MarcD Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 It happens all the time in ship building. Sections of submarine hull out by 180 degrees. Water tight doors on the wrong bulkhead. One of the original Polaris subs had a 3degree set in its rudder as it was bent. Marc 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted March 20, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 20, 2021 (edited) 13 hours ago, Dave John said: if the rest of us that actually make stuff pulled our own legs every time we made a mistake most of us would would be legless by now. Well, turning to drink is one response to the problem, but hardly an ideal solution. Edited March 20, 2021 by Regularity 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam88 Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 (edited) There is a picture in Noel Coates and Martin Waters' Lancashire & Yorkshire Railway Album (1971) of a fish train where one of the vans has the external frames in V formation at one end and as an upside down V at the other. Edited March 20, 2021 by Adam88 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted March 20, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 20, 2021 A bit more progress has taken place today. The van is up on it's wheels and the correct shape V-irons found and applied. I did managed to find another vacuum formed roof which has been cut down to size but may need a little trimming near the end of the build. We have not been able to find a house that fits our needs ( her indoors needs ) in a location we would like. With it not being a large area there is not a lot on offer that we can afford. 16 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poggy1165 Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 On 18/03/2021 at 20:24, airnimal said: Well I have got back to where I was before I decided that the planks were not correct but this time I hope I have it right. The wrong one will hopefully become a line side tool shed along with the brake van. Thinking about the NSR wagons I have recently made, they are amongst my favourite in all the wagons I have. I find the livery very pleasing and the wagons very simple in design. Coupled with the area of the Potteries with there canals and bottle kilns in which these wagons would operate has it all for me. One problem I have I don't have a NSR engine to pull them. I did have a kit for a D class but I sold it because I didn't feel I could have make a good enough job of it. Loco building isn't for me although I have made plenty in the past I can never make them to a standard that pleases me. Perhaps if there was a really good kit of an early NSR loco I might be tempted to have another go but I don't think that is very likely as I don't think that there are many NSR modellers about to warrant anybody a kit manufacturer to go down this route. I will have to keep my eye out for a second hand loco that could be converted to S7 standards. Perhaps I could commission one from a good scratch builder, but who ? One option for a NSR loco is the Gladiator kit for the LNWR SDX. The NSR bought two or three of these babies and so it is quite correct to finish one in North Stafford livery. (It is a (very) long term project for me.) I did have a photo of one of these engines in NSR livery, but I am not sure where it was published or where it has gone. However, I'm absolutely sure it was published somewhere. Whether the NSR made any detailed changes to their SDXs or just repainted them I'm afraid I have no idea. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted March 21, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 21, 2021 Thanks Brian, I was aware of the LNWR SDX but I think it would be to big for my needs. The is a photograph in NSR locomotives by Ken Hopkins. According to the text they were delivered in NSR livery with a NSR chimney. I have put a bit more ironwork on including the crown plates. These have been made by my usual method of punching a hole with a paper punch and then cutting around with a pair of cutters on a turned mandrill. Cleaning up by hand has always been a bit hit and miss so I have made a tapered mandrill to lightly sand with a fine file in the mini drill. This was a lot quicker and the results were a lot sharper. 11 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted March 22, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 22, 2021 The wheelbase of this van is 9'6" and I am going to use 10' etched brakegear with a bit of manipulation It will be perfect. I will have to remove the bottom of the shoe to make it into a single hanging type of shoe. These are a single sided etch so I have double them up but it means there isn't any detail on the back. I don't think it's worth the effort to add another layer on the back where it won't be seen. 10 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted March 22, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 22, 2021 (edited) The brakegear has gone together well and fits the wheelbase with just the right amount of clearance between the wheels. Just the brake rack and handle to clean and fit and the rest of the body details. I am not sure where the brake handles come from but I will get them to fit. Edited March 22, 2021 by airnimal 7 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted March 22, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 22, 2021 I have used an Ambis brake rack that fitted the bill. I think it is a GWR one but they all look pretty much the same to me. One of the things I do is I solder a bit of scrap etch at the bottom of the fold to prevent the rack being squashed when handling any model. Then a couple of lace pins were were soldered in after the heads were reduced in the mini drill. When everything was bent to shape and placed on the van the position was noted and marked before removing back to the bench to be soldered up. Doing it this way makes the brakegear quite strong. I think there is nothing worse than squashed and flattened brake parts. That is the reason I never use plastic brakegear. 7 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Signalman Rich Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Mike, Thanks for the tip re making of crown plates. Re: your post of last Thursday on making/obtaining a suitable loco. You might like to consider the battery electric loco that used to reside at Oakamoor. There are some good broadside views in the various NSR books. The loco in glorious NSR livery is now in the NRM I believe. For you it would be just like making one of your lovely wagons but with a cab in the middle of the body. As an alternative starting point - as it is a similar loco - Jim McGeown 's Connoisseur Models have a very similar Midland Railway loco that might be worth exploring. His instructions for the MR loco, which are available to download, show some very simple ways of motorising using 4mm scale gears and motor on the 1/8" wagon axles as well as a chain drive for both axles. It might be worth considering? Best wishes and keep up the great work. Rich 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
