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S7 scratch building


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John, when I let Adrian Swain have the pattern for the Dia 32 van the deal was that he could have the pattern in exchange for castings from his range. Unfortunately I then had my big accident when I was run down by a car. This left me with no interest in railways or anything else for about 3 years. Since then I have not had contact with Adrain. I am not sure wether I still own the pattern or Adrain. I don't want to bother Adrain about this as I believe he has been very ill. But the pattern will be still be about probably with C.M.A at Birmingham. The buffer bodies are available I believe from J.P.L. I could have some more w-irons etched if necessary, and I am having the axle boxes and springs produced to go with my other L.N.W.R wagons.

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Thanks for that ,I remember now from our conversation at Telford (?) a while back.The vans are fortunately not too difficult to scratchbuild ,I did some for Alexandra Yard back in the days when you could get a half decent axlebox casting from CCW.....trouble is I'm getting a bit lazy now ☺

 

John

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John, these Dia 32 vans were very popular when I did a batch all those years ago. I still get asked at exhibitions when I am going to do more. One went for £80 on E bay last year. I don't really want to become a dealer. The kits I made in the past were just a way of getting a few wagons of the same type without scratch building the same wagon six times.

Just painted the old leather buffers on this half dumb, half sprung LN.W.R. wagon.

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John, you have done a brilliant job on your wagons. I must get around to doing one of my vans in the early two tone grey.

I keep looking at the wagons on the Parliamentary Trains web site. Will have to see them at Telford in a couple of weeks time.

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I know I should not start something else with so many thinks half finished but I have decided to make a pair of L.N.W.R Dia 13 dumb buffer wagons. The solebars were made by glueing various thickness of Evergreen strip together to make up the required thickness. They will be about 5 thou undersize. At one time this would have bothered me but now I can live with it. Does this means my standards are slipping or am I getting old.

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Edited by airnimal
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I know I should not start something else with so many thinks half finished but I have decided to make a pair of L.N.W.R Dia 13 dumb buffer wagons. The solebars were made by glueing various thickness of Evergreen strip together to make up the required thickness. They will be about 5 thou undersize. At one time this would have bothered me but now I can live with it. Does this means my standards are slipping or am I getting old.

Once the plastic solebars get a coat of paint they will be nearer to exact size!

 

Ian

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Thank you Ian,

Just put the iron plate on the solebars from 10 thou strip. It's 3/8 inch on the real wagon which works out at 2.87 thou. So even if I used 5 thou it would nearly double thickness, so I am making big compromises with this build.

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Just put the iron plate on the solebars from 10 thou strip. It's 3/8 inch on the real wagon which works out at 2.87 thou..

Mike, I am not sure what scale you have used for this calculation... by my reckoning 0.375" prototype is just about 8 thou in 1:43.5 scale.

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........ So even if I used 5 thou it would nearly double thickness, so I am making big compromises with this build.

Are you afraid of someone coming along with a micrometer and criticising you?

 

Read my signature for my attitude to this sort of thing! :whistle:

 

Jim

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Graham, you are right about the size. I was using the conversion chart published in the scaleseven news many years ago. I had mine cut out and lamented to use on my workbench and the writing has got a bit blurred over the years. Looking at a better copy I can see it comes out at 8.61 and not as 2. 87 as I first quoted. I feel a bit better for that.

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I feel a bit better for that.

Good.

 

What is the significance of a yellow colour to one of the solebar layers?

 

With so much inspiration in this topic...  what are you going to bring to show at Telford?

 

regards, Graham

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Graham, on the works drawing the solebars have an extra piece of wood to make the dumb buffers but it appears to be a bit thicker than the solebars. So I used the same size as the solebars with a piece of 20 thou coloured plastic to make up this difference. Using coloured plastic makes it more easy to see and get the join flush.

 

What would you like me to bring to Telford ?

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I am having a good morning. The joining timbers were made from a 250 X 250 thou piece of evergreen. I drill the central hole before squaring it off with a small needle file. It was then marked out and sanded to shape on a belt sanded, cleaning up with fine wet and dry paper before marking the position and glueing in place.

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Graham, you just wipe down the outside of the timber with a small amount of Mek-Pak and take the jig off more or yes straight away checking that it has not moved. Once dry the second side is put back and the second side glued on. Speed is the essence.

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