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S7 scratch building


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Thanks to everyone for the thumbs up. 

I have been doing a bit of work on this van today with the basic body cut out. I'm  struggling to remember how I have made outside frame van's in the past. There is going to be a bit of guess work until it comes back to me. 

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The basic body has now been assembled but it will need adjusting and trimming.  It is not my best work by any means but I may be able to pull it back. I don't think it helps not being a GWR man with an unfamiliar wagon.  The roof has been cut to length but it will still need a proper fitting later. I have left it oversize until the body is complete.  I am not sure where the roof comes from but is a moulded one from one of our kit makers. 

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4 hours ago, airnimal said:

The basic body has now been assembled but it will need adjusting and trimming.  It is not my best work by any means but I may be able to pull it back. I don't think it helps not being a GWR man with an unfamiliar wagon.  The roof has been cut to length but it will still need a proper fitting later. I have left it oversize until the body is complete.  I am not sure where the roof comes from but is a moulded one from one of our kit makers. 

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Now that's an interesting wagon. Of the door less type I see. Were they for transporting the vacuums used in vacuum braking systems? :jester:

 

 

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5 hours ago, Malcolm 0-6-0 said:

Now that's an interesting wagon. Of the door less type I see. Were they for transporting the vacuums used in vacuum braking systems? :jester:

Or perhaps round tuits....?

 

Jim

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I'm  afraid it's not any of those, it's a van for carring tartan paint !  There aren't any doors to prevent thefts so when it arrives at its destination they have to remove the roof to get it out. 

 

  A little more progress this morning as well as helping the boss pack parcels to send to Australia.  This last job can be quite stressful for all sorts of reasons when the contents are precious gifts for the  new granddaughter and grandson.  If I got this wrong the consequences could be serious.

Anyway the end frames have gone on and a start has been made on the sides. The doors on the sides should be slightly proud of the side sheets with the frame made from thinner timbers.  I did this on the NSR van but I made the sides from different pieces which made that easier to do. But I have made the sides from one piece on this van.  Now do I cut out and replace the middle section and start again or do I ignore it ?  Also the roof previously shown is too thick so I have a couple more to try before I decide which one will look right. But all this will have to wait because I am going to see the cycling gang at the pub later. And more importantly the dreaded dec...................has been brought to my attention  again  !

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Before anyone says anything I have dropped another all mighty clanger again !

I have misread the top plank on the drawing for the top frame on the side. The side and ends don't line up as they should. Another for the scrap bin. 

When I mentioned it, my good lady said I could have spent the time dec............................!

Edited by airnimal
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After all the social events and birthday parties I will try and get back to doing some modelling.  

I keep looking at the Exactoscale etched parts that came my way. After the disaster of the GWR van I opened a packet of RCH 12" W-irons and started to make them up. Using the experience of the GWR ones I liked the soft suspension and the ability to remove the wheels with ease but not the fact that the W-irons are not soldered with much solder. There is a small amount to in the centre where the fold up bracket is but that is all. The fold up wheel carrier slides behind the 2 small prongs which fold up to locate the carrier. If you fold up the prongs at 90% the carrier will not slide as it should. These are not soldered which I think this is a weak point if you wish to remove the wheels frequently.  

Scratch building requires me to remove the wheels on a regular basis and if you keep bending the W-irons apart all the time the fold weakens and is not as good as it should be. 

So I have modified the prongs by soldering some bits in front of these prongs to strengthen them. These parts were made from the bits on the ends of the carriers that were meant to carry brake gear. 

I cut these off and folded them to the same profile as the prongs once I had a smooth running wheel set and solded them in.  The W-irons still don't have much solder on them but the small prongs are protected from been badly bent and ultimately failure. 

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Any fold that is subject to frequent bending/flexing needs  a solder filet to strengthen the joint.  Otherwise the metal suffers from work hardening - bending back and forth causing the metal to fracture and fail.  Most frequently used on those nails we cannot get out of a piece of wood.  Bend back and forth until the nail breaks at the bend point.