wagonman Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 The only 7mm scale NSR loco kit I'm aware of is the TaffVale/Dragon kit for the M class 0-4-4T http://www.taffvale.wales/page1.php though I have not idea as to the quality of these kits. There's rather more available in 4mm... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coal Tank Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Didnt Chowbent do a small tank loco 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post airnimal Posted March 23, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted March 23, 2021 Rich, thanks for the suggestion about the battery electric loco. It would make a perfect loco size wise but it was built in 1917. This is a little late for my period, but I could of course implement rule one. Richard, the same applies to the M class of locos built in 1907. All a little bit to late. If I ever do get to building this mythical layout I wish to set it in about 1890 / 1900 period. John, yes they did a class D which would be my preferred choice along with a DX or an ST class. I did have the kit of a D class from Chowbent but I sold it a couple of years ago when I was struggling with building my chopper tank. I have spent several hours drilling holes for the Masterclub hexagonal bolts. I can only do so many before I have to have a break. 12 6 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post airnimal Posted March 23, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted March 23, 2021 One side has all the bolts applied and one end as well. The other end has been drilled but as yet the bolts haven't been glued in. Just one side to do with and the locking bar to make and fit. I have made the first one but it will need a bit of refinement to make look like the photographs. I think we are on the home straight now with the majority of the hardwork done. The roof is a bit rough and I will have to sand it down to make a better job of it. We have the grandsons tomorrow so very little model time. 12 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted March 25, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 25, 2021 Back to work after being a grandad yesterday. I have made a locking bar but putting it on the van I think i have made it from a wire that is too thick I will make another from thinner wire and compare. 9 2 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Dave Hunt Posted March 25, 2021 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 25, 2021 Mike, It's worth remembering that in 7mm scale an inch is only (in round terms) 0.6mm or 22 thou. I've often looked at a piece of wire I'm abouit to use and thought, "That's too thin," only to find when measuring it that it is the correct size or even too thick. Dave 5 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post airnimal Posted March 26, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted March 26, 2021 Dave, I have looked at the photographs and concluded that the first attempt using .7mm wire was too thick and I have exchanged it for .6mm which I think looks better. So this morning I have given the van several coats of paint. I first gave it a coat of grey primer before going over the body with the red oxide. I wish I had gone straight to the red primer first because it looks as there are too many coats of paint on it now and the detail around the bolts has lost a bit of definition. 8 12 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post airnimal Posted March 26, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted March 26, 2021 I have managed to scratch the new paint already trying to paint the roof. I have also noticed I have missed a chamfer of one of the long diagonal timbers. Perhaps I should have a bit more patience and let the paint dry for a longer period of time. I did think I could cut the chamfer now and touch up the paintwork later but I will leave it for the time being. On a better note I had a letter from the hospital this morning saying my cancer is stable and not getting any worse and I dont have to have any chemotherapy yet. 5 24 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post airnimal Posted March 26, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted March 26, 2021 I have cut a new chamfer on the diagonal frame that I had missed earlier. I masked it off and lightly sprayed it again with good results but there are still a couple of bits which will need a bit of attention. Now it is on its wheels I feel more confident that this van will join the other NSR wagons to form a small train. 15 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post airnimal Posted March 26, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted March 26, 2021 In the end I went for .6mm wire for the locking bar. It just needs a safety chain and locking pin to complete the door furniture. Buffers and axleboxes, springs and then the lettering to finish off. 18 6 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mol_PMB Posted March 26, 2021 Share Posted March 26, 2021 No surprise, this is looking excellent. Great work! 4 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Signalman Rich Posted March 27, 2021 Share Posted March 27, 2021 Mike, So glad you have good news re your cancer. News like that puts modelling matters into perspective. The van is looking really crisp and neat. Looking forward to seeing the axleguards and lettering completed. The NS wagons book is full of beautiful drawings that deserve to be modelled. I think I have 'need' of a ballast train for my little layout - a good opportunity to try batch production techniques. Thanks for the continuing inspiration. Best wishes Rich 1 3 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Popular Post airnimal Posted March 27, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Popular Post Share Posted March 27, 2021 Rich, I am afraid that the van has come to a halt. I don't have the necessary tranfers of the right size to complete it. And I don't think I am in the right frame of mind at present to attempt to hand letter it. So rather than make a mess of it I will leave it for a while until I can obtain the correct ones. The knott and the letters are only one plank high so I will have to check who does them and it may mean using 4mm scale ones if they are available. The NSR wagon book is very good but because it is a small company there is still a lot missing that we don't know about. As for the cancer, I dont see the point of worrying. I can't change anything so why worry ? 16 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium airnimal Posted March 29, 2021 Author RMweb Premium Share Posted March 29, 2021 Rather than start a new build I'd thought I would do a little more work on some unfinished wagons that have been hanging around for some time. So I have added all the bolts on the last of the 4 loco coal wagons and given it a coat of paint. I need to finish the underframes on 2 of them and find some axleboxes and springs as well as ordering numberplates. I am finding it stressful not be able to go to exhibitions and buying parts I need. Some people find it easy to order stuff on line, but I am not one of them. At least the is a little movement on the house move front because we have engaged a company to replace some windows in our present house that needed attention before we put it on the market. Now the question is do we put ours on the market before we find a new house or do we try and find a new house and then sell ours ? 15 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold chris p bacon Posted March 29, 2021 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 29, 2021 You need to sell yours first before looking for another. I build and sell houses, I don't take an offer seriously until the purchaser is in a position to proceed with a sale. I've seen so many that want the house I've just built, but because they're not in a position to proceed I don't fully accept they're offer. I tell them it will be acceptable but only when they can start the process. It's not nice but I could be hanging around waiting for months and occasionally people change their mind when they don't get the sort of money they want for theirs (too many overvalue) Moving house is very expensive, and even though there is no stamp duty below £400k(?) you'll still fork out £15-20,000 in removals, fees and associated costs of new furniture, carpet and fittings. 2 1 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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