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Can you not salvage the work by filling the existing scribe line with superfine Milliput and scribing a new line?

 

Worth a try I would have thought.

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Thanks Andy, i did try that with some success before I discovered another problem, I mis read the drawing. The top and the bottom of the doors are flush with the side planking and I took this to be beading. I was able to cut out the top of the doors and insert another piece flush with the sides. Putting the beading on the bottom of the sides was when I realised this did not extend over the doors at the bottom. I could drill out and file a slot and insert another piece but I don't think all that work would be worth it. Another one for the scrap pile. It's a good job I bought large sheets of plastic many years ago when I was earning money because all I have lost is time but gained more experience. 1 plus 1 minus.

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Many thanks Ian for your kind comments. That is such a complement coming from a multi award winning scratch builder.

Well you know what I think of your work (the jig for floor planking gave the game away...  more than ten years since you showed me that great idea).

 

regards, Graham

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Hi Graham

Yes still here beavering away on my wagons. I am trying to correct my mistakes with this van. I am not sure it is worth the effort or should I start again. I drilled a row of holes along the bottom of the doors and then used a small cutting disc in the mini drill before cleaning everthing up with needle files.

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 I drilled a row of holes along the bottom of the doors and then used a small cutting disc in the mini drill before cleaning everthing up with needle files.

Looks good to me, but then I'm used to working in a much smaller scale!

 

Jim

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I think that you should definitely "chuck it " ...... My way :))

 

Joking apart, as you said earlier, what's the fun in that. I'd persevere and see where it leads to. You may be satisfied with it but if not you've gained more experience through your excellent efforts.

 

ATB

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A little more progress on the L.N.W.R wagons. I have taken advantage of the fine weather to put some paint on. I have yet to find any suitable springs for the very early wagons which had 9 or 10 leaves. I will probably have to make a master and have them cast.

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A little more progress on the L.N.W.R wagons. I have taken advantage of the fine weather to put some paint on. I have yet to find any suitable springs for the very early wagons which had 9 or 10 leaves. I will probably have to make a master and have them cast.

 

 

The Broad Gauge Society do/did a 9-leaf wagon spring that might be suitable.

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Thanks Wagonman,

 

I have spent 2 days trying to modify A.B.S casting to Scale seven standards without success. The top hat bearings that the 7 mm people used are a lot longer than 4mm ones. In 7mm with the etch W-irons it means that the top hat bearings are a lot closer to the face of the axle box face. I have drilled through the face of 6 axle boxes before giving up. I then spent all day trying to draw a front face of a 8 ton axle box cover to have an etch made so I could make a pattern to have my own cast axle boxes made. It wasn't my best days work so I am going to have a couple of days out of the workshop and go for a ride on my bike.

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Painted the interior of a couple of the L.N.W.R wagons. I am not very happy how they came out.

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Painted the interior of a couple of the L.N.W.R wagons. I am not very happy how they came out.

Um...  please explain what there is "not to like" about the photos.

 

regards, Graham

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Um...  please explain what there is "not to like" about the photos.

 

regards, Graham

 

Yep, looks like worn, bleached timber to me!

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Graham, thanks for the vote of confidence about my work but does it please me.

Well when I left school at 15 my last form master wrote in large letters on the bottom of last school report

 

" Michael is satisfied with less than the best "

 

This has stuck with me for the past 51 years and runs through me like lettering in Blackpool rock.

I would like to build loco's like Tony Reynalds.

I would like paint like AlanBrackenborough.

I would like to weather stock like Martyn Welch.

I would like to build layouts like Gordon Gravett.

 

But I can't do any of the above.

But I am sure going to give my best shot.

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I would like to build loco's like Tony Reynalds.

I would like paint like AlanBrackenborough.

I would like to weather stock like Martyn Welch.

I would like to build layouts like Gordon Gravett.

So would I - to which I add "I want to build wagons like Mike Osborne".  OK?

 

BTW - I can build track.

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Many thanks for the kind comments. I will carry on then, but there is a long way to go yet. First coat of red oxide.

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A couple of hours with a fine paint brush. The black paint is very thin and will need another coat or two. I have lost a bolt head over one of the axles. When my son-in-law does me the art work for the owners plates and a lot of weathering this may not turn out to bad.

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.....my last form master wrote in large letters on the bottom of last school report

 

" Michael is satisfied with less than the best ".....

 

Less is more?

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I do like the top link of the coupling...  and the finesse of the side door fittings.

 

On the prototype, how are the corner bands fixed to the sheeting?

 

Whose axleguards are you using on this model?

 

regards, Graham

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Thank guys for the interest. The corner plates which are half round at the top look like they are fixed with counter sunk screws or bolts. The photo that I am working from is not to clear but there are a couple of marks at each end which could be fixing of some sort.

The top link of the couplings are from C & L and are G.W.R. D links, the are squeezed in at the top. They are also used on the bolsters on the timber wagons. But they take a little more care to shape them and I have broken a few before I got them right. On the private owner wagon I will use Slaters Midland axle boxes with the lettering removed.

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Axleboxes?

 

I was asking about the sprung axleguards...  or are you saying that you are using the Slater's sprung axleguards / axleboxes for MR wagons?

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....The black paint is very thin and will need another coat or two. ......

On the recommendation of a fellow 2mm modeller who is also an excellent artist, I never use black, instead a very dark grey.  It shows up the detail better and, unless you are making models purely as ex-works display items, is more realistic for a wagon in service.

 

Jim

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Graham, yes the W-irons are Slaters MIdland. They are the nearest to ones available to the drawings I am working to.

Jim I did nearly use dark grey to do the metal work, and I may go over the parts already done. But they will be weathered after they are finished.

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Sir Douglas, the end door iron work is taken from a photo that I obtained over 30 years ago from Wigan record office. I am trying to model wagons that ran in the 1890's so I have had to do a bit of research which I have being doing for a fair few years. It is one of pleasures of our hobby.

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