapped the axle.

[Compound2632]

I am glad now I didn't scrap these wagons. They have turned out better than expected. Still plenty of details to add.

 

I must push on with my 4 mm scale version - rather more impressionistic than your superb modelling. It's the asymmetry of the individual D13 wagons that appeals to me. The bolsters are not off-centre (they're on the centre-line of the wheelbase), it's just that the body is that of a dumb-buffered D12 wagon at one end and a 15' sprung buffered wagon (allowing for the difference in wheelbase) at the other. After much pouring over the drawing in LNWR Wagons, I distilled the dimensions down to the essentials for my model in the sketch towards the end of this post.

[airnimal]

Graham, the W-irons are screwed to the base of floor with 12 B.A bolts making it easy to change wheels and aid painting. If you look back at the first couple of pages all is explained.

Compound 2632, yes I can now see where I went wrong with the bolsters.

Got up early and made a pair of stanchions from 28 thou nickel sheet. Soldered two pieces together and cut them out with the fret saw.

[Compound2632]

Graham, the W-irons are screwed to the base of floor with 12 B.A bolts making it easy to change wheels and aid painting. If you look back at the first couple of pages all is explained.

Compound 2632, yes I can now see where I went wrong with the bolsters.

Got up early and made a pair of stanchions from 28 thou nickel sheet. Soldered two pieces together and cut them out with the fret saw.

 

Wow stanchions. How to do those in 4 mm scale has held me back from making the bolsters for my D12 and D13.

[airnimal]

Compound 2632, I cannot help you with 4mm scale. Mine were just a couple of bits of nickel soldered together and cut out with a fret saw, not always successful as can be seen. I did work in 4mm scale a very long time ago but I was rubbish at it. I have had more success since I changed to 7mm nearly 40 years ago. Perhaps you could ask someone who is doing some etching to add a couple of bits on the end of a sheet. The would be so small as not cost anything.