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Mike,

 

I like your intent to re-inforce the carrier retention tabs, some of my underframes have suffered from the loss of tabs - at this time I do not have a solution for post-failure parts.  When I have folded the tabs and achieved a smooth springing action then I re-inforce the tab folds by solder...  plenty of flux in the fold and then drop a solder ball into the flux.  Using a 2mm chisel bit in the soldering iron I heat the tab on the opposite side of the fold.

 

You are correct in what you say about the minimal contact area between the axleguard and the locating tab...  to date I have never had a failure of an axleguard/tab joint and that is over something like 15 years of using the Exactoscale 7mm underframes.

 

You have some of the Exactoscale brake gear etches...  the re-inforcements that you have fitted to your carrier tabs are located over the slots which provide reference / location for fitting the brake hangers.

 

regards, Graham

Edited by Western Star
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I agree that when folded over the W-irons I usually reinforce with solder but the gap must be clear for the carrier to slide. I did reinforce the ones on the GWR van but then spent time cleaning out the slot for the carrier to slide. So my solution to the folded tags was a lot easier to achieve with less cleaning up. 

 

So I have started on another dumb buffer lime wagon. This one is a 8 ton one for Joel Carrington lettered for Buxton Lime Works. But he was a resident of Oldham where he had a depot but I am not sure if he owned a quarry in Buxton or just obtained his lime there. This might not get very much further because of the dreaded  dec................. and another social event and then hospital for my biopsy on Wednesday. 

I have made the basic frame and and screwed the wheels sets in place. 

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On 27/09/2021 at 13:01, airnimal said:

So I have started on another dumb buffer lime wagon. This one is a 8 ton one for Joel Carrington lettered for Buxton Lime Works. But he was a resident of Oldham where he had a depot but I am not sure if he owned a quarry in Buxton or just obtained his lime there.

Given that Stephen has asked about how the load was carried / packed...  I think that one needs to understand what was being carried - did Joel buy limestone from the quarries and then crush/burn the mineral in his premises near Oldham or did he buy "lime" in a processed state from a lime works near to Buxton.  Limestone does not need generally to be sheeted as the rock is likely to be processed at destination, burnt limestone must be kept dry and so would be bagged and sheeted during transit (or as bags in a cottage roof van).

 

regards, Graham

Edited by Western Star
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40 minutes ago, Western Star said:

burnt limestone must be kept dry and so would be bagged and sheeted during transit (or as bags in a cottage roof van).

 

It's the bagging I'd like positive evidence for, given the limey condition one usually sees of wagons in lime traffic and the use of dedicated lime sheets, worn underneath a regular wagon sheet, at least as I understand it:

 

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[Embedded link to catalogue image of Midland Railway Study Centre Item 28784.]

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If they were using paper valve sacks (invented in 1898 and patented 1908) then these are renown for slight leakage at the valve*.   Prior to that I am unsure what you would use - woven hessian seems unlikely, sewn paper sacks might be a possibility.  However loading and unloading bulk lime would have been a very hazardous activity even in the days when safety considerations were much lower than today. 

 

*cement is currently sold in such sacks and the light grey interior of the boot area of my car is testimony to their leakage. 

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See here: http://buriton.org.uk/history/buriton-lime-works/

 

"From the ‘draw floor’, the burnt lime was loaded into a barrow and each barrow weighed before being loaded into open railway wagons waiting below.  The loaded wagons were then covered with tarpaulins to keep out rain and atmospheric moisture which would have slaked the lime.  A couple of trains per day would call at Buriton Sidings to take the lime away and to deliver the anthracite coke breeze.  The mainline engine would push wagons into ‘the gully’ (the lower part of the limeworks) although the engine itself could not go into the gully."

 

See also the Craven Lime works, scroll down to the photo of information board headed "The Hoffmann kiln": https://www.visitsettle.co.uk/craven-lime-works.html.

 

Both these clearly state the lime was loaded directly into the wagons, not bagged in any way.

 

Apologies to Mike for this digression.

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